Sgt Art

The silicon and regular brake fluids are definately NOT compatible. Quick story. My sister took her Chrysler mini van over to a local quick lube place. The kid replaced the oil and filter and as part of their service checked all fluid levels adding as necessary. Apparenly, he got some transmission or power steering fluid into the master cylinder reservoir. Within 50 miles, they basically lost their brakes. They took the van to the local dealer not realizing what the problem was. It was the service manager who informed them of the contaminated brake fluid. My brother-in-law is a retired NYPD detective got a sample of the brake fluid and sent it to a lab. It came back positive for some type of petroleum contaminate. The dealership would only repair the system if ALL of it was replaced. That included everything from the master cylinder, the lines to the calipers. If they didn't agree to that, the dealer would decline the job. It wasn't cheap. My sister sued the quick lube place in small claims court and got a settlement. Point is, just a little bit of the wrong stuff can cause big problems. I've heard other stories about converting over to silicon brake fluid. You may want to do more research on that. Seems I was considering it once and decided to pass as I just didn't think it was worth it. IIRC correctly, BWM was a strong proponent of using silicon as was Corvette, but I could be wrong.

High compression 425s and early 455s were painted red and the air clearners were an orange/red, definately a different shade from the engine. Low compression 425s had black air cleaners. (1) I think all the 2bbl engines were low compression and the 4 bbl were high. In 1972, they all went to 8.5:1 regardless. Some even lower, i.e. 403. I think you'll find it will run okay on 87 unleaded but if it pings move up to 89. Remember, these days, octane ratings are an average of MON and RON one being considerably higher than the other. The numbers that were thrown around back in the 1960's were always the higher of the two. (1)http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofeng.htm#Engines%201964%20-%201990

That's quite a car. As far as the brakes go, let the mechanic who does the work make that decision if he thinks it needs it. If you're going to do it yourself remove the rotors and bring them to a machine shop or repair shop that has a brake lathe. They can measure them and determine if they need to be surfaced or replaced. I don't think they cost very much if you decide to replace. I'd check the wheel bearings and at the very least repack them. If the calipers aren't leaking or sticking, then there's no need for replacement possibly new boots. You may want to replace the flexible brake line running from the caliper to the steel line if they are old and cracking. I'd go with the ceramic pads. I've been using them on my cars and they're nicer than the semi mets.

I'm not sure of the weight (I'd say about 4000# +/-) but I've been told the big block Olds engines didn't weigh much more than the small blocks, less than 80 lbs greater I think. The issue of horsepower has been bandied around on so many forums that I've visited and in so many articles that I've read that the numbers are just about meaningless. I can guarantee that you won't see anything near 365 HP at the wheel. Back in the good old days, the Big Three played mucho games with those figures. Generally, the HP and torque (measure in pounds feet, not foot pounds) was done a dyno at the flywheel. There were no parasitic devices such as power steering or a/c compressors, no transmission, no differential to sap power. The figures really weren't what you'd expect to see in real life. Shortly after 1970, a couple things happened so that it's almost impossible to compare figures on older engine to newer ones. They dropped compression ratios to about 8.5:1 on most engines some were even lower, they retarded camshaft timing, added other devices that restricted cylinder head flow (this is where the HP is really made) and lastly, the SAE adopted a new way of rating HP. They added all the hang on stuff. Here's how I look at it. How does the car perform? What is your 0-60 and/or 1/4 mile time? What is the car's top end? The last one can be dangerous as most American cars don't handle well above 90 MPH in my experience without some serious suspension mods. Perhaps a flat open road... Bill Jenkins drove the big block guys nuts running a 327 Chevy engine in a Chevy Nova or Chevy II, I forget which. His car was light, the engine made plenty of power and low end torque and he won beau coup races. All the throwing around HP and torque numbers is just a form of mental masturbation IMO, it feels good but it's non-productive. Hope that helps.

Is the vibration coming from the front or rear? Here's how to tell which if you don't already know. If you feel the vibration through the steering wheel it's the front end, if you feel it in the seat of your pants its the rear wheels or in the drive train. Rear wheel/drive train are usually (a) driveshaft or possibly worn U-joints ( rear wheels not balanced © worn tires (d) possibly worn shocks and/or springs. Front end is (a) wheels not balanced, ( worn tires © alignment problem - this will normally cause worn tires (d) warped brake rotors (e) loose front end components, i.e. ball joints, tie rods, etc. Some shops balance tires to about 55 MPH on their machines and after that you're on your own. If you can't isolate it, you'll need a pro to take a test drive. You can end up throwing a lot of money at a problem like this, so my advice would be to see a pro.

