brad54

How about this defination of NOS: Not Originally Satisfactory. As in, the parts stayed on a shelf for 40 years because they didn't fit to begin with.<BR>What most people don't realize is that as cars were being built, they were meant to appear perfect when they rolled off the line. If a body panel had a ding in it, or the stamping wasn't dead on, then they went into a pile, were boxed and sent to authorized service dealers to be used as replacement parts, where body work could be done to make them right. If the part didn't fit at the dealership, it was stacked in the corner or thrown back in a box and set back on the shelf, and another was pulled and put on the car. <BR>By the end of the model year, a lot of the tooling was wearing out but there was no justification for making new expensive tooling. I've seen many NOS pieces of trim that are wavy or wrinkled in certain areas because the stamping die was worn out. It's really neat when you see an "inferior" original piece next to a NOS piece, and the original looks better!<BR>The worst is NOS electrical equipment.<P>On NORS, I've heard that described as "New Old Removed Stock," meaning the part was put on a car, removed, but the original box was disgarded. The hobby standard (at least on the side of the guys actually doing the resto) is NOS comes in a factory OE box. That box seems to be the key. I've heard a lot of guys say they "paid $800 for a factory box" usually to have a part inside it that needs to be restored. Which usually costs the same as restoring the part that's already on the car!<BR>If it's a service part from an outside supplier (like a TRW ball joint,) it's just "old." Really. I have gone to the mom&pop parts house down the road and have bought a throw out bearing, wheel bearings, wheel cylinders and brake shoes for my '54 that had an inch of dust on the boxes--they'd all been there for 20-plus years. Are they NOS, NORS, etc? No, they're just "old." The advantage is that those parts will usually fit because they were built during the period for cars that were still current. Just like if you bought a starter or part from Pep Boys for a Dodge Dakota. You'd expect it would bolt right on.<BR>How about "NSOS"--Never Sold Old Stock?<BR>I realize a lot of people won't be pleased with my outlook on NOS parts, but it's been influenced by conversations with judges, enthusiasts, and some of the best restorers out there.<BR>Go ahead and snatch up all that expensive NOS stuff--that means there's more cheap stuff available for me.

Please call me regarding the stick shift trans. Call collect if you like. My number is (863) 858-1414.<BR>Thank you,<BR>-Brad

Nope, no sheetmetal plate. Sorry.<BR>What usually happens with that plate--do they rust out?<BR>I guess I could always make a lamp out of one of them...

Scott, I don't know what model they're from. I've got a pair of fronts, and they're for a two door.<BR>I haven't taken the covers off yet, but I will shortly. Sorry didn't respond earlier--was out of town for 10 days.<BR>Make me an offer on the front bench--chances are I can't refuse!<BR>-Brad

No mater how well I've seen them mask off an interior, I've never seen them do it well enough to keep body filler dust out. Even if there isn't any on your car, it's being used on the one next to yours in the shop.<BR>Also, if the interior and glass isn't in the car, they can do a much better job painting it--in the window channels, door jambs, etc. When you do the electrical, you'll have to pull up the carpet in a lot of areas to run the wires to the back of the car. Also, whether your interior is in or not, always take the extra 20 minutes to remove the front seat when doing electrical work--that way you can lay flat on the floor, instead of practicing your yoga and contortionist practice.<BR>Finally, if the mechanical is done, you can drive it anywhere. If the electrical is done, you don't have to worry about anything shorting out or causing a fire while getting there. If the paint is done, you look good driving in. If the interior is still in rough shape, you can throw a blanket over the seats and still enjoy the car and tell everyone at the shows "the interior is the last thing to do." Best of all, if the whim for a picknick or trip to the beach hits, you've already go the blanket handy.<BR>-Brad<BR>Oh yes, if you didn't convert to a dual reservoir master cylinder, you should. It's a lot safer, and generally a bolt-in deal. Call Master Power Brakes and get one. I speak from experiance.

George Iverson in Minnesota is an artist with this stuff. He's done more concours award winning cars than you can shake a stick at. <BR>952-932-9026.<BR>-Brad

Okay, so here's the problem: I've got three, count 'em, three cast iron 2bbl intake manifolds for 322 engines. One is a '54 264, two are '56 322s. I've already got a 4bbl carb and intake, and I'm searching for a non-offy 3x2 for the 322 I'm building. What do I do with the old ones?! I hate to scrap them, but they're too big to be book ends.<BR>I told my six year old he could earn some money if he strips the stuff off them (carb, etc), and lugs them into my truck and out of the truck at the recycling center, and I'll match what they give him. He hauled in a pair of iron drums from the garbage so he could get the quarter (gotta love the go-gettum attitude of a six year old!)<BR>Anyone need one before they get scrapped?<BR>-Brad

