CBoz

Well, it *was* a beautiful truck -- you do great work, Rolf. Next time you sell a car, you need to put in a "slap-up" clause, which basically says if the 2nd owner modifies it in poor taste, you get to slap them upside the head. Or give me their address, and I'll be glad to do it for you if I'm in the area.

Hey Rolf - As someone who's car was a prime streedrodding candidate when I bought it, this is a good debate subject and a tough one at that. A couple of personal opinions, which we all know are like bellybuttons: 1. I'm much more sympathetic to mechanical upgrades that make the car safer and more reliable than I am to major sheet metal modifications. Not only can these not be reversed, but frankly, I have *yet* to see a chopped, frenched, etc. Zephyr that looks better than the originals! 2. I've seen streedrods built from basket cases as well as decent originals, so it goes both ways. If someone wants to save a junked out Ford 60 sedan, I say go for it! But a nice complete Zephyr or 32 coupe (if there are any left???) -- hands off, bud. 3. Streetrods will continue to become more popular as the older parts become harder to find and more expensive, and the performance gap grows. My stock '66 Mustang can still hold its own on the highway, but for how much longer? My '37? - forget it. 4. I was talking with Merv Adkins awhile back about a '37 coupe he had. He said it was a prime restoration candidate, but that he would almost certainly get more if he sold it to a streetrodder. So is Merv supposed to take a personal financial hit for the good of the hobby? 5. That said, the guy who sold me my car wasn't too interested in my calls until I told him I was restoring, not rodding. But there can't be too many guys like that.

Hey Rolf - Not sure what California, your grandmother, or Socialism have to do with eBay, either, but *you* brought 'em to the table, and so I played the hand I was dealt! Minnesota? You'll have to say hello sometime to my sister, who's gone native in the Minneapolis area. Seriously, eBay is like every other automotive swapmeet I've been to (I'm expecting my first LZOC one this Feb. to break the mold): 1. 90% junk and overpriced 2. 9% not junk, but still overpriced. 3. 1% worth looking at. But eBay does have advantages: 1. I can see the feedback ratings and I have *some* recourse, unlike a swapmeet. 2. I can do it from home, and not spend gas $ and entrance fees to get in. 3. Ebay goes 24-7, regardless of weather. The clock I bought (see the link in my earlier) message was a good deal for me, but no doubt for every one like that, there are a 100 or more not-so-good deals. But hey, if someone doesn't want to look at eBay, fine with me. That means fewer potential bidders.

David - Ya gotta understand, Rolf is from California, where the state government would like to 1) pass a law demanding that all screwdriver ends be dulled up so people couldn't cut themselves, and 2) put a $10 environmental disposal fee on each one . Maybe Rolf can dust off his grandmother's Socialist hat and lobby the state gov't. to close down Ebay, that bastion of "cheats and suckers." Me? I grew up years ago, and don't need my Momma or anyone else to tell me where I can or can't go to buy things. And to put to rest the rantings of the uninformed, you *can* get some good deals on ebay if you look hard enough: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...item=2451724899

I *knew* I'd get it out of you if I beat hard enough, Rolf! "All knowing professor"??? HAHAHA. Ask me about the time I poured Roundup rather than antifreeze in my wife's car.

Hey Rolf - First of all, I'm not picking a fight with *anyone*, but you need to *carefully* read what I asked in my earlier messages -- to wit, how much overlap is there between '38 undercarriage and '37 undercarriage parts. I didn't ask what the prefixes meant, etc. -- I can read these from the front of manuals as well as anyone. SHEESH, you're no better than my students! . Finally, with regard to the points, I see that I wasn't clear. Sorry about that. The owners I was referring to had more modern Continentals (61 & up), where the distributor is sitting there, big as life, right in front of them. I agree with you that the HV-12 distributors are a completely different story.

Hey Rolf - I know what the prefixes are (by the way, you forgot "B" ). Rather, I was curious as to how *much* overlap there was. But you're right, it's a trivial investment to pay the $20. With regard to the mechanical brakes, it seems to me (and I'll say up-front this is based only on reading about the procedure, not doing it!) that if one is willing to take the time and go back and make adjustments until its right, it *can* be done. The problem is, lots of people simply don't want to tinker with things anymore. And it's not just a generational thing -- I went to the LCOC meeting and was amazed how many owners, many who had owned their cars for *decades*, weren't familiar with the most routine maintenance tasks, such as changing points. Hmmmm....

Hey Rolf - Yes, it's the same person. But looking at these mechanical brakes, old-style synchronizer, etc., not sure she doesn't have the right idea With regard to my question, I guess I need to be clearer. If someone who has a manual were to quickly look and tell me there doesn't look like much overlap at all between the '37 and '38, then I could save the $20. If, on the other hand, there is a smattering of parts with 48, 78, H, and HB prefixes, it would be worth my while.

PS -- Hate to place an advertisement like this, but who knows who might need it. I also picked up a good '38 radiator at the same time. It was working fine when taken off the car less than a year ago. Offers? Interesting trades?

Hello - Here is a question for someone with a '38 chassis manual handy: Last summer, I picked up the entire undercarriage from a '38 coupe -- axles, spindles, hubs, torque tube, rear end, etc. I know the '38 shared some parts with my '37, but I don't know exactly which. Here is what I *do* know: 1. The '38 used a hypoid style differential, which is different from mine, so I can't share that. 2. The '38 has a 3-inch longer wheelbase, and the '38 front radius rod (that big, wishbone shaped thing with the ball on the end that attaches to each side of the front axle) is 3-inches longer than my '37, so I can't use it. Beyond that, are the remaining pieces interchangeable -- axles, backing plates, etc.? If they are, I can start restoring pieces from the '38 to put on my '37 without having to take the '37s undercarriage out.

