avantey

Glad you came over Emtee! Enjoyed meeting you and checking out your car, makes me realize how far I have to go. Especially liked parking the Century and Roadmaster side by side and comparing them. Got to see how much bigger in all aspects and slightly better appointed the Roadmaster is. Also learned the Century is about 800 lbs lighter which is interesting to finally know. Great day, lots of fun for all!

Absolutely roadability, we don't go to car shows anymore. The current carb is an aa2 and it has no power, idles poorly, hardly keeps running at a stop. I'm not familiar with the aav26, how does it compare to the aav2? What is it's original app? Is there no choke mechanism? thanks Bill

Need some help please. Just found out I have the wrong carb on the 38 roadmaster. I'm looking for a Stromberg AA2V carb with 7-18 or 7-20 on top cover. Any leads would be very helpful! Thanks Bill

This will be fun but no big event. Marty has been a friend for 25 years of touring, Just a nice chance to meet Emtee from these forums for us. The three cars are already pictured above but my Roadmaster will not be roadworthy now (really bad water pump) and Marty's 37 may stay in the trailer as we're just an overnight stop for them on the way to the Founder's. It will still be fun to get together especially since Emtee lives in the area!

Come on over if you're in the neighborhood. We're 5 minutes from sauders.

Very exciting weekend as our '38 Roadmaster is finally cleaned up and running again. Been off the road since about 2000 as other toys joined the party and took priority. But she's back now! Still got work to do -; leaky water pump, carb rebuild and spme electrical/ lighting gremlins but we're over the hump with it running awesome, driving and stopping. Got to see it like this again and remember why I fell in love and bought it! What a pretty car with great lines!!

Emtee, we are basically thinking the same thing. Not knowing much about sealant and it's adhesion properties I wonder if once it is compromised will it continue to come off the steel. Thanks Bill

Thanks Emtee - There is a brace for the filler neck and it's loose too. What damage to the sealant could come from adhesive on the outside? What if I used a putty type epoxy like JB? The only reason I care about the sealant is so it doesn't detach into the tank. A bare spot in the sealant at the top of the tank shouldn't be a major issue in my opinion. The filler neck is freestanding inside the fender as I recall. Thanks Bill

After exploring my options for repair a friend came up with an interesting idea. The standard repair is to re-solder the filler neck to the tank. However with the tank coated inside I am concerned about applying heat and not knowing what happens to the sealant inside. My options include: Find a replacement tank, not easy to find so far. I can have the tank stripped in an mek bath, do the solder repair and have it resealed with the original sealant. My friend's idea is mechanically strip the area and use an epoxy made for gas tank repair. This avoids the heat problem. I would welcome any opinions, experience or other ideas. Thanks Bill

Here's an update on the tank, I don't think it's not as bad as first thought. Upon more thorough inspection the only apparent issue is the loose filler neck and brace. That's repairable once the Gastank Renu coating is removed. Thanks to all for all the help here, forum members are the best! Bill

Thank you BuickTom87 and MCHinson for the leads. Should have thought of them, also checking with Doug Seybold today. 37 Roadmaster - not sure repair is an option. The tank was pulled and sealed in the early nineties by the previous owner at a place in Erie pa with coating inside and out. Now it feels like a plastic tank with little metal core. The filler neck is loose under the sealant also. Thanks Bill

After many years I am getting my Roadmaster back on the road. Found out today the gas tank is junk. I will check with Dave Tacheny tomorrow but just asking for other possible sources if he doesn't have one. Also need a new sending unit. Thanks for the help, Bill

That was right when we got the car. Brad had it looking really good, those white tires were new then!

Our 13 is a very original car other than paint and the seat bottom. The speedo is not working but she had under 6000 miles when we got her and we have only toured it twice adding less than 1K miles. She was awarded hpof in 2010.

Original 1913 Studebaker SA floor mat from our roadster. I have followed this thread and only recently am able to access and photograph my car. It has alternating rows of 3 and 4 fleur de lis (2 each) with the braiding out near the edge.

Yes, it's a five day tour typically having 20-50 cars out. The club does not do a judged show that I have ever heard of.

The annual national tour of the Hupp club is a moving feast! Every day is a different tour direction from Lexington to varied stops. One day is a bus tour to Louisville to Churchill Downs and Louisville slugger factory. They have told us the highlights of what we're seeing but not the daily itinerary.

In 2003 we were in Bar Harbor Maine working on the plans for a 2004 VMCCA tour. We had our Model A and went for an evening cruise thru town. As we came down the hill on Main Street towards the harbor we noticed a cruise ship was in port. We stopped in traffic and suddenly this elderly lady was in our rumble seat like she flew in! She said " c'mon, take me for a ride. I haven't been in a rumble for a long time". So her friends waved goodbye and off we went around town as she regaled us with stories of her fun ( with winks) in a rumble seat as a young lady. Got back to her friends, she thanked us and jumped out and joined her friends. Never got her name or anything but she was from the cruise ship. My wife and I looked at each other started laughing like crazy and wondered what had just happened!! But what a great old car touring memory!

Rick, Barbara Fox is the VMCCA historian and has extensive documentation on the Glidden tour history. PM me and I can put you in touch with her.

Jim, That's a new way to strap an A I have never seen before. Do you still cross strap at the front? I can see where etrack gives you flexibility! Ed are all your rings pivot type or swivel type? I've always thought to the frame was stronger. I would probably be bolting to the frame with backing plates, so broken welds like Jim talks of would not be a concern. Thanks for all the info and thoughts on this. I still haven't decided but I need soon. I want to order parts so when we go north on May 1 I can get to work. I have uses right away and a mid June tour coming fast! Bill

I actually watched the video a week or so ago when you posted it. Good food for thought. Have you ever had a car try to walk sideways using the baskets and etrack? I'm used to crossing my straps to discourage that. Bill

Thank you Jim. I know a few people who mounted them this way but I thought to the frame is better? With the backing plate to the floor would certainly allow more flexibility on location! Thanks Bill

I'm adding more/heavier D rings to my new to me trailer. I like the idea of the swivel type flush mount rings but all seem to be rated at 2000# working load and 6000# breaking strength. This seems light to me possible initial shock load put on them in a sudden stop. Pivot type D rings are available at 6000# working load which is much better to me. Are there higher load swivel D rings available? I will mount to the frame with either style. Thanks Bill

Thank you, not very obvious or easy to find for the casual inquiry. Thanks Bill

I believe there used to be a place on the AACA website that described the national tours and what cars are eligible for each tour. In looking around the website today I cannot find that information. Can anyone please tell me where to look or has that basic info been removed? Thanks Bill