SBRMD

Shaffer, I believe there is (or very recently was) a '72 Electra very much like the one you previously owned, on eBay.

My '97 Riv SC3800 is a great stealther; I can't imaging even needing any pullies, etc.; this thing is FAST, but so subtle-appearing.

As a big fan of these early '70's B-bodies, I'm thinking someone's going to get a fantastic car, but not for $6300, they just don't bring that.

Hey Dennis! Thanks for those pics. If the hood emblem has no pits (hard to tell for sure from pics, although they're good), I'll take it. If no pits, please e-mail me your address and total w/shipping (slowest cheapest way is fine, prefer USPS or FedEx, UPS inconvenient near me) and I'll get a check right out. Thanks in advance, Steve.

Interested in hood emblem and outside passenger side rear view mirror. SBRMD@AOL.COM Let's chat. Thanks, Steve.

Rob: Might have something of interest to you. Please e-mail me: sbrmd@aol.com Best regards, Steve in Minneapolis, MN.

Hey Nick, whaterver happened with these? Never received any info or pics from you.... SBRMD@AOL.COM Thanks again in advance, Steve.

Thanks for the clarifications, guys. I knew that the '64 wheel was a "Wildcat" item, but didn't know that they could not be ordered on a new '64 Riv. In any event, the possibility of a retrofit is large. Looking forward to measurements and pictures.

Ahh, '64 Riv...I wonder if the wheels were original to that car. Would you please also measure the diameter of the center hole (into which the center caps mount); the '64-70 wheels are different than the '71 and later, I believe 2 1/4" early and 2" late. Thanks in advance, Steve.

Would like to dibs pending size check and photos. What model did they come from? 6" or 7" wide? Size of tires? Please e-mail photos: sbrmd@aol.com Thanks in advance, Steve

Well, I talked it over w/ MPB; the problem is with the "mounting flange"; this is a plate you have to weld into your frame to mount the new-style master to. Trouble is, there's really no good place to weld this thing to (I don't know what the Corvette frame looks like). So...any other ideas out there?

It's a good thing ethics don't aply to brake lines.... Thanks for the idea Bill, I'll check it out.

Thanks Lamar! Judging from your dictionary entry, "rejigger" must be one of those WWII words, like "FUBAR", although it's not also an acronym. You taught me something too. Looking forward to whatever comes out.

Please put me next in line. sbrmd@aol.com Thanks, Steve in Mpls.

Is anybody aware of a dual-chambered master cylinder that can be retrofitted into old cars with the frame-mounted configuration (in my case, a '52) to rejigger the car, with appropriate line changes, into a dual-master cylinder system for safety reasons? And if so, where it might be found? Thanks in advance, Steve in Mpls.

I think they are at their most elegant sans vinyl top.

I finally found one that worked for my '71. Good luck to all o/w.

Ingenious! But since the Roadmaster rear doesn't have trailing arms to transfer the torque of the rear wheels to the frame of the car, doesn't the driving force transmit through the torque tube and hence to the trans, engine, and ultimately the engine mounts to push the car forward? If I've got that right, then how did the u-joint, with slip-joints at each end, withstand/transmit the torque? Didn't the torque tube itself have to somehow be bolted to the trans case, as it is with Dynaflow, in order to transmit the torque? Or maybe I'm missing a few pieces in my understanding.... I think I'll pass on the portholes. Mine are rechromable, with a few pits on the inside. Unless yours are unpitted, and more amenable to chroming without the labor of removing the pits! Thanks again in advance, Steve.

Hi Dennis, Steve Robin in Mpls here, we've talked before. I have a Roadmaster sedanet, interested in the '49 portholes if the chrome is nice and they are pit-free. The ones on my car are passable but have a few pits, so only looking to upgrade if replacements are shiny/pit-free. Have thought of you from time to time, and your '49 convert. Where is it now? Also, very curious about how you mated the modern trans to the torque tube. Was it a 700-4r or similar? My car is original, but the dynaflow is a drag, and I daydream about a trans transplant, while wanting to keep the rest original. Best regards, Steve.

Interested in 49 portholes, e-mail sent.

I'm using 100% gasoline, no alcohol. Good suggestion about the timing advance, I don't think we dealt with that when we put in the tune-up stuff. I'm exposing my ignorance, here, but how does the advance come in on the '49? Not near the car right now; I'm not visualizing a vaccuum-advance unit... Joe, you've told this before, but I don't remember: which years/models will donate 3.4 gears for the torque-tube rear? My current gears are 4.1:1, std for Roadmaster w/ Dynaflow in '49. Wonder what the change would mean for increased mileage vs. lost off-the-line performance (which is already pretty stately) in a Dynaflow car (I assume your '40 is a stick). Thanks again in advance (no timing pun intended), Steve.

No black smoke... No jackrabbit starts. With this car? Are you kidding? I don't start it in low, either. Any other thoughts?

1949 Sedanet: 36k actual, new WWW radials, complete tune-up w/ all parts replaced, carb rebuilt w/ kit from Bob's. Runs oh-so-sweetly, like a Buick should. Handling city traffic and highway speed w/ absolutley no problem. Mixed use MPG: ~9.7 MPG!!! OUCH! Any insights from the learned? Thanks in advance, Steve in Mpls.

Yes, power windows...window frames not on yet.

Looking good! Hey Adam, here's a question for you: do your windows roll hard up and down/need lubrication? If so, have you addressed it, and what did you use for lubricant/where did you lubricate? LeCenturion's got one slowww-moving driver's window.... Thanks in advance, Steve.