tbirdman

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Owen_Dyneto</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you got that 1932 S-w fuel pump from Bob Stolzfus' spot in the "Packard Row", he was selling it for a friend of mine. It was a rebuild by Daytona Parts down in Florida and appeared to be an excellent and quite rare find. </div></div> Well I'm glad to know that. I hope it was built with ethanol resistant diaphram. The person I talked to said she was selling it for Oly. I found it within 1 hour of walking the swap meet. The label said it was rebuilt by Daytona parts. I wasn't looking for one, but accidently found it. In fact I almost walked past their space not aware they were selling Packard parts. It's about the last thing to make my 32 100% correct though I have never been deducted for it as far as I know for the AC pump I have. I need to run some new lines and get them plated as they outlets are different. Should the ears have some sort of reinforcement to prevent them from cracking, like a steel shell in the bolt holes?

One thing I forgot to mention... I'm always over budget on my restoration projects.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: K8096</div><div class="ubbcode-body">but I was just at Hershey for 4 days & can say there were a lot of early 1930's Packard parts there, and a lot of stuff is being reproduced. </div></div> Unfortunately 32 Packard stuff especially parts specifically for 32 coupe roadsters are hard to find. I was at Hershey, and though not specifically looking for 32 parts as my 32 is complete, I did not find much. However on the bright side when you described your financial status, it sounds like a long restoration which gives you plenty of time to look for parts. However looks like almost everything is there so you may not have to find much. Theres a 32 super 8 sedan for sale in Spokane now for $30K that need restoration. The seller says it's complete. That should give you an idea of what deal you are getting. You could buy that and use it as parts car

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: alsancle</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you can do all the chrome on that car for 25k you will be doing really really well. </div></div> Actually I think $25K should easily do the chrome plated needed. In the past 3 years I've done almost all of mmy 32 Deluxe 8 903 coupe roadster and it's way under $25K with 1st tier platers. here are my estimates. Haadlights $3K Bumpers $4K Grill $2K Windshield .5K tail and parking lights $1K Horns $.3K Headlight bar .3K Door handles 1K Misc $5K You need another $15K to do interior and top. $20K for paint. $10K for complete engine rebuild.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you don't buy it, let West buy it and you collect a finder's fee from him </div></div> Yeah, baby! Actually, my question is... "Is it a "real" convertible coupe?" I don't know if that would affect it's value greatly, but it might. I'm going to disagree with you in regards to its current "finished" value. That seems a bit steep for a Standard Eight. </div></div> West, Good point about being real roadster. That $175K range seems realistic from what I have observed as Super 8s (or Deluxe as in 32) are in the $250K range.

Matt, OK so you can buy it for around $30K. At today's prices a fully restored 902 coupe roadster will bring in the $175K range. Think of how many people you know that have bought a sedan that needed to be restored with only a top end value of $50K. With a lot of the work already done, you have a lot of room to spend $ for restoration, but not be upside down. However don't be surprise if you have another $100K in it before you are done. I would not restore this car on the cheap, but do it right even if it means stretching out the time for restoration. Chrome will be expensive if you do everything. Bumpers may be hard to find but the rumble seat steps may be harder to find. Looks like a great project and who knows at the end of 10 years when you are finished, it could be worth even more than today's prices. It's the right car to restore. 32-34 Packards are considered the best year Packards by many. Coupe roadsters rank up there at the top with dual cowl phaetons for body style desirability. If you don't buy it, let West buy it and you collect a finder's fee from him

Well I didn't do a big survey but I talked to one Packard part vendor and one generic part vendor. I did like the sign one vendor had "Pre-Obama prices"

One was a 1917 Packard twin six which I thought was high and another was for a 1941 Packard 120 woody. I'm not up on these particular car pricing so you never no. I saw a 1930 Cadillac Coupe roadster for $60ish which I though was a good deal. But you are right it's hard to tell if these are realistic prices though a guy in ou club with a 41 120 woody would be very happy if that one sold for $350K.

I've actually have fit a small suitcase in the rumble seat area. I think you could easily fit two soft luggages in that area...enough clothes for one man or 1/2 woman

Well I went on Friday, though Thursday would had been fine as the weather was great both days. I also think Thursday would had been a better day as it seemed a lot of vendors were packing up early. As usual Hershey is huge and I only covered about 1/4 of it before my legs gave out. I did score some unexpected. I found a fresh rebuilt 1932 Stewart Warner fuel pump. I have a modiefied AC on my 32 that looks similiar but is not correct for judging. Only had to give an arm for it I also discoverd a guy who claimed he had a metal trunk in show car condition. He wanted an arm plus two legs and my first born for it I resisted as the only time I would use a trunk would be on a tour as the trunk I think ruins the proportion of the coupe roadster.

I think the prices for the cars may reced. At Hershey yesterday, my conversation with vendors were that business was down this year at Hershey...though no shortages of $350K cars

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Glidden Tours are set up so that you go at your own pace. The folks driving in modern vehicles, such as your Packard, tend to "sleep in", while the older vehicle driver's are usually up and out of the hotel much earlier in order to be at the right place at the right time. I know that the people who take the pre-teen cars have an awful lot of fun, and they usually travel in packs. I like to get up and out early anyway, because I like to stop along the way if I see something that looks interesting. So, you take the Cadillac, I'll take the Packard. </div></div> West, We might be able to work something out...unless you want to stretch out on the back seat of the Cadillac. </div></div> Here's a recent post that says the Glidden tour will not be in Portland but perhaps in Colorado. So West you'll have to figure out another way to drive my 32.

Tom, I'll be unreachable from about 9 AM PST to 7PM EST if you try to catch me Weds. Your right about old vs new. If that steering wheel is similiar to mine as we think, it looks harder than it really is.

