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Sgt Art

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  1. The silicon and regular brake fluids are definately NOT compatible. Quick story. My sister took her Chrysler mini van over to a local quick lube place. The kid replaced the oil and filter and as part of their service checked all fluid levels adding as necessary. Apparenly, he got some transmission or power steering fluid into the master cylinder reservoir. Within 50 miles, they basically lost their brakes. They took the van to the local dealer not realizing what the problem was. It was the service manager who informed them of the contaminated brake fluid. My brother-in-law is a retired
  2. High compression 425s and early 455s were painted red and the air clearners were an orange/red, definately a different shade from the engine. Low compression 425s had black air cleaners. (1) I think all the 2bbl engines were low compression and the 4 bbl were high. In 1972, they all went to 8.5:1 regardless. Some even lower, i.e. 403. I think you'll find it will run okay on 87 unleaded but if it pings move up to 89. Remember, these days, octane ratings are an average of MON and RON one being considerably higher than the other. The numbers that were thrown around back in the 1960's were al
  3. That's quite a car. As far as the brakes go, let the mechanic who does the work make that decision if he thinks it needs it. If you're going to do it yourself remove the rotors and bring them to a machine shop or repair shop that has a brake lathe. They can measure them and determine if they need to be surfaced or replaced. I don't think they cost very much if you decide to replace. I'd check the wheel bearings and at the very least repack them. If the calipers aren't leaking or sticking, then there's no need for replacement possibly new boots. You may want to replace the flexible brake
  4. I'm not sure of the weight (I'd say about 4000# +/-) but I've been told the big block Olds engines didn't weigh much more than the small blocks, less than 80 lbs greater I think. The issue of horsepower has been bandied around on so many forums that I've visited and in so many articles that I've read that the numbers are just about meaningless. I can guarantee that you won't see anything near 365 HP at the wheel. Back in the good old days, the Big Three played mucho games with those figures. Generally, the HP and torque (measure in pounds feet, not foot pounds) was done a dyno at the flyw
  5. Is the vibration coming from the front or rear? Here's how to tell which if you don't already know. If you feel the vibration through the steering wheel it's the front end, if you feel it in the seat of your pants its the rear wheels or in the drive train. Rear wheel/drive train are usually (a) driveshaft or possibly worn U-joints ( rear wheels not balanced © worn tires (d) possibly worn shocks and/or springs. Front end is (a) wheels not balanced, ( worn tires © alignment problem - this will normally cause worn tires (d) warped brake rotors (e) loose front end components, i.e. ball joints,
  6. Check the rubber flex lines that run from the tank to the steel fuel line they rot out and will not hold the vacuum from the pump. I went through this not too long ago with my 77 Buick. Back then, a lot of gasoline had alcohol mixed in and a lot of people, including my father, thought that was a great idea. However, it's rough on rubber parts.
  7. The pointy side is up. If you just want to test the flow of the coolant, use plain water and don't put the t'stat in. Buy and extra gasket for a couple bucks and let the engine run without the stat. Now sit back and watch your coolant flow. You actually need the stat to slow down the flow of water so that it can dissapate it's heat into the radiator but for this simple testing it's not an issue. Once you're satisfied the pump is doing it's job, let everything cool down some and drain as much as you can. Add your antifreeze, t'stat in with pointy side up (the lower part is were the wax is
  8. "ok and how many horse power ive got now" Not very much, however part of that problem is due to the methods that were used to state horsepower. In the past, the Big Three played a lot of games with horsepower figures to fool the public. During the 1960's they rated HP at the flywheel with no accessories which isn't realistic. By 1972, compression ratios dropped to reduce harmful emissions (smog) and cam shaft timing was retarded. Horsepower is generally made in the cylinder heads and those made from 1972 on are pretty bad. They are called "smogger" heads and generally don't flow as well a
  9. " Whats the difference?" When compared to what? The number identifies the year they were used. The below indicates the specs on # 7 heads. 1971, 350 Olds engine with 64 CC chambers. The 409147 is the casting number. 7 '71 350 64 409147 W-31's had larger [2.000] valves.
  10. I usually check to see which brand is on sale. For some reason, I've always been leery of house brand oils i.e., Advance Auto. However, I bet they get it from one of the major suppliers such as Pennzoil or QS. My thinking is, if you change it within 5,000 miles (I like that number as it's real easy to keep up with, change at 5, 10, 15, 20K miles) and use a quality filter (I was reading some really bad stuff about Fram which WAS one of my favorites) and it has the correct rating and weight for your car you'll be okay. Some people think that the heavy weight oils are the way to go, like 20W
  11. If your replacement radiator has plastic tanks, look for small leaks or cracks. Both my son and his friend had problems with them. My son's car had hairline crack that would reveal the leak when you revved the engine up. You could actually see the plastic tank expand slightly and a trickle of coolant seeping out. Strangely at idle, it didn't leak. His buddy also had a bad experience with a replacement (as in made in Mexico) radiator. In his case, several of the metal clips that hold the plastic tank to the core weren't properly crimped over the tank. The sealant held it together for a
  12. Oldsmaniac is right about the lack of T'stat not allowing the coolant to flow correctly it allows it to move too fast and not properly dissapate heat through the radiator. The temp of the headers seems high, but I'd be more concerned about the temp of the coolant. Use your temp gauge on the radiator top. Don't throw parts at a problem. If you suspect the fuel mix to be too lean, check the plugs. A blistered white electrode would possibly indicate too lean a mixture. Check your timing, too retarded or too advanced will cause temp problems. Also have them pressure check the system to ensur
  13. MPG has dropped off to under 10 mpg for my 403 Olds engine and Electra combo. Timing is correct, engine runs smooth but power seems a bit low, vacuum advance and centrifigal advance both working exhaust does not stink like overly rich mixture and I don't see any leaks. I replaced the fuel pump recently. Any thoughts where else to look? Pulled plugs today black sooty residue. Rich mixture. Notice PCV valve hose was loose fitting on carb. Replaced both PCV and hose old valve may have been sticking didn't rattle right away when I shook it. Adjusted idle mix screws to obtain 19 inches of ma
  14. Those flare fittings can be a pain. I find that if you push the line itself right up into the other fitting and then finger start the nut (assuming no stripped threads)it will screw in a bit before you need a wrench. Usually, you can get a couple turns and that will tell you it's not cross threaded. Those flare nuts need to be all the way into to press the flared hose fitting in it's connector to seal properly, so I'm going to say you did it right. Sometimes you need to bleed the air out of the system depending on how much got in. Do this by turning the steering wheel all the way to one s
  15. 205 is pretty high! I don't think I've ever seen a gasoline engine go that high. More than a 10 variation between cylinders is usually considered a problem, but if judging by the high numbers you have, I don't think compression is a problem.
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