avantey

Yes Chris- that is what the engine looks like on a '12 59T. It is a 30 HP car on a 108"WB. Attached is a picture of my car taken by a previous owner at Greenfield Village in 2007. I know it is mine by the color and the running board toolbox, and I got it in the same shape you see. Wanna buy it? It is a little small and uncomfortable for me in the driver's seat, we may trade out of it yet.

Chris- nice looking wheel! Wanna do mine? It too has some horn ring issues I think. I also know one side of the turn indicator detent piece is broken as it will not stay on by itself on a left turn. Got under the Avanti tonite and started the reassembly of the brakes but didn't get very far. I had about 3/16" end play in both axle shafts that just did not feel right. Looked at the manual and it says .001-.006" total, I am not even in the same county folks! Started to think about it and found the outer bearing race was about 1/8" proud of the housing giving the bearing lots of play room. Tapping it back in to flush or a little better took out all end play. Now I am going to pull the axles and grease the bearings as long as I am here. Did it about fifteen years ago when I replaced the bearings but that is still only about 5000 or less miles when the service schedule says 25K. But it had weeped some grease with the race out since the axle end, grease seal etc were a little messy. Might as well do it now to replace whatever was lost rather than tear it apart again. Gotta borrow a xlide hammer on the way home tomorrow nite. Sooner or later we will drive this bugger! In the meantime I have to get the Overland ready for our local HCCA gathering on Sunday. That will be fun as it is this car's coming out party for some of the club members. Real casual display without judging and a short tour afterwards - a fun day with brass stuff!

Chris- I second your frustration with the heat and humidity! I am getting things done slowly between the more than one daily rain storms and the persistent high humidity here in western NY. I have all the parts I need, got them in yesterday from Dave T. Tuesday night I got a lapse in storms and sandblasted the backing plates. Within fifteen minutes I swear I saw rust forming as they started to change color from newly bare metal! Last nite after work I tried putting epoxy primer on them and I will go down after this to see if that ever set up. If I can get black on them I may have a drivable Avanti by the end of the weekend. However the forecast here is also 90+ with 70% or more humidity thru the weekend so we will see. Just makes the garage uncomfortable- swimming in your clothes as you say! That plus working Friday and a family event today- just need 30 hour days.....

Well, I continued the teardown tonite. Took out the other rear (right) and it all looked fine other than uneven wear on the shoes. I have decided to clean things up a bit so I stripped both backing plates out for powder coat, only the shoe adjusters are stuck and soaking now. Since I did new lines/hoses and rebuilt all the front three years ago and have not really driven it since I think I am going to replace the rear cylinders too (one is leaking anyways). I will also rebuild or replace the master and then I have an entire new brake system front to back that should be good for a while. Thanks to all for your thoughts and advice-

Ernie- I may get into it tonite. It is an easy four bolts to pull it out. I know I can get either a kit or a whole new mc from SI., probably other places too. Thanks,

Four years ago I put in all new stainless lines front to back with all new fittings and hoses to the calipers. At that time I also rebuilt the front calipers and they are now dry and fine. I do not remember replacing the rear hose but will check receipts/parts. Two things do not add up- It was driven five miles and brakes were fine, next start 20 minutes later had no pedal. I know a single cyl system is prone to a catastrophic failure unlike a dual but in that interval? The dry line to the left rear (no drip from line or wheel cyl) when master is reservoir is still full. Should I break open all four lines to see where there is fluid? I still suspect it is a bad master but the no flow on a line open for four days now says a clogged line someplace. If the piston in master is stuck fully extended would that create a blockage? Thanks Ernie and John for your thoughts-

Well, I took off the Avanti front wheels tonight and all looked good there. Nice and dry, minimal surface rust on the rotors from 3 years of sitting I guess. The car has sat days now with the open line at the driver's rear wheel so it should have gravity bled out right? This is the line that was dry when I unscrewed it from the cylinder and it is still dry tonight. I do not have a hill holder in this car and the next step is check for fluid on the other rear cylinder. If I have no fluid there either what do I look for- a bad junction/splitter where the rears tie in? I opened up the reservoir on the master and it is full. This is a bad sign with the pedal going to the floor without effort. I am thinking the master is in for a rebuild as well but why didn't it drain the last two days? It is an original single master system. Any ideas of what else to look at would be appreciated. Thanks,

Chris, I did open up the rear brakes today. Passenger side is fine. Driver's side is all greased up- can't tell if it is the cylinder or the seal but shoes, plate, everything is greasy so I am thinking seal. I guess I have forgotten how this seal is removed. Is it a special tool or the usual three prong seal remover? One curious thing- the line was dry (no drip or fluid) when I disconnected it like the cylinder wasn't getting juice.

