old-tank

On starter problems always consider a low voltage problem even if it seems mechanical. Check the obvious like battery and cables at both ends, but also any wire or connection in the starter circuit. This might not apply to yours but the 55 has an additional relay between the solenoid and ignition switch that gives trouble due to high internal resistance. On systems without this relay, my local starter/generator/alternator shop adds one to bypass resistance in other parts of the circuit. Willie

Are there any differences in the heads of 54-55-56 322 engines? Anyhow I found a NORS set of 0.030 oversize 56 pistons made by sealed power. A currently manufactured piston from Egge machine has a 1/8" lower dome (a set in one of my Centurys gives only 110# of cranking compression instead of 160-170#...it does run on regular gas but is a slug). I know that the connecting rods on 54 and early 55 are different requiring a different wrist pin. If the 54 and 55 heads have the same part number I will use what I have, otherwise get a set of 56 heads. Thanks in advance. Willie

I have been driving a few months and few thousand miles after rebuilding the brakes on my 55 Century ( previous thread ). Anyhow the car is a bear to stop when the brakes are cold. Even backing out of the garage on fast idle or forward after that I have to stand on the pedal before it literaly groans to a stop. After use and heating the brakes up it stops better than any of my other ones with no fade and always straight stops. The pedal has normal firmness, the power brakes are working normally. I even bled the system again and inspected the shoes. The shoes showed no glazing and good contact pattern. The shoes are RAYBESTOS Part # 197PG. It seems that the friction material is too hard. Any suggestions other than carrying an anchor until the brakes heat up... Willie

http://www.englishautosociety.com/articles.html Some of the same info, but the conclusion at the end suggest that Castrol 20w-50 and 30w are suitable for these old cars...

Correction Both bearings are one year only=1955. The front ball bearing is or was a current production item but is not used in other years. Part numbers: From BCA/Bower bearing/ National seal book Front 5307-W Rear R 1529 EL I have rebuilt 3 of these units, so I guess that makes me an expert...I can give some tips or other part numbers if wanted Willie

Bob There are actually 2 pinion bearings in those old Buick rears. One is a preloaded double row ball bearing and the other is a roller bearing. The ball bearing one is common to many years, but the roller bearing is one year only=1955. I can get you the part numbers tomorrow and maybe a bearing supply place can locate some for you. I have a used roller bearing that is serviceable if needed. Willie

Chris Does the amp meter show a charge when the engine is running? Get the service manual, it will help in situation like this. Right now the possibilities are connection problems, generator problems, voltage regulator problems, battery problems, and to confuse you possible combinations of some of these. Willie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Rebecca, I'm not trying to second guess anyone here but be aware that lacquer thinner is extremely flammable and it's vapors besides being toxic, are, in the right air/vapor mixture, EXPLOSIVE. There are many effective water soluble or emulsifyable cleaners out there that will do the job. Please think about not using thinner, especially in the dry winter air where a static electricity spark could easily turn deadly........Bob. </div></div> Right on. Actually laquer thinner should not be used to "clean" anything that you want to paint. It will not remove oils from the surface; it just pushes it around. There are surface prep products made for this. Willie

"Carefully"=time and patience. Actually it sound easy if you say it quickly. I just looked at a used bead to refresh myself on how I did it...major pia! Gloves(!) screwdrivers for prying, visegrip or other pliers with hardwood blocks for crimping. Start with the straight (less complicated) pieces from the front doors. This took me hours and seclusion from children and others with sensitive ears. And I did kink a rear door piece and had to start over with another piece from a parts car. Most of the other 4dr ht I have seen had the small bead... Willie

Kevin I dug out a 12 year old catalogue and invoice. No separte part numbers, just a kit...I paid $127 then. Willie

Chris All 55 small series 40-60 used weatherstrip on the trunk lid and the large series 50-70 used it on the gutter, so yours is correct in that regard. Gary Walker is an excellent restorer of mid 50's Buicks and with a little detailing yours will easily get a Gold/Senior in BCA judging. Don't worry about the bumpers (hole plugs?) in the gutter...they may not even be noticed by the judges or would only be a one point deduction. Willie

