Johan Boltendal

Today's view of the painted body

Thank you for letting us know, I sure wish for you, it will stay tight, Johan

Cadillac V-8 '32 All Wheather Phaeton, third owner, All nrs matching car, 46000 mls,total restoration after the build sheet, to the last detail, incl color.( Black on black, tan top) Bought the complete car in 2003,as a runner, turned out to be different, decided to do a total restoration, taking apart started in 2005,the restoration will be completed some time in 2008.I have worked about 3000 hrs on the car, till Today. Assembling the painted body will start in January, followed by the upholstery and top. I will take on another early '30's Cad, after this one is finished, Johan

This is a reply to your subject from Ed Miller, a while bHowever, if your Pines Winterfront thermostat turns out not to function or functions improperly consider utilizing the services of Jim Otto, a retired engineer who worked for the company that originally built the units. He can rebuild and/or recalibrate the unit for you. I have found his work to be exemplary and reasonable in cost. His telephone number is 865-966-9494. Tell him Ed Miller referred you to him. Good luck. Jim Otto 865-966-9494 is a retired sylphon engineer. He rebuilds and calibrates both sylphon and winterfront bellows/shutter type thermostats. He's very reasonable and quick. He rebuilt and recalibrated my 1934 Packard thermostat. perhaps it's of use to you, Johan

I can see your hope, but doubt it, if the water had gone down the way you said, there must be evidence on the gasket,the cylinder wall(s) and piston(s), white spots, water residu,fly rust on the wall, this rust develops within hours,ther must be a trace. Better build yourself a pressurize system to begin with, this way you will KNOW, instead of assuming this and that. Normally a headgasket seals without any extra's and 60 pound should do. I've expirienced with the '30's Cadillac's, 50 to 55 is sufficient.Certainly, a flat head and block surface (zero tolerance) are evident. Johan

It is a methode that will not work when the engine is put together again, as you say, you will not be able to find the leak when the engine is assemled. The head is sealed by this method and is put in water, so you can see where the bubbles come from, or better not as it should. The same should be the case with the engine, this being assembled and in the chassis, you seal the water opening at the top and buy a colored smoke canister from a convenient store and pressurize the sealed block, you will see the colored air evaporating at the crack or leak.You might want to try highly soaped water as well, filled in the block before testing, gives nice bubbles and will remind you of your youth perhaps. Let me know how it works out. Johan

Speedster, seal your water outlets at the top of the engine, steel or wood plates, with rubber on the bottom, will do the job, plug your water outlets and make a tool that will allow you to presurize the block or head for that matter, you will find your crack or leak in no time with this methode and it will not harm any thing. Good luck Johan

http://significantcars.com/cars/1928lasalle/fullsize.html This might give you the clue needed, 301, 328 and 341 are the same racks except a few (4) body styles Johan

Although I'm not familiar with Packards, it might come down to either an oiled disk or a frozen or to narrow primairy axle bearing,at the rear of the crank.You should however have the problems you name, with all gears,more or less. Let us know what you find out. Johan

The pump has to come off, the shaft and bushing are worn, that's why it's leaking so bad.The grease will not hold back that much water pressure, it's intended to lubricate the shaft, as well as providing a kind of water lock, within the OEM specifications.Good luck Johan

You are rigth the Cadillacs of the early 2o's are worth less the 30's ones. Although I'm not into your age of Cadillacs, I know them a bit I think a decent closed car, should be worth around 20 to 25 K. Doesn't matter if it's an older restoration, done properly, or an authentic one. A fine car to have/or consider buying. A complete paint, nickle and upholstery job will set you back at least 45 K, so a lot of car, if it's in good condition for an interesting price perhaps. Good luck Johan Boltendal Cadillac 1930 and 1932 for 40 years now.

