NTX5467

Wagons are neat and a vanishing breed, at least as we knew them.<P>Same things would apply for the wagon as for the sedans/coupes they were based on.<P>Engine wise, the normal "chip" things from HyperTech, Superchips, etc. Chassis wise, I'd upgrade the brakes with high performance friction materials, probably put some KONI struts under there (if available), and upgrade the sway bar situation.<P>The exhaust system could well benefit with a good cat-back exhaust system too. Maybe even an aftermarket higher flow converter in the mix too, but all fully compatiable with the existing emissions control system.<P>Different tire/wheel combinations will need to clear the bottom of the spring mount on the front struts, plus the tie rod ends of the steering rack.<P>There might be a cold air intake for the engine with a K&N filter on the end, but you can probably fabricate one if none are available, still keeping all of the various air temp and air flow sensors in the mix too.<P>Hopefully, it'll have the genuine Buick V-6 but the Chevy 2.8/3.1L is a decent performer too. There were some 4.1L versions of the 3.8L available in fwd Century models in the later '80s or so. That might make a good bolt in upgrade, but would have a carburetor instead of fuel injection (not a good tradeoff or modification, the carb that is, in my opinion).<P>Unless you get inside the engine, don't expect any really substantial power gains, but these mods/upgrades can make the car more responsive and fuel efficient in the process of making it more fun to drive. Any major power gains might also compromise the longevity of the automatic transaxle too.<P>My recommendation would to keep things looking pretty much stock, as the car will be more valuable that way in the future, but all of the chassis upgrades and chips would be basically invisible in that respect so it's possible to have some upgrades without hurting the stock cosmetics of the situation.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Back to the question of what that special tool is, there might be a picture of it in the GM/Buick factory service manual for that particular vehicle, demonstrating how to perform the particular repair. Otherwise, you'd have to find a catalog from Kent-Moore/SPX that would have it illustrated in it, plus mention what types of repairs it was designed for on which vehicles. <P>You might check with your local GM/Buick service department manager to see of he has a reasonably current Kent-Moore/SPX catalog you can look at. If that tool's in there, the mystery will be solved, but if not then you might need to call or fax the numbers on the Kent-Moore web page mentioned above, seeking pricing/availability/applications.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Go to the <A HREF="http://www.spx.com" TARGET=_blank>www.spx.com</A> website. On the right hand side will be a large list of "business units" of SPX. There, you'll find the Kent-Moore name listed. In their pre-SPX days, Kent-Moore was the dedicated supplier who GM dealers obtained their special tools from. When clicking on that name, it takes you to the Kent-Moore site (which I believe the URL is <A HREF="http://www.spxkentmoore.com)." TARGET=_blank>www.spxkentmoore.com).</A> When that page comes up, it has the contact numbers for Kent-Moore.<P>There are also listings in that business unit list for OTC and Dealer Equipment. Dealer Equipment was the complimentary part of Kent-Moore that had things like systems testers, lifts, and other machines the dealer might need in the repair shop area (which could also be part of the GM Dealer Equipment program).<P>Also, there is a listing there for Miller Special Tools. Clicking on that name brings up a similar page to the Kent-Moore page. I suspect that Miller Special Tools is the later day varation of the previous Miller Falls Tools that was the special tool supplier for Chrysler Corporation, just as Kent-Moore was for GM.<P>Neither of those pages has links to an onlilne catalog, but they do have contact phone numbers.<P>In earlier times, the GM dealers had the option of buying the special tools "as desired/needed" or being part of an "automatic ship" program where any essential tools were automatically shipped to the dealerships (and invoiced to them too) as the GM program dictated. End result was that many dealerships ended up with things they'd probably never use, but had to buy as part of the program along with the tools they used frequently.<P>Also, if for example, a Chevy dealer wanted to be authorized to work on and sell a ZR-1 Corvette, they had to buy a set of special tools specific to that vehicle. Otherwise, it was tow truck time.<P>If you look through the Kent-Moore/SPX catalog, you'll see many tools that are generic or common tools, but with their name and part number on them.<P>Similar in some cases with the earlier Chrysler tools and diagnostic equipment. <P>From the Kent-Moore SPX catalogs I've seen, most of the tools are of more recent vintage and application rather than the earlier things. They are, or at least seem to me, somewhat pricey and are typically out of the realm of an individual or small repair shop. For example, the tool to remove the knockouts from ignition keys was about $50.00 and looked like it cost all of about $5.00 to make. Definitely not in the same price range as Cal-Van tools, for example.<P>Snap-On, Matco, and other tool companies that cater to the repair shop trade on a territorial sales basis, might have similar tools to the Kent-Moore tools, but you'll have to know what you're looking for to find them in their catalogs. To me, the key would be to know what tools you needed to get from Kent-Moore/SPX and what you could get from other, more localized sources, instead of just ordering things from Kent-Moore/SPX indiscriminately. Let your pocket book be your guide.<P>I'm not sure if Kent-Moore/SPX is set up to do business with individuals or not, but the contact information on the webpage could probably get an answer to that. If they take credit cards, it might not matter anyway.<P>Kent-Moore/SPX tools will be availabe only from them. Snap-On and others have individual territorial sales reps that call on the repair shops and dealership technicians in their respective "tool trucks" and can be found on a local basis (local contacts can be obtained from your local mechanics/technicians).<P>As I mentioned, the Clymer manuals have made various tool combinations of common tools to take the place of some of the factory tools in certain repair situations. Typically, though, having the factory spec tool makes some repairs go much better with a higher degree of quality that would take longer to get without them, provided the special tool isn't just a generic tool with their name stamped into it (i.e., gear puller).<P>Hope this information might clarify some things on this subject. <P>Like to see your cable tv shows, Brad! Some great information there too!