Fred Rawling

I have a left and right side top iron bracket or brace for the rear of a 1928 model 55. The casting numbers which are also the part numbers are 207894 & 207895. They are in excellent condition and were sand blasted, primed and painted. The paint is chipped from kicking around in boxes in the garage. $25.00 for the pair post paid in the U.S.

The spark plug cover, rocker cover, starter, generator, distributor, fan hub and blades are black, the fuel pump is cad plated. I do not know about the carburetor. Everything else is geen unless you had one of the engines that did not pass muster and was sent back for repair. After the repair, they were painted all black.

The last early 4 cyl. Buicks were 1922 to 1924. What model do you have and what year is it? I may be able to help you better define what you need.

The casting numbers on the end pieces are 1288764 & 12788765 which are the part numbers. The application is 1936-39 60,80,90 ser., 1940 60,70,80,90 ser., 19042 60,70 ser., and 1846-52 70 ser.. The casting number on the center section is 1313891 which is different from the part number and fits all above applications except that it does not fit 1952 70 ser.. <P>While I am at it, the manifold valve body casting numbert is 1301196 again different from the part number. This application is 1942 60,70 ser., 1946 to 51 70 ser.<P>I have one each of the end pieces in good used condition for $85.00 for the pair. The only problem with buying pieces is that they may not fit right into the other parts without machining or sleeving them. You can get new reproduction ends and centers from Bobsautomobilia.com for $189.00 each and the valve body for $195.00 and they fit together nicely.

I am sorry to say that I do not have anything that looks like it could be what you need.

I am not real smart on these late cars. I gave my best guess. I hope someone else comes up with an answer for you.

I think that you can find one by advertising on the buy/sell forum. If you are a BCA member put an ad in the "Bugle".

I will dig through my stuff tomorrow or Monday.

Fred Rawling (562)867-7803 I am here now and will be until around 11:00 p.m. tonight or from 7:00 a.m. until 9 on Sunday. <BR>If you miss me, leave me a message, or,send me your e-mail address. <P>E-mail me at home fredrawling@mediaone.net.<P>This is different from the e-mail address that I have on this forum.

Do you have the thick insulator gasket between the carb and manifold? I have a 50 Roadmaster that I drive daily. Last week it was in the 80's here and I had no trouble with it. It has a Carter Carburetor on it.

I have both left and right side mount fenders for 1930 ser 40. What series do you have? <BR>Where are you located. Shipping is a bit of a problem because of the length.

Thank you for the reply

I have some 63 Riviera pieces. What does the bracket look like and does it have any numbers on it.

I was told that the cover plate on the back of the carrier was deeper on 54-55 than on the earlier ones. I have not been able to verify that. The biggest problem that I had in changing the ring and pinion in my 50 Roadmaster was seperating the pinion gear from the drive shaft. The second most difficult problem was getting the run out at the transmission end of the drive tube to factory specs. I had to take it to a drive line service because I could not get it right with what I have to work with.<P>Another problem that surfaced was a leaking torque ball. There is a section in the shop manual that tells how to adjust it but it is in the standard trans section and I never saw it. If it is not adjusted correctly, it pumps trans oil out.

Around 1982 I bought a 35 Buick in Indiana and drove it home, or to half way between Fort Worth and Dallas when the timing gear went out. I had a roster and tried to call the club members in the area to find parts. The phone numbers were all unlisted, or there was no one home. I finally rented a u-haul truck and tow bar to get it home. I suspect that if there are not phone numbers listed the roster may not be as usefull as we hope.

All in good condition:<P>1934 6A Copper/Asbestos/Steel, Victor#904 $65.00<P>Victor # 899, new # 773 for<BR>27-30 Dictator, 29-30 Commander, 31-32 653,654, 1933 656. Trucks: GN30-40 1929-31, 1929-30 S, 1931 ?, 1932-34 S2, S8, S6, 1922-34 S4, 3 Ton T2, 33-34, T4, T6, T8 1934, 1935 1T2, 1T6 Copper/Asbestos/Copper $65.00<BR>My notes are a little messed up. Write if you think it is close to what you need and I will check my gasket Catalogue to be sure I have what you need.<P>Erskin 6 1927-29 Copper/Asbestos/Steel Victor # 659 $65.00

Head gaskets for sale: all are in good condition.<P>Hupmobile 8 L 1930-31, victor # 827 Copper/asbestos/copper $75.00<P>Packart 1600, 2100 1938=47 Victor # 979 Steel/asbestos/steel $50.00<P>Auburn 6 1934-36 Victor # 919 C/A/C $85.00<P>Graham 6-90,110,116,120 1935-37 C/A/S new and bright I forgot to write the Victor number down. I will supply on request $85.00<P>See the Prewar Studebaker Forum for Stude. & Erskin Gaskets.

What years do the stick shift ones fit and what is the price?

What condition is the engine in and how much?<P>Also how much for the door lock levers on the inside of the doors and dome light switch?

Here is what I think and why:<P>I think that they are 1930 Cad 8 353.<P>The Harrison catalaogue lists the tank parts as part # 302401 for the above model.<P>It lists the 1930 Buick ser 40 tank parts as 302101 and the tag on the 1930 Buick ser 40 that I have shows 3021 on one line and 29H on another line. A 1931 radiator has 3039 on the tank and the catalogue shows part # 303901.<P>Buicks from 24 to 28 had a letter and a 2 digit date on the radiator tank tag. The letter corresponded to the month of production and the numbers to the year. H 27 would have been a 1928 radiator built in August of 1927. The model year started towards the end of the prior year.<P>My assumption is that the 29G on your radiator indicates July of 1929 which would probably fit for a 1930 model radiator. <P>I would guess that the non honeycomb radiator had been recorred at some time.<P>Fred

I know Jim Moran. You can deal with him with confidence. He is a BCA member and has a 37 or 38 Buick

I also saw a 1930 50 series that had the engine painted black. I talked to John Gertskemper once and he said that when he went to the first BCA meet in Flint, he met some old timers who built on 1930 and 31 Buicks. They told him that on the 1931's, if the engine did not run right, they sent it back and after the problem was corrected, it came back painted BLACK. You might contact John and ask him for a first hand account on this.

Carrs and Bob's Automobilia also sell the correct paint and it is an olive green.

Tom, there was a perfectly restrored one at the horsless carrage meet in Bakersfield for $150.00 a couple of weeks ago. I passed on it because I am a long way from needing it and I hope to find a better deal, but if it is the last piece you need, you should buy it. Ask for pictures if it is by mail. A good one unrestored should go for a lot less.

I saw a restored 1930 large series tail light at a recent swap meet for $150.00. It was nice. I passed on it because I am a long way from needing another one. I was not aware that Buick made a right side tail light bracket. Does anyone know? I was going to modify a left side one for the right side.