tbirdman

I suppose they are to add sections and send it to you as they complete it I was told.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">PI sells a judging guide that covers the interiors model by model. It may be worth the $20 (or so) to have as a reference. </div></div> I have it and it only covers the engine room for now.

I'm going to be detailing my 32 903 coupe roadster interior this winter and I'm trying to determine what is correct. Pictures I have seen vary so I'm not clear on a few things and want to make sure I do this only once and correct. So if anyone has some knowledge in this area what is correct, I appreciate the help. Steering wheel: gloss black or brown Steering column: gloss black or chrome Steering column bracket: gloss black Park brake lower handle: gloss black Upper park brake handle: chrome cowl vent handle: chrome ball switch on steering wheel for lights: silver or chrome ball switch on steering wheel for idle: silver or red or chrome brake, clutch pedal arms: ? ride control knob: chrome windshield wiper bodies:chrome door trim and dash: wood grained

You think people who had cars themselves in a show would know better but... This Saturday a lady is standing at the rear cormer of my car. She had a dog on leash that is going under my car. The leash has a metal part on the end where the dog is. I asked her very nicely to keep the dog away from the cars. She insisted that her dog wasn't near the car. She then tells me she and her husband have a car in the show and she knows how to act around cars. I try to explain to her about the metal piece on the ned of a leash that could scratch the car...she then tells me to shut up. Don't know how, but I did restrain myself from telling her what I thought of her heritage. Later on a kid is towing a wagon with a gift basket that they are raffling. I ask him to be careful around the car. He then makes some playful motion and pretend he will run the wagon into the car. He then tells me he's with the lady that I had a spat with. Of course later that day, a older gentleman rides his bike between my car another car. This is a very nice car show which is getting it's share of very nice vehicles. I'm going to suggest to them that they need to ban dogs, bikes, wagons etc from the show field. Why car show organizers don't do this, I have no idea.

I was having trouble with my 32 Packard 903. It started by every so often missing very slightly. It became more frequent but at times I could drive 10 miles or more and it would run perfect. The good thing is that it became more frequent. I gave up and gave it to a local shop. Turns out it was the points...I was looking at a fuel problem so I was way off. The shop actually converted the distribuor to a single point setup which will use modern points. Car seems to run very well with this setup and you may want to consider it if you want to get away from using the dual point set up. In July I took it to the Forest Grove Concours. I won my class which I know is highly dependent on who else enters <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> Also I received an award from the local Packard club. It was fun to roll across the stage just in front of the best of show cars including a 1936 Mercedes Benz 540 K and a leather covered body 1933 Duesenberg SJ. Anyway, I'm having a ball with the car expecially when I show up at hot rod cruise ins. You wouldn't believe how often I get asked if it's a Duesenberg. So I do appreciate those who gave me advice when I was looking. We have another 2 months here in Oregon before the rains start and I start the winter projects which I have planned in my head on the Packard to improve it.

Just happen to be talking about this today at the packard meeting for my 32 Packard. One of the guys who has restored a lot of cars mentioned YnZ's Yesterdays Parts . He said he's used about 32 of their wire harnesses. Looks like a 31 is about $500. Any feedback on this company?

No they do not require a tube unless your wire wheels leak <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> I use radial tubes. Yes they are not wide whitewalls, but do look appropiate for a 64 Thunderbird.

I would answer unfortunately my car is at a shop...

I've used them on my 64 T-Bird. Unfortunately the size/style I like have been discontinued but I have a source of about 100 of them. The only problem I've had is they had some raised lettering inside the tire. This rubbed the tube and caused them to fail. Grinding away the raised embossing solved that problem. Other than that, I'm happy with them and haven't had a tire failure.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">DISASTERS TEND TO HAPPEN IN THREES 8-10-2006 I carelessly damaged my Mark II as I pulled it out of the garage to go to a Press Preview of the Willistead Classic. It's parked on a four post lift, in the down position during the summer as I park the Porsche on top for winter storage. I pulled too far over and took off the Mark II emblem and left a very nasty set of gouges in the paint with the lift's support cable. I went to the Press Preview anyway. </div></div> About a year ago I did something like you did with your Mark II. I backed off my 4 post lift and scrapped the garage door opening. I didn't notice it until I got to the car cruise where someone else discovered this white stripe on the quarter panel. At first I couldn't figure out where it came from. I was looking for a white car in the parking lot! But thanks to a good wax job and luck, I removed the stripe with gental ise of metal polish. Turns out I had hit the garage door opening just barely enough to transfer paint from the garage to the Bird. Also the wood was soft so there was the slightest of indentation on the wood with a trace of red paint. Good luck on your repairs.