<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Thanks for the additional information.<P>The stainless shim carb gasket is a necessary item. If it's like the similar Chevrolets, it seals the heat crossover are in the intake manifold. Otherwise, exhaust heat is put directly onto the bsae of the carb--not good. You might have to do some looking, and might fine one in the back of the FelPro gasket catalog, but it's a needed item.<P>As that is a Carter AFB 4bbl, it has a pair of metering rods that attach to a power piston. There is one metering rod and power piston on each side of the primary venturis. As you probably found out, the power piston/metering rod assenblies move up and down in their bores. The metering rod is tapered at the bottom end where it moves up and down in the primary jet. Also in each of those power piston bores, there should be a small diameter spring (similar to what you'd find in a ball point pen) that governs the phasing of the power piston/metering rod assembly. At high engine vacuum, the manifold vacuum will try to pull the power piston downward in the bore, moving the larger diameter of the metering rod into the main jet. This results in a leaner fuel mixture for the low demand operational situations (i.e., idle, cruise). As the engine vacuum decreases with higher load situations from part throttle to full throttle, the spring pressure pushed the power piston/metering rod higher in the bore and lets the smaller diameter areas of the metering rod control the flow of fuel through the main jet (richer mixture). If the spring is not under the power piston, the piston will not move and remain in the "full down" or "economy" metering area. <P>In the later 1970s, a friend took his Chevy pickup into the dealership with a carb problem. In rebuilding the carb (the 1/2 Q-Jet 2bbl they used that year), the technician left out the power piston spring (why was not determined). The pickup idled fine when hot and ran decent as long as the choke was on in the morning, but when hot, any demands placed on the motor were met with no response--period. He took it back to them and it always came back the same. Eventually, he got tired of that and brought it to a friend of mine that knew carbs. It also acted just like my dad's Chevy pickup (with a full Q-Jet 4bbl) when the power piston would stick in the down position. We put a screwdriver through the bowl vent to lay on the power piston. When we loaded the engine against the brake (in gear), the screw driver did not move. Glen pulled the top off the carb and there was no spring under the power piston. I'd sold him a selection of Q-Jet power piston springs prior to that so he chose a middle tension one--at this point, any of them probably would have worked.<P>When we put the spring under the power piston, we loaded the engine against the brake again (in gear) and it was now responsive as the mixture was being enriched under load. When the owner took it around the block, we heard the large off road tires squalling. He came back with a big smile on his face--all because a small spring was left out that first time at the dealership.<P>In your case, it sounds very similar--no enrichment for part throttle as the power pistons are not moving. I doubt they are stuck as they usually jiggle around in their bores.<P>If these springs are lost, find a speed shop that has calibration parts for the current Edlebrock 4-bbl carbs--whose lineage is directly traceable to the previous Carter AFB carbs of the 1960s. You might get an idea of what you're looking for on the Edlebrock website. Pick a spring that has a low vacuum range of about 6" Hg. That should get you in the ball park.<P>What's happening now is that idle is fine and is being metered correctly. Similar with low speed, but when you "step on it", as soon as the accelerator pump shot is used, it will fall on its face from lack of a rich enough mixture. When rpm finally builds enough to let the secondaries start working, the extra fuel from them (fuel metered via a fixed jet) will compensate for the lean condition on the primary side and it'll pickup and run then.<P>I went through similar things on my father's '69 Chevy 1/2 ton with a 350 and a Q-Jet. With the 3.73 rear axle, it didn't take much throttle to get it down the road, so he never throttled into it frequently enough to move the power valve and metering rods up and down, so they'd stick down periodically. I'd come in from college and dump a can of Gulf Tri-Ad fuel system cleaner in the tank and go driving it, making sure I varied the vacuum levels in the process (which could be fun some times with the 3.73 and PosiTrac). By the time I'd driven it an hour or so, the power piston would be freed up again and it ran like it was supposed to.<P>As this was a recurring situation and Gulf pulled Tri-Ad off the market (probably due to EPA issues), I later put a Holley 4360 Q-Jet replacement on it--end of problem as it was a fixed jet carb with no metering rods.<P>So, gently remove the screw on the plate over the power piston bore. Gently pull the power piston and metering rod out of the bore and check for a spring under it. If there's no spring or it has broken, find the speed shop and order up some power piston springs (in the values I mentioned above). I highly suspect that's where your problem is in this situation.<P>Also, get that stainless steel shim gasket on order too. There should be a "heat track" on the front side of the intake manifold (if it's like I think it is) that connects to the exhaust crossover passage in the middle of the intake manifold. It lets hot exhaust come up there to help minimize carburetor icing under certain cooler conditions. The carb base gasket (the composition gasket, FelPro part number 9803/80200 and GM 3829012 goes against the intake manifold and the stainless steel shim plate goes against the base of the carb--it sounds like it ought to have a leak, but it doesn't as Chevrolet used that same configuration up until about 1970 or so on their small block motors. As that particular 9803 gasket also fits '57+ Chevy 327-409 engines, the Chevy hobby vendors might be an alternative source, providing someone like NAPA can't get one. <P>I think that pretty much covers it. If you have any other related concerns, you can e-mail me direct.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Probably the best guide for such a color change would be the appropriate sales literature. If you could find a dealer's order guide for that year (to purchase or just look at), it might detail what was what color. Otherwise, you might just make everything green that's now saddle and go from there.<P>I like the green color they used back then, but liked the saddle too. What's the outside color of the car? There were usually "accepted" interior / exterior color combinations that would be listed in the sales literature too. <P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

