old-tank

You probably saw a lot of Buicks, but could not identify since they look like all the other jelly beans on the road.

Kevin Thanks for sharing the difference with the transmission cross member...learned something today. On the shims I leave them out unless there is a space to install them easily. Willie

Don't get one from CARS unless that is the only way to get a core to get it done right at Steele or Bob's Automobilia. http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=50&Number=428871&Searchpage=1&Main=99705&Words=+old-tank&topic=0&Search=true#Post428871

Save a spot for me Willie

A check list for you: 1. with the engine off be sure the accelerator pump is actually working while looking down the carb 2. check the metering rod adjustment again and with the engine running and the cover over the metering rods off rev the engine to be sure they pull up out of the jets 3. be sure the gasket between the mid and lower sections is installed correctly...it will go on two ways and one is wrong 4. check the float level 5. check the timing and operation of the vacuum advance Willie

Lamar No seals. The original seal is designed to be replaced with the rear and torque tube in the car. The last seal I replaced was one matched to the housing and sealing surface of the pinion nut and installed from the front of the housing. Willie

Drill and tap for 1/4-20 short bolt. It should swap as is, but to do it right it should be disassembled for inspection and to replace the pinion seal. If the pinion seal is leaking you will get rear end oil in the torque tube and if transmission fluid get it the torque tube it will get into the rear before you can drain it. Willie

A guess: 3.36 gears probably from late '55 (47÷14=3.357). To make it work you would need the rare 55 only pinion bearings...best to have the original housing and shims. If noisy use heavier oil Willie

The edit feature now works. Thanks! Willie

Still no way to edit old posts. Recent posts I think have a 120 minute time limit. Links to old forum topics don't work. Give me the ability to edit and I will fix mine... Willie

Bob The one in the avatar was in Flint and yes it does have AC. Willie

Lamar You don't need a special tool to do the work mentioned here. Needed only if you remove the driveshaft from the pinion to service the rear gears, bearings and seals or to change the driveshaft. Drain the fluid in the pan, because even though the level in the pan is usually below the rear of the transmission, the torque converter on these old dynaflows will drain back into the pan after sitting and raise the level of fluid in the pan...and leak. Willie

Also disconnect the shock links...I disconnect the top at the frame, just easier with my tools. I disconnect the springs at the axle and roll it out on the brake drums or on some bare rims. ....been getting a lot of practice lately... Willie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peter Gariepy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">hey folks. most of the nagging issues are fixed. PM me if you have others. </div></div> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> What if I make a mistake in my post? Users can edit their own posts up to 0 minutes after they are made. Where the change is substantial, it is courteous mark the post as edited so as to alert readers to the changed content. For cosmetic changes, it's better not to do so. </div></div> It would be nice if you could edit or delete a FUBAR post. I know you requested a PM but I don't know how to do that anymore either.

Try again on the attachment...

Most leaks at the rear of a dynaflow are at the torque ball and can be serviced without removing the transmission. I have never done a 49 but you would work with components "BD" on back. Others more familiar with model should be able to tell you how to disassemble and what parts you need. Willie

The browsers that I have tried: Internet Explorer, Opera, Mozilla are center justified if logged in and left justified if not logged in. I had the same problem with Opera on the last update, but not on other browsers. Kind of distracting: makes me think I might be reading poetry (GAG)! Willie

I have rebuilt a number of early A5's (1955) and those require about 12 oz of oil to fill a dry compressor. Most modern compressors use 2-4 oz and that is not enough for an A5. If you flushed all of the old oil from yours, that may be the problem. Also it is normal for the body on an A5 to be cold. Willie

Well our old buddies over at CARS did it to me again! A year ago when I rebuilt my dynaflow I bought a Torque ball kit from them. Now the rubber in the outter retainer is swelled, bulging, slimey and crumbly...and has a big gapping hole that tranny fluid pours from. The rubber vulcanized to the outter retainer is not complatible with oil!!! duh? Anyhow now that I have some of you worried about also having a junk seal on your dynaflow, where can I get a quality part to replace this %$&*@#? It could be worse like failing on the way to Seattle. I'm pissed... Willie

