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Posts posted by old-tank
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Sid
I bought 2 sets (10 tires) in 1992 and drove on one set to my first BCA national meet in Overland Park, KS. By the time I got home I was limping at 35 mph with huge bulges and all 4 tires on the ground (I had already put the spare on). I returned all to Sears for a refund (minus mounting, balance and aggravation). Maybe they would be useful for static display in a museum, but the best use would be as an accelerant to burn brush.
Willie
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The 57 heater appears to be similar to my 55. I found it is easier to remove the heater box (attaching bolts are inside) with the hoses attached. Of course the 55 has large holes in the fender (after removing some portholes) to work through. When you do finally get it out throw away those &^%$ tower top or any other original clamp and use worm modern worm clamps oriented so that you can access with extended tools from the bottom.
Willie
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Willie, there's about half a can of that shock oil left in there. Think it's still good?
My point was here is the answer to question "what to use in lever shocks?" Even though current bottles of jack oil do not list lever shocks on the label, that is what you use.
Willie
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Steve
I was sorta hoping you would say stainless, because mine are the chrome also. I bought chrome because they were cheaper and should look more like the original. Mine have ~3000 miles with no issues...so far.
Willie
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That will give you close to 332 cu in displacement.
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Steve
Do you have the stainless steel spokes or the chrome plated ones? I have no idea if that makes a difference, but it may add to out knowledge base.
Willie
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Steve
Even with the linkage out of adjustment you should be able to "find" Low somewhere between Reverse and Drive.
The pressure test will give us more clues. How long since the last rebuild on that transmission?
Willie
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Mud
It is my understanding that engines of that era could be bored 0.060 to 0.080 oversize. Of the nailheads I have heard that only the 425 might have issues past 0.040. Probably a question for your machine shop or Russel Martin.
Willie
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Mud
Thanks for the kind words... and as a token of my appreciation, I shamelessly linked the video on my web page.
If I had a spot welder like yours I would have put more in mine also. I put in the minimum to lessen the chances of blowing holes in the cover.
Willie
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So what piece on the car should I compare? The full door rubber or maybe the J rubber on the front inside of door or still yet, the glass door edging rubber? I would suppose the felt fuzz strips would most likely all look the same and build quality would be the same too?
If the 57 J-rubber is the same as 55 that is a piece that I had trouble with. First, the available products are not foam based like the original, rather just molded solid rubber. I bought a set, installed one side and all was fine; installed the other side and could not close the door! Tried a different vendor and that was thinner and fit.
Willie
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Doesn't the difference between 53-55 and 56 timing chain covers have to do with the front side, the mounting of the water pump? I'm looking to use a '56 water pump as it has more flow capacity than earlier models and have been thinking I will need to change the timing chain cover also. Am I correct on this?
Yes, there is difference in the front, and on 56 there are no outlets for the tranny cooler on the left side of the timing cover. For best cooling use the later nailhead cover and water pump. Just remember if you change/modify one thing you will create 3 new problems.
Willie
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Steele and Metro are the only ones I have used. Steele makes good products and they have even made new products for me. The 2 places that I give Metro the edge is door/trunk rubber and windshield rubber. The door/trunk products from Metro are a little smaller and softer; the windshield rubber fits and looks better.
My cars have a mixture of the 2 suppliers...I have sent items back and even bought duplicates to compare.
Willie
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As far as function there will be no difference. It might make a difference to some numbers matching anal-retentive.
For your timing cover seal use one for a Buick 455. You will need to chamfer the cover and use proper tools to install since there is a 0.020" interference fit.
Willie
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Also the power seats will go back a little more than the stock manual...that won't help if you also have short arms and legs.
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You usually don't have to unless the brake pedal is depressed while the switch is out.
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Rick
Looking at the attached pdf file, yours is like my 55's and you don't need any spline seal, springs, etc. The boot is only needed with the original outer torque ball retainer unless you want to install to make it look original (nobody can see it and it is a pain to install).
All you need is the typical torque ball seal kit like we started discussing unless after disassembly yours is different.
Willie
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Have you checked the stick. I'm surprised whoever built it would have drained it after the rebuild.
Good idea to check the stick, but most rebuilders return the transmission dry with only assembly lube on the parts. Only Mudbone fills and tests on the bench.
Will, you probably did little or no damage....yet.
Willie
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From where is it "burping" (sounds more like puking...)?
Willie
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Both.
Any more details on how much and when..?
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It could also be shorted field coils...
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Will
Don't run the engine anymore until you put fluid in the dynaflow!! There are parts that are running without lubrication.
Put in 3-4 quarts, start the engine and pour in the remaining specified amount, checking the level when get near the end.
There are a lot of good engine first run procedures out there, but most do not address a first run on the transmission at the same time. Buy an extra 6-pack for that extra helper whose only job is to service the transmission.
Willie
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Engine=635 lb; the dynaflow probably 300 lb range.
55 Century 66R Project
in Me and My Buick
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Mud
Is there any difference when you hang them both on the same wrist pin? Those look like the ones I ordered from Terrill Machine ( and sent back ).
Willie