There are a couple of dynamics here. It's fine in the idle/low speed mode and fine in the power mode, but not in the "main system" mode that covers normal driving speeds.<P>The additional key would be if the exhaust was visibly smoking during the normal driving mode. Also be aware the a weak igniton (as was Pete's case) can also act similar to a flooded carburetor situation.<P>Also, if a main air bleed for the main system is clogged, it'll shift that system to full rich (depending on the degree of clog), yet that extra richness is what is needed at higher rpm so it's not an issue there as the carb will have the "power system" (i.e., power valve open) in operation anyway.<P>As far as restricted air bleeds, these are things that a normal rebuild does not address. The air bleeds will be in the top of the carb air horn and open to the air coming in through the air cleaner. Which type of carb is on the engine?<P>Now, the other issue is that an ignition problem (as Pete had) can act the same as a carburetor situation. A weak spark will not fully ignite the mixture and make it act like it's too rich. Plus, the spark at idle is easier to ignite than most any other time, therefore less demands are made on the ignition system to produce a spark. <P>As the ignition system is the earlier one to deal with, it seems, taking the distributor out and giving it a really good inspection might be in order. Looking for bad wiring and connections, plus a worn distributor cam that can affect the interaction of the dwell spec with the point gap spec.<P>When the distributor is done, then systematically move to the carb, looking for clogged air bleeds, leaking bowl gaskets that don't seal well, and floats that don't float.<P>Hope this helps . . .<P>NTX5467

