jonlabree

If it was a vacuum leak would it correct when the car comes to a stop? Ceramic coating is .0001 thick and is not stopping the butterfly from closing. Any way I had this problem before I had it coated. I will check sensor readings tomorrow. Thanks for some place to start looking. It is very strange. The RPMs do not go down until the car come to a complete stop. Jon..

The throttle body was stripped and cleaned and ceramic coated last winter, so, yes it is clean.

My problem seems to be only the idle. When coming to a stop or slowing down the idle stays at what ever rpms that the engine was running before I let up on the throttle. Say I'm going 30 mph and reading 1500 RPM, I let up on the throttle to stop. The RPM stays at 1500 until I come to a complete stop. Then it come down to idle. I have checked and replaced all sensors on the throttle body, had Ryan, at SP adjust the chip. But I'm having the same problem. HELP!! Anyone Please. It's hard on the brakes and transmission. Jon..

THank you very much. What a great place thi is.!!!!!!!!!

One more question Gentleman. I need to know the same about the throttle control sensor. Please.

Can someone tell me the correct wiring sequence from let to right on the Idle air control? Also colors of the wires. I would be thankful for any help. Jon...

I'm afraid that all of them "Radio Shacks" have moved out to the boone docks.

No one put a K behind any suggestions. We ALL mean 3.3 to 4.4 OHMS.

Find a radio shack and buy the correct resister. 3.3 to 4. ohm or the error light will stay on.

This is polished!!!!!!

My idle is now normal, but I still have the original problem. Which is, Slowing down to a stop the RPMs stay high even if I take it out of gear. Only After I come to a complete stop the RPM come down to idle. Anyone, Please it is eating up my brakes. Jon..

Well, I fixed it. I don't know what I did but it's fixed. I took all of the sensors out of the throttle body and cleaned then including the holes they came out of and low and behold the idle is back at 800 rpm. It idles a little faster because of the cam. Thanks for all the ideas guys. Jon..

ALL RIGHT IT COMES OFF THE FAST IDLE. ok?

ALl the time. It comes off the choke but still runs fast.

My engine speed does not come like it should down when I let up on the gas. Even when I pull up to a stop the idle stays at around 1200 to 1500. When I completely stop it drops to 750-800 rpm. If I am running say at 50mph and let up on the throttle and shift to neutral the RPM stay high. I am at a loss trying to figure it out. Any ideas Please? Jon..

I'm sorry that I didn't get a chance to look at the tach at that speed. Otherwise, I could have figured the top speed out. I did have the limiter removed when I had the chip modified for the water/ menthol injection and the cam and supercharger. I Believe that the the lifters will float at about 5200 rpms.

Oh, The Miata was not going 120. I passed him at that speed.

I had my 90 to 121 once on the toll way, blowing off some jerk in a Miata. It still had more to go but the open space would not cooperate

I would like to buy a drivers side door pillar cover in gray. In great shape. Please contact me. 63viking.

This last winter on one of the coldest day I had a fuel pressure regulator rupture, inside. The diaphragm broke and flooded the engine and the oil with fuel.

Those are the plastic parts that chrome plated. Correct.?

Daniel, There is coating put on with electricy, but it is ver expensive. If you want I can try to look it up. I used to have a cataloge from them.

OOR, You could just use CERAMIC pads

You Guys make it so hard. The easy way and the fastest way is to take your dremil tool and put a 1 1/4" cutting wheel on it and crisscross the nut at 90%. Then take a cold chisel and nock of the pieces of the nut.

Yes it is from car motorsports. I got one for the trunk lid also.