Jump to content

edinmass

Members
  • Content Count

    8,961
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    189

Posts posted by edinmass

  1. Yes I drive through maryland , but I do not leave the federal highway system, thus I am exempt from the state rules as long as I do not exit the highway. Read the federal dot rules, thay are clear you do NOT need a dot number, medical card, or cdl, nor commercial plates. You must be legal in your state. The federal law trumps the state regs. That doesn't mean that you won't get a hassle, but I have a copy of the law in the trailer with the registration.

  2. I have towed all over the USA. Good equipment is cheap. Always go with the best you can afford. If you haul the big iron, you need to go with the best, or your life is in danger, and it's very easy to wreck you car. I have been suffering LOTS of tire failure the last two years. I used engineering and a few bucks to solve the problem. It just arrived yesterday. This rig tows like a dream with the triple wide spread set up. My 2000 F 350 power stroke I bought new has only 80 k on the clock. The trailer is 36 foot V nose. It is BIG! Has an extra foot of height. I wish I bought this 5 years ago!

    post-31625-143143059939_thumb.jpg

    post-31625-143143059942_thumb.jpg

    post-31625-143143059944_thumb.jpg

  3. Well there is the factory fuel filter, so why would you need another one. Also the bowl catches water and any rust particles that may come through the tank. There were two designs of fuel systems in 1931. Early and late, what's your cars engine number? Do you know what system you have? Was the recall performed when new? Are you running the pump? They should not be run if you have the upgraded system. My Caddy's ran more than 30 k miles on the tanks with no issues. LONG hill pulls could cause you to tun dry, I just pulled off to the side of the road to refill the tank. I only found three hills anywhere that made my tank run dry so it wasn't much of a bother.

  4. I find it quite interesting when speaking to people in the hobby that dealers, auction houses, and collectors are all having a hard time locating good cars. Truth is that 98 percent of what is out there has moderate or severe condition, running problems, or such poor provenance that they are just a bottomless pit of time and resources. Seems like everyone wants to make a killing on their car. Fact is I have owned some wonderful world class cars, lost tones of money on some, made a bundle on a few, and broke even on the rest. I don't know if I am up or down overall. I would like to think I am at even money across the board, but my best guess is I am down in the mid six figures. I do know I have more fun than almost anybody I know, and when they carry me to my final resting place a few will comment that I sure got to own, fix, judge, drive, restore, and wreck a great number of toys. I don't expect to ever cash out all my cars and empty my garage. I'll die with a bunch of toys that were restored well, driven hard, and worn out for the next caretaker. It is my intention to have more enjoyment out of this hobby than anyone else I know of. It will be time and money well spent. And it's the only way to get a good return on your investment. Drive and enjoy your cars, forget about the money..........you can't take it with you. Find a car you like and can afford..........drive it, show it, hide it in your garage and polish it till the paints thin. What ever you enjoy. Life is short and were are not on this earth for very long. Enjoy your work, family, and leisure time. You have less time than you realize. Ed. These profound thoughts are brought to you by a generation X'er. (Yes, I am still in my forties. I started in this hobby very young.)

  5. Most buildings related to farming are zoning exempt by law. Usually you need five or more acres of land to qualify. In my home town your garage and outbuildings can't be larger than 50 percent if the house footprint. Make yourself a working farm, and then you can have a 8000 square foot chicken coop with a bathroom and lift. The neighbors won't complain about your cars if the have a chance of having 15 thousand chickens as a choice. Storm water usually requires a certain amount of land disturbance before it kicks in 22000 square feet is the norm. Restorer 32 is correct, due dilligance with an engineer is your best choice. Use a local from the same town, they know the people in town hall and can make thing go much easier. If you need a special permit or variance things get very difficult.

