brad54

It does sound like you've got an original carb. I love the foot start on my '54, and will swap to a factory 2-bbl in the center of a 3x2 intake to keep it.<BR>For a trans, your options for an automatic are an original Dynaflow or an original Dynaflow. There are currently no adapters to put a late model trans behind them. I've done some research into this, and it seems to be a bit of a nightmare.<BR>I haven't found a good, one-stop source for everything: pistons usually come from Egge, valves from somewhere else, etc. In fact, it's to the point where I've thought about chasing down all the manufacturers and opening my own Nailheads specialty store.<BR>I'm going to send my cam to Competition Cams for a regrind. I've met them, toured the plant, worked with them, and know they will do a good job.<BR>Keep in mind that if you're putting the engine in a fairly light car (compared to a '56 Buick), any trans should hold up fairly well: You're not going to be making 500hp with the engine, and chances are you won't even race it that much. I'd keep it simple for now and use what you've got if you want to get the car on the road, but then keep your eyes open for a manual trans adapter plate to go with a beefier manual.<BR>-Brad

COOL! I'm going to the post office tomarrow to mail a bunch of stuff--I'll bring it and weigh it. <BR>Thanks for saving my conscious! I hate tossing old parts.<BR>-Brad

Good luck finding a manual trans! I've got two for the Buick, but they're also enclosed. And not known for their durability. I've got an article from Kar Kulture Deluxe about stacking trans adapters: the Nailhead to Flathead adapter you've got, then a Flathead to GM trans adapter. A custom-machined pilot bushing is needed.<BR>The flywheels are hard to find, but if you've got one, you're way ahead of the game.<BR>I've got an old Cragar Nailhead to Ford T-85 trans adapter, and a lead on a T-85 overdrive trans. I'll have to convert my driveshaft to open, which is a whole other can of worms.<BR>I've got an electric pump on mine, but I might replace it with a stocker--I don't like the sound of the electric pump, but it's a lot cheaper. <BR>Electric fans work well, but they don't exactly look right with a generator or on a period car. I'm putting in a bigger Roadmaster radiator, a factory fan shround, and a large diameter 6-blade fan. That should keep my car cool with the A/C on. Depending on how it all goes together, I'll probably add a clutch fan, because it can be hidden inside the shroud. But I've got a ton more room under my hood than you do.<BR>Think you're keeping your chrome valve and spark plug covers? There's a guy repoping the factory BUICK finned aluminum valve covers--they're kinda pricey, but cool. That might be the only deviation from my '59 time period I'm shooting for with my '54.<BR>A Pertronix ignition upgrade is also a good one (see discussion on this page).<BR>What carb do you have? The factory carb incorporated an electric circuit on the base that plugged into the starter system: when you press the pedal to the floor the first time with the ignition on, the car started. Look on the passenger side of the carb, at the bottom, and see if there's a pair of screw terminals to hook wires to it.<BR>-Brad

The whole top of the dashboard on my '54 comes out remarkably easily: a couple of screws under the frond edge, remove the bottom inside windshield garnish moldings, and a couple of screws holding the back of the dash top on, and pull it out. A '55 might be the same. Then you'd have easy access to the mechanism from the top side. Real easy access.<BR>If you go from the bottom, do youself a favor and pull out the front seat. It only takes about 15 minutes, and you will easily make up that time by being able to work easily laying on your back on the floor. Your back will also thank you. <BR>And footprints on the headliner are no fun when they're put there working under the dash.<BR>-Brad

I just read a post where someone mentioned the possibility that tilt steering columns were available on '55 Buicks. Can anyone shed more light on this?<BR>If yes, was it available on manual-shift cars? Was it easily changed, or did you have to have a mechanic set it one time and leave it?<BR>Thanks,<BR>-Brad

My valve covers also leaked oil down into the spark plugs. New gaskets fixed it.<BR>Generator should go on the passenger's side. I've got a mount if you need one.<BR>The stock engine mounts would be very easy to adapt to a hot rod chassis. CARS in New Jersey sells new mounts (908-369-3666, <A HREF="http://www.buick-parts.com)." TARGET=_blank>www.buick-parts.com).</A> I've dealt with them, and they're pretty decent. Stock compression on a '56 is something like 9.5:1 or 10:1--perfect for a modern hot rod motor that's driven a lot (the compression ratio is listed in the Motor's Manual). The fuel pump is a "dual action" pump: half pumps the fuel, the other half supplies vacuum for the windshield wipers--that's the line coming off the intake manifold. There are block-off plates available. <BR>Canister-style oil filters are still available at most places, without special ordering. My center bolt weeps, though. The oil filter housing is aluminum.<BR>Don't know about the starter ground. <BR>Another thing you might be interested in is the water pump and housing from a 401/425. They're made of aluminum. I've read in magazines and checked on this site that the later water pump housing has the same foot print (mating surface to the block) as the early housings. I've read that you can take a later pump and housing, and bolt them to the front of an earlier block (322) and run it. The two advantages are that you can get a water pump at NAPA cheaper (a 322 pump is a mail-order only), and a big ol' chunk of pretty aluminum on the front of your engine.<BR>Also, a '56 water inlet neck is aluminum and bolts on. I don't know when they made the change. My '54 is cast iron.<BR>What are you doing for a transmission? <P>-Brad

