buick5563
-
Posts
4,650 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
25
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by buick5563
-
-
Yes.
-
1
-
-
^^^What Matt said.
-
That is just the way the 54/55 covers were made. More of an air gap. You can see the spark plug numbers on the upper part of the cover with the wiring "hole" above.
-
1
-
-
I can't wait to race the car.
-
3
-
-
Max speed was going up a hill with plenty of pedal left.
-
5
-
-
I'd do that for you, Mr. E
-
Bill Stoneberg just had some wheels straightened here in Austin. They also powdercoated them at the same time. You may want to check with a "wheel" dealer.
-
I could conceivably. I haven't mapped a route...
-
1
-
-
I thought about this thread today and wanted to ask one thing.
Why?
If you have a 350 in it already, just install an aftermarket AC system that will actually work.
Have a lovely rest of your evening.
-
4
-
-
Somebody is going to have to navigate me there, mostly cuz I'm not paying attention to these details.
I have room for three easily!
-
Thanks Chris.
I guess I should mention that the car I am working on is on a lift. It isn't necessary to remove the bottom nut in my case.
-
Did you guys remove the springs?
3 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:The good Lord smiled upon me. I kept the axle/torque tube level with the transmission using a floor jack and pulled hard. Out she came with no fanfare.
21 minutes ago, Rosiesdad said:Mine came out with a floor jack under the diff too. Putting it back I used a come along.
-
You should get one and install before you bleed it, but I have changed a brake light switch without bleeding after with no ill effects.
-
I will continue the off topic discussion. Whether or not something is authentic or original, if it is in good shape, I would spend my money elsewhere until the seats REALLY needed to be replaced or REALLY bothered me.
-
5
-
-
For future reference, this is how I pull back the rear axle to replace a torque ball retainer. I use a ratcheting tie down meant for trailering. Use the bumper bracket, not the hole in the frame or you will rip the frame. I have done this in the past with the skinny tie downs that keeps plywood from flying out of your truck, but they are underpowered.
This is AFTER you have disconnected the shock links and rear sway bar at the rear, and the four bolts holding the front of the torque tube to the torque ball.
Then proceed with manual instructions.
-
http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecatalog.php
Use these guys to find a number.
Or go to Napa or O'Reilly. They both have most "maintenance" items.
-
Sand the old tubing flush with the fitting, and it will pull out.
Then reuse.
-
3
-
-
I'm guessing it would be a point or two in judging.
I would install a frame mounted hitch for safety, as well as the obvious trailer brakes and trans cooler.
-
2
-
-
My head is swimming with stuff I wish I understood.
Get the two Kens together and start K&K Nailhead pros.
-
1
-
-
I really like this. I can't take it on either.
Definitely a Great Race car!
-
Actually the rate has gone up. I got $175 a day recently for a movie. I drove it in costume and got paid minimum scale of $51, so the car is worth more than I am.
-
3
-
-
Yep.
Post pics of the old ride height on the HAMB.
-
4 hours ago, MrEarl said:
Goodgawd man, have you looked here?
http://classicfordradiator.com/1954-56-NEW-Buick-3-row-radiator-regular-core-design-3131176.aspx
these have gotten good reviews over on the '54 Buick Highway
Lamar, I've got that bookmarked from last time you mentioned it.
-
1 hour ago, Mark Shaw said:
Mike,
All you need now is to grow some handle bars on your moustache!
Great job! Thanks for posting...
That, and a pre-war Buick
-
2
-
1947 56C Project "Can't finish unless you start"
in Me and My Buick
Posted
Love this, Matt!