Paul Bohlig

Try myers early dodge or romar in an internet search. Each supply parts for our cars and each lists felt seals Paul

You can time the engine with your 12v modern timing light as well: Hook the timing light energy needed to your modern car's battery by parking them nose to nose Hook the rest to the old Dodge With the crank hole cover open and before all this mark the flywheel by hand cranking to see the marks: TDC; BTDC, etc. Either a piece of chaulk or white out. For your car the timing should be 12 degrees BTDC. I found when doing this on my '28 6 cy. that it helps a lot to get the engine idle as low as possible. As you turn the distributor very slowly it will allow a slower engine speed. As the engine idle drops drop the carb idle as well. Same as modern car about 650 rpm at idle

Per DBC News April/May 04, p 22 The North Eat Type LB 6384 generator used on Fast Four engines should have an output of 18 amps at 1400 rpm. Not stated but obviously with no load such as lights or after market electric fuel pump, etc. You need a 6 Volt battery. Try NAPA and use their commercial 6 volt. Last time I bought one about $ 100 with exchange. Also, get a good quality battery charger rated 6 volt which will cycle to trickle charge to maintain the battery after charge. Mine is a Sears 6v/12v which works very well Best wishes Paul

I forgot to mention the obvious. Look at the title you received. List the VIN or engine number from the title when you post the pictures

Welcome francisco: Part of the confusion is that DB meant 2 different things. Dodge Brothers (DB) and a 6 cylinder 1928 Senior Six with a Model Code DB. Look at the engine from the passenger side with the hood open. On the engine block near the front, just back from the radiator there is an engine number stamped. Might need a bright lite after scraping away 82 years of crud. The engine number indicates a model code and begins with a letter(s) and numbers. If your Dodge Brothers (DB) is a model code DB the engine number will be in the range DB-1 through DB-2999. Let this forum know and post a picture or 2. Best wishes Paul

I agree with both Joe and Wayne: Safety is an issue even at the low mph our cars generally travel and the fact that buyer beware will not get the word out about vendors. But in the famous words of Forrest Gump: My momma always said, "Life was like a box of chocolates. You never know what you're gonna get." So, most of the people who are vendors are honest. But when dealing with a generally well to do customer who searches for parts not made for 80 plus years some vendors sell sizzle and we find no steak. That does not make it right but I believe this site does an excellent service of buyer head's up. Thanks to each and both of you Joe and Wayne. Paul

The 1914-1933 DB Passenger Car Master Parts List on Page D-14-8 under Gasoline Gauge Tank Unit Assembly lists part 604149 as used on DP,DQ This was the 1933 6 Cylinder US and the 1933 6 Cylinder Canadian Gas stuff tended to gunk out so value might be if you could make it work. Put a battery to it; outside with a fire extingusiher handy and lots of ventilation of course. Paul

Attached pdf from the July August 1986 DBC News page 10 Paul 21 DB electric.pdf

You might also try back ssues of the DBC News, available on CD's through the DBC store. They did a 3 part series on vacuum tanks: Apr/May 1998 pp 20-23 Jun/Jul 1998 pp 21-24 Aug/Sep 1998 pp 22-25 Great step by step stories on how they work (or don't) how to test, etc. The CD's are, in my opinion, I must have reference. Best wishes Paul

I need a pinion grease retainer seal for a 1928 Dodge Brothers Std 6. The original part number was 202433. The dimensions are 1 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 1/2. This was leather orginally. It goes in the front of the rear end; after the u joint on the drive shaft. This holds the rear end oil in. Mine started pumping rear gear oil out the front of the differential. My car is J 13XXX. This was also used on Victory Six after M 26246. Any ideas/ Thanks Paul

Per John's CD on Victory 6, Book 5, Section J, page 48; it is a Northeast 6128 used on Standard Six and Victory 6. I have a 1928 Std 6 and on the data plate mine says XM 6128. Try John or Myers or Romar per their email in the DBC News. One of them might have a lead on such a horn. Best wishes Paul

Search for Myers early dodge or Romar dodge parts. They carry alot of stuff, their catalogs are on line and at one time had an electronic ignition type distributor Good luck Paul

Thanks Rob; I particularly enjoyed the advice in 'Inspection and Care' to drop the oil pan once a year and clean. Almost all of us have done this at least once to get the gunk out and find it is at least a half day event and you feel like you have been working under an oil derick when done. So much for technical advice from 1928. Obviously the writer had never done this!

