rocketraider

Anybody else on the Kwik Kwiz? If not, answer tomorrow night. And no Art, for once they weren't getting sued! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Bought 5 gallons of 110 octane Union 76 racing gas for my Starfire last night at $4.00/gallon. Station also has 100 octane unleaded racing gas at the same price, so I usually treat the Starfire and Toronado to the real leaded stuff and they do love it. Even the Ninety Eight likes a dose of 100 octane once in a while. The Hurst will run happily on 89 octane and I don't see the difference running 93 octane in it that I do running 100+ in the others. The way gas is going, it may soon be as cheap to use the good stuff as rotgut pump gas.

The function will be the same, but I think 1961 cars had the smaller phototube. Might also be a little difference in amplifier mounting. My 59 shop manual shows it's mounted behind the left hand kickpanel and has access holes for the dim and hold screws drilled in the door jamb and covered with snap-in metal plugs. I know that 62 and later Olds mounted them behind the RH side of the dash. Kwik Kwiz- does anyone know why Olds finally discontinued the automatic dimmer after 1970? It's worth noting that it was strictly dealer installed 67-70.

You could get them with both 2- and 3-speed automatics in 1969. 2-speed Jetaway consoles were P-R-N-D-L; TurboHydraMatics had the S position. Yours is for a 3-speed THM transmission. Double-check the detent plate on the shifter to see how many detent notches it has. That will tell you for sure if it is a 2-speed or 3-speed shifter.

Nope- not old ladies, just a bunch of folks who loved Oldsmobiles enough to get involved in running the club dedicated to them. And then got slammed for their trouble by people who wouldn't lift a finger except when it came time to [censored]. And the less they did, the louder they bitched. And yes, for the most part, I have left it behind and now I enjoy my cars without all the politics and personalities <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />. Got Rocket?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">1965 Olds 442 Holiday Coupe Targe Red/White interior Muncie 4-spd with center console and tach (it MAY be an M21) Original 400 engine with an 850 Holley (he has the original carb in a box) Dealer installed 4:11 posi rear end Power drum brakes Chrome wheel option Original miles unknown, but the engine was never rebuilt What do you guys think? Thanks! </div></div> If it's the chrome wheel option I'm thinking of, it's pretty rare. Is it like a Magnum 500/Super Stock I or is it the <span style="font-weight: bold">chrome reverse type?</span> You've got the perfect 65 car- red/white/4-speed, and all of the hard to find stuff. I say go for it, and then post us some pics.

Regular ranges from $1.47 to $1.54 this morning. Citgo is currently the highest price here and is always the first to raise. The other name brands are 5-7 cents cheaper per gallon. Sheetz and Hess are running 10 cents cheaper than the names. And for whatever unexplained reason, I have found that me Custom Cruiser picks up 2 mpg on Sheetz under same driving conditions?

I don't see any DeVille scripts on the Cadillac so I'll say it is a Series 62. I believe DeVilles also had longer tail ends. I know Caddy offered long and short deck versions of the hardtop sedans in 61 and 62.

If it's like my 64 Starfires, it's a standard 3-hole flange bolt pattern. I think you should be able to make one from 1/8" sheet steel. Most exhaust shops will have the gasket on the shelf.

Re-reading my original reply, I see where I have confused you. The Cutlass axle will not bolt into a Delta 88 drum-to-drum. It's the gearset and carrier section that is the same between Cutlass and 2-barrel Delta. You still need to measure the punkin to see which rear end you have. Then you can narrow your options. If you're looking to replace it drum-to-drum, you should be able to use any 71-76 GM big car axle except one from a wagon. The Chevy might have the light duty axle. The C-body cars (98, Electra, Caddy) will have big brakes.

Thanks for all the gorgeous pics, Brian. I've never seen a 61 Buick in that shade of red before. Olds called it Garnet Mist and Pontiac was Marimba Red. Buick? Was the Fawn Mist 61 Olds out of New Jersey? If so, I saw it at Fall Charlotte and was mighty impressed. You rarely see them in any condition. And a 61 Caddy is also a favorite car. My next carp as always- WHY can't they build cars like that now?! I keep forgetting- they'd cost $60,000.

And once again, the forum is doing what is was designed to do- help keep another old car on the road and running sweet! Dderal, have you contacted Eastern Mass GMO or New England Olds Clubs? Both are based in Massachusetts.

