Mark Huston

Thank you all for your assistance, I will give your suggestions a try. There is no black showing through, just yellowed/stained white walls.

I purchased a vintage car with the large 4 inch white wall tires. The wide white walls have never been cleaned. What is the best product out there to clean them up and keep the white walls looking good? I have never had this style tire before and don't know what to do with them, short of buying a set of black wall tires. They look real bad.<BR>Any ideas?

What kind of information do you need? I have a multi make service manual for tune up and carburators. Is that what you need? If so email me with your info and I will copy for you.

I bought a 1929 Studebaker President. The President has 39 spoke, 5 lug, 19inch wheels with a 9 1/4 hub cap opening. The car came with some extra wheels. The 4 extra wheels are 40 spoke, 6 lug, 19 inch with 9 1/4 hub cap opening. Someone told me that the 4 extra wheels might be for a Pierce-Arrow, does anyone know if this could be true? Does anyone think they know what these extra 4 wheels might be for?

I have 4 wheels that are 40 spoke, 6 lug, 19 inch. I don't know what they are for, they came with my '29 President. But, the President is a 5 lug set up.

My first car was a 1929 Studebaker Commander sedan, I bought it when I was 16 and a junior in High School. I had that car for almost 25 years. Here is a picture of me with the car on the day I bought it: <A HREF="http://www.softcom.net/users/huston/ASC2/SDH_photos/Profile_MH_02.jpg" TARGET=_blank>http://www.softcom.net/users/huston/ASC2/SDH_photos/Profile_MH_02.jpg</A> <BR>This is how it looked when I sold it 25 years later: <A HREF="http://www.softcom.net/users/huston/ASC2/SDH_photos/Profile_MH_01.jpg" TARGET=_blank>http://www.softcom.net/users/huston/ASC2/SDH_photos/Profile_MH_01.jpg</A> <BR>There are time when I am sorry I sold the old girl, called her Gertie, but my beloved partner in life will allow only one toy at a time and I now have a 1929 Studebaker President Brougham, which I am doing major work on. I never did any thing to Gertie, other than tires, tune up and oil changes. Never broke down and always started on the first try. Boy do I miss her.<BR>

I am sorry to say there is another problem. The web site is NOT GONE! It is still here going strong. The correct site address is: <A HREF="http://www.antiquestudebakerclub.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.antiquestudebakerclub.com/</A> give it another try. <BR>Join us in Woodland, CA in April for the next ASC SouthWest Zone meet.

My worst car was a 1961 Nash Metropolitan. This car had problems. I owned it back in the late 70's when it was about a 15 year old car. I could not keep it in tune, carb always out of adjustment, it burnt valves, clutch and brake problems, wiring problems. One dark night the headlights went out and had to drive home by the light of a turn signal. The final insult was when I went to sell the car the rear axl snaped when the "new owner" was test driving the car! He said he would still buy it if I replaced the axl before the returned to get the car. <BR>2nd worst car was a 1972 Super Beatle, now that is a another story. That Beatle became a crispy Beatly on the side of the freeway. Like so many of them.

Here is what information I have. This comes from the Chilton Automotive Mulit-Guide 1931. I don't have any information after that. I am a Studebaker guy. Here it is:<BR>Year Model Serial Number<BR>1928 76 2878301 upward<BR>1928 88 2866901 upward<BR>1928 115 2848001 upward<BR>Number stamped on serial name plate on dash.<BR>1929 120 2948001 and up<BR>1929 8-90 2948001 and up<BR>1929 6-90 2848001 and up<BR>1930 6-85 1001 and up<BR>1930 8-95 1001 and up<BR>1931 8-98 1001 and up<BR>Number stamped on plate under front floor mat at R. H. door.<P>This is how it is presented in the Chilton book. Don't know how Auburn used the same starting serial number series for diffrent models and diffrent years (example 1930 & 1931). Maybe someone else can shed more light on the subject.<P><BR>

Thank you for the information, I will be contacting them.

I am restoring a 1929 Studebaker President FE Brougham. The car has the full leather leaf spring covers. Does anyone out there have a source for getting new covers made? Also, does anyone know who has replacement hardware for the trunks? I have heard that there may still be a fellow up around Oregon or Washington that makes new trunks for the large Classic cars. Does anyone know who this guy is and how to get in touch with him? Thank you for any help you can offer. <BR>

No they will not interchange. The 1928 Commander fenders are shorter in length and the bead on the edge will diffrent. The 1929 Commanders were introduced as all new models with longer more flowing fenders and lower bodies. Check all details and measure very carefully to be sure before you buy or try to use the '28 fenders on a '29. Hope this helps

I enjoy the site and check it out everyday. Keep up the good work and I will be getting money to you for a sponsorship.

