Mark Huston

My brother had a '29 Studebaker President with 20 inch wood wheels. He solved the problem of the "click-clack-click-clacking" down the road with a product used by furniture makers. He went to the hardware store and bought "Wood Swell & Lock" made by Bondex International, Inc. St. Louis MO 63122. The primary use of this product is by craftsmen that make wood furniture using dowels or mortise joints. The solution will cause the wood to swell so tight glue is note needed. To use on your wood wheels place a liberal amount of the liquid on the end of each spoke and continue around until each spoke has been covered. Also, apply to the spoke joints at the hub. You can use an eye droper or small paint brush to apply the solution. Repeat the process over several days to give the solution time to enter and absorb into as much wood as possible. Be sure the wood is clean, and you may need to remove paint for the solution to be absorbed into the wood. This process worked well with my brothers car and a friends '30 Buick. After this process neither car ever clicked or clacked again.

Christian,<BR>You are going about this the right way, establish a honest value on the car before you put it up for sale. There are those that will try to take advantage of your cousin, but doing your home work in advance will make the difference. Regarding the previous post for <A HREF="http://www.manheimgold.com" TARGET=_blank>http://www.manheimgold.com</A> <BR>I checked it out and find it lacking. It does not take into consideration custom bodies, like a Rollston that your Stutz has. For 1929 Studebaker Presidents that I am into, this site does not list all bodies styles or that there are two wheel base models and that also makes a difference in value. So, the best bet is to contact a couple reputable appraisers, or auction companies to give you an honest appraisel, if they offer to buy the car on the spot, don't accept the apprasial. You might also want to contact the Classic Car Club of America to see if they have a person to help you with the value of this car. There is a link on the left side of this page to contact the CCCA.

Here is a link to a 1930 Cadillac Town Car <A HREF="http://www.chicagovintage.com/gallery/main.asp?MAKE=Cadillac&ID=42" TARGET=_blank>http://www.chicagovintage.com/gallery/main.asp?MAKE=Cadillac&ID=42</A> <BR>This car is located in Chicago and availiable for viewing by appointment. Since you are at the University of Illinois you might want to contact Chicago Vintage Motor Carriage and make an appointment to see the car. You can take detailed pictures for your prop construction. Go to this link for further information in contacting Chicago Vintage Motor Carriage: <A HREF="http://www.chicagovintage.com/about/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.chicagovintage.com/about/</A>

Scott, <BR>It is hard to say what it will cost to restore a car. It all depends on what level you want the car restored to. A concourse show car or a knock about driver. In general it cost just as much to have show chrome done for a Ford as it does for a Packard, and the cost of labor is the same as well for everything else. The bottom line, the cost of restoration is just as expensive for the guy with the Packard, Peerless or Pierce-Arrow as it is for the guy with a Ford, Chevy or Studebaker Dictator, the difference is what the car is worth when you are done. With this in mind, you have to make up your mind why you want to restore the car, for the fun you will have along the way and when it is finished, or future profit. Not having seen the car I can't say what it will cost to restore, but, the odds are you will have more money into it than it will ever be worth. That does not mean the car is not worth saving, I am sure it is, and when finished it will be a great car to tour and show, you just need to be committed for the long haul and willing to do most of the work yourself and learn a lot of new skills. <BR>An added note: Scott you might want to email a friend of mine, he is doing a frame up restoration on a six wire wheel 1930 Commander rumble seat coupe. He will be better able to help you determine the potential cost of this project. His name is Rick and you can email him at: studerickpet@yahoo.com<BR>Good luck<p>[ 12-13-2001: Message edited by: Mark Huston ]

Can anyone tell me what make and year car this instrument cluster is from? This one came to me with a bunch of parts and I don't recognize what car it is from. The speedo is a Stewart-Warner drum style.<BR>

This topic has been a hot subject in the past. There are previous threads discussing the various methods of transporting a car. Res1967 started a real hot one with spaning several pages with 207 posts under the heading "Yuck, Transport Blues". You will become better informed on the ins and outs of having a vehicle transported by reading this thread, you can link with it here: <A HREF="http://www.aaca.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=001439" TARGET=_blank>http://www.aaca.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=001439</A> (this is the first page - link with other pages at the bottom of the screen)<BR>Good Luck, <BR>

When merging onto a freeway in California the law requires the vehicle that is merging to "match" the flow of traffic for a "smooth" transition into traffic. That is the law, and most drivers do not know it. They expect the existing traffic to brake, change lanes or move out of their way so they can merge onto the freeway - regardless of their speed. It is a courteous extented by other drivers to allow the merging vehicle room to enter the freeway. Since, this is an old time practice most drivers think it is a law that they must be allowed room to merge - not so. No place in the vehicle code book will you find a law requiring moving traffic on the freeway to make room for those merging. This is one of those points where it is better to let someone merge in front of you instead of becoming a traffic statistic by being "dead right" and holding your position and speed.