Check the rubber flex lines that run from the tank to the steel fuel line they rot out and will not hold the vacuum from the pump. I went through this not too long ago with my 77 Buick. Back then, a lot of gasoline had alcohol mixed in and a lot of people, including my father, thought that was a great idea. However, it's rough on rubber parts.

The pointy side is up. If you just want to test the flow of the coolant, use plain water and don't put the t'stat in. Buy and extra gasket for a couple bucks and let the engine run without the stat. Now sit back and watch your coolant flow. You actually need the stat to slow down the flow of water so that it can dissapate it's heat into the radiator but for this simple testing it's not an issue. Once you're satisfied the pump is doing it's job, let everything cool down some and drain as much as you can. Add your antifreeze, t'stat in with pointy side up (the lower part is were the wax is that expands and forces it open) put all together and let the coolant flow allowing trapped air to escape. Make sure you have a nice new radiator cap that is both correct and seals properly with your radiator. It's amazing how many people do all that you have done and put some ratty old cap back on. I think your stat is probably okay, sounds like you put in backwards.

"ok and how many horse power ive got now" Not very much, however part of that problem is due to the methods that were used to state horsepower. In the past, the Big Three played a lot of games with horsepower figures to fool the public. During the 1960's they rated HP at the flywheel with no accessories which isn't realistic. By 1972, compression ratios dropped to reduce harmful emissions (smog) and cam shaft timing was retarded. Horsepower is generally made in the cylinder heads and those made from 1972 on are pretty bad. They are called "smogger" heads and generally don't flow as well as some of the earlier castings. Volumes have been written on this subject and there's nowhere near enough space here to do that. Your compression ratio with that engine is probably about 8:1 maybe 8.5:1. The old heads with smaller combustion chambers were about 10:1. Secondly, the SAE standardized the method in which HP is computed making it a bit more realistic and all the numbers are lower now so it's almost impossible to compare a 1960's vintage engine to a late 1970 or 1980's engine. If you are trying to increase HP, you'll need to find some of the older cylinder head castings ID code 5 or 6 if you can find them. They don't grow on trees in the U.S. and are probably much harder to find in Europe. On top of that, you'll probably have to use higher octane fuel or they will cause your engine to knock. Short answer, HP figures are pretty much meaningless to me. I judge an engine on how it performs in the car it is being used in. This can be gauged by it's time from 0 to 60 MPH or the time and speed in the quarter mile. Bill Jenkins gave the big block guys fits back in the 1960's with a little 327 (mouse-motor that roared) in his Chevy.

" Whats the difference?" When compared to what? The number identifies the year they were used. The below indicates the specs on # 7 heads. 1971, 350 Olds engine with 64 CC chambers. The 409147 is the casting number. 7 '71 350 64 409147 W-31's had larger [2.000] valves.

I usually check to see which brand is on sale. For some reason, I've always been leery of house brand oils i.e., Advance Auto. However, I bet they get it from one of the major suppliers such as Pennzoil or QS. My thinking is, if you change it within 5,000 miles (I like that number as it's real easy to keep up with, change at 5, 10, 15, 20K miles) and use a quality filter (I was reading some really bad stuff about Fram which WAS one of my favorites) and it has the correct rating and weight for your car you'll be okay. Some people think that the heavy weight oils are the way to go, like 20W50. I don't agree with that. I think you should use what the manufacturer recommends based on the climate you live in. Most of the older engines seem to require 10W30 or 10W40. Some people in warmer climates claim single vis oils, 30W, are the way to go. My owners manual indicates this is okay but that limits temp range you would be operating in. For instance, this would probably be okay in the Deep South where temps don't get very cold. Usually, those charts in the owners book give you temp ranges and which oil is recommended. I've had limited experience with synthetics and that was the only engine I ever spun a couple rod bearings in. I can't say it was the fault of the oil, but given the expense of it I decided to just go back to real stuff. I will say that changing the oil/grease in a manual shift BMW 325 from mineral base to synthetic made a lot of diffence when shifting gears when the car was cold. I think the product came from Redline. That car had over 100,000 miles when I traded it and the tranny was fine. I think for transmissions and diffs, synthetics may be the way to go as many times they are neglected.

