old-tank

All of my cars with carburetors stink like gas when summer temperatures start (March around here) and I still have the more volatile winter gas in the tank (also more prone to vapor locks)...try your's with fresh gas.<BR>Willie

I have an OLD can of Permatex hydraulic jack oil that is labeled for hydraulic jacks AND lever shock absorbers.<P>Willie

You're right: nailheads are more expensive to rebuild than a sbc; but Buicks in general are more expensive to restore than the popular Chevies and Fords.<BR>I choose to restore 55 Centuries, nailhead and all, instead of a 55 Chev which would be easier and less expensive. But look what I end up with, a BETTER car: looks better, drives better, rides better, and has more power. Reliability has never been a problem...I drove a 55 Special 365,000 miles and never touched the rear end, transmission, suspension or engine except for valve jobs or water pumps; I never saw the inside of any to these components until I restored my first a few years ago.<BR>Every summer I drive 3-4,000 miles without worry and have had no problems I could not fix ( I do carry a few extra parts: fuel and water pumps, starter and generator, and a set of tools).<BR>A well maintained original Buick is probably more reliable than something cobbled together with parts of many cars even if all of the cars and parts are Buick. <BR>Some talk of upgrading for safety like brakes and steering...not a problem if you drive a 50's like a 50's car...are you going to drive that 85 Riviera frame brakes and suspension like a 2001 Corvette? My point is to drive any car only up to it's capabilies; myself I like the original experience rather than the kit car.<BR>Build your car to your liking and give me a ride in your new creation...I appreciate the work that goes into any project.<BR>Willie

Hi John<BR>Other possibilities on your upgrade: rebuild your 1953 322 (188hp) to 1955 (235hp) or 1956 (255hp) specs or use a later nailhead (364-401-425). Also the later dynaflows with switch pitch give much better performance than the 1953.<BR>If you use a 455 build it to 1970 specs because a 1974-1976 smog motor will not have as much power as some of the larger nailheads. Any of my 1955 Centurys will accelerate faster than my brother's 1976 Le Sabre 455 (the 55's do have a weight advantage...3800 to 4100 vs 4500 for the 76... and more advantage on the axle ratio...3.41 or 3.39 for the 55 vs 2.43 for the 76)<P>Good Luck...Willie

'give it a knock to loosen it up.'....worth a try. Anyhow the vibrator is a metal cylinder (if you pull it out it has 3 or 4 pins) next to the power transformer , the largest metal cube in the case...this looking at the tube side which can be accessed in some radios without removing the radio. The vibrator functions to convert your 6 volts DC to AC which is jumped to about 100 volts AC by the power transformer, then it is turned back to 100 volts DC by the rectifier tube.........<BR>More information than you need? Everytime I had trouble with a vibrator it needed to be replaced. Most vintage radio repair places can sell you a solid state vibrator substitute. (vibrator substitute is redundant since a vibrator IS a substitute!!)<BR>Willie.... Never been accused of being 'G' rated

Welcome to the shiftless world of Dynaflow! For more power at full throttle in drive the 55 tranny has a variable stator that acts sort of like a lower gear or passing gear. But for maximum acceleration even the owners manual says to start in low and shift to drive at 45 mph. Still don't expect to much from your 264 cu in motor rated at 188 hp (gross...probably 140 net)<BR>Willie

Check your transmission fluid level, if OK see your service manual on the proper adustment of the torgue ball...if too tight it may bind and release and cause clunks, pops, and maybe bucking. Could be an ignition problem such an interrmittant short as the vacuum advance is actuated...quick test drive without the vacuum advance connected.<BR>Willie

The top center winshield molding CANNOT be removed without removing the windshield!<BR>Willie

Ken<BR>The inner race is the one pressed on the axel shaft.<BR>One other thing to check...be sure you are not getting transmission fluid past the torque tube seal into the tube and into the rear end...this will overfill the rear end dilute the lubrcant and even good seals will not hold. On all my 55's I drill a small hole in the bottom of the torque just in front of the rear flange to check and/or drain fluid from the tube.<BR>My understanding on the necessity of the inner seal is to keep the rear lubrcant out of the grease which may dilute or be incompatible. Also the fill level on the differential is lower than the axel bearings.<BR>Willie

Ken<BR>The reason for the inner and outter seals is because the bearings and the space between the seals is packed with grease. If you are getting axel lubricant leaks then both seals are shot. Replacement is pretty straightforward ...just pay attention to the shop manual. I had to rig a puller to remove the bearing from the housing. If you need to replace the inner race there lots of ways to cut chisel or grind it off but replacement is easy...just heat the new one with a propane torch and drop in place!!<BR>Email me with your phone number and I will call you with details.<BR>Willie

I use 20W-50 in all of my daily drivers and in my 55's with the 322.

