farnelle

Solved the front brake hose conundrum. The hoses that I got from the AC Delco parts distributor was the correct number, but the boxes were packed with the incorrect hoses. He ordered two more hoses the they were correct. Sorry for the worry wort posting.

I have the same problem with my 89. Got another radio and antenna wire from Jim and it made no difference. My 90 has almost the same poor AM reception, but better FM. Go figure? I put a 10 disc CD changer in the trunk and just listen to my favorites. Drove all the way from SC to PA a couple of weeks ago and did not have to change cartridges. Another benefit, no advertisements or small talk by pundants who know less than they think they know.

Thanks Padgett, as usual your information is greatly appreciated. Do you have any ideas about the front hoses. The replacement numbers are over 30" long and have a totally different mounting bracket. I can make the bracket work, but I am not sure what to do with almost three feet of hose in that wheel well. To me it is only asking for trouble. The alternative is to use the old hoses that look good (not cracked or worn) and put everything back together. New calipers, rotors and pads. I was worried mostly about the inside of the hose being soft and maybe restricting the fluid from going back up the system when the brakes are not applied.

I don't know what I would do without this site. Seems like no one around here knows much about Reatta. Trying to do the strut replacement and brake job on my 40,000 mile 90 Reatta. First I now know why they charge so much labor for struts. Fronts were not a problem, but I may end up with even grayer hair before I get the rears off. Seems like the only rust on the car is at the strut and brake parts. Had to cut the stupit torx screw off that secures the parking brake cable to the caliper. Does anyone know of any reason it cannot be replaced with a hex head bolt. It does not look like the hex head would interfere with anything. Also I am having a time getting the correct brake parts. I decided to replace the calipers, hoses and rotors since I saw evidence of dragging on two calipers. The part numbers for the original front hoses has been replaced by 18032366 and 18032365. The problem is those hoses are twice as long as the orignals and have an entirely different mounting bracket. Does anyone have any information on the correct hoses or how to deal with these. Also the AC Delco parts house here lists the same number for both rear calipers. It seems like there would have to be a left and right. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!!!!

Thanks a million guys. My AC Delco guy found it easily with the PN. The price is $94.45. Makes it not worth ordering from GMpartsdirect.com.

Does anyone have the part number for the brake accumulator? I called the ACDelco parts warehouse and they did not know what I am talking about. They asked me if there was another name for it and I did not know of any other name. If anyone has the part number handy I would appreciate it. The dealer here is hesitant about giving out part numbers???

Another question. Could you not leave the doors slightly ajar even with the battery connected? If my doors stay open for a few minutes while I am working on something after a while the interior lights go off. I figued this is normal since it does the same thing on all three Reattas.

May I add my ditto. This is really a great site. Hope to meet some of you guys at a Reatta meet someday. Maybe this year I can get to Plano. If I can ever get the last child out of college, I may retire to have more time for play. Merry Christmas to everyone and best wishes for the coming year. From someone who spent 28 years in the military and who has a son who is an Army doctor doing his residency, I also ask that you remember out country's bravest as they continue our war against terror. Hopefully if we keep the pressure on we may be able to avoid another 911 type incident. I hope we as a people never forget. As much as we all love our Reatta's they really seem unimportant in the big scheme of things. The Christmas season helps us to realize all that we have to be thankful for. God Bless each of you.

Padgett, I agree and was thinking thermostat also, but even with a bad stat, I can't fathom how it can vary 10 or more degrees in a minute or two. Wonder if it can be a bad sensor? I am pretty squeemish? about temps in the 220+ range even though I recently read on this forum that General Motors does see have a problem until 230 or so. I wonder if anyone knows the temp that would have to be reached before there is a warning light or screen engaged? Thanks guys.

Since my problem with the idle dropping off and the IAC cleaning procedure, I have been watching the gauge screen on my 89. Normally, I just run with the summary screen on. The other day while waiting in line at Wendy's behind a person who must have been getting 10 orders, I noticed the engine temp rising until it got to 228 just as I pulled off. It cooled down once I got on the road. When I got home I checked the coolant resevior and needed to add about 1/2 gallon. Since then I notice upon watching the screen that the temperature is constantly changing. For instance, while driving down the interstate this morning with outside temp being 29 degrees, the engine temp would rise to 192 then go back down to 179 then rise back up to 190 etc. I don't guess there is anything really wrong, but am interested in whether some of you guys with touchscreens have noticed the same thing. I really do not know how the engine temp can get cooler by ten degrees within 1 minute or two. Another thing I have noticed is that neither fan pusher or puller seems to be working, but again, the temperature has been fairly cool lately. It may not be getting hot enough for the pusher fan to come on. I tried turning the air conditioning down all the way to get the puller fan to come on, but don't know if that will acutate the fan when the outside air temp is cold Would be interesting in any information you guys might have. Maybe ...just go back to the summary screen and forget it unless I get a news flash on the screen telling me something is wrong.

