buick5563
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Posts posted by buick5563
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Re: paint
Hirsch was way off last time. Not enough blue. They are always changing no matter the source.
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I recommend a solid state flasher, as well.
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Buy it and try it?
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2 hours ago, SpecialEducation said:
It's ok. I'm well versed in Top Gear (don't ask which version, there's only one)
Correct.
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I don't know.
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Which could mean that the left side isn't working at all. Kinda the opposite problem of "fade". Adjust em again, and definitely check the alignment.
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5 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:
I don't know....much of what I purchase from the suppliers works ok. Longevity of the parts remains in question. I'm happy there are several places to call on for parts.
I'm not pooping on the suppliers' parts. I have used all of them in the past and will buy from them again when I absolutely have to. My main gripe is that there is no competition so they don't have to be nice or fast. Ever buy Chevy parts? They ship as fast as Amazon. Friendly too. (This last statement is not about Bob's or Fusick.)
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If it comes down to making em yourself, just buy a new set from Russ Martin. They are billet aluminum and not original, but they work.
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The difference between Bob's, Fusick and The Jersey folks is that you can tell Bob or Fusick the motor mounts are no good and they say they won't sell them until they are right. YOU are ALWAYS wrong when help is offered to the East coast supplier. I have known about this problem for years. Cars and Classic (who is just a reseller) still sell them.
Get them revulcanized at Steele.
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Get the book, you need one.
The bottom starter bolt is easy to get out, the top one, not so much. They might have a version of that wrench at an auto parts store. It's really bloody hard to make any other combo work well, ESPECIALLY if you don't have a lift.
Wiring: Make sure your wires don't touch each other when you reconnect them to the rebuilt starter. Oh... And disconnect your battery first. That big wire on the starter is connected directly to the battery and big sparks would fly if you tried to disconnect the wire with juice flowing through it.
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I saw the commercials, and it intrigues me, too be sure. Not to nitpick, it is a three part dramatic mini-series not a documentary.
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With that said, here is a pic of my freshly painted underside of my 55 Conv.
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Yes.
Technically, it is red oxide primer used originally. Anything close will do. That 54 was restored very well by a friend of ours on the forum and the retired owner of TP tools.
It is an extraordinarily anal thing to do, as you can't see it under normal "one knee" chassis judging that the BCA uses.
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Make sure you have an inline electric fuel pump installed before you leave to combat vapor lock.
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Wait a second. The headlight surrounds are different looking with turn signals built in on large series cars. Is that what you are talking about?
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Woo hoo. I didn't even measure.
Rainman strikes again!
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I'm not sure the actual size, but Willie's size is for half (upper or lower).
It is kind of a squished circle. I would estimate it to be 7/16" x 1/4"
Somebody should measure before somebody else buys an incorrect size because of me.
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Those are the parts that you are going to want to replace. When I pulled the main bearing cap from a customer's car last week, they literally fell out of the engine. Maybe if you installed them with some sort of gasket sealer they would work.
Maybe...
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I just had to do this on a nailhead. Somebody installed those rubber side "gaskets" with just the nails. No pookie of any kind. Leaked like crazy. Use Wille's method. My Special is still leak free back there after he and I rebuilt the engine 14 years ago.
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Yep. That screw on the bracket should have the ground strap attached.
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I'm pretty sure they are like 1955 springs, the rears are elliptical on top and bottom and can't exchange.
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Exactly. Good job
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Buickrodder Russ Martin sold me one with an American flag on it.
new 1956 Super owner
in Buick - Post War
Posted
The Rochester with heat exchange hat the plate. Carter didn't.