Mrbuick714
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Posts posted by Mrbuick714
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Get a receipt
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The 49 came with a 248. 50,(40 series) series came with a 248 but the 50 series came with a 263.All 51-53 lower series came with a 263 In both cases Dynaflow and SM cranks were different.
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THEY LOOK LIKE PISTON EXPANDERS, POPULAR DURING THE DEPRESSION ERA
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The "FF" indicates longer threads.Whe we came out with the aluminum engine.we recommended longer threads wherever you involved aluminum. I have seen "non FF" plugs strip out. I have 7 nos AC FF plugs.Ralph Crisp BCA 2399
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If you are going to find a set of insert rods from an old engine,when a 49 engine had babbit rods,it had black lettering on the rocker cover.When these basically leftover engines were used up,they went to insert rods,and the decal on the rocker cover became red
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Small snap-ring,reaction shaft holds it on.
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I have probably taken several hundred torque balls down and never unhooked the rear springs or shock absorber links. Hmm,guess I should try it sometime.
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The only "stupid" question is the one that doesn't get asked. (author unknown)
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They are one thing that is reasonable (about $40) Bob'S has them. The bushings are pressed in,then reamed. I use e hone which has a centering cone for alignment. Reaming is fine if you use a LONG reaner.
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I have a N.O.S. transverse muffler. It has a number on it .Maybe it is for your car. I havent looked at it for awhile,but if my memory serves me,I think it has a "ball" connection at each end
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I HAVE A 2 SPD AUTOMATIC THAT FITS ON A 401
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If my memory serves me correctly,it is plainly stated in the 1954 new product information.
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Wheatbelt (ad in Bugle) would be your best bet.
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Should be easy,keep your 37 axle housing,pull the third member out of it and stick the later unit into it. you need to keep the early housing because of spring mounting
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Egge, very good.
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I work on quite a few "Flatheads" and really like them. On Ford products,I usually check condensers first,then coils. It sounds as though your points are working,you could try a bit more voltage(using a Rheostat),and if you have a disastrous coil failure,you can get an adapter to use two cheap 6 volt coils and not using the Ford ignition resistor. We have several V8's and a 9N ford tractor here with the substitute coil and they start better tha with the stock set-up.
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Find a "Concrete Canyon",and with no other cars around,roll your windows down and listen. Yhe cure is to find a newer assembly. That 56 & up rear axle is not easy to work on,and that is the understatement of the day..
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Drive between two rows of big buildings slowly.If you hear an odd noise,check for wear of the differential side gears where they go through the carrier.The noise will occur at twice wheel rotation frequency.
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Apparently our machines dont hook up so good. Try again.
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I have sold nearly 250 6 volt alternators. They work really well. BCA 2399
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215 cubic inches,used 1961-1963. I drove these cars for many years. They were reliable,and frankly I just plain drove them as I would have driven any other Buick.I kept up to others on the Interstate,got over 20 MPG. Had that car been available during the gas shortage, we would have had a winner. The English put a version of it in their Rover,with good success.
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When I worked in Detroit in 1947, Harley Earl worked in the same building where I worked. The "Y" job was his daily driver.He was a handsome man,nice to talk to.He was very tall,and it was fun to see him getting out of his car. There was a cast aluminum foot rest,recessed into the floor for his right foot,so he could use the accelerator pedal easily. He was a very tall man,didnt look much like a recent stand-in.
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I had a similar situation recently, A "rebuilt" alternator had a later model rotor in it (they look the same)The later alternators use solid-state regulators,and will "Burn up" the points type regulators. (doing auto-electric since 1944),R Crisp BCA 2399
Researching older Buicks - Where to start?
in Buick - General
Posted
Terry Dunham