With my 32 903, I never touch 1st gear except for once when I was stopped on a very steep hill. I have decided to keep the 4 speed instead of swapping it out for a 3. One of the reason is if I ever decide to put high speed gears in the rear. I don't plan to as the car drives fine at 55. The 4 speed I know was used on the 32 but discontinued halfway through the model years for a 3 speed.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> A show in New Orleans, nice Cadillac, I happen to walk by, a guy is hitting the fender with his wedding ring, saying "they sure don't make paint like this anymore". I stopped him. My '38 Packard, went to a nice local show. Went for a walk, came back, passenger side door had been keyed. I was (somewhat unhappy) off. </div></div> With my 32 Packard I've caught a few people rapping the fenders to see if their real. Then I had other guys testing the shocks by trying to bounce the car up and down with his hand on the rumble seat step. Then he denies even touching the car when I asked him not to. He denies that he touched the car. His friend then backs me up and said he was touching the car. What idiots. I do stay close by if possible.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Glad you found the problem and then came back and reported the solution - Thanks! </div></div> I hope by posting the solution, I'll help somebody else find the solution cheaper and faster, but thanks to those who tried to help. All advice is appreciated. </div></div> Happy to report, just got back from a 1500 mile trip in the mountains and not a single oz of problem with those brakes <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Thanks again.

I had mine painted by a truck lettering and pinstipping guy. $300 for a set of 6. Looks real good but not cheap. He used the slow drying easy flowing lettering paint.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Tbirdman, I live in Portland. I filled up today, and I told the attendant that *I* was going to fill up my '52. Yeah, Oregon law is that attendants must pump, but if I go to a station with my motorcycle or a classic car I always pump. Most stations around here don't want to take the liability of scratching a bike or a valuable car. So, if you want to pump it yourself, just tell them. If they have a problem, just give them some kind of reasonable excuse and they'll let you do it. I told the attendant that I had to do it because of the overflow tube in the line.... </div></div> Yes I have never had an attendant refuse me the honor <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> One did ask me if I had a custom paint job. This was before I asked him for the nozzle. He said his boss said if cars had a custom paint job, that their owners could pump their gas...for reasons of liability as you mentioned above.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I guess in Oregon gasoline must be dispensed by attendants, NOT customers. </div></div> Oregon and new Jersey are the two states that don't allow consumers to pump their own gas. I've have lived in both of them. The nice thing is you don't have to debate your self whether it's worth the extra cost per gallon to let them pump the gas when it's nasty weather out. You have no choice unlike the other 48 states.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That reminds meof the time we had our Twelve at a local gas station to get air in the tires (this was when gas stations still had free air) and a smart alec 16 year old kid gas jockey comes up & says "whut's it gut in it, eh big six?" You should have seen the look on his face when I told him, "no, it's a V-12" Priceless. </div></div> Neither of my cars can I fill up without getting a ton of questions. Though the pump jockeys are very respectful and most of them shake off the nozzle so no gas is dripping. Some hand me the pump handle with a paper towel. It's actually illegal to pump your own gas in Oregon, but I do it all the time. The T-Bird is a necessity to pump because the pump handle will fall out if not held.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Now they're probably waiting to see what you're going to drive in next week <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> </div></div> I just wonder where all the other classic car owners get their gas. I'm probably filling up at least once a week during the summer.

Tom, You don't want any brake advice from me <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Glad you found the problem and then came back and reported the solution - Thanks! </div></div> I hope by posting the solution, I'll help somebody else find the solution cheaper and faster, but thanks to those who tried to help. All advice is appreciated.

One funny note. I was filling up at a gas station last night with my T-Bird. One attendant was admiring the Bird. Another one comes over and says??Very nice car and you wouldn?t believe it but a beautifull 32 Packard was in here last week. You don?t see many of those?. Of course I had to let him know both were my cars. The attendent had forgotten that I was driving the Packard. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Back the adjustment on the shaft up and you will probably resolve your problem. As stated in an earlier post, you need to uncover the bleed hole </div></div> I have adjusted the shaft pretty much where it's not touching the MC when at rest. I put a little grease on the tip of shaft to make sure the shaft was not touching the MC at all whne I assembled it. </div></div> OK well I backed it off about two more turns and I bet you can guess - no problems. I don't have much adjustment left on the shaft and I can't figure out why this manifested itself over the winter, but the brakes work great now. So my motto now, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I guess I'll say it before you do..."I told you so" <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Back the adjustment on the shaft up and you will probably resolve your problem. As stated in an earlier post, you need to uncover the bleed hole </div></div> I have adjusted the shaft pretty much where it's not touching the MC when at rest. I put a little grease on the tip of shaft to make sure the shaft was not touching the MC at all whne I assembled it.

This is the second new MC I have installed in three weeks. Also the MC that was installed when this problem occurred was also less than a year old. I think I have eliminated the MC.

I have a 64 Thunderbird, drums all around. The brake pedal starts out normal and then as I drive it the pedal travel distance keeps shrinking until I have almost no travel. After the car sits a while (over 2 hours) the pedal travel is back to where it was. brakes were actually looking up until I adjusted the piston length on the booster, however, I don't think the pedal travel should change as you drive the car. I have made sure that the booster piston is not touching the MC when installed. I have the booster tested good, new MC, new flex lines in front, rear flex line was replaced last year. All new SS lines last year. I have replaced the wheel cylinders in the rear and will do the front tomorrow. Any ideas?