Back then there were two options; painted or cemented cane. With cementing, the original woven French cane, was cemented to the body,the lesser option of the two,this methode was not as durable as painted cane. With painted cane, a chalked patern was made on the body, after the original French cane, over these chalked lines, a rather thick paint composite would be applied with a force-tube,like those used by pantry chefs, to decorate their cakes, because of the thickness of the paint, it kind of gave the same texture. How it's done Today I do not know.

I'm no expert on the '28 the'30 and '32 V8's I know, MPL says headlamps nickel, no specs for bumpers as chrome came late 28 or about I suspect it might be nickel all. You might want to visit the Cadillac club site and order an Authenticity Manual 2A for your car, well worth the $$ if you are restoring your car, Johan

acc to the 6th edition Cadillac La Salle Master Parts List,covering '26 to 36 all cars, the 303 shell is Nickel plated and the 328 is Chromed, Johan

You might try pouring little amounts of brake fluid throug the carb at fast idling,it smokes like hell,but it worked wonders back in the fifties decarbonising,learned the trick from my mechanic grand dad and dad as well. Haven't tried it for a while,so have no exp. with modern brake fluids. Johan

that's a 41 62 series engine, nrs ran from 8340001 to 8364734, so yours is an early '41 engine. Johan

The above is correct, lower the amount of oil up to 2 cm below the filling point, for the moment, sealed bearings will not be found, I think,besides that, the oil will eventually seep between the housing and support. See to it, that the diff ventilation is open as it should be,it might be clogged with dirt or paint, closed vents will allow the pressure inside to build up and this is the last you want. You will have to repair the failing inner leather seals, when ever you decide to end the leakage. Johan Cad '30 and '32

If there is that much oil coming out, two options, the rear axle has been over filled and leaks or has leaked from that , or your leather seals within the differential will be gone,to replace these you will have to take the shafts out, rear cover off and ring out, there you will find them. Replacing the outer felt seals will help for a little while, they will be soaked within a few miles and oil the brake linings again ,Johan

Saw your reply, would you possibly have the one for the early '30 Cadillac, especially looking for the 1930 to 1933 Cadillac Master Parts List,that would be 3th or 4th edition? thanks Johan Boltendal Cad '30 and Cad '32

Tom has received the pictures, he is welcome to share these with you on the forum. Johan

No it is not the same device, it's like a C ,open at one end closed at the other, very thick and strong, to take the force, when the screw is tightened, it functions like a one armed fixed puller, so to speak. U shaped at the bottom single screw at the top. As said e-mail me if you like a picture, Johan

Sorry to learn about your steering wheel trouble, you should use a C shape casting, with an U shape at the bottom where it slides around the outer tube, the U shaped holder was fitted with a fibre plate to prevent damaging the steering wheel. At the top there is a screw turning against the inner tube with a special fitting to prevent damaging the thread.You might want to weld a puller like this together to prevent further damaging. If you want a picture sent me an email jbmk@planet.nl Johan

Reynolds Speedometer 239 643 4103 phone/fax 2631 River Reach Dr Naples Fl 34104 He did an excellent job restoring my '32 Cadillac instruments.

http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/ Have a look at their site, it will be very helpful and nice people to deal with, Johan

Check your spark at the plugs, if it is there, change the no doubt fouled 12 plugs, the Marvel oil will have destroyed these any way after 7 years of cranking only. If there is no spark at the plugs and there is one at each coil, you have a distributor cap/wire or rotor failure.Allow me to remark you are tacklimg this the wrong way around. Do not use the ether again it could blow your engine and harm you quite seriously.The same goes for the 12V battery it could ruin your wiring, your gauges and a lot more, bulbs is of the leat interest in this sequence, there is no need for it too, it's like entering you house with a sledge hammer instead of a key. If you try to restart an engine after so many years, you should better follow the rules, clean the carburators and the tank,fill the tank with new petrol,clean and check the Autovac system,set your points gap, check the ignition and related wiring, replace the engine oil and coolant fluid, take a well loaded 6V battery and it will run,starting at 7 or 8 cylinders and if you are lucky run at all 12 after some time.Let us know when it's running and how you achieved this. Johan