I concur that what you've seen on eBay probably will not be the same as the parts you desire.<P>The door hinges can be rebushed wth GM or aftermarket parts. The appropriate hinge pins and related bushings are listed in the GM Parts Catalog. You might find some hinges in the salvage yard, but they could well be in the same condition as the ones you have. If you do find some there, you can get them rebushed and pinned, painted to match, than then install them on your vehilce, then getting your existing ones rebushed and repinned for future use.<P>Door handles will usually be specific to a certain body series and year model range only. Issues like inner mounting/linkage and body contours come into play here, so that what might look to be the same really isn't. Generally, handles on the same body series and models will interchange, probably even between Electras and LeSabres, for example. In any event, make sure what your part looks like before you buy one to replace it (that the seller claims is the same as you have). In other words, be an informed shopper.<P>When I found a '68 Electra in the salvage yard and got some things for my '68 LeSabre (5467), I discovered that the LeSabre had provisions for additional hood popup springs, but had none, plus the windshield washer reservoir for the Electra was bigger, but had the mounting bolt holes spaced about 1 hole-width farther apart than the one on the LeSabre . . .<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

A friend of mine did a similar swap with a '78 Grand Prix and a Pontiac 455 back in the middle '80s. I believe the frame crossmember has the holes for the various corporate engine mountings already in it, but I'm not sure if the Pontiac 301 mountings cross with the other Pontiac motors, similar with the 260 Olds V-8 and the other Olds V-8s.<P>Later versions of that platform used the Turbo700 trans (which might require a particular frame crossmember for the rear support and very possibly a different length driveshaft--modifying your existing shaft or building a complete new one. It is possible to use a correctly-built and modified Turbo200 or Turbo200R4 trans, but the basic torque capacity of the Turbo700 is greater to start with, but it might take a few more horserpower to run than the Turbo200 variations require, yet the Turbo700 has a 3.06 low gear whereas the Turbo200 variations have more like a 2.79 low gear ratio.<P>Rear axle for most of those cars is the GM 7.50" ring gear diameter axle. Later versions in the Monte Carlo SS and similar used the 7.625" gear axle, with some of the Buicks using the GM 8.5" 10 bolt rear axle. All of these variations should bolt into the same place. <P>The last generation S-10 4-door Blazers used similar axles and had a bolt on rear disc brake system, plus using the 8.5" rear axle in the 4.3L 5-speed manual variations of that vehicle. I don't know about how close the S-10 rear axle is with respect to fitting the A/G-body platform, but the rear disc brake items should bolt on the A/G-body axles (as the S-10 axle housings are the same whether they have drum brakes or rear disc brakes).<P>The main things that my friend had problems with were cooling system related and fuel supply related. All of the A/G-body radiators should fit in the same place, I suspect finding the heaviest duty one might be the least expensive way out. AC-Delco now has some drop-in replacement radiators that are of the more efficient composite construction and are reasonably priced, plus being about half as heavy as the earlier copper radiators. You can go high buck with the totally aluminum Griffin radiators, but such a move might not be necessary. The later Regal turbo radiators are the priciest at the replacement level, from what I've seen.<P>As for fuel supply, you probably will need larger diameter fuel lines. There might be some of the later Monte Carlo SS items that might be what you need, but the size will need to remain constant all the way to and through the sending unit (which might need to be replaced also).<P>I don't recall what my friend did with respect to air cleaners and hood clearance. Some measurements might be in order here.<P>The frame crossmembers on those cars are configured for right hand side exhaust pipes. If you run duals, they will both need to run on the right hand side of the car before spreading out as they head to the rear, just as the dual converter Z-28s of the middle 1990s did. The will also make use of the existing underbody heat shielding in the process too. The frame crossmembers only have the hump to clear the exhaust pipes on the passenger side, unlike other vehicles that had duals which had a clearance hump on each side.<P>One side issue that's not usually mentioned is compliance with your local emissions regulations. Earlier model engines placed in later model chassis still have to have all of the emissions hardware of the later model chassis, typically. That can mean air pumps, EGR, hot air air cleaners, evap emissions, and other things. These issues can also impact when you sell the car too, depending on where the buyer might reside.<P>At this point in time, it's totally possible to build a high performance vehicle that will meet the emisisons regulations of the year model chassis it's in. A Holley feedback loop EFI system would be a start, for example, and then following it with a good undercar exhaust system of about 2.25-2.50" diameter pipes. With that much torque, having a wild cam would not be necessary so a nice mid-range cam would work to have good traffic driveability and fuel economy too.<P>Replacement cat converters of those pipe diameters are also available, just remember that for them to function correctly they need to be "sized" for about a 3.8L engine as each pipe will see only 1/2 of the total engine displement. Also, a with the pipes close together as they will be, doing a H-pipe type connection or the Dr. Gas X-pipe will be very convenient and easy to do.<P>Also, don't forget to upgrade the chassis components to handle the extra power and possible weight on the front end. Probably might want to consider polyurethane rear control bushings, for example, to minimize deflection, plus similar on the track bar. Keep all of the front and rear sway bars hooked up and functional too, as you'll obviously need to turn corners at higher speeds too. Similar with brake pad/lining upgrades. Going fast and looking cool is just half the equation.<P>Hope this gives you a general idea of what might be involved. It's all doable stuff, but not quite as easy as just putting in a good running small block Chevy (the most common V-8 in that platform and probably more prevalent in the real world salvage yard situation--which will generate all of the necessary hardware to do an easy swap), but doing something differently and doing it right does have its merits too.<P>I think this would be a neat project to do in that platform. I think I'd go with a Buick V-8 to keep it all Buick, add the Holley EFI system (with feedback hardware), the Turbo700, dual cat exhaust system, about a 3.42 rear axle ratio w/rear disc brakes, and make it both fun and ecologically friendly at the same time. Considering that I like to go around corners and stop too, I'd make sure the chassis was suitably upgraded too. Making it look like it came that way would be a definite plus!<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

