old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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Someone who has restored that exact car could probably put it back together if bone stock. However since modifications (click) have been started the car is only worth the sum of it's parts either in pieces or one pile.
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Where is the pump located? Electric pumps more efficiently push fuel rather than push, so it is best to mount close to the tank. I have a 7-9# pump mounted at the tank and the pressure at the carburetor is ~5#.
Willie
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At least you have internet access. The last hospital that I was incarcerated in had no public internet, only local tv stations, half of which were spanish/mexican. A description of my 'room mate' would be classified under "too much information". Most of your healing will be at home away from the stress of the hospital setting.
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Paul
The spindles are different since the left spindle nut is reverse thread. Can you supply pictures and a description of your 'alignment issue' so I can point the camera accordingly.
Willie
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Also should be available locally.
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John
My 55 book says to bridge BAT and GEN terminals before starting. That is what the book says, but in reality I have swapped generators and voltage regulators in my shop and on the road without any polarization and it usually worked fine. If it did not work the polarization procedure NEVER solved the problem. The place that rebuilt the generator already polarized it as part of the test procedure. Look elsewhere for the problem, like the voltage regulator; check voltage at the battery before or after starting.
Willie
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I would have figured the tapered threads to at least be flush with the bolt. As it is now the tapered thread is 1/8"-1/4" recessed in the bolt.Would have figured a little to stick out the nut face. Just doesn't look right. Pretty sure I put more than 30 ft/lbs. on em', though I didn't use a torque wrench.
That is pretty typical of replacement parts: 'close' but not exact. Just get it reasonably tight and use a thread locker since the original (or replacement) locknut will be ineffective. Check for looseness after driving, since apparently the taper is too short and might be the wrong shape and may loosen in service.
Willie
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It makes perfect sense to add an additional shut off valve to keep coolant from reaching the heater core. My only concern is hot water is reaching the core presently. The water /coolant at the core should not get hot with the valve in the off position. The valve would not be letting the hot water to enter the core. I would venture a guess the valve is not operating as designed.
If the valve is not operating as designed, then of course hot water can get by. The Ranco valve if leaking can be repaired with a $10 seal. If the bellows part of the regulation function is collapsed, then the valve cannot be shut off fully and that may be the problem.
Your were right in the first place to put a shutoff...:cool:
Willie
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John
There is a screw and lock-nut in the linkage on the back side of the drivers side head that is used to adjust the stator control apply time. I have one of my 55's adjusted so that the stator control is actuated at 1/2 throttle...the others at near full throttle. It is still a kind of wimpy passing gear. I have been known to use the technique outlined by Koala.
Willie
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Apparently 41 registrations have gotten lost in the mail. All for 54's.
Seriously, it is great to hear there will be 13 1954 Buicks there. Possibly the greatest assemblage of 54's since they were new and in a sale lot. Trying to think back as to how many were at Flint in 02. Anybody have that figure in front of them.
Lamar, you must be referring to Flint in 2003. At that meet there were 22 of those nice 55's. Click on the "22" to see them. Were the 54's there?
Willie
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My guess it's a pretty simple part and would probably be OK. My inate frugality and satisfaction derived from doing it myself would dictate getting out the punches and scissors. Then taking the $30 saved and go buy more beer.......................Bob
That's right! I keep trying to tell everyone that: frugal nature = more beer! Also I don't know if is my impatient nature or forgetful nature, but if I have something apart I want it back together right away.
Willie
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Robert
If the 'heater temperature control' is present and working that should shut off the coolant flow. If not, that is where you would put the manual shut-off.
Willie
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Stefan
Compare the new vacuum advance with the old one (spring pressure and travel of the arm). All vacuum advance units made in that era will fit, but they are application specific with heavier and weaker springs and travel of the arm. As an example there is no listing for a vacuum advance for my 76 Olds, but there was one for a 74 and since that was close I though it would work. Not! The spring was lighter and it had greater travel that resulted in part throttle detonation. (I ended up using an adjustable unit).