Ok. I have cleaned the IAC and its electrical connection. I put it back together and took a test drive. Engine stalled at the very first stop sign a little over a mile from the house. Stalled several other times before I got home. The next day I drove it to work and it was fine. Idle between 625 and 750 which may be a little low, but no stalling. Could this intermittent problem still be a bad IAC. I have no codes. Anyone got any ideas. Thanks

Has anyone had trouble over the past couple of days getting on to Ebay? My office computer is pretty fast, but I have had a terrible time getting ebay to load before it times out. Once the site is loaded, I cannot get on to my Ebay or do a search before it times out. Just curious.

Thanks for the advice guys. One of my projects for this weekend. Looks like someone has already had it off because one bolt was missing. It is pretty dirty.

Back to the IAC advice. I finally had a chance to remove the IAC and thought I would attempt cleaning before considering a new one. Both Ross and Padgett said cleaning the pintle was suggested as well as cleaning the hole in the maniford where it seats. I asked my mechanic for advice, and as usual, he says it won't help to clean it. It may not, but it surely won't hurt. If either of you guys see this, could you please answer a question or two? First, do you merely spray cleaner into the hole in the manifold, or is there more than that to it? Also, is the pintle the stem of the valve body that has a spring around it? Here again do you just spray the valve and clean with a toothbrush and is there any way to damage the valve in the cleaning process? Thanks, this is really a great forum. I rely on the information which generally seems better than I get from my GM trained mechanic.

I've had really good luck with Sumatoma tires. I have run both the R and T rated and like both equally. Presently running the Sumatoma touring tires on my 89 Reatta and Sumatoma 215 60R 16 H rated tires on both 90 models that have Caddilac wheels. They all run quiet and have good wet weather traction.

Thanks Padgett.

How about 7. gas filler cover release in glove box 8. no headlight door lock out in the 90 and 91 models 9. Trox screws on top of rear shocks

Thanks so much for each of your responses. I guess I'll go with the audiance and check the IAC. I'll check my shop manual when I get home tonight, but since I am kind of lazy, I guess it does not hurt to ask if one of you guys could tell me what I am looking for and how hard it is to get to. I'm still stuck in the 50's and 60's. My Healey and MG do not have such an animal. All they have is dual carbs to sync up. Thanks again, Ed

My 89 Reatta has recently begun some perplexing stalling. Most of the time it runs really well, however, every so often it goes through a stalling episode. When it happens, it will not hold idle. When you approach a stop, the idle drops back from 750 to 550 to 200 etc until it dies. It will start immediately and run as long as you hold your foot on the accelerator. It will even die while driving along if you have to take your foot from the accelerator like rounding a curve or decending a hill. I can keep it from dying just by keeping my foot on the accelerator and it runs fine at speed. Once she decides to quit pitching a fit, it may be weeks before I experience it again. Does anyone have any ideas? I have almost new wires, plugs, O2 sensor and fuel filter. Any ideas would be appreciated. It is always easier when something just quits running.

$81.17. I purchased them.

You might be away longer than that if you plan on coming back with Reatta parts!!! Have a nice vacation.

Bob, Not funny. I just received my new compressor and accumulator along with the bill for same. Too broke to buy a dash plaque.

Thanks a bunch.

DTerry can you explain your comments about locking the regulator? I am getting ready to change out the motor on my 90 convertible. It works like Padgett says, up a little, stop, wait, up a little until it finally gets to the top. Thanks to all you guys for the information. This is really a great site.

It may be a supply and demand issue. How many Reatta convertibles were made? How many Allantes? I'll bet parts for Allantes are also just as much a problem. I'd say that a $3,000 Reatta convertible in any condition may be hard to find. I'll also bet that you are not the only one looking for one. Good Luck. Actualy the Caddy is not that bad looking.