"Brain-trusters"? You must be thinking of another forum, Rolf.

I'd say it was a series. Afterall, it was sold through Lincoln dealerships along with the K-models to start. Now contrast it to the 56-57 Continental, the Edsel, and Chrysler's Imperials, which were all set up as different makes altogether.

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Thanks Rolf and Ricko - I'm still going through a lot of information. I counted my gears, and I have a main drive / cluster gear combo of 16/28 in there right now, which is a standard Ford setup. I don't know whether I have the 4.33 or 4.44 rear-end, but not sure how much difference that would make in this case. Trying to keep straight in my mind the interactions to consider between the tranny gears and the rear-end. As a side note, the Columbia will drop the 4.33 and 4.44 down to 3.13 and 3.21, respectively -- a dramatic difference! PS Ricko - I read through the 1955 article you posted; good information. But you think I can still get all the parts for $40?

Phil - Personally, I think it's rather funny (and damn ironic) that any LCOC members would look down on the Zephyrs. Some CCCA members "kick" the Continentals, so some Continental owners "kick the Zephyr owners? So who do I kick?

Hello All - Just started the tranny rebuild, beginning with the tear-down last week. Original case with my serial number, so I'm excited! Seems to be a simple process, but you *do* need a press and the knowledge that the intermediate gear is held on with a key. When I get some time, I'll post some pics of the process to my website. But a couple of questions for folks familiar with these transmissions: 1. As I understand it, 1936-37 Zephyrs used the same gears as the 85 hp Fords. I never expected this to be a fast car and, in fact, have bought a Columbia rearend to keep revs down at higher speeds. But is there any noticeable advantage to me getting one of the later, Zephyr-specific setups? 2. In 1939, Lincolns got an improved synchronizer unit. Is this significantly better than the stock one for a 1937? Would I have to swap out other components to use it? Opinions? 3. Finally, the main drive and intermediate gears look just fine, as well as the corresponding countershaft gears (probably because they're always meshed). BUT the low / reverse sliding gear is pretty worn (one or two teeth noticeably chipped) and the corresponding reverse idler and countershaft gear show *some* wear, but not much. Would I be ok replacing just the low / reverse sliding gear, or should I also replace anything it "touches" -- the countershaft gear assembly and the reverse idler gear? All opinions appreciated.

Jim - On this page is a picture of one version of the heater, in case you didn't have it. It's the version with the stove mounted flat underneath. http://home.mindspring.com/~bozarth/id4.html I've got some pieces from a '38 system (piping and blower motor), but not the stove that George talked about. I've also been trying to find a '37 system with no luck. Seems to be pretty scarce, like the air cleaners.

I was reading the string below about '37 parts, and it reminded me of an earlier post I made. So I'll push the point again: I, for one, am excited that George Trickett has started to check this site, if for no other reason than to make sure novices like me don't go on a snipe hunt for the elusive '37 Zephyr master brake cylinder. But I'd like to see even more of the established folks and vendors here as well. Imagine this: Rather than meeting twice or three times a year, we could "meet" <span style="font-weight: bold">every</span> night, exchanging advice, hunting down parts,etc. It works for other marques, why not us?

Ace - Congratulations on a car that "makes a joyful noise"! Phil - I don't know if this is of any interest at all to you, but when I restored my Mustang, I had the original radio refitted with modern technology so I now have AM/FM. It looks stock and uses the same buttons and dial. The website of the person I used is http://taymanelectrical.com/ At one time, this person repaired older radios, but I think he found it was more profitable (and probably a whole lot less aggravation) to stick with conversions.

Hey Rolf - Ebay's like any other marketplace. I've seen some incredibly stupid auctions (like the guy who paid $250 for NOS reverse light gaskets for a Mustang, a $15 part at best), but I've also picked up some extremely nice deals as well. You just have to know what you are looking for and expect only 1 out of 50 auctions to be of any interest. Let's put it this way: With ebay, I don't have to travel to Pennsylvania [color:\\"blue\\"]in the dead of winter or to the other side of the country, or play telephone tag with anyone, to look for Zephyr parts .

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6306&item=2448431145 Too bad so many panels banged up, otherwise it might make a good salvage vehicle. But if someone thinks they can do something with it, go for it! Personally, I wouldn't touch it with the proverbial 10-foot pole.

Oh no, Shawn! What will PH do if he finds out you're thinking of going over to the dark side? I can hear him now: "...As ANY student of what we call "true" Classics can tell you, the Lincoln Continentals were VASTLY inferior to those beautiful, yes even "arrogant", V-12 and V-16 brutes put out by Packard and Cadillac. Why, I remember when we were MOCKED for buying them and you could pick up a formal sedan for $25, a cabriolet for a few dollars more ..." blah blah blah Geez, I kind of miss him!

It's a good thing you caught it now instead of ruining something later. Oh geez, I don't know how many of those types of situations I've actually lucked out on -- something that might have gone *really* bad if I didn't catch it. That's why we read the directions twice, torque once, right? (Except, of course, for the time my wife put a gallon of Roundup on my bench. Looked just like the anti-freeze container, and it wasn't until I was pouring, looked down, and saw a whitish liquid, I said "Hmmmm!" and stopped. Never caused any problems though, and absolutely no weeds of any kind in the engine bay!)

If it's that heavily modified, I'd say all bets are off as to what was in it. But I can't imagine a race car with an OD?

Good grief, Rolf, where'd you get the idea I didn't think well of you??? If I ever gave you that impression, I assure you it was certainly unintentional. (Now Dale -- that's another story ... ) With regard to the reliability (or lack thereof) of the HV-12, I guess my response to people is, if reliability is what turns you on, buy a Honda and be done with it. We're into these cars for something else.