tbirdman

It on EBAY .

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">And let us know how much your Electric-Bill went up? </div></div> It's not bad, but I wouldn't use it has a heater for all the time use. I use it it to heat up the garage when I work in it and then shut it off when I'm done. My garage being at the bottom of a 3 story house, keeps fairly mild at 50 when the outside temps are 32 and below so I don't have to raise the temp to high.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packin31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ken, Let West have the second dibs. I will make do with my little portable heaters. But thank you very much for the first offer that was very nice and kind of you. </div></div> Tom, OK, I will pass the offer onto West. I can now finally stop tripping over the box in my garage West, PM your shipping address. After I send it, I'll let you know how much it cost to ship. Ken

Tom, Today's your lucky day. Just pay for the shipping cost. The Dayton heater is brand new but the sheet metal on one cormer was slightly bent in shipping. It was a web based company I bought it from. They dropped shipped another one as a replacement for the damage one but didn't want this one back though it it easily fixed. All you need to do is fix the bent metal. You do need a dedicated 30A 220V circuit. As far as operating cost, I don't know. Let me know if you want it.

I got a 5KW 220V heater. Thought you may need it, but sounds like you only have 110V.

Need a heater for that garage?

I would think a insurance company if there is an agreed value policy, is only obligated to pay the agreed value and get the car in return. It's the owners fault for agreeing to lower agreed value realizing he is paying lower premiums reflective of the lower agreed value.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Owen_Dyneto</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Glad you got your answer, amazing how many questions can be answered with authority by just looking it up in the parts book. </div></div> Actually I used that book quite a bit when I was doing my restoration of the engine compartment. However sometime I wonder if anyone when judging these cars except a 32 Packard owner like me who has taken the time to accurately restore(to the best of my ability) the minute differences like copper washers on a valve cover bolt for a 32 Packard. I guess the the satisfaction is in knowing you did it as close as you can to original. Question is if someone spots incorrect copper washers, is it 40* points off

Here was a 902 boattail that was for sale about 2 years ago for $60K. The custom body was believd to had been done in England and looked nice. Car did need a restoration though pretty solid.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Owen_Dyneto</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Copper washers under the retainers are certainly correct for 1933 and 1934 and later 320 and 385 ci engines, it's called a annular ring gasket. If in doubt of correctness for your particular engine, just check the parts book, if they were to be used they'd be listed; part number used is 110575 for 33-36 which is very old number indicating that the useage when back a few years. </div></div> 30-32 models don't call out the copper washer. Must had been an addition done in 33. At least that is what the parts book says.

i drove my 12 Cadillac about three hors each day this weekend. Beautiful weather in Oregon, high of 60s. Even took it downtown Portland. I did get a little attention including people saying it was the msot beautiful car they had ever seen. Oviously they don't see too many old cars However in cold weather it stays in the garage. I had thought about buying a older car especially a resto rod to use for a daily commute. Yeah it won't drive like a new car (maybe that's a plus as previously stated) but you would be very unique. Don't forget you'll have to change your wardrobe to match the car you are driving Can't be seen driving an old car in modern clothes.

Most antque insurance companies as mentioned have restrictions. Most of it has to be that you don't use it as a daily driver and have it stored in a locked garage. The cost of the insrance has mostly to do with the agreed value which is what the insurance company will pay you if the car is totaled. I would think any thing south of $30K agreed value, would bring a less than $300 insurance bill.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave Mitchell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One of the reasons that I went with Hagerty years ago is that they didn't force me to get appraisals on all my cars - that can get expensive in itself. My premiums haven't gone up much in ten years and I have had great service whenever I had a reason to call them. If you can afford it, you are wise to insure to replacement value. A friend of mine lost a car this spring in a fire and had it insured with one of the largest insurance companies (not a vintage specialty company) and had a long, tough time making a settlement with them. It made me think about the values that I had my cars insured for. I have a friend in Oregon and he got a quote that was alot higher than what I pay, so I wonder if it is your rating there in Oregon - are you a no fault state? </div></div> Oregon is not "no fault" but where you live should make a difference. I wonder if my zip code which is Portland, but I really live in a suburb called Tigard makes a difference. I've only heard one complaint against Hagerty and that is amazing for an insurance company

