George Rohrbach

I sent you a pic of the map. To get to RNG-21 go in the main entrance of the Red Field (from the White Field) Make a left. I am in RNA 65 to 67. You owe me a lobster !

At this time I am working on front end stuff, attaching kingpins and control arms, etc.

Replacing bolts on 20's and 30's cars, with modern bolts. I understand (I think I do), the markings on the modern bolts. But what sort of strengths were the old ones? I am trying to figure out just what to replaces them with. For example: new stainless bolts can have a tensile strength of 85,000 psi, compared to grade 8 - 150,000 psi. How can you figure out what old bolt needs to be replaced by what? Or is 85,000 psi, already more than the old metallurgy produced, so it makes no difference?

The big <span style="font-weight: bold">Hershey</span> meet is coming very soon. October 9-12. If there is something special you might want me to bring, contact me quick, as I am loading the truck. <span style="font-style: italic"> [color:"blue"] Antique Studebaker Row</span> [color:"black"] (the ASC tent and at least 7 vendors) this year is in the Red Field. Paved and no mud. Location is first row to the right as you enter the Red from the White Field, main entrance. Spaces RNA 65-79. Visit the ASC tent, and your favorite antique Stude vendors. The famous [color:"blue"] ASC Hershey Barbecue [color:"black"] is Friday at 5:30. Look for the old script <span style="font-style: italic"> [color:"blue"] Studebaker</span> [color:"black"] banner!

Give this guy a try: Iowa Glass 3801 Beverly Road Sw. P.O.Box 122 Cedar Rapids IA. 52406-0122 1-800-553-8134

John, Glad you were able to make a fairly quick sale, once you made the tough decision. I hope you still hang around the forums and stay active in the ASC. Your knowledge,experience, and willingness to share it, are something that I hope we don't lose. Thanks for your past help and contributions to the "old" Studebaker gang.

Ok Rick, What is it this time?

Thanks for the help. I decided to ream till I can just push the pin through by hand. I would have tried to go to .0005", but I need to buy a more accurate micrometer. Might be about the same.

The food people that had the stand near me the last few years, told me how much they pay for their spot. It was so high that I had trouble believing the figuire. They said, although their volume of sales were very high, their spot cost them so much, that they would not be back this year. They claimed a lot of work and outlay for a little final result. I certainly don't mean to chase you away, as it sounds like I would stop at your stand! But make sure you find out what it will cost for your setup.

I am in the process of installing new kingpins in my '35 Commander. Does anyone know what the specs are for the clearance between the kingpins and bushings? I need to know to ream the bushings.There is nothing listed in my Studebaker books. My guess is that it used to be one of those things that people "just knew". By the way, these are the type that are oiled, not greased. Thanks,

I would certainly try to show up. <BR>Great idea.

Give Sandy Olson a try at:<BR><A HREF="http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/" TARGET=_blank>Olson's Gaskets</A><BR> Good luck!

Here is a site that shows what you are looking for! And they sell the paint too.<P><A HREF="http://autocolorlibrary.com/" TARGET=_blank>Autobodydepot</A><p>[ 07-22-2002: Message edited by: George Rohrbach ]

Phone number for Jahns Pistons is (714) 579-3795.

I posted this on the Studebaker Fourm, but you might not have seen it. This was for myself....I don't make them for sale.<BR>The new rubber spring bumpers are finished. They came out great! I used Flexane 94 by Devcon. It is a pourable, two part urethane rubber, that cures at room temperature. First built the old wrecked one up with wax to the correct shape and made an indexed mold with dental die stone (sort of a very<BR>hard plaster). Then took off old broken down rubber from the mounting plate, sandblasted the plate and used 2 special primers that make the Flexane bond to it. Mixed and poured the rubber and reindexed the metal plate in the mould.<BR>The pic shows the two moulds and two of the finished bumpers. They are about 2 1/2" by 1 1/2" by 1 1/2".--<BR> <p>[ 06-09-2002: Message edited by: George Rohrbach ]

Of course there is a market. Might I suggest posting on the newsgroup alt.autos.studebaker ?<BR> If you aren't familar with newsgroups, email me and I will give you directions.<BR> By the way, I think the 57 engines would have to be Studebaker.

Found this one on another site:<BR>For_Sale 1951 2R 15 Pickup Geoff Beasley<BR>geoff.beasley@jus.gov.on.ca<BR>519 666 0544 <BR>1951 pickup tuck originally from Tennessee and now in London Ontario Canada.( 2 hours east of Detroit ). Body and Paint done 10 ytears ago and little used since. New oak side rails,British Racing Green paint and Arctic white wheels. New fuel system (c0mplete). Small 6 engine has never been touched but needs Rings (?). Asking $ 4500 USD. I can send pictures if requested. Will consider interesting trades. <BR>Date Added: Monday, June 3, 2002 <BR> Hope this helps.

<A HREF="http://www.antiquestudebakerclub.com/identify_your_car.htm" TARGET=_blank>Antique Studebaker Club of America - Identify Your car!</A><p>[ 05-30-2002: Message edited by: George Rohrbach ]

I am going to start making them myself tomorrow! I'll use that tecchnique that Bill Cannon came up with years ago, and published in the ASC Review, and I think in Skinned Knuckles.

Some of you may know that I am working on my own 1935 Commander (1B) and Dictator (2A).<BR> I need part # 183986 (1514-1 on Front Spring drawing Plate 15-3).<BR>This is the rubber bumper that keeps the Steering Knuckle Support Arm from bottoming out. There are 4 per car, so I could use up to 8!<BR> Thanks<p>[ 05-20-2002: Message edited by: George Rohrbach ]

Herb,<BR> The fact that a 6 volt bulb lights up just means that the generator is putting out "some" voltage. You need to measure the output with a volt meter to see what the voltage actually is. Also measure the battery voltage, with everything turned off.<BR>The voltage the generator puts out must be higher than the battery. If not then you must adjust the 3rd brush on the generator to make it so.

Steve,<BR> I agree with you. Ebay has made available car items (that people who are not car people had), with car people who wanted that item. Yes, you need to be a little more careful, perhaps, with someone who is selling something, that they really know nothing about.<BR> It also puts people from very far away together, that otherwise would not have made contact. By the way...it jsut so happens that I have bought 2 items from you on ebay!

I am not sure if your truck is the same as the Studebaker's are from those years. The voltage output from the generator uses what is called 3rd brush regulation. You may have to move the 3rd brush to get a higher voltage out. Perhaps something over 7.2 volts so that the voltage coming out is higher than the battery voltage.

Hi,<BR> Go to this page on the Antique Studebaker site, and it will give you the numbers that you need to identify it! <A HREF="http://www.antiquestudebakerclub.com/identify_your_car.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.antiquestudebakerclub.com/identify_your_car.htm</A>

Thought you might like to know that the machine shop told me that they were able to drive out the cam bearings without damage.<BR> They have some sort of a driver that they can change the size on.<BR> George Rohrbach<p>[ 04-24-2002: Message edited by: George Rohrbach ]