TheMoneyPit

I'd call it a cigar lighter - smoking stand

If the Peerless name were in block letter's it would be a common aftermarket sold thru auto suply magazines, most notably "Ford Owner". Those are jacks made by another Peerless - this one made by Buckeye is a different story.

I've had and sold an identical jack with a Cadillac script, and seen one with a brass tag for Pierce Arrow cars on the side plate, so I fully believe this is from the tool kit of a Peerless from sometime after the pat date and could have been supplied for many years thereafter.

Lets see, her smaller pieces were around 100 pounds... turned into dollars it would have been cheaper to buy another winged B for the Bentley. Granted, not as expensive as the "puss-in-boots" mascot on e-bay last week, but not your average J. C. Whitney junk either.

Terry - You and Sherman use that same line, only you have to add in that somewhere there is a fine line between "collection" and "obsession" which I have not yet found... Good thing AAA does not stand for Antique Automobiles Anonymous!

Talk to the Model T Ford vendors - that channel is available - on a T it was plated brass, not SS.

I'm not so good with non US emblems - I had Hotchkiss confused with Horch - after looking it up I have to agree with Hotchkiss. Sorry for that.

Is there a makers mark on the bottom? Your mascot looks very simmilar to one made by Legune (?sp) and may be marked. If so, the only way to know value for sure is to place it on e-bay and see where it ends. As far as little value for aftermarket mascots, I've seen them sell for far more money than some of the factory items - it is all a matter of quality and desire to own...

Horch?

I'd start there - then look at the plugs for fouling and then coils. T's are not big on power but it sounds like you have less than you should.

That would be a Model T Ford with a "Speedster" body - the body was an aftermarket item and there were many companies selling difering variations. The wheels are also aftermarket, or could have been something screwed over the wood to make them more aerodynamic. Guessing the car to be 1917-21, but this is as good as I can do from the picture.

How about AAA or Farmer's insurance? Common items on e-bay and usually cheaper than the re-cast aluminum ones. I have a few originals in my collection too, the prices had gone up so fast I don't have one on a car any more. At one time I had a porcelain "Pemex Travel Club" topper on my 15 T - I was literally hunted down at a show by a guy who wanted to buy it. The guy would not accept that no really meant NO and I took it off the car that night. No need to wake up in the morning and find it missing.

There is one in Ohio with a wanted ad in Hemmings - try getting in touch with the owner and seeing what he thinks...

GOOD DEAL! I'm gald one more three-leg monster is back on the road! As for the oil - there is an accessory oil sight gauge you put into the bottom hole that will allow you to see the level without turning the petcock - woth buying one. Both my 15 and 26 cars like to be about 1/4" under the top hole - if filled until it runs out there I'll have oil dripping out everywhere. Your fan may need new bushings installed - they are available thru the parts vendors - if worn they allow the hubs to become un-parrallel and you will slip the belt frequently - there is a guide you can buy but that will mask a problem not fix it.

The car is originally a 6 volt - a lot of people put in 8 volt batteries but they can over-charge enough to blow the 6V bulbs. The best money spent is to call one of the Model T parts suppliers and get a reprint of the Ford Service Manual - it will lead you thru all the finish adjustments and some troubleshooting. More help can be found on the MTFCA website forum - a lot more guys read the postings there than here - I check those first thing over my lunch hour and end here IF I get the chance.

I think that front fender that continues straight down was a Rickenbacker thing???

Lexington had headlamp brackets mounted to the radiator shell - I bought a mess of a radiator years ago for the emblem - sold the rest to a gent from Canada. One other interesting thing was that the high-low beam was some kind of vacuume set-up as there was a baffle in the back of what was left of the lamps. Nice Picture, thank you for sharing...

I have an aftermarket wrench for my Model T Ford transmission bands with The Pep-Boys logo - don't be so sure of yoursef that they had nothing to do with it... As far as the handle, something about it says Nash - but I'm not sure...

I did not have any leaks and did not seal the tank either - if/when you rebuild the sediment bulb there is a product that is a gasoline proof grease I used to lubricate it which has held up for several touring seasons. I have a 26 Fordor which is the only 26-7 CAR body style with the round tank still under the seat instead of in the cowling. Of cours trucks & bare chassis also came with the round tanks... Adding oil to your gas will not really help or hurt - it may foul the plugs a little faster and if you are smoking it will be hard to tell if from the oil in the gas or bad rings.

The radiator shop will know what to do, and if they do tanks may even be able to e-coat the inside with something that will not be eaten by the ethanol based fuels but still capture the rust that flushing does not always get. I also hide a fuel filter in-line hidden in a frame rail (pre 26 cars) - the bigger the better due to the gravity feed. If you change the fuel line use steel not copper. Copper will work-harden with the vibration and fatige over time creating a potential for fires under the car.

Bat & Mag positions are easilly confused at first - try the key one way and listen for the buzzing of all four coils - if nothing try the other way - if the car is equiped with a distributor the bets are off - you will get no buzz...

If the stamping of the key number on the tumbler starts with ST-#### it is from early 20's Studebaker - my 24 Special 6 had a very similar unit and IO'm nearly certain that was it...

Looking into the background there are many more jems in those woods.. Keep the pix coming!

From a Willys Overland club website, however they show hubcaps which say Falcon on them and no bird.

Looks like an erly aftermarket electronic ignition misssing the rotor assembly.