Jeffrey Backes

The boost control is handled by the computer. You should see a solenoid on the passenger side that "bleeds" pressure to regulate the amount of boost allowed.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TCandme</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The link from TC America does not work anymore, and it is a pain in the a-- to get here. </div></div> Sorry about that, AACA changed the URL on me... It's fixed now jeff

Very common problem, the lubrication used in the Odometer turns into glue at about 60,000 miles. Larry at TCParts.com will be happy to get the unit fixed for you for a very reasonable price. I have a "how to" remove project on my web site, don't try to replace the gear alone as I first did, it will just break again! TC Projects Page

On an 89 common block, if the timing belt were to go while the engine is running, would the engine be damaged? jeff

if you have the 2.2 turbo, you need to check the two fuel lines on the passenger side.

Perhaps you need a math refresher ;-) C = 2piR is the formual for calculating circumference. Your formula will be off by about 14% which at 60 miles an hours is about 8.4 miles per hour. Oh and area is piR^2 http://www.mathgoodies.com/lessons/vol2/circumference.html

You can also use a GPS. Much more accurate. PI == 3.14159265658 ;-)

There is a company named "Dent Pro" out here in CA, they specialize in paintless dent removal. The tech comes to you and gives you an estimate. He was able to fix every dent and ding on the car except for those that were right over a cross member. Another idea, would be to sand down the hood, bondo then block sand. If you go to a VERY GOOD body shop, you'll never notice the difference. Bondo used to have a very bad rep, but now I see more and more of it and when it's done right, it can make small imperfections disappear. When I was young, I had heard that you could use dry ice to pop a dent. I just did a google search and came up with both "it works" and "it's a myth"

I assume you'll also want $$$ at some point ;-)

I'd like one as well...

Well, first off we know your starter is good ! Two things to check, spark and gas, you seem to have done a pretty good job of checking for spark, but what about gas? Are the injectors firing? Is the fuel pump working (pressure check)? If you yank a plug do you smell the gas? Sounds like you are a much better mechanic than I am... Just trying to help. jeff

I don't know what model TC you have, but this was one of the problems I was having before having my transmission serviced. The kickdown system inside the transmission was at fault.

I just got off the phone with AAMCO... Seems that my transmission has seen better days, heck there are LOTS of miles on it so I guess that's to be expected. I'm sure I read somewhere that there is a drop-in FOUR SPEED AUTOMATIC that can be used in place of the stock 3 speed. Is this true? Is it a good idea? For around 1.5k parts and labor I can get my rebuild with a lifetime warranty... Advice? jeff

You might want to make sure you get "real" TC glass. I bet Larry at TCPARTS.COM can get you one. jeff

No, I bought chrome ones.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Took my tires off and noticed some of the lug nut covers were missing. Where is a good place to get some more? Still trying to buy a service manual on Ebay for an 89. </div></div> One will show up sooner or later... Remember you want the one with the blue cover. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> While the wheels are off I noticed what appears to be quite a bit of rust on the front end and exhaust system. The car is from Kansas but maybe it lived somewhere else before? </div></div> I think the exhaust is stainless steel from the factory. Perhaps yours is no longer stock... as far as the other parts, wire brush and rustolium can be your friend. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Could some of the trim be aluminum or is it all stainless? </div></div> All of my trim brightwork is stainless.

Sounds like you're having way too much fun ! My cupholder upgrade had the same problem about not quite being long enough... When I lined my cubby with self adhesive felt, I glued in a piece of light weight fiberboard to make up the gap first. Also, don't forget to stow your cup holders when not in use as it is probably rubbing against the leather.

That makes me wonder.... Is that covered by a tread life warranty? Glad you found the problem, not much I hate more than a front end shimmy... Welcome to our little club, please ask all the questions you want.

I bought two chrome emblems today on e-bay, I'll send pictures after I've mounted them...

I've also thought about replacing the PentaTrident in the front with a Trident... If I only owned a Machine shop!

Here is a link to my anti-lock brake and master cylinder... Anti Lock Brake Picture Note: I have a 4 cylinder turbo.

Unless the previous owner took it out... You should see a 5 inch stalk with a ball at the end above your master cylinder. jeff

Attached is a pictures of the part I replaced. I was told that on common block motors, there is no "bulbous" part. jeff

One of these days I'm going to have to send my Speedometer off to Larry at TCParts so I can compute my gas mileage <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> I replaced the gear but it didn't last long. (Yes Larry, you told me so)

Mark, I have Bridgestone Potenza RE910. 205-60 R 15. I will be replacing them soon with RE950s of the same size... TireRack has them for $85 each which compaired to my Wife's Mustang Z-17 seem very cheap. These tires get great reviews. I lived in Missouri for 15 years (Higginsville) but I'm now a left coaster.