Other than the Slim Jim these cars weren't bad mechanically. 394 in general seem to have valve guide problems, but that's usually due to the knurling wearing down. I don't think this is a $5500 car judging by the amount of trim it's missing, and it needs paint. 61 stuff isn't easy to find either as it's one of the forgotten Oldsmobiles. But boy what lookers- you think this one is cool, ever seen a 61 Ninety Eight sport coupe? They had an angled C-post and were really tough looking cars.

Was this a local or nationwide contest? If it was national, contact Pepsico and see what they can tell you about it. Dodge Division might have some records too. If it was local, good luck.

If you hear clicking in both up and down odds are the relay is good. This could be as simple as dirty switch contacts, and the switches can be taken apart and cleaned. Aggravating, but what's the odds of finding one NOS or even good used? You can also try disconnecting the drive cables at the top actuators (top corners of the rear seat) and see if the motor runs with no top load on it.

63-64 DE manifold will work. I see vacuum motors on e-bay fairly often. Tell me which one you need and I'll look up the part #.

Olds Club handles this issue with a judging restriction- "If a non-Olds engine is installed it must be a factory installation". That tends to keep the Chevy-powered street machines at bay, though the post-70s cars often had them factory installed. Most of us can fathom no reason to install one in the first place! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I can do it, but you can delete your own posts by selecting the "Edit" button at top right of your post. Scroll down and you'll see a button "Delete this post". Then it will ask are you sure? Click yes button and it's done. Let me know if you need help.

Another rarity- Chris, can you enlighten folks on the GS340? There's still one here, rough. The other one got traded for a Camaro at one of the Charlotte AutoFairs a couple years back. Talked with the kid who owned it just last night.

MasterWrench, the best I can do is mail you a photocopy of the 1962 and 63 shop manual stuff. I need to get me a scanner and learn how to put stuff like that on here. PM me with your snail-mail and I'll send you what I have. 185 hp with 4-barrel carb, 215 hp with turbo. It's the same little aluminum block V8 that Rover used forever after they bought the tooling from Buick Division in the mid 60s. I sometimes think that the late 50s-early 60s were truly GM's engineering salad days. We haven't seen the likes of it since.

My Delco carb book shows 7024054 as 1964 330 cid automatic transmission. Since all 1964 442 were four-speeds, this is not a #s matching 442 carb though it would probably work. The synchromesh carb # is 4055. If it's NOS it ought to be worth a few hundred. Jobber remans go for $175-200, so you could ask a few dollars more for a Delco-Rochester factory rebuilt.

Jerry, I found this link awhile back. www.1aauto.com . You might check Fusick or Ames too as I've found that sometimes Chebby stuff, even though it's for the same series car, is just a bit different than the other Divisions.

Scott- don't leave just yet. ToroGuy- there's nothing secret about what happened. I was on the OCA board when it all went down, and I'm frankly tired of hearing about it and discussing it. It was all we talked about for three years, and the relentless single-mindedness that certain people exhibited about it bordered on insanity. We couldn't handle normal club business because these people kept steering the discussion back to the kickback and legal action issue. And all the time the BOD was sidetracked on this mess, certain elements were running amuck in club business, doing things by executive privilege instead of bringing them before the board and pissing off a lot of people in the process. Not to mention shuffling a lot of money around. As far as settlement details, I don't know them. I've heard from two current Directors and they haven't been told anything either. And if I knew details of it, I wouldn't broadcast it here. It's not my place to do it. Pat Yancey and Clay Mollman are the only people in OCA right now who are in a position to disclose anything about this, and until they do so, I'm not discussing it any further here.

For reliability and parts and technical support, it's the Carter AFB or its derivatives hands down. 4GC have been obsolete for over 30 years and there are no parts other than gasket kits readily available. Not to mention they have their quirks. I have two of them on identical 1964 Oldsmobiles- one works perfectly, the other has given me fits for fifteen years.

Depends on how you're gonna use them. For a cruiser or lazy street driver, you can probably get away with not installing hardened seats and using octane booster or lead substitute, or even some 100+ octane racing gas once in a while, and they'll survive fine. If you're planning to use a 455 like it was meant to be driven, I'd say yes, have them installed. Just make sure your machinist uses the ones for an OLDS engine, and not big-block Chevy. I've seen Olds heads ruined by trying to put in the BBC stuff because the machinist cut into the coolant passages. If that happens, you've got a pair of C-casting boat anchors, and an argument with yer machine shop. Are these big-valve (2.07 intake) or small-valve (2.00) Cs? Good set of heads either way, but the 2.07 are the factory hi-po pieces, used on 67-69 442 and Toronado engines. I've also seen them on factory dual-exhaust 98s. Unfortunately no way to tell with them on the engine- no difference in casting #s between the two.