Fred Rawling

The rims for the standard are aproximately 3 3/4 inches wide and the Masters are aproximately 4 1/2 inches wide over all.

I sent some parts to Canada and the buyer had me send them through the post office to avoid the cost of a customs broker. You might look into that.

Memory lane in California has the filters for the 51. They want something like $50. each. They have an e-mail address in their ads in the Bugle.

I have a 56 oil filter can and the head that attaches to the block. Do you need one or do you need the filter elememt. I may be able to give you a modern replacement number.

Buick used nickel plating until 1928. Therefore, I would say that if they were plated and they were made of brass, they were nickel plated. If I remember correctly, the BCA does not deduct points for chrome plating when nickel was the origional plating. Check the judging guide if this is important to you. <P>In addition, I would recomend that you plate it the same as the other bright work on the car so it looks uniform.

I would be inclined to take it to the local auto glass shop and have them do it. I would rather pay the labor than take a chance on breaking it or getting it in with a leak.

I think you got the name of Carl Ana from me. I think he passed away quite a while ago. Barco Electric in Bellflower seems pretty good. They did a couple of generators for me. I only had a little trouble with the 28 generator but they fixed it.

I may have a few used ones laying around from a 73 Chevy Impalla. Will they work and are you interested in used ones?

I have over 70000 miles on a 28 master and have not had to change the fan to keep it cool. The problem is somewhere else.<P>If your engine was rebuilt and you set the rod bearings at less than .002, you may have caused the overheating problem. I saw that happen to John Gertskemper on his 31 one time. We were on a tour and he had to sit it out while the engine cooled down and then take another let of the trip until the engine heated up again. <P>If your carb is adjusted correctly, with the engine at idle, you should be able to pull the accelerator rod back, fast, and the engine should accelerate without faultering. If it does not, turn in the air valve a notch or two until it does accelerate with out faultering. E-mail me if you are still having problems. This looks like a tough one but I will brain storm on it with you. I only get on this forum once in a while as you can see from the date of my last reply to you.<p>[ 01-09-2002: Message edited by: Fred Rawling ]

I have a name in California if you get that desprate. He makes Model T radiators from scratch, has worked on 5 or 6 early Buick radiators for me and rebuilds the oil coolers on 31-35 Buicks. In short, I highly recomend him. E-mail me if you want a quick reply.

I should have read the rest of your post before answering. <P>Try Bob's Automobilia for the gears. He had them at one time. There is a felt seal at the rear of the hub that is supposed to keep the oil in the hub and the spiral cut on the shaft is supposed to push the oil back away from the seal to help stop leaks.<P>I had an aluminum insert machined for the inside of my fan hub and added a new shaft with a sealed ball bearing pressed into the aluminum and removed the oil and mess fromt he inside. There was an article in the Bugle some years back on doing this. <P>Also, BCA Member Jack Corless in California used to do these conversions before he sold his metal working tools for wood working tools. Maybe he can give you some pointers on the conversion. He is in the BCA roster.<P>If you have to have a felt seal, buy some hard felt and some hole punches and punch one out. Besure that the i.d. is a tight fit and oil it up good after you install it in the hub. You can probably make punches out of old water pipe.

I have had the sane problem. I bought brass ones that were a little oversized and turned them down on the lathe. I found them at an engine rebuilding business. Brass ones are a little hard to find.

If the windshield is flat glass, any auto glass company can cut one for you.

I sold a nice clean one at a swap meet last year for $50.00. I had looked around a bit before putting it out and that seemed to be about what they were going for. The $160. price sounds like an e-bay price.

I am using the origional 1950 rims on my 1950 Roadmaster with steel belted radials and have not had any problems. <P>I heard that you had to shot peen the rims to make them servicable with radials but I already had gone through one set of radial tires and was half way throught the second set with no problems so I just left them on the car. I drive the car every day and use it on the freeway at 65 mph. I expect that if there was going to be failure, it would have happened by now. <P>Are 49 rims made the same as 50 rims?<P>I put radial tire tubes in my radials because the rim may not be air tight as on rims made for radial tires.

I am interested in seeing the list of what you have for sale. I tried your e-mail on this sight and it is not working<BR>Fred Rawling

That sounds good. I have a 1927-27, a 1928-51 converted to a pick up that I use every week.

Do you know if it is the same as the switch from a 64 dynamic 88?

4 door dynamic 88, complete except for trans. Engine needs rebuild. One rear door window broken. Interior is redish brown and in good condition. There are a few minor dents in the corners of the front fenders. No broken light lenses. I would consider parting it out.

My 1950 and 1952 chasis parts books do not list part #927707. The 1952 book shows 928892 fits 1950 all, 1951-50-70. The lense has a part number on it also. 5939073 fits 1950-52 ser 50-70 and 5940010 fits 1951-52 ser 40. I hope this helps.

I do not think anyone is making wood kits for any of the early Buicks. I think you either have to do it yourself or find a carpenter shop to do it for you.

In case you are still looking for the information, here is what the 1930 Master parts book has to say:<P>Under group 8.003, part # 159039 Hood, 1923-54-55---maroon, red and gold stripe on louvers.<P>That is all it says. There is no information about the order from front to back that they are placed on the louvers

I had to replace the brake light switch on my 50 Roadmaster. I found the switch at the local antique Ford parts supplier. The switch is the same and that was the only place I could find one without ordering from out of the area.

I use 735 r 15 on my 50 Buick Roadmaster. It runs great. I have used passenger car and truck tires. The truck tires are a little wider tread and a shade harder to turn getting out of a parking place. The tire shop said that that size was the biggest that I could get. I have used up one set already and am on the second set now. I drive it daily.

I have the same question about 1950 Buicks. <BR>Someone please answer.