As a representive of the Golden State of California, and an ex-Professional Truck Driver (these crazy drivers out here is the main reason why I am an ex-truck driver). Another reason is the stupid law-makers in this fruit cake state. A new law has recently gone into effect making it a crime instead of a traffic citation for a trucker to exceed the speed limit by more than 15mph. Now, if you are a big rig driver used to keeping up with cars legally in every other western state (and most eastern states) and hit the California boarder where it is still the wide open spaces and there are no cities you still need to slow down to 55 while the cars are still going 70 plus, if you don't and you get pulled over you are not given a ticket, you are arrested, and if convicted it is 90 days in jail, and or, 2,000.00 fine, and your drivers license is suspended for 90 days. Californis is enforcing this law and truckers are going to jail. Now, what I don't know yet is if this new law is just for truckers or also extends to other vehicle combinations, like big motor homes pulling trailers, since they also are only supposed to be doing 55mph max. There are better ways of making a living than driving a truck in this state. I could go on all day about the nut case drivers in the San Francisco area, you have not lived until you have driven a big rig pulling a '53 trailer in the San Fran Bay area during rush hour traffic, which last most of the day. The Stories I could tell!

This subject was a recent discussion on the Buick side of this forum. There is a good thread on it, you can read it here: <A HREF="http://www.aaca.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=003360" TARGET=_blank>http://www.aaca.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=003360</A>

Put me on the list, I need one that will hold together better than this pot metal one I got.

You can include me in the list, I am interested, this original pot metal one I got is on it's last legs, won't hold together much longer.

Thank you Terry, since you understood me, I guess it is Tommy L that does not get what I was saying.

John, <BR>I had a dead battery in my 29 Studebaker years ago, the car had a strait 8 engine. I have hand cranked brass cars and thought I could do the same with the 29 Stude. Wrong, the car has to much compression. Could not turn it fast enough to get anything out of it, other than a lot of exercise. With a new battery it started on the first spin. The crank is there for setting the timing, not starting the engine.

Tommy L:<BR>Since you are unregistered on this forum you have the advantage of me. Yes I am from California, and no I am not a promoter of Pebble Beach, there standards, or politics, whatever that may be. I have never shown a car there and never will. I don't show my cars, period. I don't restore cars with the intent of showing them. I own my cars for personal enjoyment that includes driving them. My goal is a car that is original as we can restore them today, 70+ years after the fact, and that is enjoyable as a driver, not a trailer queen show car. Now, I don't know what I did to get you worked up on this subject, I hope this helps clear up my position.

Brian, <BR>If you went back in time and took a car of the show room floor of any car dealer and placed that car on the field at the 2001 Pebble Beach concourse de'elegance - it would lose. The reason is that the cars today in serious judging are "over restored". This has come about from the guys who have money to burn demanding show winning cars. And they win. Now you can either restore the car to the way it was when new, or, you can try to win awards. If you want awards make the car better than new. Thats my opinion, and I don't think it is far off the mark. <BR>

I don't have a direct answer to the question posted here, other than to ask my own question. In 1928-29 Studebaker advertised in their sales broucher the use of "butler finish" on the door hardware. I know that this gave the dull old time silver look and finish to the door hardware. My question is, how was that accomplished. Through nickeled finish or chrome? I have always noticed the door handles and window cranks on the inside of the cars never had the bright chrome finish of the outside, now I know it is the "butler finish" but how is that same finish achieved today?<BR>

Any good auto insurance company will add the car to your policy pending your bring the car by in person or mailing in pictures. First thing to do is give your regular car insurace company a call, ask them how much to add the car to the policy when you pick it up. If you plan on driving the car as a 2nd family car plus collector car you will have to insure it on a regular car police. If on the other hand you only want to drive it as a collector car you can get antique car insurace which is much cheaper and more restrictive on milage and use of the vehicle. I use JC Taylor for my collector car insurance, highly recommend them. There number is 800-268-4783 or <A HREF="http://www.jctaylor.com" TARGET=_blank>www.jctaylor.com</A>