OK Chris and John (and others)- I would like you to meet the car that got me in this hobby and is the cornerstone of our collection. Please meet 63R2602 otherwise known as Bill's little red Go Like Hell car. My father bought her new in Rochester, NY in March 1963, the first Avanti delivered in Rochester. She is a mostly unrestored R1 car with the 4 speed, Silent Exhaust, AM radio and few other options. She was built in Nov '62 I think and never had the grille in the front, one rain gutter is factory installed upside down and a few other quirks but I love her! I inherited her in 1978 with a $300 repaint ('73) and an mild, stock engine rebuild ('74) but otherwise this is an untouched car. In the last three years my friend Mike and I have gone thru the engine and drivetrain. The suspension and new tires are next. First I guess is the brakes as they failed when she came home Monday. She wants to run and I will get into the brakes shortly- it's been too long! Like Chris says- that Avanti rumble is the sweetest sound I know and it is GREAT to hear again in my driveway! :D

If a full resto becomes the work you could grind off the added part or feather the edges and hide it with new paint on the underside keeping the strengthened area? Just seems cosmetically cleaner than rivets without a resto in sight.

John- With the myriad choices of adhesives today from Loctite and others can't the patch be bonded on the inside of the hood and flange to be less obvious than the rivets? There are specific compounds now for all materials and conditions it seems from aerospace to automotive to home construction and on where something ought to do the trick.

I was there too. The best part was seeing the faces of the young soldiers light up at this! And they all shot cell video of it for their buds so it spreads the word even more! Some were from the motor pool and were amazed to put it mildly. All in all it was a lot of fun to intro our hobby to these young men and women. Wayne is animal with that car and boy can it run! He went off tour one day and did 250 miles without blinking, turned the 23 mile intro tour into an 85 mile ride on Sunday. Many of the soldiers had an interest in cars but had not been around the older stuff (this tour is pre-'35 stock only) and loved what they saw. Some got rides and a few of us let them drive our cars- never saw a bigger smile in my life than the 23 YO Sarge from NYC had as we pulled out of the lot in the '31 Hupp!!! These were the motor pool mechanics, two had farm backgrounds, all knew stick- only had to explain double clutching which they grasped real quick. Only problem I saw was that Sarge wouldn't let the other two drive (Pfc's under him) and they were disappointed. Maybe even hooked a few for the hobby.....

I remember my father painting new bulbs with a red dye or thinned nail polish. I was young enough not know what it was nut it is a thought. On a bright note- my Avanti came home last night after three years in my friend's shop!! He is finally healthy again and wanted it out of his spce. We had finished it three weeks ago but we were very busy prepping for and hosting a VMCCA tour last week that I did not have the time to fetch it. He called and delivered it last night and it sure looked good coming down the street after all that time! However, after I moved a few cars around I went to put it in the garage- the brake pedal went right to the floor... Called him and he said it was fine on the way over but I guess I have another project for the list. We broke two cars last week on tour (Model A quit and '31 Hupp acted up as we went to the trailer lot), the Overland did not want to stay running when moved and I have a lawn that has not been mowed in over two weeks. That is first on the list with Mother and it is tonite's project. I will have all weekend to play in the shop and maybe get the fleet back in shape. But my little red G-L-H machine is home!!

I am not sure my temp guage in the 1931 Hupp is working right. One of the first checks is to test the temp sending unit. It is a model H-14 from WH Nagel Electric co. One lead goes to the dash guage. I assume the hotter the water the more current flows. What current should it be putting out and at what temp? I know many of you are a lot smarter than me on this kind of info! Thanks,

Hi John (and everyone else)- I finally got back into my friend's shop and we worked on the Avanti Saturday. I actually got to start it and hear it! Been a long three years without. I do need some minor help though. We have two wires left hanging from the harness. They both leave the harness where it splits near the firewall and cannot be traced under the dash easily. Also they are not in the wire diagram and chart in the shop manual. The first is green with a black tracer and an open two prong connector. It wants to go somewhere near the coil by length and I saw a picture back on page 13 or so on this blog where it appears to go to either the coil or ballast resistor on the coil. The WD says this comes from the switch and is black with green tracer. I cannot find that wire in the harness or under the dash. The second is a black wire, 3" longer with a two prong open connector. I have no idea where this one comes from or goes. I ran out of time to see if they were powered with the key on. Like I said the car runs without them, all instruments seem to be working. The car is very rough running at idle like it has a big cam in it but I think that is old bad gas or not having yet set up the carb after Dave Tbow did it over. Thanks to you or anyone who can check their car and help me trace these leads. It is an R1 1963 SN 63R2602, March, 1963 build I think.

