brad54

Hey Lamar-- The socket extension through the hole in the frame is the key. Ratcheting wrenches from Sears also help if the engine is staying in the car. An engine hoist from the top (with those chain lifts from the junkyard small block Chevy engines I told you about ) will raise the engine without fear of denting your oil pan. Watch the distributor cap's clearance at the firewall when tilting the engine back! Lotsa luck, -Brad

Call Northstar Plating in Minnesota (218-829-4063) and see if they will restore yours. They can restore any bumper-related item to absolute factory condition, including bumperettes, etc. Their prices are the best I've ever seen, and the quality is concours. You wouldn't have a '56 322 manual flywheel, would you? (or a lead on one for cheap -Brad

The snakes reminded me-- I had my '54 parked out back in the "Field of Dreams" with the rest of the "somedays" for about two months in Florida. I pulled it into the shop and put it on the lift to replace the brake and fuel lines and install a dual reservoir brake master cylinder. About 1 am, a spider egg hatched, and hundreds of baby black widows started raining down on their little silk threads. I did what any car guy would do and grabbed the can of Carb Cleaner and started spraying everywhere. I continued spraying in all the nooks, crannies and everywhere else I though a spider could lay eggs when a baby rattle snake shot out of a hole I was spraying about a foot over my head. It's amazing how fast you'll move when a snake is shooting toward your face!

I'd be very interested to know where you can have them recast! That opens up a lot of possibilities in terms of customizing, too. My thoughts are that a recast steering wheel is going to be better, because it isn't a repair. The wheels crack when the plastic shrinks due to outgassing and evaporation of the oils in the plastic. Prolonged exposure to the sun makes this more rapid. As the plastic shrinks, it "retreats" along the steel wire frame of the wheel, toward the center of the segment, causing cracks at the ends in the joints. If you fill and repair these cracks, the old plastic is still shrinking, and your gaps can re-appear, only now just past your repair. If you get it recast, the whole thing is new, and should take another 50 years of normal use (ie: left outside for long periods) before it needs to be redone. That's just my semi-educated theory. But I would like the name of that recasting place, because I'll use it on my '54. Thanks, -Brad

I was just over at a friend's shop, and he blew apart a '58 Impala I wouldn't think would be anything but a parts car. Anyway, he shows me this little round plastic container with a snap-on lid that looks like a thing of lip balm he found under the back seat. Guess what? Condoms didn't always come in the little plastic wrappers! I'd have sworn it was a girl's lip gloss container or something, but upon inspection, the container said "Sultan Condoms." Feel kinda sorry for the poor guy who lost it in the seat that night! You just know he was frantically looking everywhere, and 15 minutes later was the long, silent ride home.

You read it correctly--there is a company making adapters to put CHEVY-style TH-400s behind the Nailhead. That's the big difference. The mounting surface on the back of the Buick is totally unique to nailheads. Not only are Chevy transmissions more plentiful, but the big deal is that you can now put a later-model 4L60 or other automatic overdrive trans behind it, as well as a Chevy manual bellhousing for a Muncie or later model 5- or 6-speed manual trans. Rather than writing "TH400", Doc should have written "700R4 or 4L60". This is particularly exciting to us 322 and 364 owners, who are otherwise stuck with the Dyna or stacking vintage adapters. -Brad

