old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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Regarding tires:
I seem to have stumbled onto an area of contention. Opinions are in 2 camps. The 4 1/8" white-wallers, and the 3 1/2" white-wallers.
After looking at what's available, and talking to a few of you I've ordered the US Royal, 4-ply bias, 710X15, 3 1/2" white walls. I've also ordered tubes for these for a more authentic look.
Thanks for all the feedback!
I hope you meant 700X15 instead of 710X15 since the latter is a 2" smaller diameter tire and will not look good on that Roadmaster (that size is used 55 Specials, etc). The whitewall proportions will visually be about the same (one inch bigger whitewall on a 1" larger radius)
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The part that you need is group 4.175; pn 1168103...this is for 50-70 series (different pn for 40-60).
On my limited research the group number is listed 48-56; the part number showed up for 53 dynaflow...maybe others with an interchange manual can give additional help.
I talked to my tranny guy and he said if you send your old parts he might be able to match it up...I can supply contact info in private message or email.
Willie
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Jim
With that much fluid in the torque tube be sure there is none in the tubular drive shaft. I once found a quart in a shaft from a 55 that had a severe vibration. If probably gets there from the welds at the ends. I drill 1/8" holes at the lower rear 180* apart...one to drain any fluid and the other to introduce compressed air. I also drill a hole in the lower part of the torque tube, tap the hole and insert a screw as a plug...that way I can check for fluid in the torque tube. Your setup is different that my 55's so no specifics this time.
Willie
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Referring to exploded view in parts book. If I remove fluid(baster maybe), there should be 4 bolts at bottom of reservoir. Assuming gasket(AE) is available Bob's, CARS or such without buying whole kit.
Any ATF will do?
...make the gasket...
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Paul
If you don't have shop manual, watch for spacers in the gasket --- don't lose them. Also the bottom of the reservoir may be bent from someone pulling on the reservoir to tighten the belt. Use a cork/rubber gasket material or leather (my preference).
Willie
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Joe
I don't have a shop manual handy right now, but I think that the slotted adjusting screw threads into the lid. It can be removed of course, but that will mess up your adjustment that will require the pitman arm removed and/or the whole assembly on the bench. There may not even be a gasket...some of the covers have a machined fit and will leak a little. A good cleaning and a thin neat bead of black high temp silicone will stop a static (non pressure) leak. Now if there are internal problems like power steering fluid getting into the 90w gear oil, the the whole thing will need to be rebuilt.
Willie
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David
You probably just need to put some gas in your car and see how it does. The 322 nailheads in my 55's while not as high compression as your 364 did require premium leaded 'back in the day'. Later when unleaded became established, they ran well on mid-grade 89 octane. Now with E-10 they will run on the lowest 87 octane UNLESS the engine temperature is over 220* (a reflection of the increased cylinder head temperature contributing to detonation). 'Up to 10% ethanol' the pump says, but no one knows what the percentage is, but you can count on the higher octane fuels containing the highest percentage since ethanol is an efficient octane booster.
At the national meet in Ames it seems that the regular 87 octane is 'real gas' and is 10 cents a gallon higher than the higher octane fuel which has 10% ethanol. The 500 miles we drove around Iowa was the best mileage. Curiously the locals were observed all using the real stuff and that button on the pumps had the most wear. Seems they grow the corn, make the ethanol, maybe drink some, but don't use it in their cars. At least they have a choice.
Willie
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Terry
Why was it parked in the first place? No spark?
Anyhow change the points and condenser or at least file the points since the contacts have oxidized. If no joy jump 12v to the coil...should be a yellow wire and not the black wire to the distributor. If trying to start it crank it with the plugs out and (some oil in the cylinders) until you develop oil pressure; then replace the plugs which you should have cleaned while out. Report back.
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Ten years ago I had a couple of sway bars made by a place in Oregon (still looking for the name, phone, etc). I have one on my 55 Century, it is one inch and it greatly improved the handling. That car already had heavier spring installed and in this case the ride quality was unaffected. With bias ply tires, it went from severe understeer in corners to about neutral; with radials there is slight oversteer. Now only the slow ratio steering is the limiting factor in the handling department. One other improvement is that the front tires wear more evenly. (Buick5563 has the other sway bar on stock springs --- he can comment on that setup)
Willie
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Jim, the 55 hinge is completely separate from the spring, so you can't install the spring with the hinge off.