Unregistered User CAL: I am sorry you let a few "self proclaimed experts" run you off. Over the years I have been a member of several different car clubs. I have learned that no matter what make of car you have from a Model A to a Classic Packard there will be those who presume to be the expert on what is, or is not, a "desirable car". I learned to not listen to those types and seek out and listen to those who have something worth hearing. I have always sought out and bought those cars that bring me personal enjoyment regardless of the opinions expressed by "the desirability police". One thing I learned early on is that those who are quick to tell you what is, or is not, a desirable car, will never include anything that they own in the undesirable classification.

Studebaker started making cars at the turn of the century, electric models. Want vintage are you looking for? If you are interested in a nice restorable '31 Commander I know a guy who has one for sale. If you are looking for something newer (post war) check newspapers, Hemmings and Studebaker club wet sites and magazine.

Ply33 has it right, there is no reason to fear using detergent oil in your engine. I have taken old cars that have been setting untouched for decades and used detergent oil in them with no ill effects. But, I first droped the pan cleaned it and every part I could reach and replaced the oil pump (only because original oil pumps of this vintage are usually falling apart anyway). I had a '29 Studebaker that I bought in 1974 and I drove it for over 25 years with detergent oil, the engine had over 100,000 miles on it, no one knew if and when the engine had been rebuilt, the previous owner had used non-detergent oil in it. I did not know any better (was 17 at the time) and I used what ever I could get my hands on at the time, detergent oil various grades, sometimes mixing with non-detergent oil. I don't do that today, but back then I was not smart enough to think about it, the car is still on the road today, and the current owner has not rebuilt the engine either. I guess my learning experiences with that car did it no long term harm.

Sounds like you might have a basic 20's vintage picnic set. These were common in various forms from the brass era cars up through the 40's and 50's. Your set would have also had a salt and pepper shaker, cork style thermos bottle. Depending on how expensive and fancy the picnic set was new depends on what they go for today.

Studebaker was also working on a automatic transmission in the late 1930's. In September of 1941 Studebaker started announcing the new "perfected Turbo-matic Drive" transmission. The transmission used a combination of automatic vacuum-operated clutch, fluid torque converter, and three-speed transmission with an automatic overdrive. Six Studebaker President models were assembled with this transmission durring the 1942 model run. It was reported that before the cars were sold they were converted back to standared overdrive transmissions and were either then sold or used as excutive cars. Not one of the Presidents survived with an automatic transmission. To bad, would be fun to test drive one of those units. The main reason given for Studebakers droping the automatic transmission is the start of WW2 and the end of auto production for the duration.

I know of no car called a "Page", but there was a car called the "Paige" that was built from 1909-1930 in Detroit, Michigan. In 1928 it became part of the Graham-Paige company which contiuned car production until 1941. The 1920 Paige cars came in either a model 6-42 with 119" wheelbase and Paige's own 230 C.I.D. 6 cylinder engine, or model 6-55 with 127" wheelbase and a Continental engine of 303 C.I.D. With the correct spelling of the car you will have better luck finding information. There is a Graham-Paige car club out there that could help you further. <p>[ 11-20-2001: Message edited by: Mark Huston ]

I think Ply33 hit the nail on the head, this is the perfect why to run the "used car" market out of existence. This will ruin the dealers, what is the law going to do to private party sales? Is there a law coming to cover that part of the market next? Watch out America, your law makers love to copy what goes on in Europe.

I am sorry I have no ready response for you on value for this rig, I would suggest contacting a member of the Fire Apparatus Club (there is a posting on the AACA portion of the forum of a person who is selling off thier vehical collection that includes early fire trucks) On another note, this truck is not a 1931. It may have been sold to the current owner in '31 and the titled as a '31, which was a common practice at the time. The front end and fenders of the truck are from about 1926, which is the first year Studebaker started up making commercial chassis since they stoped in 1917. It is also possible that this truck chassis was rebodied in 1931 and then titled as a '31, but if you check the engine number and the chassis number (if it was not removed at sometime) it will turn out to be from 1926-27 Big Six. Check out the Commerical page of the Antique Studebaker Club web site for other Studebaker Fire Trucks (they are towards the bottom of the page) <A HREF="http://antiquestudebakerclub.com/Commercial_Studies.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://antiquestudebakerclub.com/Commercial_Studies.htm</A>