I still have a bumper jack for a '54 taking up space in my shop. I posted once before that it was going to go to a good home or be scrapped or someone else's home. Well, someone said they wanted it, so it didn't make it on that load to the dumpster, but the guy never called back. It's in pretty good shape, and would look great in someone's restored trunk (it needs the saddle that connects jack to bumper).<BR>Will someone PLEASE send me the cost of shipping for this thing--I know someone can use it. Anyone going to that BOP swap meet next month? Take it there--someone will need it!<BR>-Brad

Well, here are a couple of more sources: 1-800-MOTORHEAD has an awesome set of resource books, and has one for Buicks. It's basically a national directory for anyone selling anything that has anything to do with Buicks. It's all broken down into sections like engine parts, chassis, sheetmetal, salvage yards, literature vendors, etc... It's the best $25 I ever spent. Call him up and get one. Adam is a great guy, and his books are awesome. <BR>For progressive linkage, Offenhauser and Edelbrock both sell "generic" progressive linkage kits that will work, and Charlie Price down in Florida sells complete Tri-Power set ups. They're pricey (like $1,000), but complete with rebuilt carbs, tuned, linkage, intake manifold, and air cleaners. His number is 561-778-0809. Street Rod Builder or Super Rod magazine just did a big story on him. <BR>Rocker Arms Specialties can rebuild your rocker arm shafts if they need it. <P>Happy to help!<BR>-Brad

Amen! I had the generator "rebuilt" on my '54 for $70. To make a long story short, it died three months later and the day after the Buick became our only transportation for a while, and it was a Saturday. I called a Mom&Pop: "Yup, got one on the shelf--completely rebuilt, $35, no core. But be here before noon, because I'm going home early today." He then showed me that while mine might have had new brushes maybe a bearing and a great spray paint job, it wasn't really rebuilt. Then he showed me the new windings and armeture in his, and the shelf with "over $5000 in new windings" on it.<BR>The same guy blew the dust off the box for the new throw out bearing I bought for the '54, as well as asking me if I wanted "bonded or riveted brake shoes, because I've got both on the shelf. $15 a pair, no core." <BR>Mom & Pops--Can't beat 'em!

The point on the gears is correct. <BR>-Brad

Get yourself a factory shop manual for '56 Buicks. It'll have everything you need.<BR>An excellent companion manual is a Motor's Repair Manual. Don't get a Motor's Flat Rate manual--they don't help. I've found a lot of info in the Motor's that wasn't in the factory manual, too, so I'd say they're both of equal importance.<BR>Look in Hemmings for Literature Vendors or Dealers.<BR>The Factory Shop Manual will usually run around $45. I've seen the Motor's Manuals for anywhere between $10 and $50. I've put together a full set going all the way back to '35, thru the '80s. I got them one at a time by shopping swap meets for a whole season to get them. They're all in perfect shape, and I paid about $15 each, so you can be picky when you shop.<BR>These are much better than the Chilton's manuals, too.<BR>There is one covering your year in excellent shape at <A HREF="http://www.dalewilch.com." TARGET=_blank>www.dalewilch.com.</A> He wants $40 for it. You'll like that site--used speed parts.<BR>Also, call 1-800-MOTORHEAD and see if he's got a factory shop manual on CD. Those also run $45 from him.<BR>It all sounds kinda pricey, but just pretend you paid a little extra for your engine, and forget about it. You'll be glad you did.<BR>-Brad

