RO

JT, that is probably the next step but they are hard to find and expensive from the popular vendors. Prior to that I might pull it off one more time and take it to the shop and just see if anything can be determined on the bench. We believe, even though the weld was done very well as far as we can tell, that it might have introduced a tolerance problem of some sort although I have been driving the car several years until this problem manifested itself at a car show.

Yes, this car was converted to 12V when we acquired it and it does have the ballast resistor on the firewall. So the wire from the starter switch goes to one small terminal on top while the other small terminal on top goes over to the coil. It was just brought to my attention that this starter had been previously repaired in that the portion containing the gear teeth apparently was cracked at some time and fixed by welding. We are thinking that perhaps on the weld, that now with new internal parts, that due to out-of-tolerance, the stater drive is not being able to be pulled off. We plan to use a small shim tomorrow evening on the bottom attachment bolt to see if that can help initiate the starter drive pull off. The thought is the gears are just held too tightly now with all the new parts.

OK, no ideas from anyone. Here's an update: Replaced the starter solenoid (a newer than the new one) and eliminated the "self-starting" with the battery cable attached problem. However, even pulling the starter solenoid wire from the dash while starting the car, the starter continues to turn after the car is started.

A few weeks ago I had a problem with the starter on the '41 120 where it would stay engaged even with the starter switch undepressed. Now after a brand new starter solenoid and the starter totally rebuilt the problem mainfested itself again today when we reinstalled the starter and hooked up the wire. Here is the scenario: 1. Installed the rebuilt starter and hooked up the wires (this is a two-terminals on top solenoid for this 12-volt conversion with one wire to the coil and one to the push button starter switch on the dash. 2. Besides those two 16 gauge wires, there is the battery cable connected to one big side terminal of the solenoid along with a wire to the horn relay, one to the overdrive relay, and one back into the dash to the ammeter from which the ignition switch and starter switch get their power. 3. We connected the other end of the battery cable to the battery and all was normal, no sparks or such. 4. Turned on the ignition and pushed in the starter switch. 5. Car started and was running fine but the starter sounded like it was still turning, so I killed the ignition but the car continued to run at which point I yanked out the front seat and pulled the battery cable off the battery. 6. At that point, I disconnected the starter switch to starter solenoid wire and routed an external push-button starter switch. 7. Reconnected to the battery but immediatley the car tried to start without even depressing the external starter button. Pulled the battery cable off again....frustration beginning to build! 8. We disconnected EVERY wire from the starter solenoid leaving only the battery cable to that one big stud terminal on the solenoid and of course that metal current carrier that goes to the nut on the front of the starter. 9. Upon touching the battery cable to the batter, the car actually started immediatley and ran for a second. With ALL the wires disconnected, I'm at a loss what the problem is. It is the same problem before we got the new solenoid and the starter rebuild. Need help as do not know where to proceed from here.

Pinion Seal 1956-58 Packard all models same as 1951-54 Kaiser/Frazer (source ebay)

OK, great. Have printed all the information. Indeed, washers have been replaced and we even installed a couple of spacers. I'll study this and see what we can do. Thnaks.

Well, we have been under the car and made adjustments to turnbuckles and the "neutral gate" area referred to above but the problem still exists. A friend who is very knowledgebale on these type things tried to make some rod adjustments but reached the stop end and could adjust no further. I have no problem with reverse, just the "awkward" position of the lever....I just don't want to risk perhaps having to take off fast some time and busting any gears. I solicited help from the PAC site and have looked into several Service Bulletins and postings going way back, but none of them address this problem; they all address locking up in two gears at the same time, no shift into reverse, or no shifting at all. But with the number of service bulletins talking about the shifter, there obviously must have been some inherent problems from '41-55. Numerous mentions of customers with problems, take it to the shop for a fix, problem still occurs....we know how that goes. All the responses I got from email as well as the Service Bulletins just repeatedly states alignment and adjustment. The situation does not permit enjoyable drives in the car. Still going to try and do some checking around for the potential of an automatic....they have all kinds of conversion kits for the Chrysler 727 including of course the one used in place of the Ultramatic which is what I have on my '55 Clipper when I got it.

Have had a problem for some time with my '41 120 tranny relative to first gear and have tried to make adjustments but unable to fix the problem. The problem is the post-mounted original gearshift lever will not pull down as far as it should or as far as is normal for a first gear. It only pulls down below the neutral position a little ways and one keeps wanting to pull the lever further down. While this isn't usually a problem, there is concern perhaps taking off too fast if not fully engaged could be problematic. As an example of the problem, if you leave it in first to go down a hill, it will often jump out, so I usually stay in Neutral or get it into 2nd. No problems at all in any other gear. The car is equipped with original Overdrive but everything is disconnected electrically except for a toggle switch I use to activate the solenoid when up to speed and this working very well. We have gotten under the car and adjusted all the rods and levers to the maximum extent possible and even put a spacer in one area to alleviate the slop. Don't know where to go from here and not all that familiar with the transmission either. If I could find an automatic tranny that would bolt up to/adapt to the original 282 straight 8 engine, I would do it in a minute but have no knowledge of this ever being done.....it's always 350 Chevy crate motor and some 700 tranny but that's not my route at all.