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave Mitchell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don't forget the copper washers on the bolts, and seal the threads of the bolts too. No synthetics for a Packard, remember the wool that they used came from sheep who never got dirty and the leather from cattle in Texas where they had no fences to scar them up, so it has to be the Eider. </div></div> Just a note if you are doing concours correct, I don't think the copper washers are correct. I did use thread sealant on mine.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Can't they be Insured for Less than the actual Replacement value, at a lower premium cost??? (only partial coverage, but it should cost a lot less) I can only afford Liability, on Some of my cars, so I don't know much about that. </div></div> I wouldn't insure it for less than they are worth. That is what keeps me sane driving them knowing that if something happens I'm covered. I just got back from a 3 hour ride in downtown Portland, OR in the 12 Cadillac. It was a beautiful day to be out in an open car. I probably covered 75 miles. </div></div> Ken You are smart for doing so. If you have a total loss, the insurance company pays you the low value, plus they end up owning the car. Let's say a car is worth $500,000 and you insure it for $250,000. Let's also say that the car has been involved in "mishap", but is still "fixable." Unfortunately, it has been determined that the repair will cost $175,000. Since you have the car insured for $250,000 and the cost to fix is more than 2/3rds the stated value, the insurance company is obviously going to total the car, give you the $250,000, and keep the car. </div></div> This past May I actualy had raised the 32 Packard agreed value to what I think the car should bring. I had tried an year earlier when I had completed the interior restoration but they said I needed an appraisal for them to do that agreed value. I felt I was under insured by about 20% but procrastinated on getting an appraisal (not smart). In May when I called to insured the 12 Cadillac that I had just bought, I asked them about raising the agreed value on the Packard an additional 20%. They did it without asking for an appraisal this time. Go figure.

Tom, Not sure if I would had done what you did to the inside of the water jacket baffle. It's hard to see in there and you can't be 100% sure everything your pored in there has a good attachment. I would be afraid that some stuff would come loose. I believe you can buy repo water jackets for a 30. I did that for my 32 even though the jacket was in good shape, I didn't want to mess with anything coming loose and clogging the radiator. My .02. Did you every get the steering wheel off?

Tom, You know all of those 44 bolts that hold the water jacket should be painted Packard green and not plain or chrome plated.

Have you looked at Don Sommers . He makes door handles ...don't know about the escutcheons.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1935Packard</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have Hagerty and checked on this a few months ago -- I queried 1 or 2 other sites, and their rates were comparable or higher. So I stuck with Hagerty. I should also add that Hagerty was just terrific when I had a problem with one of my cars this summer: I couldn't have had a better experience with them, so I'm a loyal customer now. </div></div> Yep, I have no trouble with their service...and that's good info that their rates are at least comparable.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Can't they be Insured for Less than the actual Replacement value, at a lower premium cost??? (only partial coverage, but it should cost a lot less) I can only afford Liability, on Some of my cars, so I don't know much about that. </div></div> I wouldn't insure it for less than they are worth. That is what keeps me sane driving them knowing that if something happens I'm covered. I just got back from a 3 hour ride in downtown Portland, OR in the 12 Cadillac. It was a beautiful day to be out in an open car. I probably covered 75 miles.

Not sure if they have raise their rates, but my cars have a higher agreed to value. Because of the insurance cost reaching a significant annual payment, I was wondering if there was a less expensive option out there. I am happy with the Hagerty service but just wanted to compare.

My rates seemed to be climbing really fast. I currently have Hagerty. Any recommendations on others to consider?

One last question... Is the purposes of the fiber sleeves to take the strain of the ears of the fuel pump?

I believe I have one of those Echlin regulators, so it's close but if I could find an original...Are you willing to part with one of those you have so I have a spare?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Owen_Dyneto</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The rebuild was recent so I'd be confident it was done to be compatible with modern gasoline. As far as the mounting, best to check your parts book for the details, I'm only familiar with the 34 and up mountings but they used fiber sleeves in the bolt holes and in fact Packard used this technique well up into the 50s. Always a great feeling to get that "last" item, isn't it? Plating of the lines should be nickel, not chrome. </div></div> Your friend did a good job and I felt the price was reasonable with the bonus of the rebuild already done. I checked with the PI judging and though nickle is correct, chrome is accepted. I went with chrome just for easier maintenance. As far as last item, I think I'm just searching for the correct regulator which may be harder to find than the fuel pump, neither of which I found for sale in the past three years. Always comforting when you call up a Packard supplier and they start laughing when you ask for a impossible to get part. Always looking for a repo carb top. Seems like they only exist for std 8 carbs for 32. Is the purposes of the fiber sleeves to take the strain of the ears of the fuel pump?