For quality 8x10 factory photos contact the Antique Studebaker Club's editor. He has many photos of all years. You can find the information to reach him on the Nor-Cal Antique Studebaker club web site page: <A HREF="http://antiquestudebakerclub.com/FactPhotos.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://antiquestudebakerclub.com/FactPhotos.htm</A>

Does anyone have a source for a hood for a 3rd series 1928 GE Dictator? I am looking for one for a friend who is restoring a GE Dictator Cabriolet. He has a hood but it is to damaged for repair. Please let me know if you have a hood or know who I can contact.<BR>My email: studebaker28@yahoo.com

Yes Oldford they have the flare that is larger than the hex nut with a 'L' or 'R' on them.

Congratulations!<BR>Now that the old girl is in on the road you can start to have some fun with her. Keep at it and we look forward to seeing the you and the '28 on tour soon.

Since your car is missing parts that could help I.D. it correctly you can only guess at this point. There were no "true" Studebaker's built in 1912. From 1904 to 1911 they are Studebaker-Garfords and then in 1913 the first complete Studebaker was built. During 1909 through 1912 the EMF & Flanders were built and sold through the Studebaker dealer network and are considered by many to be Studebakers, it was the EMF/Flanders factory that Studebaker took over in Feb. 1911 as the basis for building their own cars. 1912 "EMF's" and "Flanders" were sold by Studebaker until they could get their own models into production. "Flanders" were sold into 1913, the last "EMF" was sold in 1912. The first full Studebaker was in 1913.<BR> Now for your problem. Since you are being given information that may or may not be true as to the age of your car you need to look at what you do have and go with that. Check the engine. Look for a stamped in engine number (not a raised casting number) an engine number will be hand stamped into the metal of the block - not - a raised casting number. Measure the wheel base, measure both sides and then divide by 2. The wheel base for a 1913 Studebaker Model E 6 cyl. has a 121 inch wheel base. The 1913 SA"25" model 4 cyl. has an 102 inch wheel base, The 1913 Model AA"35" has a 115 inch wheel base. There should be a serial number tag on the frame or cowl. Also check for the type of engine design (a Flanders for example will have a 4 cyl. engine with cast in block construction with the exhaust manifold cast into the block). Also check to see if the transmission is part of the rear end, this was an early design that ended with the 1917 models. Look your car over very carefully, look for specific details and any numbers on the body, cowl, frame or engine that might help ID your car. Let me know and we will go from there.<BR>Mark Huston<p>[This message has been edited by ASCwebmaster (edited 06-20-2000).]

Dear Mrs Carmen Sear,<P>I have received your most recent correspondence sent to the Studebaker Drivers Club. I am not an expert on the Studebakers that you have requested information about, but will try to assist you as best I can. From what information you have given the models you have appear to be what was called the "Land Cruiser". This body style was introduced in the 1934 model year and was a new sensation with its unusual fastback streamlining and fender skirts. The design has been widely credited as resembling the experimental Pierce-Arrow Silver Arrow models. Studebaker owned the Pierce-Arrow car company from 1928 to 1933. The Silver Arrow came out in 1933. So, it is very reasonable to suspect that Studebakers Land Cruiser was based on the Silver Arrow since it was designed and built during the time Studebaker owned Pierce-Arrow. As to value, that is always hard to pin point. Condition and location play a big part in value. I don't know what cars go for in Africa (is that the location of the cars?). The Land Cruiser was built in both 1934 & 1935 in the President, Commander and Dictator lines in either a Delux or regular trim package.<BR>Price guides should only be used to give a general ideal or feel for what the cars "might" be worth. The guide is never right on accurate even when it is a current issue. The Land Cruiser is a very nice model and one that is not seen very often. There are some still around and they are a sought after model, especially a President. In "The Antique Studebaker Club" magazine the "Review", there have been a couple of articles on this model. If it would help I could see about looking them up and sending you copies or give you the issue number so you can see about ordering back copies from the club. Hope this gives you some help. If you have additional questions I will do my best to assist you.<BR>Mark Huston<BR>