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RO

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Everything posted by RO

  1. Recently acquired a car that was restored in the 1996-97 time frame and it has the Chevrolet 502 by Tonawanda Engine in it. The oil filler cap shows 10W30 Motor Oil. A Jiffy Lube receipt from a number of years ago shows Quaker State Synthetic 5W50 being used for an oil change. The engine has about 8000 miles on it. I'm uncertain what oil to use in the car. I predominantly use Pennzoil or Valvoline in my old cars and never have used synthetic.
  2. Back with more data. Today we verified the ground strap. Even though I was getting an engine vacuum reading at idle of 19" I plugged the vacuum port on the rear of the carburetor that used to serve the now negated "pull gearshift lever forward starter switch." As suggested above, we pulled off the coil-to-ignition switch wire and ran a jumper wire directly from the battery to the + side of the coil.Got the car started. After a warm-up we placed it in gear but as before it shut down. However after repeated restarts, I decided to try to make the 2.5 mile drive and did make it inc
  3. Thanks, when I get back to it again, I'll check that as well as the other suggestions above. Hope to pursue it soon.
  4. Thanks for the help guys. No success today. I'll get back to it another time. Burned out on it. I had a very difficult time just keeping the car running in neutral today. Then I tried the battery to coil + side and oddly enough the car would not even restart. Most peculiar.
  5. Understand. We will try that next opportunity Tuesday. Thanks.
  6. We did that type test on our '66 Ambassador and on that car what would happen is the car would die in Park or Neutral after a few seconds with no restart until a bit of time had expired; then it would do it again. We never did figure exactly what was causing it but installation of a Pertronix and matching coil on that car cured it. After installation, the car was immediately driven over 700 miles w/o incident. We did not yet do that test on this '57 (same 327 engine, Hydramatic, Delco) because the Pertronix eliminates the original coil to distributor wire, we verified the ground wire in
  7. Yes, I concur about the Neutral Safety Switch electrically connected to the starter. It is now bypassed. The transmission is a Hydramatic. The concise synopsis is: We acquired the car in 2014 from an estate of a friend we knew. We took it to a number of car events until last October when the transmission failed on a return trip home fro a show. We drained the fluid and it looked like Pepto-Bismol. We then pulled the tranny pan and the bottom had a thick layer of black crud. So we pulled the transmission (NOT an easy job on this car because of the unique AMC "Torque Tube Trunnion" as
  8. Guess I need to check this area out more thoroughly. Indeed this car had a vacuum operated starter switch (neutral safety switch) associated with the gearshift lever which one pulls forward to start the car. This device failed in some manner and we rewired around it to the starter solenoid via a push button switch I mounted under the dash. So the car will now start in any gear, so we have to be careful. But that device should be totally disabled now.
  9. OK, good idea. Next week we'll try that and report back. Have tried so many things already, great to have a fresh suggestion.
  10. The one time it did go into gear I only drove it a few hundred feet on level ground. I will not be able to get back to it until next week. But the problem is just to get it to run while in drive.
  11. Car dies immediately but I'm certainly open to suggestions relative to this possibly being associated with the transmission. Last October we had a major transmission failure which necessitated a total rebuild of the Hydramatic transmission. We pulled and reinstalled the tranny ourselves but had it rebuilt at a local well known transmission shop where we did have to take it back to try to get the gears lined up with the gearshift indicator. But before the transmission work, other than one time when the car died making a slow left turn, the carburetor was ok. Previously I observed that when I c
  12. On our '57 Hudson with AMC 327 4-BBL, after a continued problem with keeping the car running albeit rebuilt Holley Carburetor, running from a gas can to eliminate any issues with fuel lines or filters, new Power Valve in the carburetor, etc., we decided to eliminate points and condenser and installed a Pertronix III with matching Ignitor Coil (this worked successfully on our '66 Ambassador.). In so doing the original 16 gage coil to distributor wire goes away. The distributor ground wire looks ok. All electricals tested ok. Fired up the car and let it warm up and STILL the car shuts down when
  13. 259 V-8 Bearcat engine; Borg-Warner 3-speed on the column with overdrive; Stromberg 2bbl carb; Optional fog lights, fender skirts, exhaust extensions; older repaint Teal Green. Sold on Bill of Sale as Alabama does not title cars older than 1975. Call Randall or Nell Owen 256.971.9482 or email for more pics. troglodytes@knology.net
  14. Good candidate for HPOF. Original engine, top, interior, trim, lights, wheels, etc. Older repaint Balboa Teal. Auto tranny; AMC 327 V-8 2bbl; turbocast wheels; new Coker radial WW; has PerTronix III ignition and coil. Sold on Bill of Sale as Alabama does not title cars older than 1975. Call Randall or Nell Owen 256.971.9482 or email for more pics troglodytes@knology.net
  15. I did google pictures and they appear identical to me, so placed the order.
  16. Rockauto.com does not list a master cylinder or kit for the Saratoga. Would it be the same as for a Windsor which they do list?
  17. I assume the lower rectangular resistor is the ignition ballast resistor, but I do not know what the upper cylindrical component is on this '60 Saratoga. 1960 Chrysler Saratoga firewall electrical component.docx
  18. Well, I discovered "the trick" to access the MC cover is to fire up the engine and the bellows will raise up just enough for access; we were unable to pull the cap off w/o doing that on this car. Besides a rear hose issue, unfortunately we had brake fluid leaking rather significantly from the back of the bellows though I don't know why fluid would be coming from the bellows unless the vacuum hoses was sucking it up into it. We pulled the bellows for rebuild.
  19. I did find this http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/157/index.htm that hopefully will make more sense once we get under the car.
  20. On this '60 Saratoga I am about to start work on relative to the rear brakes (separate thread), when it is started (w/o the hand brake applied), it is necessary to hold the foot brake pedal down or it will try to back up. This is not my car. A couple years ago there were some issues with the speedometer cable and the tranny pushbutton cables were messed with but I don't know what was done. I cannot find anything descriptive enough in the service manual to see what needs to be done. I had replaced the neutral safety switch at another time.
  21. Thanks for all the information. Hope to get into it later this week. I do have a service manual and see the internal brake tube between the dual wheel cylinders which I have not worked on before. The E-brake at the back of the tranny I am also unfamiliar with.The car gets out once or twice a month. The car belongs to my brother and the only brake work I can recall he has had the last ten years is a reputable shop a couple years ago added brake fluid but I vaguely remember "something" about that bellows above the MC filler cap, they may have removed it, not sure. Saturday he drove the car to m
  22. Thanks. I may have to add fluid depending upon what we find when we open up the right rear brakes as there has been an intermittent issue with "something" heating up on the right rear. Car driven on two fifteen mile trips about 4 hours apart and no issues. But car was driven about 40 miles yesterday and when it arrived the right rear hubcap was warmer than the left side but then in about 2-5 minutes smoke began rising from the right rear and the hubcap was almost too hot to touch. This had happened one other time back in December and when I jacked the rear of the car up a few days later,
  23. How do you add brake fluid to a 1960 Chrysler Saratoga? There is big stiff bellows above where I believe the Master Cylinder cap is located. Thanks.
  24. Thanks for the comments that confirm it is universally getting difficult to get older tires repaired, which while there may be some conceived "safety" issues, I see it as predominantly greed.
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