I have never seen a totally complete kit that has everything--usually only covers and seat foam. However, I've dealt with this. I should preface this by saying what I'm about to write applied to my '54 Special, and both my Tri-5 Chevy cars. I don't know if your seat has the "zig zag" springs or the coil springs like a mattress. Mine have the zig zags. Also, this is a bit wordy, but it'll get you a great foundation to cover, and brand new seats without the 50-year-old butt dents! Call local car upholstery shops, aftermarket suppliers, etc. and see if you can get lengths of the seat springs to replace any springs that are broken or sagging really bad. That may take a bunch of phone calls, but you can find them. Next, you should notice that there is a burlap covering over your spring bed, between the springs and the foam. That burlap has small diameter wire running through it. Nobody makes that, but it's an important piece, as it connects the entire seat together and distributes the weight across all the springs. The wire is curled at both ends to lock it in the burlap, and brittle, so you won't be able to salvage it. Take a caliper and measure the thickness of the wire. Then call your local piano tuner and track down a spool of piano wire in that diameter. Use stout cutters (Craftsman makes a great "Handi Cut" with a short, pug nose on it that will cut cable--so that's what I used)and a needle nose pliers to bend the ends. The piano wire is very innexpensive, too. Burlap is also innexpensive from the local fabric store. I bend one end of the wires, then zig-zag folded the burlap from side-to-side (like a hand-held paper fan little kids make in school), then held it in that position with two closepins. Then I poked the piano wires through the folds, and unfolded the burlap. You now have wires running through a piece of burlap. Around the perimeter of the burlap is a cord hemmed into the edge. The original is a paper/cardboard cord that you'll have a hard time finding. Go to the hardware store and buy a roll of Laundry Line. It's stiff, yet bends. At the edges by the end of the wires, hook the burlap around the laundry cord. I can't sew, so I cut the burlap to length, cut the laundry line to length, and then went to an seamstress and had her hem the line into the edge of the burlap, along it's entire perimeter. When I dropped the burlap off, the wires were in it, and the cord was held in on the two sides by the piano wire. When it came back, there was a piece of burlap the length and width of the seat bottm, with wires running side-to-side, just like the original. With replacement springs, the seat foundation is as-new. Use a few hog rings to secure the burlap to the seat frame. Try to find replacement/aftermarket seat foams, or "buns". I don't know if they're available. You can also cut your own out of jute foam, or bulk foam. Call some Buick suppliers first for the pre-fitted buns. Sorry this was so wordy, but it really is a fantastic way to give old seats a new life. It takes a lot of time, but very little money to do it this way. -Brad

That's very cool! I actually used to collect Mercury dimes when I was a kid--I still like them, and would like to start again, actually. The only sorta cool thing I ever found was when I brought my '54 home, there were three mouse nests in it, and one of them had shreds of newspapers; I couldn't find a date on the papers, but one headline was intact, talking about "the new Ed Sullivan Show." I can only guess that the keeper of the car also had a lot of old newspapers stashed in the garage too, as I doubt that mouse nest was in there since the car was brand new. -Brad

Hollander is the answer--these are the books junk yards use. Hollander released "vintage and classic" editions a few years back, and I have them--they're AWESOME. It's exactly what you're looking for. You can order the one you need for your time period. Their 800 number is: 800-825-0664. Try that. They also might have a website, but I'm not sure--try a search. Good luck, -Brad

Hey, here's one for the lovers of vintage hot rodding and interchanges: I remember reading in the Street Rodder nailhead series about manual transmissions that you could convert from closed driveshaft to open driveshaft by swapping the tailhousing from an Olds on the Buick gear case. They further went on to say that Ansen made a floor shifter for the funky shifting arm set up the Buick trannies had. I've got a set of vintage Hollander manuals, and they confirm the Old tailshaft swap. The big question is this: The Street Rodder article said the Ansen shifter or the tailshaft housing only works with the "six bolt cover" transmissions. Can anbody give additional info about these "six bolt cover" trannies? The manual trans from my '54 and the '56 replacement I have for it has a 5-bolt cover. I see there's a '61-'63 Special/Olds trans on ebay, and it has the open driveshaft tailhousing, and the really long input shaft that looks very similar to the one on my '54/'56 trans. Are these the 6-bolt transmission the article referred to? Do any Buick Special owners happen to have a manual 3-spd on their floor that I could talk to and get measurements from regarding input shaft length and mounting pattern? Was there ever a performance shifter for them? I'd like to put a manual behind a 264, and I'd rather have it be open drive, but mostly I'd like something that will last and maybe a floor shift. That's a lot of stuff in a 5-pound question, but thanks for any help I can get. -Brad

