CBoz

JWalker - I think I do have a set of 06 waterpumps, but I'll need to check. Came with my car, but I need '37 dated ones.

Ok, I'll ask ... what did you do with the original drivetrain parts?

There is a part number listed in my manuals, but no picture. I'd just go ahead and cut out some small, thin black rubber ones and you should be fine.

Regarding the "subtle" modifications to the body, I'll be interested to see what these budding Gregories have in mind.

Bill -- You're right, I actually did end up getting parts from two other folks, Joblot being one: http://www.joblotauto.com/homepage.jsp And the other being Early Ford V8 sales: http://www.earlyford.com/ I spent more time on the phone with Joblot, and they knew what they were doing. In addition, for the parts I was getting, both were cheaper than the bigger Ford parts suppliers. That said, George Trickett did sell me a correct, cad-plated front bearing retainer for $15 -- cheaper than anyone else had.

Well, finally got the time to put the tranny back together. It's sitting on the bench with oil in it right now; that way, I can turn it every once in awhile and test for leaks. Thoughts on the matter: 1. Pretty easy, but you really need a partner and a press to make it a go. 2. Parts are getting scarce. I was pretty disappointed with the parts I got from MACs -- the bearings were sealed bearings without snap rings, which are incorrect for this application, and the shafts were too loose and too short. Fortunately, some of the smaller Ford parts specialists had what I needed. But be aware -- some of the common replacement parts, like the slider gear and the synchronizer hub, are getting pretty pricey. 3. The only headscratcher was taking off the second gear. Unless you know there's a key holding it in place, you will wonder how the heck it comes apart. Ask me if you get to that point 4. My friend who was helping me and I were really impressed with the relative simplicity of these units, and the fact they look built to last. I really didn't need to replace any of the gears, but did the slider and reverse idler while I was in there. 5. If you have a front bearing retainer that doesn't have an oil seal ('37s and before), get one of the later ones. It'll keep the oil off your clutchplate. Loads of fun, some scratched knuckles, but at least I understand how it works now.

Mike - Rolf's advice sounds spot on. Out of curiosity, I looked through my Mustang shop manual for torque limits on similar arrangements where there is a rubber bushing that has to tightened down. If I *had* to put a torque value on what you are doing, I'd say around 15 ft. lb.

Ok, step right up folks and buy the clock that features the car we all know and love: The Lincoln Zephyer...uh, Zepher ....oh, never mind. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10076&item=2463911107

Hello Folks - Well, I've finally been able to gather all the parts for my tranny rebuild. Basically, same as a Ford, and as far as I can tell, has never been rebuilt (it has '37 dated bearings and the car's VIN stamped on the case). One of the things I noticed is that in the 1937 chassis manual, the exploded drawing of the tranny doesn't show any oil seal between the front bearing retainer and front bearing, but the part *is* listed. In the 1938 Chassis manual, the oil seal shows up in the picture and listing. I purchased an oil seal, and found to my surprise it was too large to fit in the front bearing retainer. "What gives?", I thought. Well, on closer inspection, I noticed my front bearing retainer has a spiral machined into the inner shaft. When the engine is going, it appears that this shaft will spin "toward" the tranny. This is a guess, but it seems that this may be to "throw" any oil that leaks by back toward the tranny -- an early (and evidently unsuccessful) way to prevent leaks. Any other ideas?

Rolf - I think I have a spare wheel. Just the wheel or the wheel and tire? Lemme know. Thanks.

Hey Phil - Before you make a final decision, call Merv Adkins. He might have something you're interested in. Absolutely nothing wrong with the sedans (and you can get a whole lot more car for your money), but you don't want to be saying "should have..." everytime you look at your car.

Looking at my body manual for '36-'37, the coupes and sedans shared pretty much everything except the obvious pieces -- doors and door glass; rear glass, decklid, and back body pieces. From the front clip forward they were the same. All front sheet metal, skirts, fender skirts, and running boards were identical. There's a very nice '37 sedan for auction right now on Ebay; if you like both styles equally well, by all means go for a sedan -- you can get a lot more car for your money.