Well I couldn't imagine doing a restoration without this forum. Makes everything a lot easier when you can exchange ideas and pictures in a blink of an eye...though that also makes miscommunication faster Well off to the airport and most likely a visit to Hersey on Friday.

Speedster, See I have trouble with my horn button coming loose. I assembled everything together. Unfortunately you should tighten the horn button before you put everything back. If you don't that threaded post just spins as you try to tighten the horn button. However it's too much trouble to take it all apart so I just remember to twist the horn button as I drive. I actually wasn't paying much attention to the post as I thought you had it under control. You had me convinced. Though I know the 32 pretty well, I decided to check out the parts manual to see what the differences were. I'm glad I could contribute instead of asking for answers all the time.

Here is what it looks like with the button removed.

Removing the horn button just no access to the bolts which are on the other side of the face plate. Though if I did it again maybe, I wouldn't take the tubes all the way out.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Everyone seems to be ignoring my above questions but I'll try one more time. What I'm saying is that you Can get the wheel Off, without completely disassembling the colomn-tubes, light-switch, etc. if you can just get the button-backplate off, so you can remove the switch-levers (to prevent damage to them). Then removing the screws thru back of hub allows the wheel to be removed from hub. Much less work that way, (if you only need to remove steering-wheel that is, which was the original question). The button-backplate HAS to be removable Somehow! If you can't push in to release, like on '29, then there must be a nut or screws behind button? Or maybe removing the button also allows the backplate to be removed, if button screws into tube assembly? Tom (both Toms), did you try to unscrew the horn-button and see what is behind it? (The '29s unscrews by turning CCW) </div></div> OK I won't ignore any more The button/backplate as you call it (I think it is a front plate ), is fastened with bolts to the tubes that run down the center of the steering column. However the only way you can get to bolts is to raise the faceplate. The only way to raise the faceplate is to undo the tubes at the bottom of the steering column. The bolts are hidden in the recess in the center of the steering wheel. Your right the backplate has to be removable but only thru this process. I suppose you may not have remove the tubes entirely as once you raise the backplate enough, you would have access to the bolts. However I just took everything out as one unit.

Two years ago I couldn't find the regular parking. First time there, I arrived about 6 AM. It literally took me driving around an hour in the darkness before someone could tell me where the parking was. No one knew and I kept getting in the wrong line Of course once it was daylight it was easy to see.

Tom, I gave you my cell phone by PM. It's probably easier to explain verbally. The key thing to realize is: The center cap of the steering wheel is connected to a rod that goes down inside the steering column to the base of the steering box. Inside this rod are the control rods for the two switch arms on the the steering wheel and the wire for the horn button. It's not clear, but when you move the switches they are connected to long rods that end up at the base of the steering box. On my 32 one gets inserteded into a multi termal switch which controls the lights. The other rod connects to a gear which controls the throttle. Both of these rods fit inside a larger rod which I believe is fasten by a bolt at the base of the steering box. I'm calling these rod, but they are more like hollow tubes. Once you get these tubes free at the steering box end, all of that stuff will pull out leaving you with a steering wheel that is pressed on the steering column shaft. Once you get to this point, you still have to deal with a steering wheel that may be stubborn to remove. But let's get you to this point first.

om, I believe you are being misguided by an approach that doesn't apply to a 7 series car. Looking at the parts manual, a 30s wheel is very close to a 32 wheel. A good place to start is to look at the steering wheel removal post post of mine that Tom (Packin31)originally reposted earlier in the thread. To remove the steering wheel you need to first get the center cap piece and the switch rods etc out from the center of the steering post. This is all one unit. That is why all the pressing on the steering wheel center will not budge that cap. It is connected to the light rods which are bolted in at the base of the steering column. Removal is accomplished by removing the multi-terminal switch at the bottom of the steering box. Also you need to unloosen the bolt that is holding the center section at the bottom of the steering box. Once you get it unloosened, the center piece should pull out with the light switches etc still attached. This is an easy task if you have a convertible with the top down, more difficult with a coupe because of clearance with the roof. You then should see a big nut holding the steering wheel on the column. That should come off easy but the wheel is still press fit on the steering colmn shaft. Then I would advise soaking the center of the steering wheel in something like liquid wrench for a few days. Then rock the steering wheel with your hands back and forth to try to brake it loose from the column. You may want to put the retaining nut back on in case the wheel breaks loose suddenly and smacks you in the face. According to the parts manual there are screws that hold the wheel on. This all looks complicated but once you start taking off the light switch at the bottom of the column, it becomes clearer. Also try to look at the parts manual.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 51Patty400</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Can someone please post the details on this show. I am headed to Penn this weekend on business (flying out tonight.) Had no idea there was an event. - Mark </div></div> Hershey is from Oct 8 (Weds) to Sat Oct 11. Biggest swap meet in the US I believe. Tons of pre-war stuff. Large car corral, couple of auctions and a AACA meet on Sat.

OK just to satisfy all of you, I'm going to pick the worst day to go!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: superods</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Birdman you are now out of your element and into our "elements".... ie. Hershey-08. A group of us go every year. Have found......One day wet...One day dry...One day cold...One day warm...with variations thereof. I think that covers it. But you will be soo busy trying to find that "deal" you won't notice....I know I never do. enjoy !! </div></div> Well I know my feet will only handle one day of walking so I have flex in my schedule. Unfortunately a weather report a week out is not too reliable. I'm not sure what deals I will find but I am probably looking for more 1912 Cadillac related items than than 32 Packard parts. Two years ago, the trip really paid off as I discovered someone reproducing the 32 engine turned dash piece. The one thing I did notoce was how many Packard hupcaps were for sale

Tom, You're close enough to Hershey. Take a ride out to PA and see Grain-It giving demos.