tbirdman

I ran into a Packard parts dealer at the PI meet that had an ash tray for a 32 coupe roadster. We got talking and he said it had a lid and swore it came out of a 32 coupe roadster. I bought it and he's planing to ship it to me. I can return it. All the pictures of the ash trays I have seen, do not have a lid. Could this had been an option, or did all of the 32's lose there lids? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> My 32 does noy have acover. This ash tray is located in the center of the wood grain tirm piece above the dash

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Did we ever determine what Ken was asking about ? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> </div></div> I was kind of wonderng the same thing, after all this? Ken? Did you make it all the way down here without your head blowing up? </div></div> Well I'm on my lunch break right now and I saw 22 replies and my first thought was what did I stir up. It is the indoor screens that I'm asking about not the outside covers whih are located behind the side mounts. So it seems the consensus is that you can chrome them, but that is probably over restored. It probably would look better and more correct to paint them the interior leather color. The control knobs are chrome plated. Of course every 33 and 34 at the PI show had these chrome plated <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

I'm trying to determine if the fresh air vents located on the side panels near the floor should be chromed or not. I saw some 33s and 34s at the PI meet and all of those were chromed but mine had no chromed on them when I got my car.

Well I was so engrossed in looking for things for my 32, I forgot to look for Kev. I'm coming to realize that 32 is a tough year to find parts for. Anyway I may have a lead on my elusive map light switch. I met a lot of nice people at the PI meet and had a great time. Pretty nice 34 7 passenger Phaeton for sale.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I was curious also, but now I'm Really Surprized, the one I got from Henry, about 6 years ago, for the 626, was very good quality and condition and it still looks great. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> I thought you desided not to put one on the '32 ? I really don't think it needs one, does it? Since the '32 has such a Great looking grille without it. They sure make it more difficult to keep the grille-shutters clean. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> </div></div> Couples of things were wrong. First there were tiny scratches in various places plus some larger ones. The frame was bent about 20% on one side. The hole at the bottom looked like a hammer was used to pound it into shape. Some of the curves looked like they were formed with a pair of metal snips. Since my grill had chrome that was not up to my standard, I was going to use the stone guard to hide it. I agree that the car looks better without the stone guard. I heard to do these right is very difficult. When I talked with the plating guy, they said they have a guy that will disassemble the grill, they plate it, and he reassembles them. Unfortunately he's only around during the driving season. I want this stuff done during the winter time when I'm not driving. They said they have another guy who could possibly do it during the winter. I'll wait until next Nov to decide on this. I decided it was too much to chew off this winter. I also took the grill to some other people to make sure I wasn?t to critical. The vote was unanimous-send it back. I figure I was going to get a rash of stuff from all you guys who didn't like the stone guard on the 32. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> I did get a set of Pilot Rays and those do look beautiful.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What were the trim pieces and from what supplier ? kurt </div></div> Yeska and it was a stone guard. However no problem with the return process.

I've haven't heard of them but make sure you get recommendations. The top notch plater I know of in Portland is Oregon Plating.

Well picked up the trm pieces today. They guy had already left for his 4 month stay in AZ. Before I picked them up he told me he was not happy with the trim pieces and wants to do them over when he returns in May. He said he was rusking and they sisn't turn out right to his satisfaction. However the dash doors came out much better. So I'll be taking the 3 trim pieces back to him in May. Also I went to a local chrome shop today to see what they could do on the reproduction piece of trim I had bought. They laughed and agreed that it was terrible quality. They advised me just to send it back and get my money returned.

OK Rusty, I can agree with you. I had a neighbor like that. I also cringe at people that will call parts supplier to milk them for info on fixing the car, but make their part decision on who is the cheapest. Oh the posts that begin, where is the cheapest place for... But some vendors..Oh boy. I just received something in the mail for my car. The chrome is scratched in multiple places and the piece is bent on one side. I know it was put into the box this way as the box was in perfect shape. I asked specifically if this was a show part. I won't mention who or what it is unless you PM me. Now I have to decide whether I'm going to take it to chrome plater, spend another $400 to get a decent piece or send it back. I also got something a month ago. It came with wrong attachments. I had to sent it back to get it fixed and was never reimbursed for my shipping charges though it wasn't my fault. Or the Packard dealer vendors you call up looking for a part, they say they will look for you and give you a call back. Then they never call back. This beef runs both ways. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />

