old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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Thoughts?
Drive it as is for a while and you will learn to make the steering work for you instead of fighting it with brute force. Remember that these cars were driven by people of all statures. Our first car was a 55 Special with manual steering. There were no shopping centers; if you went to town to shop you had to parallel park. My wife could park it better and faster than me since she did not like to walk.
Willie
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Pump up the tires to max inflation, new bias ply tires with tall tread will improve steering effort, any radial will make it worse. What you have is what I called 'armstrong' steering;).
Willie
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As payment I will require a ride in the finished product.
Willie
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Although there are lots of clip there are only 6-7 different ones. Let me know what model you have and I will scan a page that shows what you need. It also helps to have remnants of the original clips.
Willie
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Robert
Since this thread is now 8 pages long, refresh our memory on what carb you have on the car and why you think it is flooding on turns. It could be a lean condition aggravated by turning. (I admit I am too lazy to re-read 8 pages;)).
Willie
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[quote name=Beemon;1059864
I've seen some replicas online' date=' are they any worth picking up or are the just as good as home grown refurbs? I'm sure they have the vacuum pump Bhigdog was talking about, but are the colors close to accurate?
The 55 reproduction wheel cover centers are fine, and the 56 probably are also.
Willie
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The hose from the bottom of the radiator to the Def/heater core, rt.side below the dash is two sections on my car. The joint is towards the front of the engine on the inner fender. Is this correct? Or should the be just one length?
I see no references in the shop or parts books.
I don't understand your question, click on " 55 Buick Heater" in post #2 above, follow the link and the diagram shows the routing.
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hmmm.......
... one step at a time. ..
always a good choice:)
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http://forums.aaca.org/f115/55-buick-heater-292376.html
..add up the lengths...Note: the oil cooler hoses on 55 are 78" long instead of 74"
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... I was just looking at a six blade fan from Jegs. And a pancake electric fan that only draws 9 amps...........
That 6-blade should help alot. Using an electric fan in addition to a mechanical fan sometimes decreases efficiency. If that 9-amp fan is a 16" Proform, don't believe it...it actually draws 15 amps and did not cool as well as the stock fan.
Willie
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There is a visual difference, but it is unknown if there would be a difference in performance. When the water pumps are rebuilt the old impeller is used, so just get that original rebuilt. (Yeah, I know more $$$ and delay...)
Willie
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I never found a paint the matched the silver/chrome effect of the letters...closest thing was the shiny side of aluminum foil pressed in...again a 20 footer effect.
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Sorry, but I'm not looking to buy new hubcaps. If I were, I would have posted in the other forum. I was just asking for advice on paint colors if anyone had done this type of restoration before.
Flat silver-gray in the turbines, matched the center color to some rattle can...improved the appearance, but still just a good 20 footer.
Willie
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John
Reasons for squeaking: worn pulleys, probably not notched, probably not fabric wrapped like the original was.
Turn the radio up.
Willie
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The correct way to change the pitman shaft seal is to remove the unit from the car, disassemble, check bushings for wear and replace seal. I have added a second seal over the existing one with good results. This was after a unit leaked after a rebuild where everything was already clean...if doing this on one that has been in service for a long time, I suspect that lots of tedious cleaning is in order. Have fun.
Willie
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Missed it by 1/2". It is 3/8-16. Hey how many points do I lose for having a part from Home Depot?
Thanks,
Paul
Save and use it for the other end of the bracket ( at the exhaust manifold ). If it is plated, the finish will go away on the head from the heat , but the threads will release later. Also original exhaust manifold bolts are very brittle...I have broken as many installing as removing.
Willie
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The centers are probably reproduced like the 55's I bought in the past. Check with Bob's Automobilia or CARS. I had a set of 55 covers restored by Volunteer State Chevy 15 years ago. They appear to be slightly yellower than originals, but you have to place them together to see the difference. I don't know what they did other than the tool marks on the back side and the perfect finish on outside: they duplicated the flat silvery paint in the turbines and and the brushed effect in the center. This was one of the rare pleasant surprises dealing with vendors. Cost back then was $100 each. I do most of my own hands on work, but could not and would not do these.
Willie
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3/8"-16...about 1.5" long (if I have to pull one of mine to actually measure it will cost you extra)...flat washer, lock washer, bolt.
Willie
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Robert
Most pumps continue to run, but only develop their rated pressure. If your pump is rated at 5# or less it is not the problem. If rated at 7-9# move it to near the tank and you will have 5# at the carb. If it is higher than that you need a regulator or a different pump. Even when you install a mechanical pump you will need the electric as an assist for vapor lock situations.
Willie
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Leave me off...I'm trying to avoid all you "nattering nabobs of negativism":eek:
.Willie
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"I love it when a plan comes together"
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Willie
I have become a certified Curmudgeon , and I have no patience anymore. I am going to drive my Buicks to the store, and when the sun is out so will I be.
Joe, Where did this come from...do you read minds also?
Willie
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Thank you for your input! I have a Buick Roadmaster which as best I can tell has the small horizontal speedometer rather than the Special and Century which is a circular speedometer correct? Think I am getting somewhere here - I need to find the dash with the horizontal speedo from either a Roadmaster or a Super model correct??
Best!
JmL
If you are going to put it in a Super or Roadmaster...not a Special or Century. You have stated that you have a 55 Special and then a 55 RM...which is a the recipient of the dash?
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Your main problem that resulted in a tow was most likely vapor lock. Install a 7-9# pump as close to the tank as possible and that will give you 5-6# at the carb. If you eliminate the mechanical pump and use the electric full time consider a collision interrupt device. This combination has served me well most of the time, but I had some vapor lock even with the electric fuel pump...may have been the volatile fuel, 105* temps, low gas or the fact that my inline filter is before the electric pump (I crawled under to check if it was dirty and the gas was boiling --- I'm going to put it after the pump)
Your engine is not new and those are not unexpected readings.
http://forums.aaca.org/f162/distributor-1953-super-318216.html
see post #2 for my rant on Pertronix
Autolite 75 or 85 is the correct plug, but your 86 being one notch hotter should be OK.
Black on the plugs is not unexpected if the engine has been idling cold.
Get the ignition in top shape before messing with the carb.
The Rochester 4GC is junk! Our currently available ethanol laced fuel will dissolve the cement on the bowl plugs which can leak and catch fire. Also the ethanol fuel when it dries in a carb will leave a white powdery residue. That is what seems to clog the 4GC: rebuild it, install and it performs just fine; let it sit for a week and you will have poor idle, stumble, surging until you disassemble and clean again. The Carter WCFB seems to tolerate drying much better.
8mpg is not bad if city driving or romping on it a lot...15mpg on the road 65-70mph is likely.
Willie
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Some (possibly stupid) questions - 55 Buick Special 4DHT
in Buick - General
Posted
not necessarily in those days. Fill with ATF as noted or p/s fluid.
Willie