Year one has a factory assembly manual, but they start with the '68 model year. It's 30 bucks, but they do have a zero hassle return policy. If it won't work for you they'll refund it no questions asked. This might help if you can't find the specific book you're looking for in a quick time frame.<BR>-Brad

Howdy neighbor!<BR>Front discs, or 12-inch aluminum drums? If it's drums and they're cheapcheap, I'll come over and get them. I also need a set of rear 12-inch backing plates.<BR>I realize this means the car won't roll, but I'm hoping we could yank them off when the car goes on the trailer for the last time. There's one in a junkyard here in Lakeland, but I don't relish the idea of laying on broken tile under the car to pull the rear end apart for the backing plates.<BR>Thanks,<BR>-Brad

Well, considering I make my living writing for custom and hot rod magazines...<BR>I guess I can understand someone's worry when selling a car they spent a lot of time restoring, but here are a couple of things to think about:<BR>One: if it's not yours, you don't have the right to tell other people what to do with it. I saw this a ton in the Mopar segment of the hobby. Those guys are nuts, and used to border on militant. If you want a car to be a certain way, then buy it and keep it the way you want. Otherwise, stay quiet.<BR>Two: Custom cars are generally worth more money. Don't beleive me? Price a restored Model A versus a Model A hot rod.<BR>Three: A rodder's money is the same color and spends the same as a resto guy's money. If you need to sell a car, no sense limiting your market.<BR>-Brad

Hello fellow car nuts,<BR>My name's Brad, and I work for Buckaroo Communications on Super Rod, Street Rod Builder, and several other magazines. I'm currently working on a story on Odd-Ball Engines, and am totally ignorant about Olds motors (do know the J-2 was factory Tri-power, but that's about it).<BR>Could you guys point me in the right direction on who to talk to regarding vintage Olds Rocket engines, speed parts, displacements, years, etc? I'd greatly appreciate any help on locating sources for this info.<BR>And please don't take the odd-ball reference personally--I like Buick Nail Heads myself, and I've got an aluminum Slant Six Mopar engine on the floor in the garage that I go out and get all starie eyed about at least twice a week.<BR>You can e me directly at brad.ocock@verizon.net, and I'll check the posts here.<BR>Thank you very much for your help,<BR>-Brad Ocock<BR>Technical Editor<BR>Buckaroo Communications

Mark, I'll check the seats a little more thoroughly on Saturday and get back to you. (Probably should bite the bullet and strip off the nasty covers and padding--not a job I or my alergies are looking forward to!)<BR>Busterwive--Um... Still have the plan, but it's on hold for a bit. A clutch failure wiped out the trans inpuyt shaft, and I can't see putting a motor with bad rings and rear main leak back in, so...well, Doo-doo snowballs (verb). I figured for the same money of rebuilding a 322 I could get my '57 Chevy wagon on the road, so the Buick is dead in the driveway and driving the neighbors nuts.<BR>I'm moving to Atlanta in March, so the plan is to get the wagon running, then start hauling stuff north. The Buick will be started as soon as I get settled in. But at least I've got almost everything I need to do the car the way I want! Just need a Ford T-85 3spd OD trans (have one in sight), and a factory trunk-mount A/C system, and a '57 Studebaker front bumper. <BR>-Brad

I have two front bench seat frames for 2drs, and a rear seat for a convertible. These came out of a '56 Buick, but should drop in place on an Olds. The fronts do not have any side skirts or trim.<BR>I'd like $200 each for the seats, but will take offers. I'm moving in March, and don't want to load them.<BR>I live in Florida and can deliver to Tampa, Orlando, and North along I-4 to Atlanta, Ga.<BR>I don't check this site, so please contact me directly at: brad.ocock@verizon.net<BR>Thank you,<BR>-Brad

I've got two 2-dr front bench seats.<BR>Also have one convertable rear seat.<BR>I'm also posting this on an Olds website, and will be e-baying them if they don't leave via this post. If you need them, let me know.<BR>I'm located in Central Florida, and can deliver to Tampa, Orlando, and Atlanta, Georgia.<BR>-Brad<BR>brad.ocock@verizon.net

A couple of months ago, someone posted a picture on one of the threads showing their blown Nail Head on an engine stand--Wanna<BR>be famous (or at least semi-note worthy?)<BR>I'm doing a story on odd-ball motors for Super Rod magazine, and I need some supporting art work for it. If the owner of that engine could contact me (or anyone else with a really bitchin' radical NailHead), I'd like to talk to you about using a picture of it in the story.<BR>Thanks,<BR>-Brad Ocock<BR>Technical Editor<BR>Super Rod, Street Rod Builder, Truck Builder, Chevy Rumble<BR>brad.ocock@verizon.net<BR>(863)853-9881

A couple of months ago, someone posted a picture on one of the threads showing their blown Nail Head on an engine stand--Wanna be famous (or at least semi-note worthy?)<BR>I'm doing a story on odd-ball motors for Super Rod magazine, and I need some supporting art work for it. If the owner of that engine could contact me (or anyone else with a really bitchin' radical Nail Head), I'd like to talk to you about using a picture of it in the story.<BR>Thanks,<BR>-Brad Ocock<BR>Technical Editor<BR>Super Rod, Street Rod Builder, Truck Builder, Chevy Rumble<BR>brad.ocock@verizon.net<BR>(863) 853-9881

Prepping the manifolds, or prepping the oven and making sure your wife isn't around?