Kevin I bought a kit from one of the 55-56-57 Chevy suppliers...I think it was C&P. It had most of what is required to rebuild including the slotted head screws that you need (except for the rivet that we have been discussing). Just don't tell them that you are going to use it on a Buick! Answers to questions and a friendly attitude will stop abruptly. Willie

Lamar In spite of what the picture address says: http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/8686/56superpq5.jpg it is not a 56 super. It is a 55 or 56 Special or Century 4dr hardtop. The large series have the key hole in the door handle button not on the door; the rear door latch plate on the car is what is found on the small series. Willie

Chris I have never seen the trunk bumper shown in your picture on any my 55's...2 restored one low mileage original and 2 parts cars. Either yours was made in different plant that put them on the gutter instead of the lower lid or someone took some liberties in restoration. The ones on the cowl lace should be available for the 2 companies that I mentioned and maybe also from Restoration Specialties and supply. Willie

Pete I use an appropriate size piece of exhaust pipe. I have a collection of differnt sizes that I got from the scrap pile at a muffler shop. Put piece of 2x4 over the free end, get a big ol' hammer... There probably is a specific tool made for this. Willie

Chris As far as I know the trunk bumpers are not available. I use a split piece of vacuum hose over the remaining metal part of the bumper. When installed it will be securely clamped to the inside of the trunk lid. This is very functional and so far judges have not complained. The hood bumpers should be availble from Steele Rubber or Metro moulded rubber. Willie

On my 55 4dr hardtop I carefully removed the old large bead and fitted it over the available small bead product, Willie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thank you Willie, you're a gentleman and a scholar. </div></div> I ain't never been accused of that before...

Lamar It ain't gonna come off in one piece. It was originaly a slip fit, but is now welded in place, fragile and full of rust. Best to take off the manifold (after you break it off), drill out the remnants of the old tube, then fabricate a new tube. Or if you are lucky, cut it off an inch or more from the manifold and sometimes it can be spliced using compression fittings. Willie

Kevin I had the same problem a few years ago on my 55 CVT. The cost of duplicating the rivet with the propper shoulder and then find a way to star peen was too much. After removing the old rivets I drilled and tapped the arm that the rivet is seated into to 3/8-24. I had a machine shop produce the required number of the above pictured "rivet" in stainless steel. To install just use the slot to screw it in to the propper depth for smooth operation and use Lok-Tite to secure...the slot (or start peen) cannot be seen when everything is assembled anyhow. The heads of the "rivets" were rough finished as above. To get a the propper finish I chucked it in a drill and with the drill and bench grinder turning, the head was ground to the propper contour; then a fine file was used on the turning head followed by increasingly finer grits of wet/dry sandpaper down to 400 grit followed by turning the head into stainless buffing wheels (Eastwood) resulting in a mirror finish. Hint drill and tap before getting the arms chromed, then all you have to do is 'chase' the threads before assembly. Willie

Kevin CVT top is white vinyl with black cloth liner inside; frame is black; body is Cherokee red/Dover white; interior is red, dash is black. Willie

Folding top front roof rail group 14.050 lists tan as the color that can be painted black to match black trim

Hey Dave Spring is Houston area, so the Lone Star Chapter would be more appropriate <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> Mike I live just down the road (by Texas standards) in Seguin and have 3 55 Centurys along with parts cars, parts and literature...any help is yours for the asking. Contact me through my profile (click on "old-tank").

Alternator in a generator case: LINK Interesting item to keep the stock look with increased reliabiliy...I have not tried or seen one close...looks like about $400 a pop/

Brad The parts book lists one torque tube for all models 40-60 and another for all models 50-70. There is an early and late tube for the small and big series, and I have no idea what this means...probably has to do with the rear. Anyhow if you are using your old one it would have no effect on your project. Willie