Remember that Max Merritt (at least a few years ago) I believe did the Gas Tank Renu and the tank I received has performed with no problems. MM alternative to Kanter.

After all the gas tank problems I have experienced, I'm a firm believer in a transparent filter mounted prior to the inlet to the fuel pump that is easy access for changeout. One two of my Packards I have them close to the gas tan k outlet. That way I can monitor the gas coming out of the untreated tanks and change the filter out as needed.

You might try at http://www.classiccar.com/chats/chatpro.cgi where most of the Kaiser/Frazer guys are; I have two 54s but haven't had either switch out and of course the '51 book is all there is even for '54. You may have to sign on and get a password.

I just had a double action pump for a '56 Lincoln rebuilt by Arthur Gould and the price was reasonable and the pump came back looking like new with all new modern rubber and seals. Also had a '55'56 Packard water pump rebuilt at the same time. Took under a month to get both back.

http://www.packardclub.org/ 1958 All Engines Silver (block and pan) with black valve covers except the Packard Hawk that had the same gold "Packard Super 289" stickers as all the '57's. SDC: http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/sdc_forum/default.asp

A few years ago I acquired a water pump in a box labeled PS-177, Packard - V8 55-56 but inside the box was a pump with the only identification on it as P138-1 with an impeller # of 5200. 1. Anyone have a cross reference to the PS-177 # and the P138 #? I believe the PS stands for Parts Specialties out of Detroit, Michigan. 2. This P138-1 water pump has six mounting holes that line up perfectly with the known Packard water pump for '55-56, P/N 440050. However, the 4 holes for mounting the fan are off just enough so as not allow installation. I plan to use the impeller from this rebuilt P138-1 for a used Packard water pump that has no impeller, but am curious about the P138 and its possible application before diassembling it.

Use the whole line I copy/pasted it in and it works ok. Just highlight the entire url through html and then paste it into the URL. www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,778034,00.html

Nice video!

Since they have revamped the site, I just checked the chat and posted to the forum with aboslutely no problems.

I have been a PAC (as well as PI) member for about 12 years and find both clubs very helpful. Have gotten leads on parts from PI and the PAC site have gotten technical help as well as even contacts for certain parts. There is indeed a wealth of information on the site from technical data and tips to details of the individual models. With your PAC (or PI) membership you will get newsletters and a members (with cars listed) list.

I logged onto the PAC site with no problem including both the forum and the chat site. You do have to wait about 2-3 minutes for the necessary supporting software package to install and then restart your machine. I "may" have had an advantage to this because my name and password from 2004 are still valid. No one else was on the chat room at the time. Now once you get to the forum, you will see a note from the PAC site webmaster relative to the site being corrupted and it has taken some time to rebuild....these are volunteers doing this. But the old forum topics were salvaged and you can easily get to them.

http://www.findcars.com/a.php3?q=188721

SMS I think it is out in Oregon as well as Kanter may have the material. Or, if you want to save some $ and are not concerned about it being precisely as original, look for a fabric shop around your area, particularly one that specializes in factory leftovers, etc. I got some that way for my '56 Custom and it is close enough.

My '56 Clipper Custom pickup tube was never able to be unplugged. I used 120 psi, speedo cable, stiff wire, Kroil soaking, even acid at the radiator/gas tank shop and we never got it unplugged. The tank was/is clean. I just ended up going from the drain plug but put a filter close to the back to keep a watch on it. After a few hundred miles, the filter stays clean. Have no idea what has it plugged like that but it is right at the curve. I recall a story from a few years ago about someone else dealing with this and they had stated they hooked up 120 psi and let it sit on the line and after a while "something" blew out but they never found it, but the tube was cleared. Pretty durn tough dirt dobber nest I'd say.

Looking for P/Ns 298600 and 298601 rear quarter vent window weather seals for a '55 Studebaker President for the vent windows that open. These appear to be not remanufactured and popular Studebaker vendors checked are out of supply. Can take used so long as it is intact, flexible, functional, and cleanable to look decent. The weatherstrip for the opening versus non-opening windows is drastically different. Or anyone know of a similar car application that could work.

Gas Tank Renu I think is the process. I had three done, one for ~$300 ('53 Clipper) and my '55 Patrician done by a place in Texas but the third for my '55 Clipper by Max Merritt Packard vendor. A coating is baked onto the inside of the tank and then the outside coating mentioned above. I had the first two done because a popular sealer I tried to use myself flaked off on both cars within 6 months and plugged the pickup tubes. The third tank had many leaks and that is the one Max Merritt did for me. Price was about $300. A couple of notes of caution: The first place I had do this got sealer inside the pickup tube I had to clear out. The one from Max Merritt is fine. The inside sealer has thickness to it and you need to make sure the pickup tube configuration that exists for the Packards tanks that the end of the tube isn't too close to the bottom of the tank to be able to suck the gas up.

So the Olds pump is off some 350 diesel?