AWESOME!<BR>I've got a pair of beautiful spark plug covers, and '53-54 valve covers that I'm going to chrome for my hot rod 322. (The earlier valve covers don't have breathers in them--they've got an embossed "emblem" that looks like a hood badge, sort of. It's an outline of the "Fireball V8" decal they put on those engines)<BR>I'm going with the Nailhead for the same reason, and I'm chroming the stock pieces because finned aluminum is everywhere. Especially the Offenhauser stuff. <BR>I do want to whittle a finned valley cover out of aluminum, and incorporate the oil fill tube. But it won't be polished, nor will the aluminum intake when I find one. Again, I don't want an Offy intake.<BR>One final tip: the bore on that 322 is 4 inches, plus any overbore--same as a small block Chevy. If you take it apart, I'd stick chrome moly piston rings in there: they're much, much kinder than the stock style cast iron pieces. Also, Totally Stainless offers a real nice, and very inexpensive, stainless steel engine bolt kit for the Nailheads. 800-767-4781. The whole kit cost me what I paid for Grade 8 bolts and washers for the intake and exhaust manifolds only.<BR>Lotsa luck!<BR>-Brad

The distributors on the 264/322 engines interchange.<BR>What is the interchange on the 364/401/425 engines?<BR>Thanks,<BR>-Brad

I had heard that the A/C pump did in fact have the higher capacity, but that when ordering one from a modern parts store (NAPA, etc.) that they just gave you one pump--whichever one they had, regardless of application, and therefore not to order one from them if you needed the A/C unit.<BR>I agree that it'd be more desirable to have the A/C version for higher flow. Especially in Florida.<BR>Now, an old Motor's Manual I have says not to rebuild these pumps (probably because they're aluminum) and to replace with new. Are the ones from parts stores remanufactured? Are the ones from Postons?

I rebuild the front end on my '54, and like an idiot forgot to regrease the king pins when I put it all back together. That car hunted all over the road looking for it's lane. It took me about two weeks before I realized my error. Added grease, and can now drive for five miles with my hands off the wheel and it would go nowhere but straight and true. It was amazing.

I know a Mopar guy who replaces the PRNDL12 plastic on cars he builds. He puts in a reverse pattern manual valve body, which then makes the PRNDL12 wrong. He cuts a piece of clear plexi and takes it to a local trophy shop and has them put new letters on it in the original font. When he's done, they read PRN12D, and he can manually shift the trans and go the "right" way. Something like that might work.<BR>Another option would be to go to a local sign shop and see if they can help you out. Have them scan in your originals, and make new screens for it.<BR>I know another guy who restores old radios. He has a photo taken of the original glass and plastic faces, then retouches the negative to clean them up. The negative is then used to create a new screen, and viola, new radio faces. This would also work. I'd think a sign shop would be your first lead for something like this. It's not easy, but if you do it, it'd be really cool!<BR>Good luck,<BR>-Brad

Could you tell us what V-6 uses these push rods? Anytime you can find new parts that fit our old Nail Heads, it's a good thing.<BR>Thanks,<BR>-Brad

On a 264/322, The spread between the left and right mounting holes on the intake manifold is 8-1/4 inches, center-to-center. The spread on the upper mounting bolts of the water crossover between the heads (thermostat housing) is 12 1/4-inches, center-to-center.I don't know these measurements on a 364, sorry.<BR>Two other quick and measurement-free visual clues are as follows: The 322 had round exhaust ports, and the exhaust manifold will be rounded at the head. The 364 had a rectangular exhaust port, and the manifold is also rectangular at the head.<BR>The biggest clue, though, is the spark plug covers. The 322 had stamped steel covers that ran the length of the head (front to back, just below the valve covers on the exhaust manifold side) that covered the spark plugs. The 364 didn't. These covers are almost always missing, but there are studs in the spark plug aread of the head: one right behind the very front spark plug, one just in front of the last spark plug. The studs are about 2-3-inches long, and you'll definately know them when you see them. If it doesn't have these studs coming out by the spark plugs, it's not a 322 (or 264). <BR>Hope this helps,<BR>-Brad

If you've always wanted a '56, and the car is complete, you have the service records available, it was well maintained, and there aren't a lot of little things like all the rubber weather stripping is cracked and needs to be replaced, all the stainless is dented, the pot metal trim is pitted, etc, it doesn't sound too bad.<BR>Figure on replacing the gas tank, fuel and brake lines, and convert to a dual reservoir master cylinder right off the bat.<BR>Also, don't look at buying an old car as an investment. You buy a new one and are happy to get 1/2 your purchase price back in a few years. An old car is going to depreciate to a certain point, but it generally won't go below that. If you buy it for 6K and put 2-4K into it, in a few years it'll probably still be worth between 6-8 grand. But you'll have a lot more fun with it than an SUV.<BR>Also, a friend of mine swears that no matter how good the car is, after you buy it, you will always put another $1000 worth of nickle and dime stuff into it, and I have yet to prove him wrong. He also swears that if you figure something is going to take X-dollars to repair/replace/fix, double that estimate. Haven't proven that one wrong yet either.<BR>-Brad

