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buick5563

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Posts posted by buick5563

  1. As most of you know, I started taking in other wayward old cars to fix, repair and restore. The real disadvantage of that is that there is no time or more importantly, real desire to work on my cars. Even on light customer days, I'd rather regrout my tub than getting all greasy on one of mine.

    So this project stalled for a while.

    I have just been remotivated to work on it. Think of it as a light switch that once again got turned up.

    Now the advantage of doing this for other people all day is that I am better and faster than I used to be.

    I removed and installed the hood three times in the last two days and am finally happy with the fit. Tomorrow if the weather holds I will begin blowing it apart for paint.

    Note to self. Order leather and send chrome away...

    Had to use a come along to pull the fender to where I wanted it:

    A5F61BC4-D0AE-4E1A-A862-94DB31089699_zps06zv2hcx.jpg

    Final fit:

    9BBFF973-83C2-432B-B3AB-D7A833B87F9F_zpspnst8l5i.jpg

  2. I get all of this, but clearly the pics were taken before disassembly and sanding.

    When you have a Baggie with shims in it, that you took off and swore you would remember what "two up, 1/8" then washer" means two years from now.

  3. BTW, Willie made me buy this pair at some Nationals, after telling me my T-3's weren't correct. I will say that these cost only slightly less than the repro T-3.

    As far as finding some, pretty slim chance. Like Old Tank said, just use non halogens, or buy mine for $250 after I have the convertible judged...

    ;)

  4. Rusty,

    I don't have any photos of gaps right now, but in literature I have read, it says the gap is supposed to be an eighth of an inch pretty much everywhere. I know the front and back of my Special (which have really good gaps) are bigger than that. Anything less than a quarter of an inch with very little variation in any one gap will look fine.

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