The Std and Victory used the same thermostat. Either a Robert Shaw 300-160 (available from NAPA) or a GM 350 will work. The Senior used a different thermostat if there was a winter shutter front for cars up north. Try removing the metal neck where the thermostat 'nests'. Take to NAPA auto parts and see if fits or is close. Modern gaskets from their off the board display will pretty well line up with the '28 bolt holes. You may want to take off the water jacket cover on the block on the driver side. About 25 small bolts. Plate about 4 in by 22 in. Lots of crude can accumulate there over 81 plus years. Olson Gaskets or Myers or Romar should have replacement gasket or just use form a gasket (caulk type gop) Best wishes Paul

Okay, so now we know all of you are the smartest electrical engineers in the world. What happened to answering the original question: Engine stalls, thought the idea was to keep these 80 plus year old cars on the road? Agree that good electrical connections are essential. How about the next step? Paul

Sorry some of the 'posters' appear difficult. Check some other things which can be made more pronounced with higher outside temps: 1. remove # 1 spark plug and look for soot; carbon. Means too rich a carb mix. NAPA and the DB Club vendors sell new plugs. NAPA required a purchase of a box of 12 when I bought because special order. That way you have 6 in block and 6 ready to go. Check the garage section on this site for plug number and torque values. Turn down carb idle as soon as engine runs. Look as tail pipe: is it sooty carbon? Too rich 2. Replace spark plug cables between spark and distributor. Many purists insist on the old time color braided cables with the push in connectors. Skip those and buy the new molded modern cables. Measure them but roughly: 2 @ 15 inches; 2 @ 12 inches and 2 at 9 inches. 3. Consider the after market electronic ignition distributor from Romar or Myers or other reliable DB vendors. You do need a compatible coil. It makes a big improvement. None of these directly address your vapor lock concern but in my experience the above issues can amplify out of tune conditions with hot weather or run temperatures. Paul

I have a DB '28 STD 6. Per the book and my failing memory: You have a 12 volt system? You have a vacuum tank which does not work well? Go to your local NAPA and get: inline 1/4 inch fuel filter. 12 volt dc fuel pump dial fuel pump regulator. Most say 1/2 psi to not flood carb. mine seems to run best at 1 and 1/4 psi. Depends on your fuel seat. Do all these things outside with plenty of ventilation and a fire extinguisher handy. paul

Join the Dodge Brothers Club ASAP and buy the CD's of the DBC News. Great resource. The vac tank and starter on the drivers side when viewed with the drivers side hood open. The generator is on the passenger side with the hood open. Does the engine run? Keep in touch. Paul

Congratulations. I think each of us has been there at some point in the old car repairs. Paul

I stand corrected. Actually my fuel filter is between the fuel tank (inside the driver side frame rail) and the electric fuel pump and mechanical regulator which I use to bypass the vacuum tank. I know, I know the vac tanks worked for decades. Thanks for catching my mistake. The plastic fuel filter near the exhaust could, would be a disaster. Now about the no vac at the carb? Bad leaky gaskets at carb, to intake to engine? Reused gaskets on these connections? Beats me but the idea of taking off the valve covers off is good. Also, maybe remove spark plugs to ease load on battery while turning over? How could it run at 3/4 open choke if no vac? Paul