Here's something that might be of interest to you if you aren't going completely, totally original, but it uses same-era parts: In '56, they started using dual exhaust systems and higher compression engines: when they did this, they modified the exhaust manifolds, and made them a larger diameter. The passenger side manifolds are totally different, and are actually bulky and not real nice to look at from an "eye appeal" standpoint, but they're bigger and will flow more. The Driver's side is where the fun comes in. On the dual exhaust cars, driver's side manifold looks like a cast iron tube header, dumping out the back. The passenger side also dumps out the back (as you're '53 should also). Now, for a single exhaust car in '56, the driver's side exhaust manifold dumps in the middle, aiming forward, where it picks up the cross over pipe, which wraps around the front of the oil pan and connects with the passenger side manifold and goes out the back of the car. That single exhaust manifold is also larger diameter. What I'm doing on my '54 is this: I'm eliminating the "flapper" valve for the choke all together--that's more of necessity on cold starting as the temperature drops in the fall and winter, and it's mainly so it doesn't run rough for the first five minutes. Big deal. Anyway, what I did is found a '56 Driver's side and will route that out the back (I'll have to cut a hole in the X-braces and gusset them, but it'll be fine), and then I took a '56 driver's side single exhaust manifold--that dumps in the middle and angles forward--and am turning it around and putting it on the passenger side, where it now angles back. The result on my '54 is that I will have factory Buick cast iron "headers" that are very pleasing to the eye (as their lines "flow" well), fit around the steering box, and will flow more air than the tiny-diameter factory pieces. Kind of an almost-freebie performance enhancement. I'm going to grind and smooth them both, and then have them Jet Hot coated in white--like the old white exhaust manifold paint from the '50s and '60s, but it will last. If I'm not mistaken, the engine bay layout is very similar on the '53 V8 cars and my '54--and the 322 engines just about interchange, as far as engine mounts, accessories, etc. Just thought I'd pass this on, as I was pretty pleased when I discovered it. -Brad

This has been an enjoyable and informative post to read! I have a couple of questions: I've seen two different carb mounting pads on 322 manifolds: one has the "track" around the front of the carb for heat, the other just has the bolt holes, without the heat riser. Why the difference between these manifolds? Second, did the carbs change from '54-56? The '56 322 had more compression and dual exhaust, so was the 4bbl bigger? Third, what do these carbs flow? I've been wondering about these for a while. Thanks, -Brad

I did something similar with my '54, but used muratic acid to get the crud out of the bottom of the tank. No joke, I pulled about 8 pounds of stuff that looked like Silly Putty gone bad out of that tank. It was horrible. The acid killed one screwdrive, and two of those springy Mechanic's Fingers grabbers that you use to retreive bolts that fall in a bad place. The problem was that the acid weakened the spot welds that hold the baffles in the tank--the baffles broke free and fell over, which wasn't a big deal in and of itself, but every time I took a corner, stopped or stated, they slid around inside the tank...and scrapped up the sealer. Little shreds of sealer gave me fuel system problems the likes of which you've never seen--that stuff was constangly plugging the lines, fouling the fuel pump, and getting stuck in the carb. I finally bought a decent used tank, with no pin holes, and had it chemical stripped. This is critical: Get a little filter screen, or "sock" that goes over the end of the fuel pick-up tube inside the tank. That would have made life a lot better. -Brad

Actually, the engine ran when I pulled it out--I'd put over 10K on it myself. The problem is that it sat for 10 years with the previous owner, and I doubt he pulled the plugs and hosed off the inside of the cylinders with WD-40 or something to be sure the rings didn't score and gaul. When I would drive it, it ran great, but it always puffed on start up, but more importantly, it would puff when I'd take off from a light. Didn't burn much oil, though. I just suspect the cylinder walls will be scored a bit. The other problem is that the 264 was only 7.2:1 compression from the factory: a '56 322 with 10:1 fits in the same hole on the same mounts. If I do anything with the 264, I'll do a mild rebuild, boost compression and regrind cam, then stick it in a light Track roadster or something. But by the time I get to that, new pistons will be even more scarce, so I'd stick them on a shelf--if the price is right. (parked the car because the pilot bearing went away, allowing the trans input shaft to eat itself. I hate it when that happens.) -Brad

You guys are great--thank you. There was a set on ebay, and the dome looked similar to my 264 and 322, and I thought it might be a good idea to get them if the price was right. However, my 322 is a '56 model, and will probably need to be bored, so stock bore wouldn't work. The 264 is '54, and though I haven't been into it, I suspect the rings of being bad, which means it will more than likely need to be bored, too--even though it's only 35,000 miles. Thanks everyone for your help, -Brad

Anybody? Hello...somebody with a Master Parts book? (Insert chirping cricket sounds here). Beuler?...Beuler?