If your replacement radiator has plastic tanks, look for small leaks or cracks. Both my son and his friend had problems with them. My son's car had hairline crack that would reveal the leak when you revved the engine up. You could actually see the plastic tank expand slightly and a trickle of coolant seeping out. Strangely at idle, it didn't leak. His buddy also had a bad experience with a replacement (as in made in Mexico) radiator. In his case, several of the metal clips that hold the plastic tank to the core weren't properly crimped over the tank. The sealant held it together for a little while after it was first installed, but eventually it failed and again, a small leak near the lower hose developed. These leaks are very subtle so you have to look hard to find them. You may need to go to a shop that can put some dye in your coolant that will show the leak if there is one. The other suggestions are all valid. Also, make sure you have a nice new radiator cap. Not saying you did this, but I am amazed at how many guys will put in a new radiator, hoses, clamps, antifreeze and use the same old cap. If none of what I've posted solves your problem, a pressure test is in order.

Oldsmaniac is right about the lack of T'stat not allowing the coolant to flow correctly it allows it to move too fast and not properly dissapate heat through the radiator. The temp of the headers seems high, but I'd be more concerned about the temp of the coolant. Use your temp gauge on the radiator top. Don't throw parts at a problem. If you suspect the fuel mix to be too lean, check the plugs. A blistered white electrode would possibly indicate too lean a mixture. Check your timing, too retarded or too advanced will cause temp problems. Also have them pressure check the system to ensure it is properly sealing. If not, the boiling temp of the coolant goes down allowing overheating. A 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water with a 15 psi radiator cap should raise the boiling temp to about 270. If your engine is hitting 220 or so when running or stopped, that's not really overheating. When you cut the engine off, it will go up some, but then come down as it cools off. Timing, proper flow and no leaks of pressurizing problems are the things to look for. If temp rises when it's running while sitting that's pretty normal. What happens when you're driving. 403's came stock with 750 Quadrajets (in fact I think most Quads are 750) what type car are you using now? I ran a 600 cfm Edelbrock on an Olds 455 for quite awhile with no issues. I also have a 600 cfm Holley on a 460 Ford and it runs great. No race car car engine, but it hauls around a 72 Lincoln that weighs in over 5200 lbs.

MPG has dropped off to under 10 mpg for my 403 Olds engine and Electra combo. Timing is correct, engine runs smooth but power seems a bit low, vacuum advance and centrifigal advance both working exhaust does not stink like overly rich mixture and I don't see any leaks. I replaced the fuel pump recently. Any thoughts where else to look? Pulled plugs today black sooty residue. Rich mixture. Notice PCV valve hose was loose fitting on carb. Replaced both PCV and hose old valve may have been sticking didn't rattle right away when I shook it. Adjusted idle mix screws to obtain 19 inches of manifold vacuum. Will test again this week.

Those flare fittings can be a pain. I find that if you push the line itself right up into the other fitting and then finger start the nut (assuming no stripped threads)it will screw in a bit before you need a wrench. Usually, you can get a couple turns and that will tell you it's not cross threaded. Those flare nuts need to be all the way into to press the flared hose fitting in it's connector to seal properly, so I'm going to say you did it right. Sometimes you need to bleed the air out of the system depending on how much got in. Do this by turning the steering wheel all the way to one side then all the way to other. Check the fill reservoir and if there's no noise (groaning etc) you've got the job done. Chances are you got a slightly different version of the hose but if it fit you've got it. Check the level of fill reservoir for the next week or so and clean around the fittings, that way if there is a leak or it develops one, you'll see it.

205 is pretty high! I don't think I've ever seen a gasoline engine go that high. More than a 10 variation between cylinders is usually considered a problem, but if judging by the high numbers you have, I don't think compression is a problem.

It probably does due to the wild swings a vacuum gauge can take with rapid cahnges in engine vacuum. Possibly, without that, some felt it was distracting seeing it bounce back and forth and also to keep it from breaking.

The quickest way I know to find out if you have limited slip,l you don't have a book with the code numbers, (Posi-Traction) is to jack up the rear of the car so that both rear wheels are off the ground. Then manually turn one wheel. If the other wheel turns in the same direction of the one you are turning, it's posi-traction. If it's a regular diff, the other wheel will turn in the opposite direction. I'm betting you have Posi-traction based on your description of the noise. I believe this is caused by the clutches locking up in the diff housing because of contaminated rear end grease (lube). GM offered some sort of additive (after you remove the old stuff and add new lube) to prevent the lube from foaming and having air bubbles in it that cause all that racket. I had a 69 Corvette that gave me fits with that. I tried changing the lube, adding GM's stuff and it didn't work. Finally, a mechanic I knew who raced a lot put me on to a product called Frankland's Gear Lube. He drained the old stuff added the Frankland's and I never heard another sound out of it! This was quite a few years ago. The first thing I would do, is see if changing the lube will work, you can do that yourself. If the rear of the diff housing is removable, take it off, drain it, and get some rags to wipe down everything you can in there - have both rear wheels off the ground so you can spin the wheels by hand and get the whole ring gear and other sides of the diff. One tech I know uses WD-40 as a cleaner. Seal the whole thing up with a new gasket and fill it to the correct level, which is usually to the top of the fill hole. BTW, those fill hole plugs can be hard to get out. Use a 1/2 drive breaker bar and try not to round out the edges. It's a pipe thread so don't go overboard on tightening either. If all this is more than you care to undertake, I have no idea what your mechanical ability is (that's not a shot) then just about any journeyman tech can do this job for you at a reasonable price. I would guess about an hour to an hour and half labor would be fair. If all that doesn't cure the problem, you may be in for a rebuild of the unit's clutch pack, that's a little more expensive and a lot of small shops may not have the proper tools to do the job.

