avantey

Steve- I was not saying AACA does not support the Glidden but you have to admit it gets more air time in AACA when it is put on by an AACA region. This is natural and understandable to me, I get it! I just feel it is a grand old event that should be equally promoted as well as supported by both clubs. I am AACA since '79 and VMCCA since '97, love the touring part of the hobby (it's all we do- no shows anymore) and have a special place for the Glidden in my heart. We don't go every year for various reasons, this #10 since 1995, but I remember mailing out our app in RUSH mail and waiting to see if we got in, kinda like winning the lottery! Now it is a struggle to get 200 cars filled and that is sad. All I said was that AACA tends to turn a more blind eye to promotion of this great event in the years it is not an AACA hosted tour. Hardly a whimper of it here on the forums, a little advertising in AA, no buildup or write up like I have seen in the AACA years. AND as I said it is understandable from a parochial view- AACA needs to push its own club and activities for survival just like all the clubs. I have no hard feelings towards AACA for this, just wistful thinking for what I consider the premier tour event in our hobby in this country. It was truly amazing in the 1990's when there were 400-450 cars on tour and everyone just had to be there! And even in your answer to Kings32 you focused on the AACA version next year, not this year's tour which kind of speaks to my point about only when there is AACA vested interest....

Unfortunately this seems to be the pattern on this site every year that VMCCA runs it. I guess I understand to a point- AACA would rather promote their own events and club but the Glidden is the grand daddy of all the old car tours, the longest running and has a great history with members of many clubs participating. Out of respect for the heritage of the Glidden and the good of the entire hobby I always hope AACA would be behind it more every year, not just the alternate years they put it on. It is a marvelous event that we have done nine times, are going on this year and hope to do more of. We have friends we only see on the Glidden but it is an immediate reunion when we all get together! Linda's parents and a number of other GVAC's members did thirty or more Gliddens and were extremely proud of that fact, loved the tour and made many lifelong friends in the Gliddenite clan. I think the Glidden's luster has faded a little with so many tours by so many clubs being offered but it is a touring experience everyone should try at least once. IMHO-

JV- you put me on the right track but the car has been changed a lot so what you said could not be done. The center piece at the firewall is attached with screws thru the wood, however it is also riveted to the cowling piece on both sides that makes up the ledge with the lacing that the hood rests on. This side cowling piece goes all the way to the top of the frame rails and are screwed in every two inches or so. To take it off I would either have to remove the rivets or unscrew both sides all the way down and screw this huge "U" shape onto the rod. See the pics to help understand what I am trying to explain. Pictures 1 and 2 show the nutted center cast piece the rod screws into. They also show how there is a screw at every tab on the sheet metal side pieces that would have to be removed. Then the whole assembly would have to be screwed onto the rod. 3 and 4 show how the center piece is riveted where it should not be. So I left it all together and screwed the rod in until it was attached at both this end and the radiator, tightened the jam nuts and things felt a lot firmer than before. I then repositioned the hinge pin in the hood to get about 1/4" insertion in the rear piece. With the hood touching the cowl at the rear you can see where I have about 3/8" pin engagement to the cowl stirrup and about 3/16" gap to the hood. I think this will ride OK and the side latches hold it down more firmly too. Now, what do you think the two holes in front of the rod insertion hole are for? I am thinking some small sheet metal anti rattle tension-er that comes up under the rod. Any ideas? To summarize- JV was right about how it should have been done or was done originally. The rivets threw me off into thinking it was all one piece but I knew someone here was smarter than me! It is just that the car wouldn't play along in its older years!! Thanks for the help,

Hello all- I was putting a different carb on the Overland and noticed the rod that connects the top of the radiator to the firewall was completely screwed out of the firewall fitting. This explains the poor fit and alignment of the hood since I got the car. But now the question- At each end is a casting with a standard right hand threaded hole and both ends of the rod are threaded accordingly. So as I screw it into the firewall fitting it is unscrewing at an equal pace from the radiator. Therefore I am not adjusting the gap (pulling in the radiator top) at all. How do I adjust the gap? The hood hinge runs right above this rod and goes in separate upper holes in the same castings. Right now the distance from firewall fitting to radiator fitting for the hood hinge pin is 25 1/16", the sheet metal on the hood is 24 3/4" and the hood hinge pin is 25 1/8". That leaves almost no engagement of the hood hinge and a little over 1/8" hood gap at each end. The hood basically rests there on the hood lacing and the side latches hold it on. I think I need a longer hinge pin but I still want to know anyone's thoughts on how to adjust the firewall/radiator distance with both ends of the main rod threaded the same way. As always I bet someone here is smarter than me! Thanks,