Dyna-free is gone. Thanks for the empty spot on the shop floor, Lamar! -Brad

Can anyone out there help me determine what these pistons fit? The part number of the piston/pin assembly seems to be PN 1390971 The number cast on the side of the piston itself is 1346425. I would greatly appreciate the help. Thanks, -Brad

Hey, if I forget to tell you when you come pick up the trans... On the leaking brake line fitting, the threads don't seal the deal, the threads hold the little nipple inside the fitting tight against the (DOUBLE!)flared end of the tubing. If it doesn't seat properly, it will leak. Sometimes the seat or the nipple can get galled, or other things. The usual fix is never to use pipe thread tape or crank down hard on the fitting! Simply loosen the fitting and retighten it a couple of times, then snug it down a final time. That comes from Inline Tube, and it's worked every time for me. On the generator, beware of getting a spray-can rebuild from your local shop: I had a shop "rebuild" mine for $95--ran great for about two months, then smoked one Friday night. The day after I ripped apart the rear end in my back-up vehicle. A call to the local "there since the dawn of time" parts store got me back on the road by two on Saturday afternoon: he had a truly rebuild generator on his shelf: Look inside at the windings through the end plates: a rebuilt generator should have new, shiney copper wires. My old one had grimey, obviously never touched windings. The "rebuild" was new brushes and black paint. The parts store model kept me trouble free on the road for two years (before the manual trans died). With a properly rebuilt generator, I didn't have any headlight dimming at stop lights, the car ran perfectly, and even ran the radio and A/C without problem. I'll put it back when the car is gone through. -Brad

I have a '56 Dynaflow trans for anyone who wants it. Free for the getting. It's attached to the back of a 322 on my shop floor, and I'm tired of tripping over it.I'm near Atlanta. I'll even loan you the tools to pull it and help get it in your vehicle (though I won't actually pay you to take it away!) -Brad

Anybody need a '56 Dynaflow? I've got one sitting on the back of a 322 in my garage, and I'd rather just trip over the engine, rather than the engine and the trans. Free for the taking! I'll even help you unbolt it and load it into your vehicle (though I will stop short of actually paying you to take it). -Brad

Hey Lamar, I've got a '56 trans you can have if you'd like it--the engine's out and the trans is attached to the back of it. You unbolt it and it's yours. I'm just up the road in Jefferson. The 322 it's attached to is destined for my '54 Special. Some day, anyway. If Lamar doesn't want that trans, anyone in the Atlanta area (or NW Georgia) that wants it is welcome to come and get it. A Nailhead is a lot easier to stash when a Dyna isn't hanging off the back of it! -Brad

Yup, Mopars are famous for that. A whole lot of guys snap off wheel lugs! Do you have bolts or studs and nuts? If you break off a stud, you can press it out of the steel hub behind the aluminum drum. Incidentally, Mopar also used left hand threads on ring gears in the rear end. A whole lot of guys snap those off, too. -Brad

Is the trans manual or automatic? Thanks, -Brad

I agree that "road worthy" shouldn't be a criteria for the above mentioned reasons. And as much as I dislike trailered cars, they usually are the nicest ones in attendance. I actually like it when guys trailer an under construction car to a show and display it as a work in progress. In fact, there's often more to be seen on a car like this. Certainly not roadworthy, but fun to look at! Not to stir the stink pot, but what if someone builds a car that didn't exist and powers it by a Buick? Like a pick up truck or something. Makes a phantom car as a "what if?" What about Max Bachlowski's Ol Yeller cars (excuse the spellings)? Obvious Buick history here, but a similar thing couldn't attend the show if non-buick bodied cars aren't allowed. I guess I'm up to about a buck's worth now. Sorry. -Brad