StevieG

You could try looking at this site http://www.caswellplating.com/ They have a user forum.

My 1930 DD has a flat windshield that opens vertically like a guillotine. I have the rubber for the bottom and side, but there was no rubber to seal the top. Was there rubber here before, and if so what shape is it, and where would it installed??? Any help would be great Thanks Stephen

Thanks for posting this, I also receieved an email from Gary and had put up a notice on the website. here is the link to the Orange Field layout http://local.aaca.org/hershey/documents/2007/OrangeField07.pdf

I've had other people mention this problem with me, and I have checked into it many times. Each time I try it, it works correctly, I've renewed my membership many times now... I will look into it again, and any extra detail you can send me would be great send them to webmaster@dodgebrothersclub.org Thanks Stephen

I also would be curiuos to know more about the colors of the 1930 DD, I'm in the porcess of redoing mine, and all I see on the inside of the body written in chalk are the number 4 over the number 24..... not sure if that is a paint combination or some date.... Thanks

Hi, and welcome to the club. If you would like to have some reassurance you can send an email to membership@dodgebrothersclub.org and I'm sure Les will let you know of the status. Thanks Stephen

I fixed the problem with the picture gallery, take a look they should all be there.

The hosting company is still trying to resolve the issue, they now know what is causing the problem, it is now how to fix it! You can still pay your dues by making a payment directly on PayPal and making the payment to paypal@dodgebrothersclub.org, remember to write in the comment area your name and info. USA & Canada is $25 plus $1 handling = $26 Everywhere else is $30 and $1 handling = $31

Working on it now, money is all paid.... some technical problem on the hosting end.

Just to clarify. It is 2/3 of the votes. Not 2/3 of the total members.

Not sure what model shock you have, I have a PDF doc showing the shocks. The document came from of a French site so the text is in french, but there are pictures. The large screw is a cap which holds the needle valve, on the cap is a number and letter which corressponds to the weight, you will see the chart on this in the doc. If you need some translationlet me know. Stephen

They had a non-metallic lining that they used, told me that is what they use when they had to replace the old asbestos type linings.

I have a friend who work in the elevator industry. My hand brake on my '30 DD is exactly the same set-up as a lot of elevator brakes. Look for a company that does industrial brakes, they can probably do them...

Rebuilt my shocks, does anyone know what type of oil to put in them? Thanks

I have put some measures in place to prevent these ads. A while back I was asked to remove the requirement of having to Log On in order to submit an ad, while this did work well for over a year now, we are now receiving these unwanted ads. I receive an email with the contents of every ad placed on the site, this was also done so that the ad would be posted instantly without waiting for me to validate. I then delete ads if they are not on topic for the club. If the new code changes I have made do not correct the problem, we will be going back to having to Log In to place an ad. Thanks Stephen

My 1930 DD has a 6 volt Negative ground. Can I use a fuel sender that is 12volts ? I will be using the stock gauge. Thanks Stephen

I'm in the process of redoing my 1930 DD sedan. It looked nice, untill I removed the bondo.... Now I would like to rebuild the rear fenders but would like to get some pics to see the real shape and details. If you have any that would be great. Thanks Stephen

Should my 1930 DD have a temperature gauge, I know there is no gauge on the dash, I'm wondering if it should have the one that goes into the radiator. Thanks Stephen

You can take a look at this site. http://www.manheimgold.com/

Thanks, I'll give that a try....

I was looking for one that goes onto the screw part( where the hubcap screws too ). I can't remove any of the bolts as they go on the drum, so I can't get to them when the drum is on.... I attached a pic, not exactly my wheel but the hub part is the same. My wheel has the brake drum behind the spokes..

I need to pull the rear wheels off my 1930 DD, have new bearings, and to check/do the brake pads..... BUT.... I need to get/make a puller, any ideas where I can get one from, or what will work?? Thanks Stephen

Well, every now and then one slips by me..... It's gone now. Anyways not sure if it tells anything about people who build rods, but this guy didn't leave any info on how to contact him????

Hi, measured mine, the rim is a two part rim, the inside part with the wood spokes is 18 inches.... the outside of the rim where it touches the tire is 20 inches. So it sound the same as what you have. My model also has the tire mount on each side fender...

I have a 1930 DD, it has wood spoked wheels, I'll check the rim size, and tire size for you tonight