Hello again Bill<BR>Called the local muffler shop and they have your pattern!!<BR>willie

Bill<BR>Stay away from Kepich if you can! the system I bought for my 55 was horrible: Y-pipe would not match up to the manifolds and the tail pipe had kinks gouges and pinched down where it goes over the axle. Then I had to pay to send it back (still didn't fit) and then pay to send it back again. They refunded the price of the product but not the orininal shipping charges!!...a $75 lesson....<BR>There is a shop in Seguin that has patterns for many old cars...I'll check on yours...all you will need to buy is a muffler from hopefully someone other than Kepich!!<BR>Why aluminized?...it's cheaper and quieter than stainless and will last a lot longer than regular steel.<BR>Willie

If you use a 12 volt battery to power the dwell meter you will be running the car on 12 volts!! Even 12 volt cars that have a resistor in the circuit will have 6-10 volts at the distributor. I looked in some of my shop manuals and they ALL say to check spring tension...I've never done that...just install the points and condensor; set and check on three or four lobes and forget it for 15,000 miles. If you want to double check with a dwell meter 8-cylinder cars should be 26 to 34 degrees ( remember that the closer the points the higher the dwell )<BR>Willie

WANTED; C-pillar window molding 76 Lesabre 4dr ht non vinyl top, Respond by email or this forum.<BR>Thanks Willie<BR><B>window</B><p>[ 05-10-2001: Message edited by: old-tank ]

Is it actually hot or does the guage just read high? If it is belching coolant all over the road it is HOT. On my 55 322 the guage was showing hot with a new clean motor and new cooling system so I put a mechanical guage on the other head and at 200 deg the stock guage was high enough to make me nervous and at 220 deg the stock guage was pegged and definitely giving me white knuckles! With pressure and antifreeze you can go higher than 212 deg before boiling over. Most new cars have 195 deg thermostats.<BR>Just some observations...Willie

55 Buick is 12 volt. I have one that did the same thing..never did figure it out...rewired and the indicators work with the turn signals AND the brake lights...good conversation starter with a new passenger.<BR>Willie

Hi Don<P><BR>Congrats on the cruising. The out of center drive shaft can cause the<BR>vibration you described and will eat up the bushing in the torque ball which<BR>may already be worn...could be bad universal joint ...bad bushing on the<BR>output shaft inside the tranny...congealed oil INSIDE the drive shaft. A<BR>good drive shaft shop should be able to straighten the shaft with the torque<BR>tube removed...big pain to remove the pinion and shaft. Could be normal<BR>vibration transmitted thru hard engine? tranny mounts...exhaust components<BR>contacting frame,,,big pain where the exhaust pipe and tail pipe go thru<BR>holes in frame...bad harmonic balancer and out of balance torque converter<BR>will vibrate in neutral and driving.<BR>Sounds like your brake builder is making excuses...take it back!!<BR>On the wipers just get a rebuilt wiper motor from Buick Spec...chances of<BR>finding a good motor are slim.<BR>On the gas tank...a little loose stuff can be removed with soap and water flush: tank out plug on bottom removed and sending unit out...if real nasty get a radiator shop to boil out with acid. Don't even consider a coating...I've had some real good clogs all thru the fuel system! Buick Spec. can get you a rebuilt tank for a price.<BR>Later...Willie<BR>

Everytime PETER THE GREAT decides to add more color, fluff, confetti, icons, smilies, gremlins,etc the forum loads at a snails' pace (one minute plus) with my 28.8 modem and takes at least 30 seconds with DSL at the office. Text on other forums (which is all we NEED) loads instantly!!<P>Willie

Addendum to oldtimer's message: If an old car doesn't leak oil it doesn't have any oil in it!<P>Willie

Lots of good ideas here. I had a 54 Ply with the same brake setup that had lockup and grabby brakes after I replaced the shoes with the new non asbestos friction lining material...found some NORS shoes with asbestos linings and solved the problem!<P>Willie

I noticed from one of your other posts that your grandfather's 55 is a Special which would have the 264 cu in engine with 188 hp. I drove a 55 Special (from 1962 to 1974 for 365,000 miles) and now have 55 Centuries with the 322 engie and 235 hp...that extra 47 hp makes a difference in off the line acceleration! The owners manual states for maximum acceleration to start in Low and shift to Drive at 45mph which I did routinely with my 55 Special...it would pull strong up to 65mph in Low before shifting if I really needed to impress or race someone. I probably will not try that with my restored Centurys very often!<P>Willie

I have as opinion also...Consumer Reports gets its information from owner submitted qustionaires. Two points: 1) an owner of a $40 to 60K (+) car will expect near perfection and report even trivial problems whereas an owner of a $9K car will put up with alot and not report; 2)people who read and believe in all that Consumer Reports says will be more likely to return the questionaire.<BR>You CAN get some good information from CU but you have to get past their liberal tree hugging and love those Japanese cars bias. A propper car to them (environmentaly correct) is always small ugly and practical. I might buy the stereo that they recommend but never any of the cars they like!<P>Willie

Try: <A HREF="http://www.mcveys.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.mcveys.com/</A> <BR>they have repro lids...perfect but expensive<BR>willie

Think safety, but remember that people who use tools bleed alot!!<P>Willie