Thank you Larry for the info. I found the same size pan online at Walmart and elswhere for about half NAPA's price. I may use 2 or 3 of them under the front (2) and rear (1) of the cars put in 44" sideways. The carbs on the '12 and '13 tend to leak/overflow if I forget to shut them off and a pan would be better tha a soaked up pad or cardboard with gas. Jim, you may be onto a whole new product line here! "Car-pends" for our favorite senior citizen autos. Just figure out a way to hang them easily off the frame and never leak drop! Might look funny if following down the road...... Thanks,

Interesting, cheap idea Mike! How long does it take to soak thru? Will you buy another TV so I can have the box? - Bill

OK, now I have a nice new clean painted floor and ramp in the trailer! Since it is so nice and clean I should try to keep it that way. Where can I get either the absorbing mat or the big cookie sheet to center under the car? And is one preferable to the other in the long run? Thanks for the help,

OK, you guys are right and that is what I am almost done doing. It took a couple of lumber yards to find decent one-side good CDX, it is usually pretty junky with splits, knots, etc around here. I am now waiting for paint to dry as I can only do one coat each night with work. I should assemble things tomorrow night as I put the second coat on the top side of the pieces a little while ago. I am even going to buy a hinge and now have a flap with the leftover of the second piece! Actually I asked about other materials out of curiosity mostly. Being involved in new product design I am always looking at new materials and applications for them. The crowd here is pretty hands-on and creative with solutions so it is fun to poll the audience on occasion and see what my trolling brings up. Thanks to all for jumping in!

Thanks Marty but that would make the ramp worth more than the trailer. I checked on marine grade- $100/sheet here, need 2 sheets. 8' x 8' aluminum would cost how much? You know my trailer is about 20 YO but doing OK. I think it will be 3/4 plywood with a coat of epoxy or something. Regards, Bill

It has come time to replace the surface on the rear ramp on my enclosed trailer. It has 3/4" 7 ply plywood on it now. Is there anything new out there that is better for this use? I know there is some formed plastic decking materials in board form but I do not know of any sheet goods like that. I am thinking of better waterproofing and load capabilities in particular. As the wood on my ramp was damaged before I got the trailer it has now broken/collapsed in one area. The previous owner used to drag broken dirt track cars up the ramp with the winch and tore up the plywood pretty good. Any ideas out there? Thanks,

John- I have threaded this one on the WOKR site too and some of the guys immediately said all the springs look to small/weak. I really have to pull thoe other side and compare them. However since I talked to the previous owner who did the work (new wood wheels, rebuild brakes, etc.) I would bet the other side's springs are the same. I wish I had finished stripping out the firewall and inner fenders and painted two years ago when I had the engine out of the Avanti. I was over halfway there and it would have been quite easy. Are you painting the manifolds in place or removing them?

John- I have used a high temp black paint on the '31 Hupp engine parts last year. Not your brand but came out well and is holding so far. I also used Eastwood's cast iron on the manifolds and it is holding up too. Not sure what temp manifolds get to- maybe 400 or 500 degrees? We took the '12 Overland out for a weekend a couple of weeks ago and since then have been chasing a right rear wheel brake locking up problem. Have the wheel off a few times, spent last nite underneath learning/checking the linkage and adjusting the equalizer. Still have the lock up problem but she is cleaner, lubed and adjusted better than Sunday nite! I talked to a friend who has a well known brass car resto shop today and he suggested adjusting the drum to shoe clearance tighter. It was too hot and muggy tonite to put the car up try that but we have a HCCA outing Sunday so I need to try it before then. Below are pics of the single band self energizing brakes on the 1912 Overland model 59T. First shows how all the nuts holding the wheel to the drum are ground off perp to the axle (clearance for actuator arm I guess) second is brakes at rest, third is actuated against outer band since drum is off. Sunday I did spend some time and finally got the Avanti cleaned up and polished. She sure does look better with a good wax on her! Then took it for a ride to a graduation party for a friend's son. Still running bad and I need to get the new plug wires on it soon. But it is also still a thrill to have it out after a few years and be able to drive it!! Also need to detail the inside, back shelf is filthy and inside back window is really bad but what a pain to clean without streaking..... Usually hurts my back reaching and twisting on that job. I am getting the itch for the '13 and getting that back up and running may be next project. The mag needs attention, I want to change the fuel shutoff to down by the carb like the '12 and just fire her up I hope. Of course the Model A cabby has not seen daylight since Chattanooga last fall either and that is my go-to top down cruiser. But that should be add the water and go! Keep playin in the sun!!