There are a couple of "fix kits" out for that situation. I believe one was from AC-Delco that used a slightly oversize nut to cut new threads in the carb body. I believe that Tomco also has a similar item.<P>The other kit uses a new filter insert into the carb body that seals with a pair of large o-rings. I suspect that Tomco also makes something of that nature too. <P>Neither of these items will require disassembly of the carb to make them work.<P>I might recommend you find a well established auto supply or AC-Delco supplier that still knows what a Q-Jet is and what you're trying to do. I suspect the repair kits will be listed in the back of the carb catalog. Going to the mass market chain stores might be an exercise in futillity.<P>I believe that Tomco has a website (maybe <A HREF="http://www.tomco.com?)" TARGET=_blank>www.tomco.com?)</A> which might have some information on this repair.<P>The oversize nut would be the least conspicuous of the options, if that is a concern.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

From what I found, there are basically two part numbers that cover Buicks from 1970-'75.<P>PN 25505470 -- '72 All except 3437-3467 (i.e., GS models); '73-'74 455 engines except "A" cars (i.e., midsize cars); '74-'75 350 "X" cars (i.e., Apollo); '75 350-455 "A", "B", "C", "E" (i.e., Regals, LeSabres, Electra, Riviera)<P>PN 1232085 -- '70-'71 All V-8s, '72 3437-3467 (GS models); '73-'74 455 "A" cars (Century/Regal midsize cars).<P>As I mentioned previously, the parts book is a later '80s edition of the pre-'76 Buick parts book so there might be something left out that was in the earlier versions. It does appear that these two part numbers cover the bulk of applications in the particular time frame, though. The "1232085" number does appear to be square in the middle of the muscle car era and possibly is in some restoration catalog somewhere, it would suspect. The "25505470" item does still come up in the GM price database as a currently available part. There were no dimensions listed, just the same picture in the illustratons. <P>I'm not sure how all of this will interface with the observations of models and such mentioned earlier, but hope this listing helps clarify some things in the process.<P>It is also possible to configure some "will fit" breather hoses from other GM applications, but they will not look exactly like the correct Buick hose. I can think of a couple of applications but don't know about the particular hose sizes and such. I suspect that a factory look can be achieved, just that it will not be the correct factory look.<P>Hope this helps . . .<BR>NTX5467

