edinmass
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Posts posted by edinmass
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Grill guard is unique, and I agree with trying it out for a while……..as to the fog lights………I’m certain my past comments and known to most. Fortunately, unbolting items is fairly simple compared to adding them. Packard always had great lines on their pre war stuff………it’s hard to improve them by adding accessories. How about a driving report?
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Walked through the RM cars today……nice bunch of used cars, and a fair amount of decent heavy iron. We will test drive a few of the big boy toys tomorrow.
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Bought a tag from them last October. Hard to get ahold of him.
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After 40 years…….and if you have not had any losses, maybe it’s time to self insure and just buy liability?
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1 hour ago, sbergharris said:
You didn't post pictures of the cigarette butts. LOL😄
I will when I get back from Pebble and San Morino.-
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It will kill everything. I think to kill powder post beetles you would have to bag the car. Be careful for fire/over heat damage from the shop vac. I usually stand by and attend to other things and let it fly for 45 minutes. I usually do this treatment three times. Works great. Basically your using the vac to blow air over the moth balls, and the exhaust of the machine works as the fumigation end. Be careful as it will literally knock you over and make you sick.
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George……the physical area has been altered permanently into car display, and I’m certain it won’t go back. Where the contents went I have no clue, and Lori who worked there for decades was on the guest welcome counter. To be honest, I don’t think she likes the change and thus I didn’t inquire for more information.
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Henry Ford had an entire soy car body built and driving down the road in 1937. It wasn’t practical and it didn’t hold up. A lot of things came out of the experiments. Somewhere there is a photo of him swinging a sledgehammer at a body panel. It’s probably the 1941 car.
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PS- you could cut out a ten inch piece and stitch it in, then send the block to Locktite to be sealed……and it MIGHT work and hold for twenty years if your lucky. Other choice is to dip it in acid, and solder it closed……..and put a copper patch over it with pins. No easy answer on this one. Even unlimited money may be a temporary repair unless a different block is found.
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It’s not just that area. Looks like a California hard water rot hole. Find an east coast block. Many people get fooled into getting a western block…….and they tend to be much worse as no one seems to have run anti freeze.
As soon as heat is applied that hole is going to get five times larger…….
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Breakfast on the bay of Monterey…………..life is good! 👍
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Forum member 35packard…….and his 1934. I’ll plead guilty to helping him acquire it.
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Road trip with forum friends…….
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Salon is reservations only. Ten dollars. Big building is free.
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1 hour ago, Grimy said:
Ed, watch your Crown Royal consumption! No, Pierce engines 1913-1928 are NOT appropriate--they're all 6-cylinder. And Pierce never used an F-head! T-heads 1918-1928. But I'd go for a 385 cid engine 1930-1932 which uses the same block, but with different crank and rods, of course. 366 cid = 3.5 x 4.75; 385 cid = 3.5 x 5.0. Only those who commit engine number prefixes to memory will be able to tell the difference between 366 and 385. Bear in find that Pierce was very conservative with compression ratios: my 1930 366 has 5.01 and my 1934 385 has 5.5; PAS advice from a couple of original P-A engineers 50 years ago to owners was to NOT shave the heads to increase the compression ratio.
George. The 3&1 were transposed.-
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Looks like some sort of tach drive off a lathe or piece of farm equipment, could also be used as a gear reduction cable drive for some other item on the car……….pull it off, take it apart, and post photos…….then a much more definitive answer can be given. Popping in almost any 1931-1938 Pierce engine would be fine. There are only a few minor differences and only experts could tell. Bring that particular engine back from the dead is possible, but very expensive. Performance modifications to the engine are very unlikely……..the F head design has huge limitations…….but many home shop builds used them because of displacement. With a bit of effort a 385 big block Pierce engine can make 200 hp……..just add another 50k to the price of the rebuild. Thus figure 80 grand to build a modern hot rod engine that won’t tear itself apart. If your going to try and actually make the thing go down the road buying a barn find complete car is the way to go.
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The car uses the small Pierce distributor. Because it has timing gears it turns in a different direction and it has a different firing order from the other motors. Trying to run for carburetors on it is going to be difficult because whatever was on there I’m sure never ran right. It was massively over carbureted. That said a factory intake and exhaust manifold would be fairly expensive, along with the correct carburetor. Pistons, valves, and a few other parts are available. It’s a fairly simple engine with an expensive engine to rebuild. The nine mean bearing crank in the eight connecting rods in total will probably run $6000 for bearings. That doesn’t include the cam bearings, which are probably another two grand. Pistons with rings and wrist pins figure $350 a hole. I’m sure I have a distributor for it.
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I think the Hupp in green looks ok either way with the tire option………but the spot lights and trunk rack need to find the trash can. The Hupp guys seem to be very loyal to their brand. They drive their stuff more than many other smaller clubs, and seem to have above average attendance than one would expect. Most of them that I know are extremely elderly now…….and it doesn’t seem any younger people are stepping in or filling in the ranks. Interestingly……..I have never driven or worked on any Hupp………..and now I am going to make an effort to take a few for a spin.
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Works great…….been there, done that. Kills everything that walks, crawls, or flies.
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Go ahead……..👍
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In what can only be called sad, many of the signs on the cars at the museum were factually incorrect…….and off by a mile. I usually would catch one or two small errors over the years……..now it’s obvious that there is no one there with the background necessary to have basic knowledge of automobiles. They removed the library also. Overall the building and displays are better than they have been for ten years. I me the new collection manager. Nice guy, but his background is in music boxes and mechanical instruments. His tour was well done with a routine that was much more accurate than I expected……..with a few errors. It was obviously scripted by someone with great automotive knowledge. Everyone should visit this place every time they get to LA. They are still adding cars.-
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And then there was this early six……..1912.
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Only from outside the rope………..I got there during regular hours so I couldn’t get access………
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And let the games begin for Pebble…..2022.
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Pebble Beach 2022
in General Discussion
Posted