Images are no longer showing up, but this is on my website (see signature below) Low tech tips for mid 50's Buicks Part II: rear shocks The front shocks were detailed in Part I , Now for the rear. Various vendors including CARS offer rebuilding service for rear shocks for about $230 a pair. I have no idea what they do when rebulding, but I could not stand to spend that much plus shipping when my shocks were functioning well, but leaking badly. So I took some shocks from a parts car and tried to remove the arm to get at the seal. None of the presses in my part of South Texas would move it, so I decided to get mean: some cutting and a big hammer. The following is not a rebuild, just seal replacement; the compression and rebound valves were removed as well as the top cover, but that part of the service is detailed in the shop manual. Clamp the arm of the shock verically in a vise with the link end down and against the floor of the vise. This will make it more stable for later hammering. A goove is cut in the shaft end of the arm almost to the the shaft and a small groove is cut into the end of the shaft to index with the arm when replaced. A large hammer and chisel is used to spread the groove slightly. After many tries the puller finally worked to remove the shaft. Here are all of the tools displayed: Dremel tool, chisel, hammer, puller. Parts are separated. Now to get the cup that serves as the seal retainer off the body. The cup is pressed to the body. I used increasingly larger chisels between the body and the cup to remove it. The cup is off revealing the original seal which appears to be sponge rubber (now hard and crumbling). After coating with silicone grease two O-rings were stacked on the shaft and the cup was installed and then staked in place with a center punch. I used some O-rings I had for the manifold of an air conditioner compressor. How do I know if this will work? I didn't at first on my first project but after 30,000 miles it is still dry. The arms are pressed onto the shafts after drilling and tapping the shaft end of the arm and installing a socket head screw to clamp the arm to the shaft. Welding the groove in the arm would work also, but would require a good welder (machine and person) and I don't qualify. The screw method has worked well in the past and if the seal ever needs replacement, it would be easier in this case. Painted and ready for installation. If you remove the compression and rebound valves for inspection and cleaning, you need to refill the lower cylinders. Putting fluid in the reservior at the top will not get to the lower cylinders for a long time. After installing the rebound valve assembly (on the bottom), clamp the shock in a vise with the compression valve opening facing up. Add fluid slowly while moving the arm slowly until full and considerable resistance is felt. Install the compression valve assembly and then add fluid to the upper reservior. I use hydraulic jack oil with good results. This procedure will not help of the shock is not functioning normally when full of fluid or if there is any movement between the shaft and the body. Willie

If the solenoid clicks but does not engage the starter when starting normally, but will start when jumpered at the relay, you still have a low voltage condition...most probably in the relay. Replace or freshen up the relay as detailed previouly...internal resistance at the rivets will not show up on any tests. Willie

The deformation is from the stamping of the foot...it will be deformed no matter what cut off method. It was clamped very loosely so as not to damage the tube. Important points...Thanks Willie

I had this same confusion a while back and my conclusion is that the 54/55 large series is about and inch longer than the 54/55 small series. The 56 tranny is the same in all series and is about the same lenght as the 54/55 large series. Willie

Low tech tips for mid 50's Buicks Part I: front shocks As you probably already know front shocks for mid 50's Buicks are not available at the local parts store. Even if you get a knowledgeable parts man to try to match something in stock you will find that the lower mounting foot is too small on the modern replacement. Pairs of the shocks are available from suppliers like those CARS for $60 for plain shocks and $100 for gas shocks vs $51 for Monroe Sensa-Trac Part # 5801, a decent gas shock available locally or from RockAuto (this is the size that fits a 1976 Buick LeSabre). Earlier I had bought a set from CARS and after 30,000 miles they were leaking and the rubber bushing was crumbling. The shocks were made by Gabriel but were smaller than similar heavy duty shocks. One of my Buicks still had the original shocks and hardware which I saved when I replaced the shocks. Okay, here is how I adapted the above Monroe shock to fit a 1955 Buick Century using the original hardware. Here is an original shock with the original hardware. The rubber bushings and central steel bushing is not used. Here is the worn replacement from CARS on the left and the Monroe shock on the right showing the difference in the "foot". First low tech tool: use a hacksaw to cut the feet from the Monroe shock. Be sure your remaining steel bushing is the same length as original steel bushing. You just voided the warranty on the new shock. The resulting bushing will be deformed, so use a suitable tapered tool to make it round so the cross bolt will fit. Some drilling may be required. Assembled and ready for installation. Installed. If you have the original hardware you ready to go, otherwise you now have another excuse to go to the local junkyard. Coming soon, Part II: rear shocks Willie

John I am using the group 31 HEAVY-DUTY COMMERCIAL BATTERY listed in the chart that Bhigdog linked. The posts are centered at the ends, but my original battery cable fit fine. One battery that I bought was only available at the time with studs, so I had to buy some terminals (reuseable). That battery is one heavy *&%$#@*&^ and has no cute little handles. Willie