Not only malicious destruction of something useful and enjoyable to many of us (and this is one of the few forums where I don't see people flaming and showing their behinds) it's a real problem in business. Most companies are reliant upon the internet for day-to-day operations. I'm in the retail auto dealership industry and we use it to transfer funds, manage our bank accounts, communicate with GM and GMAC and our various lenders. It's kind of like derailing a train, it may seem like fun to some psycho types, but it's really pretty sick.

As long as you're going to have the oil pan off, I'd check rod and main bearings. As noted above, depending on how many miles it's been since the engine was torn down/built, you may want to replace the oil pump, they usually aren't very expensive. With good bearings, seals and oil pump, the lower end of your engine should be in decent shape. What type of compression readings do you get?

Dale's reply is short and sweet, allow me a bit more. I'm guessing it's the opening price he's asking for which seems a tad high to me as well. However, how much do those things normally run? Can you find one like it or as good as it for a cheaper price. If so, buy it then sell it for a 10 % mark up and you can undersell him and ruin his whole day. Nobody is forcing you to buy it. IMO, the seller is not scum, just a profiteer trying to make as much as possible. What he's selling is not life saving or taking advantage of people who have just lost their home and everything else in a hurricane or other disaster.

Will the 330 mount bolt up to the 350 engine? If so, you may want to try them. You could measure the distance from the back of the mount to the where the trans bellhousing bolts up, if they are the same, and you can use the 330 mount, I'd say you're in business. If the 330 won't fit use the standard Olds small block mount on the 350 and check the measurement. Again, if they are close see if you can fit it in.

It seems like years ago I read about that term in some car magazine with regards to engine building. The guy explaining it was a GM employee who assembled engines for the one of the divisions.

The charts I've seen of various engines comparing CR and HP vary widely. But, from what I've been able gather, 1 point of CR really doesn't deliver that much more HP/Torque. One of the worst comparisons people make is to point out the first year(s) when CR was dropped across the board and the large HP decine. However, at that time, the auto industry also adopted the SAE Net HP method of rating and engine's power. So, you really can't compare numbers from say 1969 or 1970 to 1972 or 1973. The fact is, the earlier figures were unrealistic and just a means of attracting buyers during the height of the muscle car era. HP really doesn't mean a thing to me. I look at how the car preforms in say 0-60 or the quarter mile. Also, what type of top end can you realistically get out of it before it starts to disassemble itself. In the end, that's all that really matters. Bill Jenkins put a hi-po 327 Chevy in a little Nova and drove the guys in the big block cars wild...it was the mouse that roared.

This is from Olds FAQs: For 1968 and up applications, the VIN derivative will be stamped into the LH side of the transmission, between the two ribs and just above the pan. This will be the same number/letter combination that the engine received- see engine ID above for particulars.

There were two versions of the 350 offered in 1969, I'm not certain of 1968, but I'd guess it was the same. The 2bbl version had a 9.0:1 CR, the 4bbl was 10.25:1. So, if your engine is or was originally a 2bbl, you shouldn't have any problems using 89 or even 87 octane gas. One thing about octane; the numbers these days are an average of the two methods of computing octane, you'll see it on the pumps (RON+MON/2). Therefore, if RON = 95 and MON = 83, the average would be 89. Now, given all the corporate b/s of the times, and it's still with us, which of the two numbers do you think the gasoline companies represented their product at to the public? It's a pretty confusing subject, just do a search and you'll be overwhelmed with all the data, charts, etc on it. Another thing to consider is cylinder pressure. I once rebuilt a 69 Corvette with 350 Chev engine rated at 10.25:1 CR (300hp). It knocked like crazy under a load with 87 unleaded gas (higher stuff wasn't readily available at the time). Everything went back the same, new pistons, but the same type (flat tops) except the cam. I used a different cam (forget the specs) that gave great low end torque and no knocking. This was explained by the instructor as lower cylinder pressure created by the slightly different profile.