Terry- Does he set up at Hershey? Maybe I can have it out and bring it to him then. I deal with a guy from that area who is a great sheet metal guy. He goes home from Hershey at night, puts wells in fenders or other small work and brings it back the next day. THAT is great service to me! Thanks

Thanks Bob, I appreciate the testimonial. Not only have I done nothing yet, the leak seems to have stopped with the Seal All now. It is not runnnig on the floor, have driven it twice over the weekend and it seems to be holding now. I have not done an extended ride where it got real warm but it came up to full op temps I am sure. Maybe I won't have to send it to Marty after all.....

Rusty- I know this is the right answer and I will go this way after the summer. What I am looking for is a 'patch' so we can use the car. It is our first real driving season with it since we got it in late 2012 and we want to enjoy it if we can. Marty- Your generosity knows no bounds! Especially the "driving the heck out of it" part...... and then give it back all wore out in time for next summer? BTW this is the better half's car now, legally put it in her name and all, so you gotta deal with her on this offer!

I think if we ever move your Virginia area is high on the list. You guys have way too much fun there!!

Thanks for the responses guys! I actually called Bar's Leak yesterday and after they rolled their eyes at a 102 year old rad they recommended the pills also. I guess I will try them. It is funny you used a hot glue gun Jack. I had a product called SealsAll on tour with me. It is an MEK based glue that will seal even an active leak in water, gas, etc. I know it works on a gas tank, had not tried it on a radiator. So Saturday before going out I applied lots of it on the cold radiator and it actually stopped the leak. Boy, was I happy now!. Started out driving and in half an hour the radiator was leaking bad as ever, seems once the glue wamed it loosened up too. Thanks again,

We tok the 1912 Overland out for a weekend tour with the HCCA gang and she developed a very leaky radiator. It did not leak Memorial Day in the parade but was losing water a high rate all weekend. The leak is in a very lower corner and rate is about 1/2 gallon per hour when sitting. I cannot really afford a radiator right now and was wondering if anyone had any experience with any leak stoppers like a Bar's Leak product. They have many for all severity and types of leaks so an idea of which one or which type of material in one of these would be a great help. I really do not like the idea of doing this but I would like it to get me thru the summer. I can then remove the radiator for repair or replacement (hopefully not!). I can also just keep adding water every time we stop to get thru also I guess. Like I said, I am leery of these types of products but maybe they have improved in the last thirty years too. Any help/experience is appreciated,

John- Been a while since I checked in and I can appreciate your relation with your mowers. I use a '69 Massey Ferguson MF10 and it seems to be down more than up. My father bought it new and I love the beastliness of it! A small tractor built by big tractor people and it shows! However the carb gave up the ghost about three weeks ago and I have had to hire the neighbor kid to cover for me for acouple of weeks. I ordered a new brand carb that may be in today or tomorrow. The throttle shaft had about 1/8" play in the top hole from wear on the diecast and the shaft so it was not saveable really. I nursed it thru last mowing season but she just said NO this year! On the good side I finally have the Avanti on the road and going on tour! Broke open the piggy and got two new rear wheel cylinders from Tbow to finally solve my brake issues from last year. I now have a great high, firm pedal like I remember it being and can't wait to go driving! We are off to Belfast and Bar Harbor, Maine early in the AM for the VMCCA Chrome tour. It is 60 cars full and most are 50-70's cars. Never did a tour in a car this new except as a passenger in '08 so we are trailered up and ready. About 450 miles tomorrow to my uncle Boothbay Harbor then on to Belfast Sunday morning. Look out lobstahs!!

Learn something new everyday! Thanks!

I do not doubt the physics of comression and deformation by the tire. However, does the construction of the tire have an effect on this? I am thinking of a tubed or bias ply tire vs. say a load range E truck tire where the sidewall has two or three ply to stiffen it? Seems the rate of deformation would change and the resultant size of the footprint. Besides this convsersation was getting fun and now has turned semi-serious.......

Would it help to take the cover off the car? Kinda like standing "nekked" on the scale to improve the accuracy of your results? And Wayne, does a flat has a bigger footprint to offset the lower PSI ?!?! LOL too!

Oh I forgot the pic for whoever asked. This was Saturday in the local Memorial Day parade with Pres T. Roosevelt and SS man on board!

Thanks for all the replies. And you are probably right about NYS and it being an official weight slip. Guess I'll have to sneak a ride out to the local Petro by I90! Is their weight slip accepted as official? I have another truckstop nearby with a CAT scale that encourages the drivers to be safe and weigh in for the road side stops so I assume the NYS troopers take their slip. Thanks again!

Again I need help from the vast knowledge base stored here! Where can I get the weight of a 1912 Overland model 59T touring car? It is not on the title or reg I have. My Tom Lester book only goes back to 1915 and I have no other early resources on the shelf. Thanks,