bigaadams

It might be to your advantage to contact these folks, they sell rod style window lift kits and univerasal electic wipers for retrofit into your vehicle.. Specialty Power Windows, Forsyth, GA.

see what Lucas has to offer.. http://www.lucasclassictires.com/biasprices031611r2.htm

depends on storage and humidity...the moisture is the key element to rust.....I have a panel that has been sandblasted 5 years on one side only and not the back..still daisy fresh but admit it is stored in a good dry shelter...if you use the good metal prep solution that etches and also has a protective film..you shol dnot have to sweat immediate coat..if however you do not use this method..I suggest you paint real quick with a media deisgned to neutralize as you paint...

my two cents here and as I just did a bit of sandblasting this weekend I will relate my experience. First off, commercial sandblasting usually is done at high pressure and high sand flow thus the results are good removal of paint, rust and good metal..highly prone to warping due to the heat at this flow and pressure. HOWEVER not all sandblasting is damaging. I currently do my blasting at home in a cost effective less messy manner. IT is also might I add cost effective to set up originally. The 40 or 100 lbs pressure pot currently selling at some restorer supply houses or Harbor Freight is more than adequate for the at home DIYer. I do not recommend them for commercial enterprises. Anyway set this up with a back board of wood, less bounce and a large tarp to collect the grit for reuse..average recyle is three times and still cut good. Silica sand leaves no more residue than anyother media and most of the dust that fall back is the actual material being removed from the substrate. I use .030 grit that is locally purchased from my sandblast supplier at approx 3.25 a bag of 50 lb grit. I set my pot up to be pressureized at 50lbs of air pressure and flow I control at the base of the pot and not at the nozzle. If you shut off the flow of sand at the nozzle the sand will continue to accumulate in the hose and you have a great loss of media anytime you wish to restart. Cutting it off at the tank will allow the air to flow and clear the hose completely...then if you wish to shut the valve ok...but open it prior to opening the sand flow..you will thank me later. I blasted the front and rear gravel panels on my Plymouth Suburban in short time and reclaimed over 50% of my sand so the cost was less than 3.25 cents. Though you have sandblasted the metal and it does look clean..do not trust you eyes to this as being ready...I highly recommend that you next do a complete acid wash of the blasted surface with phosphoric acid..once it has been able to neutralize microscopic rust in the pits you can now neuatralize this with a water bath..air dry..now you will likely see a bit of flash rust discoloration, no biggy use a cloth damp with the acid to just quickly erase this flash rust..let this panel dry real well..then just prior to your priming, go over the panel with a 3M pad, wipe with solvent and apply your primer. This entire process is not that labor intensive and will be the best bang for the buck overall to my findings.

do a reply, to upload from your own computer, click on GO ADVANCED..click on brouse..this will allow you to go to the folder your picture resides in on your computer...go to the actual photo you want, double click will auto select and place in slected box...click on next open brouse box if you want to add another..when you have selected the pictures you want, hit upload (lower right)...they will appear in current attachement box below. close this management box..hit submit reply...

burgular's choice of entry device is a crowbar..chances are if they knew how to use a key cutter they would be gainfully employed...E-bay rules are often a joke.. IF you could post a picture I feel certain interested parties are on this site...

could even be a back fitted P18..just looked like a 3

this head is set up for the electrical sender...not a mechanical guage. The mechanical guage will require you drill and tap the head for the proper use of the adapter as required for installing the thermo-bulb. Reason for the adapter is that the bulb flange is sealed against the adapter as you thighten the jamb/gland nut.. the original fittings on your 230 head can be re-used for your retrofit..the adapter is NPT..the jamb nut is NPS as best I can determine

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE............................................... Mr. Trevor Dunmore of the RAC sent me a reply to my inquiry as forwarded to him from Genevieve M. and while not the entire message I quote in part concerning the badge itself... V516225 is an example of an RAC Associate (or 'Get You Home' - as it used to be known) badge produced between 1946-54, built by the 'Birmingham Metal Company' of fairly cheap materials as a result of the scarcity of materials (such as enamel) after the war. It has a blue anodised aluminium backing plate and chrome surround with a Georgian crown (George VI). The design of Associate badges has changed several times over the decades, often quite radically; in this case the diamond-shaped design of this badge changed to an Elizabethan badge of circular shape and modern design in 1954. and now we know...the rest of the story...many thanks "B" Packard32 for your assistance.. Tim

thanks for the information, have dispatched a message to the above listed person..will wait and see the outcome...appreciate your every effort to assist... Tim