I agree with carbking and he knows a million times what I do since this is his business. From my experience he is absolutely correct. These old 6 cylinder updraft engines are cold blooded if not cold hearted. On my '28 Dodge Standard 6 the choke is definitely needed until warm up. This may take 5 to 10 minutes or more even at the 60 degree daytime temp in Akron this time of year. Agree 3/4 choke a bit much. When I ran the Zenith I often did not turn off the gas at the vacuum tank wishfully thinking I would drive the car again soon. Several months later it would not start. There are more solids in gas than you would think which become varish when the VOC's evaporate. So, from my experience: 1. Add an in line fuel filter either 1/4 or 5/16 from NAPA. As close to the carb as feasible. 2. If yours has a vacuum tank fuel pump tank off the top fittings but not the top to see if the filter screen is clogged. If mechanical fuel pump add a filter before the pump. Consider removing the gas tank and flushing. I think I got a 5 pound coffee worth of crud can out of mine 30 years ago !!! 3. Assume the engine rebuilder simply removed the intake and of course exhaust manifolds but did not rebuild your carb. So, take carb off and soak outside in new gas or carb cleaner covering the carb. Remove idle and main jet pins and blow carb cleaner through carb. Use air compressor to clean the carb. Maybe throw out the gas cleaner (kills weeds well) and repeat. 4. Once it runs well and it will add that shut off valve and with the engine at operating temperature and running turn off the shut off valve until the fuel in the carb is consumed. As the engine stalls goose it a couple of times with throttle to use up the gas. 5. Look for an after market airfilter. I use a NAPA motorcycle filter with adapotor in the summer. The old hot air pipe FORD used and others copied worked but so, so. Do not give up Paul

I have a Zenith 267 updraft after market carb and the initial get it to run specs are: Throttle screw 1 and 1/2 turns open Idle 1 turn open Main 1 and 1/2 to 2 turns open I remember I had trouble sensing when the main was set correctly. You probably need to play with or find a carb guy who has an 'ear' for doing the final setting Paul

I think Jan is certainly correct. I would add a couple of points from working on Model T wood wheels: 1. Before you remove the drum turn the drum over and punch a mark where the tire valve stem will be. This of course will be between a set of bolt holes. This will remind you to center the drum to the same location. 2. If you are going to remove the wood spokes and refinish you should mark each one again starting at the valve stem and going clockwise. Put the mark point at where the stub of the spoke goes through the wheel holding the spokes. I bought metal push pins numbered 1 through 20 (for example). These were used on old, old houses which had removable screens and storm windows to mark the window, the screen and the storm. Maybe a little harder to find today but try one of the few remaining city hardware stores. The point is that all these parts were interchangeable 80 years ago but after 80 years of interacting they will definitely reassemble easier if marked before disassembly. Best wishes Paul

Hello again Gerd and good day: There is some change in terms over the years: A. Back then they called (what we now call) the driveshaft from the back of the transmission to the front of the rear end the propeller. B. They called the axles the driveshaft!. These are the things connected to the wheels. Anyway, the master parts book for what we now call the axles show right and left interchangable on Std, Senior, Victory. So, if you have the piece about 1 meter long (shorter maybe?) threaded on one end geared on other end where it connects to differential (rear end)you should be okay. I know you just picked up the car put a picture and description of condition would be nice. Best wishes; Paul

The Senior, Victory and Standard used very similar bodies. They are often confused with the Ford Model A sedan because it is a big boxy body. Of course the Ford Model A used a steel spoke wheel whereas the Dodge continued the wood artillery wheel which added probably 150 pounds to the car weight. I am glad you got some information from Myers; in addition, Romar and others supply a limited number of mechanical parts. I could not figure out how to add a picture here. Our email is: paulmarg@gmail.com and I will send you a picture of our '28 Std 6 if you send me your email address. In addition to joining the club; the club has a 3 CD library of many issues indexed by model and by topic. It is around $ 50 USD and can be purchased through the club. It is a useful reference. Also, I have 3 articles one each about the Standard, Victory and Senior 6. If you let me know a post office address I will copy and send you these at no cost to you. They are of course in english but since your english is so much better than my German you should have no problem reading them. Each is only 3 to 4 pages. The copy is bad so I doubt I could scan it and attach as an email. Paul