Hello Ace - Basically, it looks like you can use Ford rear shocks if your car was made before 11/11/36. Some of the information makes me think that you *might* be able to use later style shocks ("86H") on the front as well, but you'd need to talk to an expert on that. Right front body and arm: H-18045-B up to motor no. 19000, or HB-18045 Left front " " ": H-18046-B up to motor no. 19000, or HB-18046 Right back " " ": HB-18080 *or* 68-18080 for cars made before 11/11/36 Left back " " ": HB-18081 *or* 68-18080 for cars made before 11/11/36

Ace - I have some with the '38 undercarriage I got, but they are not the same part numbers as the '37 (YES, ROLF -- I GOT THE CHASSIS MANUAL -- see attached pic for proof! ). If you have trouble lining up cores, I'll take a closer look.

Hey Rolf - Thanks for the info. Yup, that coupe I took pictures of is stunning. I hope mine looks half as good when I'm done. My "problem" is that I picked up an air cleaner purported to be for a '37, but it doesn't look exactly like the one in the pics, nor does it have a part number (which is typical). However, two experts felt it was, but at least one other expert had doubts. So when I get a chance, I'll post a pic and let the forum folks tell me what they think. Regardless, it's not like I'll be in a show lined up next to 20 other '37 Zephyrs, all of us comparing our air cleaners!

Hey Bill - Good to see you at the meet! With regard to the air cleaner question, the one I have looks different than this one: http://home.mindspring.com/~bozarth/id4.html But it's also much bigger than the standard Ford, so who knows? I might ask Roy Thorson what he thinks.

Now don't go all shy on us, Rolf! Must be *really* far gone to be past restoring. Let us know when you get pics, and if you can get the VIN too, that would be good for tracing down its history.

Hey, don't "drag" me into your starter probs! I have my trusty '37 chassis manual, but when I get the '38 one, I'll let you **ALL** know.

Hello Pete - I understand your feelings exactly. I like open cars, but the lines of the coupe are just too gorgeous to pass up. Let us know how things go, and post some pics when you get a chance.

No question, Dave, it's a matter of degree. And sometimes those modifications are simply necessary. Here's a great example for a *home* -- Jefferson's Monticello has central AC. Fact is, it's the only way they can preserve it given the humidity and crowds that come through it. But that's different than putting in a wetbar and a jacuzzi off of TJ's bedroom. Oh, and regarding your weather -- SLAP!

Hey Dave - No doubt that modern technology offers all of those benefits and more. But if those were the only considerations, we'd all be much better off buying new cars and saving our money. Rather, it seems to me that there are two main reasons people like *older* cars: 1) Their looks 2) The history they represent, including the original technology If one's interest is predominantly the looks, then I can see why it makes no sense to keep the car original. But there are still those of us who are as much into the history of the old cars as the aesthetics. Personally, I'd rather dig out a hangnail with a screwdriver than listen to someone talk about their blown Chevy 350 crate engine that makes 600 hp, etc. But show me an original set of "Zephyr" distributor condensors, or the original overspray on the undercarriage, and I'm all abuzz. No logical reason, it's just the way I'm wired.

And if there were any restorable coupes still out there, we can kiss 'em goodbye now. Oh well, the $ signs always win out. Don't get me wrong. It's not that I can't appreciate rods, but for every outstanding one like this, there will be 50 meatball jobs to follow as everyone tries to jump on the bandwagon. And pretty soon ... well, when was the last time you saw an unmolested '32 Ford coupe or roadster for sale?

Hey Ace & Rolf - My understanding is that the '38s had a 3-inch longer wheelbase, but not a wider one (didn't we already determine somewhere that that '38s and '37s shared the same front axle?). The '38 radius I have is 3 inches longer than my '37s, which appears to be where Ford made up the difference. When I get a chance, I'll measure just to be sure. Or we can wait until Ace starts screaming

Hello Ace and Rolf - I'm doing the same thing Ace is. After talking with George Trickett and confirming with a Columbia parts manual (yes, Rolf, I ponied up the money for the manuals as you have rightly suggested!), the Columbia, from the pumpkin to the right rear passenger wheel, is essentially the same for the '37 & '38, except of course for the speedo cable routing. It's, in effect, a bolt-on. PS -- I briefly thought about putting the entire rear axle from the '38 donor in my car and not removing the Columbia from it, but as you know, the driveshaft would have sat too low since it enters lower in the '38-'48 hypoid styles.

George Trickett sells a version of what you're looking for. His contact information is under the "Sources" part of the site, and his email is zephyr@shoreham.net