Was curious about the issue date of this grille badge...one source says this style was used 194? through 1954, an Aussie site says this style was 1950 intro and used through 2000 and yet another source said that the heavy metal badges like I have here was dropped in favor of plastic in the 70's..the badge is authentic, issue number is Vxxxxxx..very heavy metal beautiful chrome.. I could find info on the AA badges and their issue dates but not the RAC.. Anyway..somebody here in the know..got a clue..point me in the right direction (as in there's the door see yourself out..)

you can try this place... However I suggest you ask up front if these are intended to be retained by the original clips or not..as they are sold by sopeing size..odds are this is for the rims that utilize the clip...verify by measuring the opening of an original.. Baby Moons - Baby Moon Hub Caps Solid Chrome Hubcaps

I have zero need for the unit but here is what I found...pass the savings to the next man that quotes my entry... Search Result For "2265186" Part # Application Description 2265186 P, D 62 EX 880 A/T G’SHIFT HSNG & SLIDES ASSY

nice use of the edit button..thanks for correcting your post..

how much credit toward purchase does the man get for proper identification?

no Mopar V8 continued without change from the 50 through the 90's...the longest running V8 is the small block and it was a major change for the 67 production year to that of the recently introduced LA design of 1964..these engines have evolved a bit over the years themselves in the manner of engine mount as they are cast in the block..the introduction of them in Magnum form also made a few minor changes..

IF you are looking for a 318 with OD..the cars never got that set up, only the truck...(88 and up) be sure to get one coded RH for rear wheel drive, hydraulic shift so as not to have to get into wiring the electronic controller in, with the early units you have just the OD lock switch to mount........to keep the RPM's at cruise on the 5th Aves..the 2.32 rear ratio was Chrysler's answer..that was why these cars felt a bit anemic on take off.. the 360 does not share the crank..also if you chose a 360 and automatic..bear in mind that it is externally balanced and will not interchage dampers or torque converter with the other small block...(you can add weight to balnce the other 318 converters with the aftermarket Mopar kit) very early 273 heads will not interchange with later 273's and 318 due to the angle the manifolds bolts are drilled... even withthe LA's physically the same dimension, unless you just happen to have the 273 on hand..I would not go out of my way looking for one..unless it is the formula S version that was the HP version at 270 HP... and as the 350 engine..only advantage you have there is the short water pump..that is why it is such a popular swap..fewer needs to modify fire wall and or relocated radiators..it cost more money to build a 350 to match the HP and life span of the similar built 360..Summit Racing proved the superiority of the Mopar over the Chevy and Ford years ago..the poor valve train of the Chevy is the main cost in the upgrade..

The later 54 Plymouths got the 230 engine from the factory and the engine can be identified by a star stamped on the block ahead of the serial number..I remember reading one article that if memory serves me correct, that while the bell housing bolt pattern may the same.. there was an offset issue..any upgrade here is going to be a bit involved..

I got a new Trico motor here in a lot of stuff I bought...though I have searched high and low I have had no luck identifying its application..such a chart may not exist..however I continue to search. The motor carries a part number of CSM 10-35 (9-28-1)..is cable operated switch with a 3.5 inch center to center wiper arm accuating bar.. thanks..

These are NOS units, box has been opened..the part number on the GM box is 982060 and has the packaged hardware, retainer clips, wiring harness and instruction sheet within. I have seen these listed for a ridiculous high price in my opinion and thus offering them here for a more reasonable/sensible price of 50.00 plus shipping. Box shows a bit of wear and tear from sitting in an outdoor shed. Please respond through e-mail please...bigaadams@yahoo.com

most folks that I know use the following for the fluid drive couplers... "Universal Tractor Hydraulic Fluid ISO 32"

Thanks for the offer...cannot go that low..winter special before the new swap meet season starts in the spring..will sell for 60.00 plus the shipping. SOLD

I am sorry but there is a problem with my account profile that I am not able to fix myself....no PM functions working...I am not getting notifications of responses to my listing..I am sorry but I am late in answering...please all future inquiries send an e-mail direct to bigaadams at yahoo dot com again, I apologize for the long delay in answering....

Looking for a set of the D19 front fender mounted trun signal assemblies..these were stammped ETTE thanks

thanks everyone..guess the re-body and steel wheels threw me for a loop...