I've been told that this car is heading towards Portland Oregon. I heard it was sold again after the auction winning bid (possibly initially bought by the seller). I wonder how many people buy their own cars back if the sales price is going to make them take a bath. It's painful as they have to take a 18% hit.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I agree with West. There are all kinds of prices and levels of perfection available in woodgraining. Once again, you get what you pay for. </div></div> I agree with you. That's why I make sure wherever I send stuff to be restore, pricing is a secondary consideration. My interior upholstery is being done by a shop that is considered to be slow and expensive. However no complaints abou their work. My chrome was sent to a shop where the only bad thng I heard was "they are a little prioey". My selection of the woodgrainer was done by recommendations and also the fact he was local.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">He did the job for practically half price and then you busted his chops for a trivial mistake on the kind of grain he used? Customers like you are the reason I'm glad I'm not in the auto repair business anymore. </div></div> Since I had given him instructions on what to staight grain and what should be burled it's not a trivial mistake especially since I'm restoring my packard to original specs. I did a lot of research to determine what was correct on a 32 packard and that's what I requested. It wasn't like after the fact I said that should be straight grain without telling him ahead of time. He also agreed that this work had subpar quality. I also told him before I started that I'm willing to pay for quality and I chose him based on recommendations and not price. I think most restorers would like working for me as I'm willing to pay for the quality that others expect for free. Also as I mentioned, I will be paying him more even after he did not want to take any additional money. So tell me aain why you hate working with customers like me that demand quality but also are willing to pay for it?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What process did he use? I had a quote 2 years ago at $200 per molding and the same for the strip that goes above the dash. The dash I can't find that quote. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> </div></div> He uses a different process that most other people use. Other people use a roller method which transfer the ink by roller. He indicated the one problem with this process was the ink will fade. He does everything by hand with brushes and automotive paints. The price on the dash was usually about 1000-1200. He also welded up a light switch hole that someone has put in for the trippe lights. When I was at Hershey most of the quotes were at the $2000 range to do the Packard.

The first one was without flash. Using the flash seem to hide the wood grain. His bill was $1065. You know the guy was very honest with me charging me only for his time. The other guys I had asked for a quotes were double this. I had not even discussed firm pricing with him except that the whole job would probably cost around $2K. If he had charged me $2K initially, I would had not offered to pay. I'm sure he do a bang up job this time. Also let me emphasize, that 99% of the people might have accepted the work as the quality was still pretty good.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Would they be willing to accept "Cloned" or "Tribute' dollars for them FAKE cars???? As a restorer, I really get frustrated by the over-use of "restored" to described fake and custom cars. If it is not as the factory did it, it is CUSTOM not restored! </div></div> I hate the overuse of "restored" or body off restoration as quality terms to describe original cars for sale. My comment is usually "Oh, they did abody off restoration, but kept the beat up trim on the body"

Here's another photo takin with flash.

Here's the woodgraining of the dash. I took two pictures. One with flash and one without. It's hard to capture the correct color. Anyway, I having him redo the other trim pieces. I was not happy with some of the work, and he agreed with me. He had also failed to straight grain the edges of the trim pices as I had instrucuted hom to do. For example the door pieces were straight grain on the top and burled on the side correctly, but the recessed area around the burl part should had been straight grained. He was going to redo them for free. However since he was so much under budget, I told him I would pay him more to do to the pieces again.

I wanted if anyone will be doing an article on the ratio of touches to bid that Amy Assiter delivers <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

Like today a 32 Ford going for $150K & 10% buyer fee at BJ Auction.

Hey I learned a new phrase from the BJ auctions...it's a tribute car. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

My biggest problem with the Speed TV is the announcers who have no respect for the cars...leaning up against them, hanging on them etc. I saw Mike Joy pick up the gas level indicator stick, explain what it was for, then literally through the stick back in the trunk. He did however when demostrate the use of a magnet to determine bondo, indicate that you should get the car owners permission first which I sure he didn't when he was showing how do do it. They also really give you know idea what shape these cars are really in except on a few occasions. Also why are they calling these clone cars, tribute cars?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Awww, man... It's a thing of beauty!!! Thank you. We took the Trico unit out, took off the backing plate, gave it a cocktail of oil and PB blaster, worked it back and forth for a little bit, and buttoned it up. However, the other point of problem was in the linkage where it met the wiper shaft. It was pretty gummed up on the pass. side. A little PB Blaster there and it flopped around like a wet noodle. With a nice rainy day here in southern Ohio, I took it out and tried the wipers. Wowie!! They slide over the windsheild like a knife through hot butter (or a hot knife through butter). </div></div> In the Classic Car Club magazine I received this week there's an article on this subject. Very similiar fix exceptthey recommend put wd-40 and then the oil in the air vent holes. Well since my driver side isn't working I'll try this once I get the car running.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Are we talking about the sweet potato bulb on the end of the steering column? And what model? I may be able to help. </div></div> If you can help him find this rare piece, Surely you can help me in finding a 32 Map light switch for the dash. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I was told when I was working on mine that that switch is very valuable and none are to be had. Sorry.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm allowing a month for putting my wiring harness in. </div></div> Tbird: I can't imagine your car taking that much time to rewire. There's so much less to it, and much easier to get behind the dash. </div></div> What dash? I'll be doing most of the re-wiring with the dash out as I removed it for woodgraining. No I agreee it should't take a month, but I'll be waiting for my gauges anyway so I need to stretch out the work <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />