padgett

A pressure gauge on the fitting on the fuel rail won't lie. However pure binary sounds more like the Ignition Control Module. Is a complete diagnostics procedure for "cranks but does not run" in the service manual or you can just swap the assembly if you have a spare. If not try removing the connector, cleaning the contacts, and replacing.

Reatta was converted in 2001 when I put new compressor in. Has needed nothing since. Is the third period 3800 vehicle I have had converted and never any trouble including the dual-air 92 TranSport.

All of our daily drivers have R-134A and all can easily handle a Florida summer. A lot depends on the cabin volume and whether on "inside" or "outside". The TranSport has the largest volume and does take a while to cool down but did with R-12 also. It seems that cars all use about the same size compressor whether a Fiero or a Suburban. I do understand that 134 is a bit different than R-12 and trickier to get the pressures right.

Because this country has more lawyers than doctors.

Offset of a GM 7" wheel is 46 mm (diameter does not matter). Less moves the tire out. Add or subtract 1/2 the difference (12.7 mm offset/inch wheel width) for a different wheel to keep the tire in the same place. See http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp for a calculator.

It all depends. If you did *nothing* with the disk after reformatting then usually the FAT (index to the files) can be recovered. If not (and here is the expensive part) the recovery firm has to look at every cluster on the machine and figure out what goes where - and a 50 GB drive may have two *million* clusters. If the drive has not been regularly defragmented, this can be a royal pain (expensive) and if the machine was even booted one following the action, some clusters will have been overwritten. That said 100+ GB external drives are under $100 and can be set to perform automatic incremental backups.

Moved the bottom of 81 about 1/8 inch and now seems to move freely. Also found a brnt bracket that was causing the pop. Now seems to be working fine.

It is when you open the door then close it within a few seconds without putting the key in.

Can it be seen (with mirrors ?) with the panel off and window up ? Where is the guide ? I do not want to disassemble that far without knowing what is going on.

I like AC Rapidfires. #3s for Magnavox ignitions and #14s for Delco. The #3 has a .045 gap and the #14, .060

Just had to replace the window motor on the driver's side (after finally getting a Cardone with the right mount - Dorman bracket is rong). Everything went smoothly except the window now goes down smoothly but binds about 1/3 of the way up and there is a noticable "pop" at 7/8. Pop was there before replacement. Anyone know how to adjust the window to go up smoothly. If I have to take the door apart again, I want to get it right this time.

Basically the same Delco unit was used on all 3800s at least until last year. The only difference I have heard of is in the bracket the assembly bolts to. As to aftermarket, there is a crossreference at the bottom of my coils page.

The ALDL in the Reatta is really a serial LAN that connects a number of boxes (ECM, BCM, CRTC, etc) that makes a loop around the car. If the cap on the ALDL plug is removed, the loop is opened. If everything is right it should work anyway but might make a difference.

So far son (who sells things occasionally via e-Bay) has been stiffed twice and each time PayPal has sided with the buyer and reversed the charge. They must know something we do not.

Like I said, mine was already shredded so I just removed like 2 hog rings from between the seat back and the "pillow", reached in and just tugged the remnants out. Then connected the hose to the new bag and slipped it in to what seemed like the right place. Has stayed in place for five years now.

Only connection is a tube going to the pump/dump switch on the seat. AFAIR the bladder is approximately square - think I removed one or two hog rings and just slid the old bladder out (in shreds) & the new one in. Don't think I would trust one from a recycling center but may be because something in Florida air seems to eat them. (Ozone ?)

The WOW display only occurs when you open and close the door, as soon as you turn the key on it goes into normal mode.

448 is low pressure in a/c system. According to the book that is the low side drawing down under 50 psi. I believe the low side can be monitored at BD-28 on the display but will be in degrees C not psi. Best is to hook up a set of gauges.

Jim has them. Just be aware that the codes in the book may not match the code being generated. I would suggest disconnecting the sensor you suspect at the connector on the other side of the wheel well and see if the code changes. Are essentially two sensors - a long one for the rear axle and a short one for the front. The steering knuckle seems to be drilled and tapped for both sides (sensor just uses one screw to hold). My problem was cracked insulation that shorted when I went over a bump. BTW the Accumulator is in the boost system which is related to the red brake light. I have not seen an accumulator make just the yellow light come on (unless the red light is broken).

Just to make matters worse, I hied to the local FLAPS and bought a Dorman 742-100Z power window motor. It is now back at the store since the connector end was redesigned with two longitudinal screws and they include a brass looking mounting bracket for the one bolt at that end. Trouble is they seemed to dismention the bracket as if it mounted at the head end of the scew (where the connector gets in the way) and only mounts at the nut end where it is not long enough to reach the hole. All five of the 742-100Z motors in the store had exactly the same wrong bracket. In the collector world, factory defects often bring a premium but I do not think this counts.

Opened up the driver's door to replace the windw motor and this thang fell out when the panel was losened - came out from area by the couresy/warning light at lower end of the panel. Appears to have broken off of a black plastic piece. Anyone know what it is ? (see attachment)

Last time I looked, the price for a court appearance by an expert with the opinion you want was $10,000. For $20,000 you can get a board certified expert. After all, they are just opinions.

The a/c low pressure flag is persistant. The only way I have found to clear it is to disconnect the battery for 15-20 seconds.

Salt in Florida is a problem where cars are stored outside within five miles of the ocean particularly on the East Coast. Since until a few decades ago, most of the population of Florida was within five miles of the coast this was a real problem. I remember pictures of Dodge (Chrysler seemed to have more of a problem than GM or Ford) station wagons having rusted out tailgates while still on the dealer's lot. This rust is usually found high on a car, particularly around windshields and backlights. Since central Florida has gotten populous and I live in Orlando, I see a lot less now than when I grew up on the coast. Did spend some time at Patrick Air Force base (Cape Kennedy) and whent "downrage" a lot. Used to come back from a week away and find my Maroon car had turned white.

Is the ALDL cover marked "Do Not Remove" just inboard of the E-brake pedal in place ?