Miked, that is EXACTLY what I want to do on the 322 I'm building for my '54 Special. What carbs did you source for the outboards on the 3x2? I was going to find a pair of 2-bbls from 55-57 Chevys. Any thoughts?<BR>Also, anyone happen to have a Weiand 3x2 for a 322? Or a 3x2 by anyone other than Offy for the 322?<BR>-Brad

I've had exhaust manifolds chemically stripped, and I've also cleaned them up with a course wire cup on a right angle electric grinder. If you're looking to do it in an afternoon, the electric grinder is a good way to go, but the chemical stripping is really the most thorough--cleans inside and out, and you won't look like you spent the day in a chimney.<BR>Don't sand blast them--it removes metal from rust pits, making them bigger. I personally think glass beading also does that, at least a little bit. You won't lose casting numbers, etc. with the chem strip.<BR>For coating, the POR-15 is real good, and ceramic coating would be the best, but it's usually pricey.<BR>Another tip would be to have the mating surface of the manifold decked perfectly flat by an engine machine shop, and the same for the heads if they're off the car. This allows you to put them back on with no gaskets--the factory didn't use manifold gaskets, there's no reason you should have to. Just smooth and square the mating surfaces.<BR>-Brad

The book publishers advertise all the time in car mags, but you should be able to go to your local book store and order them. I don't know which publisher has one for the AFBs, but it'll be one of the following: HPBooks, Motor Books International (MBI) or Car Tech.<BR>Also, very often speed parts shops or the local Pep Boys, AutoZone, whatever will have them. I'd go there first.<BR>As for the rebuild kit, I don't know. Dial up the parts stores, try a little mom&pop parts store, then go to the Buick suppliers if you don't have any luck with the local stuff. Again, I'd think those would be readily available locally.<BR>Also, get a big ol' can of carb cleaner and some rubber gloves. A very small brash wire brush is also a good thing to have on hand.<BR>Finally, I don't think you'd need any, but if there are any specialized tools for the AFB (the Holley had some clutch-head screws), take the time to track down a Snap-on truck and buy the special tool. The clutch head screw driver from Snap-on only cost me $12, but it saved a ton of time and messed up screws. Call a local service center and ask when the Snap-on or MAC truck comes around.<BR>Lotsa luck,<BR>-Brad

It shouldn't be that hard. I never tackled a carb before but rebuilt a Holley a couple of weeks ago and it turned out real well.<BR>Very, very important, however, is getting a book to go by. There are several out there--then you'll be out the cost of the rebuild kit and a book (about $12), but still way ahead of buying a new carb.<BR>Good Luck!<BR>-Brad

I'd really rather not break up the set of four decent ones.<BR>If you buy them all, you'd have a set of spares in case you lose one! Or you could keep the one you like the best, and sell the others for whatever, and maybe even come out ahead!<BR>(I lost a perfect hubcap on my '54, and found a set of five, so now I have two sets of 4--I'm going to send the lesser ones out to have them professionally restored, and then I'll have a set of very very nice ones and a set of perfect ones.)

I've got a stack of '56 Buick full hubcaps. Four of them are really excellent, the fifth needs a little bit of work to be really nice (two small dents), and the last four all will require a bit of talent to make nice, but are definately repairable.<BR>I'll break up the whole mess if you only want to buy the five that need the work, otherwise the whole lot is $100, plus shipping.<BR>-Brad

Have an odd request: If anyone has an aluminum front drum that has fins broken or is busted up, I need one. A company I know does chemical stripping of car parts, and the solution they use on steel actually disolves aluminum--I want to throw in an otherwise useless aluminum drum and see what the iron liner looks like with the aluminum stripped away.<BR>If you can help me, drop me a line at brad.ocock@verizon.net.<BR>Thanks,<BR>-Brad

I'm trying to find a set of front drums and a pair of rear backing plates, but really cheap. <BR>I know this makes the car a lawn ornament, but if you're going to haul it to the junk yard, any chance you can pull them right before the forklift takes it off the trailer?<BR>Thanks,<BR>-Brad