The wood frames on most of seats have been fine without anything for the most part. They hardly ever get wet or see sunlight and are usually a good hardwood like oak or ash from my experience. There are a lot of preservatives out there, some in clear. I have used Cuprinol for years on wood that is outside and it wears well. Also what about an oil like linseed or tung oil? Hope this helps,

I looked ver closely at all of RS's weatherstrip at their tent in Hershey with the owner's son. I could not find anything close enough and we spent about an hour looking. I will check their catalog just to be sure. jpage- I will PM you next. Regards,

Hi jpage- Thanks for the response. Since I started this thread this project has progressed very well and I am having it made. This shop has done other hobby work including some Hupp parts. He only uses EPDM with a UV inhibitor which is good and like most modern car weatherstrip. The tools were very inexpensive and he does not need a minimum order. I ordered the tooling last week and he says I should have parts off tool in two weeks. I will see how it goes but I am excited so far! Doing engineering for consumer products most of my career I have had some contact with extruded part suppliers so I was quite surprised at no min and his tool quote was 1/4 of other quotes I received. I talked to others who have used them and they were quite satisfied with them and their work so we shall see how it goes. What is the piece similar to my part 2? I looked at many of the major suppliers and really saw nothing near to my drawings. Thanks for the response,

I am about to have the windshield weatherstrip for the 1931 model L sedan tooled up. It is a Murray body 4 door with a crank-out single piece windshield. I know open cars are different but I am trying to find other cars that may use this weatherstrip to increase the order size. The 30-31 S sedans come to mind as they are Murray also. Attached are the two cross sections I am making for above and below the windshield. If you know of any other cars of any make that might use this please contact me here or at 315-529-8235.

Chis- you can't let a Vette owner drive the 'other plastic car", they would find out what they are missing and never be the same!! If we ever get done with winter I should have my car out this spring. Did you realize it is the 50th birthday this year for Avantis? I am looking forward to displaying a 100 YO and 50 YO Stude together!

BTT

I need to replace the weatherstrip above and around the windshield on my 1931 Hupp Model L. It is a standard for the time top pivot, crank out windshield. The top WS mounts to the header trim piece and curves around the the top of the winshield frame. The other three side mount in a channel in the windshield fram and has a two lip form- one lays visible around the frame and the second curls between the frame and body (post on sides). I have checked Steele and Metro with no luck. I would think this is a fairly common weatherstrip form/configuration since most windshields cranked out then. Any ideas ae greatly appreciated. Thanks,

We have done both given and taken rides, in fact , we were one of Mart and Dale's passengers in TX. (Hang on with Marty in that '37 Buick, he drives it!!) Only kidding Marty- it was a great day! We have enjoyed both aspects of this and I actively do both. My Model A practically wore a groove around the local Wmart lot from all the kids I gave rides too upon leaving the store. On the TX Glidden we flew in and rode every day with a different car- met great people, rode in some beautiful cars and made many friends/memories. I'll never own a '25 White Yellowstone tour bus but will not forget bouncing all day in the very back seat behind the rear axle. What fun and what great people to drive the tour everyday waiting to fill the bus! We are hosting a national tour in the spring for another club where we are arranging rides for others who are coming sans cars, may loan the Roths a car to use and will fill our backseat as needed. SHARING is absolutely a basic tenet of the hobby for us. I've finally come to admit I can't own them all........

Dave- The Cabby had three models in it's life. The early ones were designated the 68A and made until approximately Nov 1929. They had a '29 look and a more complex folding top than the later ones. The 68B was next and made until about May of 1931. It featured a newer updated look like other 1930's and had a vertical windshield. They were the highest production cabriolets with I think about 30K made. The later Cabriolet, the 68C, was made from May 1931 until the end of production and totalled around 6600 units. They featured a more sporty syle with the windshield raked back about 10 degrees and hence are called slant windshield cabriolets. With the lowest production numbers and the sportier look and the convertible top they are among the most desirable of Model A body styles. All cabbies are 'deluxe' cars per Fod marketing with chrome windshield, cowl lights, etc. Hope this helps-

Oldcar1928- Is that a braided black cloth loom or black laquered wire? Try RJ&L Obsolete Automotive Fasteners & Vintage Wiring Supplies He sells the black laquer, and also has a braiding machine to do the cloth loom over wire. He makes wire sets with the correct ends if you give him the lengths. I believe individually braided wires is unusual but I know he can do them. Hope this helps-