Willie
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Crank the car with the fuel line disconnected from the carburetor. It should shoot fuel at least halfway or more across the engine compartment. If t
I created a 'crispy critter' (the car not me) by doing that. A gauge to check pressure is a better idea.
Willie (survivor of engine fires, battery explosions, bumper jack collapses...)
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The czech is in the mail...
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Could the choke be way rich and having a controlled vacuum leak is leaning it out enough to run?
More likely: the vacuum advance plate moves in the distributor...could you have a bare points or condensor wire that is shorting when the vacuum advance moves?
...I'm betting on Aaron's suggestion...
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Ken, I have seen the gray stuff in mine and when I asked my rebuilder/mentor (60 years experience) he said "I don't know"... If you have some left, check with a magnet, place some on a hot metal surface like a manifold and if it sizzles water is present; if it smokes it is only oil.
Willie
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Just bought a '54 Century from a dry climate, no rust. Purchased it from the original owner's family, making me the 3rd owner. Odometer shows 22K miles. Based on the family's history of the car, that may be actual miles. My question is what would be tell-tale signs on the car that this is really 122K miles? I'm thinking maybe the condition of the front end like king pins, ball joints, etc. Opinions?
The rubber bushings on the sway bar links used to be a good indicator. If original looking rubber was present and still tight it was low miles...if sloppy is was higher miles. But with this much time even low mile original rubber may be trash. Look at the front shocks: most original ones wore out in 15,000 miles...it would take a dedicated cowboy to ride that thing for over 100,000 miles. Rear shock links may help; original spark plugs may be present...even original plug wires and distributor components.
Willie
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There are water passages in the timing cover. Every bolt that goes into a nailhead should have sealer on the threads, since most go into a water or oil cavity.
Willie
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The buick front end coming off! Car looks like its about to take off!
Neat car and a very neat and artistic shot with the rays and rainbow effect!
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Thanks, that clears that up. Now get a vacuum gauge and google how to time or tune an engine with a vacuum gauge. Using one on my 55 it likes 8* initial timing vs 5* that the factory recommends.
Willie
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I used the heaviest springs in a Mr. Gasket spring kit for GM top advance distributors...they worked great. My guess is that full centrifugal now comes in at 3000 RPM rather than 4000 RPM.
This doesn't sound right. Heavier springs usually inhibit advance until higher RPM is reached. One of my references shows for 1950 centrifugal advance starting at 250rpm and full centrifugal advance of 13* at 1500 rpm; vacuum advance max is 5.5*. Another example for 1955 is full centrifugal advance of 12* at 1750 rpm; vacuum max of 12-14*. Maybe others can check your specific model...
Willie
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Ken
Drain the torque converter, refill, add a couple of bottles of STP, then "take off like you know what you're doin'". You worry too much!
Willie
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DO NOT put hardened valve seats in a Nailhead!!!
You will ruin the heads because the water passage is too close - Either the machining will break through, or a crack will develop soon into use.
The Nailhead has low spring tension in the valves, the dia is small, and the heads have very good metal - There is no need for seats regardless of the dangers in trying to install them.
Maybe I have been lucky, there have been no issues with the 3 I have done. Exhaust valve inserts were installed not because I wanted to, but because I had to. The seats had severe recession from long hard use and repeated valve jobs over the years. You WILL have valve seat recession on unleaded gas even with the so called good metal in Buick heads. If I build another engine to charge across the country like I do now, I would not hesitate to install inserts...local easy driving, you can probably get away with it.
I did not put hardened seats in the nailhead in my 51 Ford F-1, because I will probably blow up the engine before any recession occurs:eek:
. The reason I removed the original flathead v-8 from the truck was because of exhaust valve seat recession (those engines originally had hardened seats --- but not hard enough!!)Willie
Texas Road Warriors: Charlotte, don't you cry
in Buick - General
Posted
Use the forum search feature to find some of our previous adventures. Although it is nearly 2 weeks before we will leaving and driving the 55 in the avatar, this should serve as fair warning to anybody in our way east of Texas. Also, participants should save up for gas and oil (we're driving Buicks after all) and stock up on sliced Barbeque Brisket and Fajitas.
Willie