HarryJ

I have used both the modern 90..120w and this new 600w. Most of my owner's/service manuals call for 600w. I have noticed the heavy stuff is quieter and the straight cut gears seem to shift better (pre syncromesh). Chris, who made the transmission in the Paterson; do you have an owners manual or service book?

Good point Bob, Chrysler produced a series "70" in '30 and '31. I assumed the car was a 1928 model or there bouts.

Nice job Dean! You are very good at re-engineering things.

Dean, I was wondering what the guts of these early filters looked like. If you don't mind keep us posted in this restoration/re-engineer of the oil filter. By the way, the Southern Calif. Region CCCA reproduces the decal that goes on the filter.

First off, it is either a '27 series "70" or a '28 series "72". 1927 was the last year of the "70". According to the Standard Catalog, 6416 std and sport roadsters were produced in the series "72"; as to the '27 series "70" there are no production figures.

Curti..........Could give us an indication as to which shops did not live up to your expectations and why?

Is T.J.Litle still alive? .................You are right the book is expensive; if this quote is market!

West, thanx, that's what I was seeking. Manuel I' ll check out the article.

Thanx Susan, I thought I might get a broader audience at this location. Oh...by the way, thanks for the tip on pillaging and burning!

Is there a definative History of Marmon?

Quick update on progress......Today I talked to John Wolf; he has my instrument cluster. I gave him the go ahead to restore the assembly after we talked a few details. He told me it might be between 4 to 6 months before I see it again. I look foward to that day. I also talked to Joey Jessers, re: the pop out switch. Hopefully, he will have it replicated soon. The body work is coming along slow; however, it is excellent! I hope to retrieve the body with all of the sheet metal work complete in the next 45 to 60 days. When I get the body back it will be my turn to restore for a while; I look foward to getting my hands bloodied and dirty again.

Rusty, good question;............ long answer........see above.

More Pics.

This is a rim spreader..................NOT A RIM CONTRACTOR>>>>>>>>>>>>NOTE BROKEN UNITS. I have some pictures for your review.

Thanx Mark!

Does anyone know where this engine is?

Thanx Dan....This guy really looks to do very good work.

Yesterday, the machinist working on the two projects I took him called and said they were done. Today I drove up and picked them up. As always he did a superior job. The guys on the assembly line in 1928 couldn't tell the difference from their work and his. The gas pedal was an easy matter; however, the door stop arms were a different matter. These required machining some small step studs and recreating some odd looking small flat anti-rattle springs, then brading these studs to replicate the original brad. These arms go between the slots in my third picture in this posting to the upper door jam stud in the fourth picture. Nickelroadster, I left you a PM with my cell #. I am not at the shop during the day. By the way the Atlanta Speed shop occupied the building in the days when NASCAR wasn't cool.

Dean...I am really enjoying looking over your shoulder as you restore your Hup. This is quite an education I am getting! The clutch modification is a great solution to your problem! By the way, I am a believer in vacuum tanks; I don't think you would get vapor lock using one of these units. If the fuel boils in the line the vapor will go up the line to the tank and to atmosphere; and the column of fuel will push gas to the carb. A lot of people have converted there cars to electric pumps. Also, I will mention modern replacement wires are just plastic covered wires that have been run through a braiding machine to cover them with cotton braid in the correct color patterns. Keep the posts coming ...your posts are to the true spirit of the "current restorations" forum.

nickelroadster...Thanks for the reference to Restoration Supply and Threads for the South. I was aware of R/S; but not of Threads, I'll have to check them out. Maybe you could post a pic or two of your car one of the other forums. As to were my shop is; It is in the old Atlanta Speed Shop on Angier Ave. near the Carter Center.

I would like to see that car!

Nickelroadster....Thanks for the lead. I plan to call Caswell next week. By the way were did you come up with the moniker?

Traffic here in Atlanta is still as bad as it has been; a matter of fact I think it is worse. Traffic on the ever widening interstates still requires you to come to a stop or creep along at 2 or 3 miles an hour each time you go out in the mess. If you are going on a juant of 10 miles or more you will encounter at least two if not three tie ups.

I hope prices do come down as I am in the market for another car.

I need some more advise...Today I took out the instrument panel to study it and plan for it's restoration. I studied it for a while and also studied the wiring diagram in my owner's manual. While studying it I took apart and reassembled some sections of it to familiarize myself with it's inner workings. I took out the gas gauge and it fell apart in my hands. It seems the inner frame of the unit was a zinc diecasting and had deteriorated. The guts of this gauge will have to be replaced in it's entirety. I can't do this. I didn't open or remove any more of the guages in fear I might end up with many small heaps of parts. When I was through in the shop I got out my Hemmings Motor News and discovered 11 ads for instrument rebuilders. I was wondering who you might reccommend to rebuild my instrument cluster and what experiencies you have had or if there are some rebuilders that don't advertize in Hemmings; but you could recommend.