Ovalrace25

Anyone making the SPARK and CHOKE knobs? I checked a couple sources but no luck so far. Also, Who has the clamp-on type side mount mirror brackets for the disc wheels?

I Just brought home a 27 Pierce Arrow model 36. The Car had been in storage MANY years. Wondering if it is known to the Pierce Arrow Society? Very good condition, but did at one time sit outside for a time... Just long enough to get water damage inside..... Wood is still very good, so with luck I will not have too much wood to replace. > </O:p> Looks like part of the mascot is missing. One battery box cover, Still have not found one headlight ring and lens. <O:p></O:p> <O:p> </O:p> Any helpful information would be appreciated. <O:p></O:p> Thanks! Rod

A couple years back I met a guy that told me he was one of the original suppliers of tops to GM. Had all the patterns for 50's and 60's cars... I bought a few tops from him... Nice stuff... Now I cant find his contact info. I want to get several more tops and would like to get them from him.. Any ideas? Canvas tops in colors. Dark Blue, Black, Red. Yes, this was a wholesale supplier..

Is the trunk lid on a 69 Mustang convertible the same as the 69 coupe? I do not have either car here to measure and have looked at a few websites, but no luck.. Anyone???? email me at funcars4us@hotmail.com Thanks!

I am trying to keep it original. I have been to SOME of the military websites.. I have been getting much more help from the AACA forums. Not sure but maybe some of the military guys dont want anyone to know what they got! Ha! I have also been trying to get some parts from one of the dealers... Sent an email order, and have no reply from then either. This is the second WC53 I have found.. This one is so darn good, it gets to be first.. LATER I will still try to get the other one together.

I am in northern California and have a 35 Chevy one ton panel. Bad wood, good sheet metal. Not running. 2000. Also have a transport guy that makes runs up and down the coast. Last registered in 1956. Still has most original paint on it.

Yes, I agree. The rear seats were probably tube frame like a school bus. I HOPE someone that has one of these sees my post on one of the forums. I would like to see some photos of original seats.. Front, rear, whatever.

Just trying this here to see if I can get some help.. I have a 42 Dodge WC53. This is the Suburban type of body with two roll down windows one each side plus the door windows. I need to find correct original seats for this one. I have NO seats at all. No pictures of what they look like and nothing to go on... Anyone???? Thanks! Rod

Does anyone know if the folding top linkage arms from a series 62 can be made to work on an Eldorado top? These are the chrome plated flat linkage pieces. Seems the originals never came back from the chrome shop or were lost along the way... Trying to find several missing items for this 53 Eldo project is not an easy thing to do. Also need the driver side wing window pieces, top boot latch and more.. Can anyone help? email funcars4us@hotmail.com Rod Dahlgren clc #19496

Thank You Very Much To Brian... He had the bumper for the Lincoln. This will complete the car. It will be really great to show off the finished Brunn Phaeton soon.

I have a 53 Willy Aero. Clips I used are off the shelf items at the body shop/paint supply store. I used the metal universal type with the spring wire and threaded stud. At each end I used end clips for 55 Chevy trim.

Well, I thought I woud see messages show up on my email if there was some help out there.. Guess I need to check the forum more often.. I misssed a bumper because I did not check back... There was one reply posted and I did not see it soon enough... Sure would like some help on this.. Please email me at funcars4us@hotmail.com

Me again.. Still looking for the rear bumpers for a 25 Lincoln. Brunn Body Phaeton is the car... Totaly restored, but NO rear bumper... I dont want to buy a complete car, just need a rear bumper... I suppose if I could get a right or left, that would give me something to copy to build from.. At this point I am willing to try anything.. How about one I can BORROW to use as a pattern? Yes, Most of the Lincoln guys out here know I am looking for a bumper.. Seems I need to reach out farther from home to find this. Thanks! Rod

I will be putting it back together in the next couple weeks so I can get a better idea what I have here. I dont want to describe the car wrong... Best for me to have correct answers for you. Thanks! Rod email funcars4us@hotmail.com