Could somebody give me a little more info on that new water pump from Postons? Is it aluminum as the originals, and does he have the ones for A/C applications?<BR>(I know I could call him myself, but more people will get the info on this post if someone can answer it).<BR>-Brad

I'm asking too much? Or nobody needs one right now?<BR>-Brad

I just traveled to Minnesota to do a couple of magazine stories for just exactly this. George Iverson restores pot metal and stainless, and I learned a lot from him. Pot metal is a pain. He strips it to the base metal, drills each and every pit all the way through the part, has it copper plated, silver soldiers the holes and grinds it smooth, copper plates it again for inspection, then has it finished. Not cheap, but it is beautiful to see a before/after. His number is 800-325-0480.<BR>As for bumpers, I went to North Star Plating in Brainerd, MN and did a story with them, too. All they do is bumpers, and they supply the OEs with truck bumpers. They've got a complete shop with several guys, pheumatic and hydraulic presses and hammers and templates just to straighten old bumpers, and a couple of rooms to patch, grind, regrind, sand and polish the bumpers, plus a huge chroming operation. All they do is bumpers, and they do them perfectly. Best of all, the price is CHEAP! He quoted me $350 for a one-piece '57 Chevy front bumper--those usually go for considerably more, and that's not the good-guy price for a magazine guy--that's John Q Public's price. It's well, well worth sending it to them. Their number is 218-829-4063. Their quality control is second to none, and they ship all bumpers with a generous warranty. <BR>I found both of these companies through a resto shop that is one of the best in the country, and it's who he uses. I won't send anything elsewhere.<BR>Good luck<BR>-Brad

Ever seen a '72 Centurion, beige with a black vinyl top, cruising around up there? It's probably looking a little worn out by now. If you ever spot it, contact me--it's my first car, and I shouldn't have sold it. (sold in '93)<BR>I know Toledo's a big city, but it's not that big! (I grew up in Sylvania).<BR>Brad<BR>(419-885-3244: my parents' phone number, just in case!)

I'd also recommend buying a manual of some type--I've got a library of vintage Motors manuals which is great. You can also go to any big auto parts store or book store and get a book on rebuilding specific types of carbs. The books aren't expensive (maybe $20-$30, but cheaper than a new carb!), and will, if nothing else, give you a lot more confidence as you tackle this project.<BR>The first carb I ever took apart was a Holley when I was 17. I'm 30 now, and finally threw out the carcas box of parts that had followed me to three states. Then when I was 19, I rebuilt the Q-jet on my '72 Centurion. Had a couple parts left over, but it never seemed to run poorly (well, it did, but that was always ignition). 3rd time was the charm. Bought a book, read some magazine articles, cleaned off the work bench and kitchen table, and rebuilt a Holley. And it didn't intimidate me a single bit--seemed as natural as putting on my socks. Didn't have parts left, and it runs nice.<BR>Good luck!

I've never had any bad experiances with NOS parts--I don't buy them. I don't mean that in a bad way, I just don't have show car.<BR>I've met a ton of guys who pay the big bucks for the parts, only to be amazed when the fender doesn't bolt up because it was spot welded wrong from the factory.<BR>I like the NORS for "New Old Replacement Stock." I think that's a very fair and accurate defination of an old replacement part--no surprises.<BR>I think it's the industry standard, or at least the perception, that to be truely New Old Stock, it's gotta have the right dates, been manufactured when the car was still current, and comes in an original old box.<BR>For instance, Mopar Performance was selling freshly minted 727 Torque Flite trans cases, and they were "New." They found two containers of them in a warehouse recently, manufactured 3 decades ago, and those are NOS. A new trim ring for a Rallye wheel is still available from them. It's New (and faithfull to the orignal). One in a 30 year old box would be NOS.<BR>A door glass made yesterday, date coded, and sold by GM Restoration Parts wouldn't be NOS.<BR>Now, if you find a properly dated door glass from a vendor, and it doesn't have a box, how do you know when it was made? Any repro parts, taken out of a box, could easily be sold as "NOS--the box was just too damaged." Then the guy who pays that big money because he had to have NOS is getting rooked because it's a currently available, correct part that he paid an unnecessary premium for.<BR>Mustang wheels are a great example: you can get them brand new, dated coded and everything. And they're indistinguishable from the original. I literally know a guy who paid $800 for a Ralley wheel in a box. And the wheel was rusty and needed to be replated and repainted. A new repro wheel would have cost him about $225, date codes and all. It's the box.