Other than that, Joe, listen to Bob. I used nails that I could place all the way through ( both sides of spring). To reinstall (I unofficially endorse this technique) spread the spring using a bumper jack and install nails, washers, etc.
If you don't feel comfortable stretching the spring with a jack just clamp one end in a vice and bend sideways to spread the coils enough to get a nail or washer inserted; then bend the other way, etc.
Willie
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Jim
The thrust pad pictured does not look bad. Also 55's always have much more oil in the area and will not have rusty fasteners.
Willie
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Nothing at all dopey or unimportant. I'd like know the answer too. I put the flat black ones on my 76 Delta (probably same wiper) and they will not park completely (too big)....so in addition to looking wrong they work wrong too.
Willie
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Willie, if you could share more on what you know about the fact that these letters are not series specific in 55 I'd like to add that info to the above list for clarification.
The part on which the numbers are stamped is called "converter reaction shaft and flange" group 4.226; two parts are listed:
1166140 used with input shaft bushing
1170321 used with input shaft needle bearing
There is no series designation...these parts could be installed in any 1955 dynaflow along with the appropriate input shaft. All of these codes could be useful in determining the year and series if nothing has been swapped around.
Willie
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1955 is electric.
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This picture shows the hole where the plug should be. The other holes are balance holes. Mike (buick5563) is correct...there are 3 ways to install, but only one is correct. If it is real important to access the drains, the transmission needs to be disconnected at the bell housing and flywheel and moved back about an inch.
Willie
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You may have the wrong links or the rebuilder indexed the arms wrong. With the weight of the car on the axle it should easily attach. Even if you compressed the springs to make it fit, something would soon break in service.
Willie
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The part that has the code numbers/letter is not series specific in 55. Two are listed for 55 depending on whether bushing or bearing was used on the input shaft. Also if ever rebuilt who knows what parts were mixed.
Willie
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Thank you Leif.
Can anyone identify the year of the Dynaflow I bought? It's the old rusty-looking one, and the one with the hole in the torque converter.
And, as you can see the torque converter and everything forward of the front pump are different.
Once I find out the year, I will look to see if I can salvage the planetary gears from this mystery transmission and transplant them into my 1955.
Thanks!
My 1955 parts book lists most of the planetary gears and associated parts as new for the year parts, so earlier parts probably will not work. If you can post a picture of what you need with part numbers, I will ask a local builder about interchange with other years and whether he has the parts.
The part that has the number and letter codes is again year specific, not series specific. Two are listed for 55 depending on whether bushing or bearing was used on the input shaft. Also if ever rebuilt who knows what parts were mixed.
Willie
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(This is for entertainment purposes only. I hope you have a good laugh)
Good laugh before I started crying...and screaming...and cussin'...
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As already noted, get an infrared thermometer. Gauges don't alway tell the truth.
Use no more than 50% coolant...more transfers heat less effectively.
If the pressure system is working you should be able to run 240-260* before boil over.
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Look on the front while turning. On a 55 they are accessed through holes in the flywheel/flexplate.
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Have the seats been redone or are they original?
carpet for sure is not original or correct, but the fit is better than the available correct Daytona. Seat pattern is correct, but does not seem to match the same vinyl or cloth on the apparently original door panels. Price is not bad...you would spend more to get on to this condition.
Willie
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The second picture ( with the box) is close to the original and will serve you well since 95% is above the inner structure anyway.
Willie
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Mike, really???? A politically correct wrench??? What's up with that?
Is Toby Keith wrong in in song "Made in America" ?? I always thought that they were Craftsman wrenches. Hmmm...."Politically correct" is a common affliction of inhabitants of 'The People's Republic of Austin (TX)'
...believe me I'm trying to wean him off the Kool-Aid.
Is Toby Keith wrong in in song "Made in America" ?? I always thought that they were Craftsman wrenches. Hmmm....
Anderson Pearson, My 1941-76C Buick Roadmaster
in Me and My Buick
Posted
Tire Catalog | Diamond Back Classic White Wall Tires - Vintage Tires - Redline & Redline Radial Tires for Antique and Classic Cars
Has a 700-15 radial and they will make the white wall any size you want. They may even do a 700-15 bias...just call and ask. This is one of those rare places where I have never heard them say: can't, don't, won't.
Willie