I have the 36" radiator. The other model radiator is 37.5" So I do have the correct radiator for the 640 series. The body had the original correct body to frame spacers part number 120490 and 120366 with the cork liner part 117785. <O:p</O:pWith these parts in place, the body is about 3/16 off the top of the running board apron. Since the apron bolts to the frame, front and rear fenders and running board, that seems to be close to a "fixed" position with very small room for adjustment. Then if you consider that the rear fenders bolt to the running board, apron AND body, the body can not be shimmed up more than fractions of an inch. Next, consider the cowl and hood need to have a reasonable GAP between the frame ledge bonnet part number 158538 and bottom of hood. IF I were to shim the body UP to eliminate the problem of the radiator too high, then the gap at the bottom of hood is far to large.. It becomes more than a 1 inch open space. I can suggest that if I were to MODIFY the front cross member by Lowering it just a little over ONE INCH, all this will be solved.... Here are a couple photos of the car with what I believe to be proper height off the frame. I do not believe the body should ever be shimmed higher than this amount. At this point, the hood bottom has proper gap to the frame ledge bonnet. But the radiator just can not be mounted at all... If so, nothing has proper fit..<O:p</O:p

Are any of the 29 model 640 owners near the San Francisco Bay area? I would like to take some measurements of your car. Thanks, Rod Dahlgren 7072265859 funcars4us@hotmail.com

Yep, Been there done that.. Out here in Kalifornia we are not supposed to be using real paint.. So it is true, the metallic’s are way off. When I go to a GOOD car show and see more than one restored car that happens to be of the same original color code as another sitting next to it and they are NOT the same color it bugs me that so much guessing is being done on our cars. Is there not SOMEONE at PPG, DuPont and others that has some time to figure this stuff out?

OK, Let me so if this photo will download... Here goes...

I have calls into a couple guys with 29 and 30 Packards. Will also give calls to some other guys around the country.. I have looked at a few restored cars and saw ONE that had some one inch shims under the body. These were VERY noticeable because the running board apron does not cover the area between the bottom of body and the frame. If I were to do the same with THIS car as I saw on that car, the hood would fit GREAT... But that big gap along the entire length of the car, well----not good. Best to just stop and think, then ask for help... What A Concept!

Not much to take photos of at this point. Hood is off, radiator is now off. I could use some measurements of other cars radiator height... Maybe the overall lenght of the radiator shell and the shutters?

I have one-- Yes, really! I needs TOTAL RESTORATION.. It is partially apart. Has MANY replacement body panels gathered up and a coupe parts car to go along with it. Not running, but will roll and steer just fine.<O:p</O:p <O:p</O:p In the next few weeks, I will be bolting it back together just to get a better idea how and what to tell you I think it will take to restore the car. <O:p</O:pIt was a project that was started and the owner was a little overwhelmed when he realized he was not up to doing it the right way. One of my customers bought the project but then found a Cadillac Eldorado he wanted even more than the Skylark. So back on the for sale block it goes. <O:p</O:p Price, I think we can get him to agree on somewhere around 40,000

Seems like every time I try to educate myslef on how to post pictures, I get frustrated and go back out in the shop to work on something I know how to do..

Engine was made under license by DeDion-Buton. Poppet style atmospheric valve. Single Speed Belt Drive... English Type 2-slide Carb. Any Ideas???? Thanks! Rod

This is a "one-owner" 72 Cutlass S with 442 trim option. Purchased new in the Northern Ca. Bay Area and stayed in the garage of the same city it was purchased in until now. Many original purchase docs come with the car. The daughter of the original owner told me her Dad bought it for his "retirement gift to himself".. She could not recall that anyone had ever been in the back seat. The interior looks like new, including the rear package tray, NO sun damage or fading inside the car at all. She said the car NEVER was left outside overnight and NOT used as a daily driver. The car has 35,000 miles on the odometer. It is dark green with white vinyl top and green interior. The A/C works great. it drives like a new car. Inside his garage there was a workbench with cabinet doors on the bottom.. You can see where these cabinet doors did some paint damage all along the driver side. The right side of the car was where his wife had her washing machine and her work sape, so it also has dings and paint chips. After he passed away back in the 80's, she drove the car just enough to keep it "excersized" until her daughter saw that Mom had clipped the right front fender... So that ended the use of the 442. But the daughter would run the car around the block every couple months. So-- This car has some exterior cosmetic problems but is a real nice car. 12,500

OK, I think this one will start a debate. I have a 3-wheel motorcycle with Peugeot name plates. It has the wicker seat up front ahead of the handlebars. Fenders are patent leather, leather belt drive. V-twin. What is it?