  6. I'll confess to be the driver behind the wheel of the 32 Packard that was the subject of this thread. While interstate driving is not a joy that I look forward to, it's great to have a stock pre war car that can handle all road contitions if necessary. The higher speeds on the big highways are not too difficult to deal with, it's the rush hour traffic that is most worrysome. I find short drives at 70 mph or so are a great way to prove the cars cooling system as well as the fuel delivery and ignition systems. If a car will run down the interstate at modern speeds for 30 miles with no issues, I declare the car bullet proof and just drive it from then on. I pride myself on cars that run well, as new and are so reliable that I don't carry a single tool. It takes a while to get the car to where you can depend on it and no longer worry about break down issues, but once it is properly sorted, there is nothing like driving a stock pre war CCCA Classic car. The Packard has a high speed rear in it, almost to long for my taste. It makes seconed gear useful while driving in town, otherwise it is the only modification the car has from new. Look for the car at Pebble Beach in 2017,as we have just started to do a total restoration to fix the 1980's restoration. The car was suffering from mechinical short cuts and some paint failure. But even then, it's a true American masterpiece of design and engineering.

    post-31625-14314302762_thumb.jpg

  7. The 600/650 18 tire size was popular for mid size cars in 31/32. 1930 cars used a 700 or a 750 18 on the bis series cars, most mid size were still running a 650-19. 1932 only Cadillac,Pierce,Stutz, and Linclon ran the big 18 inch tire making them very expensive. My 32 coupe had the 600/650-18 tires on it and they looked very small and incorrect. They are half the cost of the correct size, and often that is why the cars have under size tires on them. With a wheel base of 130 inches or more you need to run the bigger tires.

  8. Just checked the link, that is a bias ply tire. It would be under size for the Reo. That's a Buick size tire. The Reo should run a 700 at the small end, 750 would be what I would use.

  9. The radials run about 500 each. They are heavy and feel more like a modern 17.5 truck tire. I have seen bias tires like this also, but they were all on European sports cars. From what I remember the tires handled well but seemed to wear very fast.

  10. The change as listed above is not correct. About 10 years ago the CCCA went back to a floating date. Example, any car that had an identical chassis in 25 could go back to its earlier starting date. Example, Pierce arrow was covered from 1921, as was Springfield Rolls Royce. Locomobile 48 chassis went back to 1916. A few other obscure makes also qualified. McFarlin, Cunningham, ext. All very small production number cars. now they are going after a few oddball machines with very low numbers. Crane-Simplex, the v-8 Cadillacs, twin six packard(not the six) ext. Most of the people who own these cars are already members of the CCCA, it won't improve membership. My only concern is they let is some lesser makes. When they tried to add later cars there was a revolt in the club that threatened it's exsistance. I am sure we won't see that again. Problem is today everybody must "fell good and fit in- and try to be all inclusive." That is not what the club was about. The current board members weren't around when the founders were making the bylaws. They think they know what a classic is........but almost none of them do. Ed Minnie

  11. AJ, I was just busting your chops. I never like to run radials on the CCCA era cars. Rim failure is the main reason. They also look a bit off on most of the cars. I just removed a new set of radials from a Pierce, and installed the Firestone 750-17 WW on the car.

  12. Just one car? Don't think I could do it. I don't have to drive my cars to enjoy them. Sometimes when I can't sleep, I walk over to the garage door and turn on the light. I go back to bed with a smile on my face thinking how lucky I am to live in the best country in the world, and I am able to manage to have a few toys that make my life more enjoyable. The cars are fun, the people in the hobby are great. My life has been enriched so much by this hobby that I would be a different person if I hadn't been involved in it. I have made friends all over the world thanks to the many car clubs I belong to. With google translator I can now talk to people all over the world and share the hobby across the language barrier. After more than 40 years, I enjoy the people and the hobby more than ever before. And even better yet, gas is almost half the cost it was last year...... the V-12 will get another two thousand miles on it this year! Ed.

  13. I think I would only drive a car at highway speeds if it had a pressure oil system. I don't mind driving hard, but I don't like to spin my engine faster than two thirds of maximum rpm. At the cost of parts and labor on the early big cars you can dig a hole from 20 to 50 grand in less than a few seconds. And it's possible to push 100k on a multi cylinder exotic with a hole in the block.

    Drive it like you stole it! :cool: Here is the car in the video from the first post.

    post-31625-143142998501_thumb.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...