JohnD1956
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Posts posted by JohnD1956
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Thanks for the reply Bryan. I thought about e bay, but I have never sold anything there and am somewhat uncomfortable without a full understanding of how it works and what my responsibilities are.
I guess I will have to learn what it's about sooner than later in this case. It is a shame that these Electras get little respect. If I could, I'd love to keep this car and refurbish it for a daily driver. I think the big Buicks are unbeatable.
John d
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ttt : Just in case you changed your mind, I now have a full functional interior and the patch panel that goes on the drivers side rear. I also know where there is a good passengers side fender well.
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I think a lot of those oil cups were rendered incapacitated over the years as parts were rebuilt with newer sealed bearings. Look for on eon the distributor too. Chances are that one still needs oil occasionally.
Looking forward to the pictures.
JD
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Keith, this is a worthy cause. Can you tell me who would be the recipient of pledged funds?
John d
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Yes, that's the one I meant. I'm sure these are double flared. We just spent the last two weekends bending up all new fuel lines for Doug's T type. Your car will be a piece of cake compared to that one. Dougs car has 5 lines running side by side the length of the car. Separate brake lines for each rear side, a 3/8's fuel supply, a 5/16th return line and a 1/4 vent line, all running within 1/8th inch of the other, and fitting into 6 plastic brackets that keep the set up underneath.
I sure wish we could have done better than we did but we got them all back in in their brackets. What a pain.
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IT was disturbing when they sank the 51 Chevy truck. It was downright uncalled for when they sunk that 59 Buick.
John d
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Lets remember they are just cars, and no need to sell anyones soul. But it would have been nice to see better weather
By the way, What was the composition of the various classes again?
JD
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I don't think you'd be able to easily see a single flare vs a double flare. This is because the way a double flare is made the 1st flare folds over onto the 2nd flare. They become one flare just double strength. I would think the car has double flares. Did you try posting the question to that other web site mentioned? Maybe they can assist on this fact.
JD
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A co worker came across this postcard in a group he bought on a whim. He thought I would like it. I thought you all might like it too.
HE said when he first saw it he thought it was someones idea of a caricature of an antique automobile.
Then he turned it over and saw the postmark.
Just thought it was a neat find.
JD 1956
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Just a note to say we had a great time at this show in spite of the liquid sunshine. I thought the cars were so nice, and the open touring cars in the rain were a special touch. But the show was well organized, the hotel was accomodating, the cars were teriffic, and we hope to come back next year when the weather WILL BE better.
John D
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Welcome indeed. Forming a chapter is a lot of fun, and some work, but the Buick people are a great group to work with. We should swap some ides being we both are just organizing in 2005.
Wish you all the success...
John D
Director Upstate NY Chapter
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Hello Dude. You are certainly welcome here. Your car is awesome.
Good luck with it.
John d
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a 15 year old boy who has a 58 RoadMaster. He needs one part to get it running
Lets hold this thought for a moment. Something the average person could install in the back yard to "get it running". I agree with the starter. The average person would be muystified with points and would never tackle the torque ball seal or the distributor replacement. But I think the starter is fair game for someone of this experience level.
JD
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Alright Keith, NOW who's looking to make trouble???
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Oh my! Whoever did that just ought to be slapped.
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did I do that? 
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I am not from Long Island, I'm in Schenectady County outside the city of Schenectady. I have two different tube benders and have done some bending before. It is definitely easier as you develop experience. But that 3/8ths line is a challenge.
For this particular car, an 89 Lesabre t type, the bends need to be near perfect. The original lines are laid side by side and there are five lines all within 1/4 inch of each other running through multiple brackets. The car has a 3/8th fuel supply and a 5/16th fuel return for the fuel injection. The local Buick dealer has these and they have that GM end on them. We got the 5/16 near perfect but kinked the middle of the 3/8th line. The nice thing though is the lines came with the gravel guards.
Anyway we have to re-do the 3/8th line and then tackle the 1/4 vent line and we are probably going to put in the new brake lines while we are there. Sure wish I had a lift for this.
Thanks again for the comments. I found the one about oiling the line interesting. I never did that before. Does this really help?
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The engine should be a 401 Cu In Nailhead engine. If the car is still original, the air cleaner should have the number 445 and the word Wildcat on it. Also it should be a medium shade of green.
Watch the frame rails closely in the area by the back tires. Look it over for rust or rotting of the frame. Know that this is fixable usually but may be expensive.
I don't know what anyone would pay for such a car, but I love em...
JD
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I think I can speak for some of us, we'd love to see the before and after shots... Before removal of 25 years of grime and dirt and how it looks polished...
Please post some.
Thanks
JD
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This is a perfect argument for allowing Modified Buicks into the BCA!!!
Sorry, I think that was another thread that I refuse to look at anymore.
John D
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Before bringing it in, check the terminals on the old regulator. Are they coroded? Or glazed over? hit them with a little fine sandpaper, See a big difference?
If so I'd consider pulling the wires out of the connector to the new regulator and cleaning them up, then check the light. Also sand the holes in the firewall where the regulator bolts are then re install the regulator. Those 70's cars are just doing that all the time. Cleaning the contacts is just good maintenance.
To get the wires out of the connector, get a small screwdriver, like an eyeglass one, and then holding the connector so it faces you, insert the blade of the driver into connector on the back side of the metal terminals. There is a tab there which you need to compress with the screwdriver, and then the wire will slip out of the connector. You can clean it up and then easily pry the tab back up and return the wire to the connector till it clicks into place.
Be sure to chart where the wires go or just do one at a time.
JD
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Hi all, Looking for some words of experience on bending some new fuel lines.
I heard that you can fill a new fuel line with soft sand ( play sand) and then make your bends. This is supposed to help prevent kinking of the lines in those tight 90 degree turns.
does anyone have experience with this?
John d
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Keep in mind that restoration means putting everything back the same way it was from the factory, so when you bend up new lines you'll want to be as close to original bends and routing as possible. Plus those lines were bent that way by the original engineers. Some bends don't look like they make any sense, until you try to put a line back in and suddenly find it is hitting the clutch pedal or exhaust pipe etc.
One more thing.
If you're really going for original period correct you'll find that the premade lines are all either too short or too long. If you buy the longer ones, there is another tool which makes the flare for the end of the lines. This will allow you to make your initial bends and then cut the line to make a perfect length new line.
The tool is naturally called a flaring tool, this is about $40.00, but absolutely needed. I don't know if NAPA would rent theirs but I have one you can borrow.
Also you'll need to know if the car has the double flared ends, or single flared ends. The same tool makes both, and later cars use double flares. The premade lines will all be double flares too.
Hey, someone more knowledgeable than me, did the 38 have double flared fittings, or should they be single flare?
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I know the car was there, in the judged class. I didn't hear if it got an award.
IT was a super car in real life.
JD
my 1938 special: the chronicle
in Buick - Post War
Posted
I think that is a double flare. The end of the line looks thick like it is rolled over, so I'm 99% sure that is what you have there.
As to the running problem, correctr me if I'm wrong, but you have left the car all summer on 5 gallons of gas ( or less)? Is so you probably have had some condensation buildup inside the gas tank. Given the high humidity and heat we had this summer, the probability of condensation with less than a half tank of gas is high. Of course when you start sucking water, you'll have intermittent firing in the cylinders.
I would recommend a product by STP for gas conditioning. I think it's called Fuel treatment and is usually sold in the dry gas section of walmart. It comes in a red bottle and in small print claims to be jet fuel. The best part of this is it is not alcohol, but a petroleum distilate base which is basically higher than normal octane gas. It should help to disapate any water in your system within seconds of starting the engine. Of course you'd want to put more than a half tank of gas in right away to prevent this problem again.
As to burning oil, I'd recommend a compression test. Your manual should have some information on this. If you get good readings I'd once again recommend valve guide seals. BUT DO NOT JUMP into this project without some much better advice. The last thing you'd want to do now is have a valve drop into the cylinder, because that would mean a lot of work...
JD