It would be good if this part also fit a GS and the restoration parts people had it in their stock, but it's probably a little too new for that just yet. I'll get out the old paper parts for for '75 and prior Buicks Monday at work and see what it might list. It's a later version so that might diminish the possibility of a part number, but I'll see what I can find.<P>NTX5456

"DynaRide" is a Buick tradename for their suspension calibration in the earlier 1990s. It was a comprehensive "system", as they claimed, that began with the suspension and ended with the seat cushions, with the end result being a smooooother and more comfortable ride. The key item in the suspension was struts with "deflected disc" valving instead of the more common spring loaded popoff valves. That's what I recall the literature of the time mentioning.<P>On those same vehicles (DynaRide), if you ordered the suspension upgrade option, it wasn't DynaRide any more. That was the "Grand Touring Suspension" option (with the appropriate instrument panel nameplate). As I mentioned, the Grand Touring Suspension was slightly stiffer springs, larger sway bars, more performance oriented tires, particular aluminum wheels, and the same part number struts as the normal suspension.<P>The rear air struts need a minimum air pressure to keep their rubber diaphrams inflated sufficiently to not damage them during suspension movement. The 67psi sounds a little low compared to the 90-120psi that previous air shocks would tolerate for their max loads, but the aftermarket air shocks would allegedly allow up to 1000lbs to be added to the vehicle's rear suspension and still maintain correct ride height. <P>If the compressor's running in the loaded condition, it sounds like the system is still operating as designed and it could be a hole in the air line or the more possible issue of an air strut with a hole in the diaphram. <P>A good troubleshooting with the car on an overhead lift might be in order. Probably just a good check of the lines looking for leaks might be the best orientation without getting the air pressure gauge involved except as a last resort to check the pump.<P>Thanks for the additional information.<P>Seems like the similar rear air struts (from GM) for a DeVille are about $235.00 each plus labor. Any aftermarket (i.e., Monroe) struts for that car would need to have air fitting compatible with your factory fittings in order to maintain the automatic level control system. Or, the less expensive alternative would be to pull the fuse of the compressor, as many tend to do.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

The "T-" number is the identification number of a particular "special tool" for that operation. GM's special tools were made by Kent-Moore, but that company's now called SPX. That special tool can be ordered from them, if you desire. The "T-" number will not cross into anyone else's tool numbers or be listed as such in the other tool catalogs. Snap-On, Matco, and others might have similar tools as that particular SPX tool, but you have know how to contact those tool companies' local represtatives to get one, if they have one.<P>Clymer auto manuals typically will detail what more common tools to use to take the place of the particular factory special tools. I'm not sure if they will do that in your case.<P>"Allen wrenches"? They've been around for ages. They are used with a bolt head that has an internal hex (recessed) and a round outer "head" surface, instead of the more traditional outer hex surface and flat head. Then there are also "torx" head bolts/studs (probably what is on your vehicle, as they look similar to allen bolts/studs but are more star shaped with sharp points).<P>This could well be a situation where that repair might be best given to those who "have been there before" . . .<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

"Breather tube" as in from the air cleaner to the valve cover for the crankcase ventilation system? Or the "breather tube" for the hot air from the exhaust manifold heat stove to the bottom of one of the air cleaner snorkles?<P>In either case, these would have been dealer only items, especially if the hot air tube was formed metal tubing instead of the flexible tubing of later years.<P>If you can find a GM part number for the desired tube, you might try <A HREF="http://www.partsvoice.com" TARGET=_blank>www.partsvoice.com</A> or some of the restoration/NOS parts vendors.<P>NTX5467

I suspect that "hum" will be aided by the particular sounds of the Buick straight 8 engine mated to a DynaFlow--especially on "takeoff". Plus the exhaust note of the nailhead V-8s. Such neat sounds to those who appreciate such things.<P>Monica can make her own particular noises . . .<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Thanks for posting that article here, Roberta!<P>NTX5467

With all due respect, it sounds like that striker would not have bent or deformed the lock pillar if the hinge pin bushings had been replaced sooner. That piece of lock pillar is a separate stamping that is welded in just as any other body panel's welded in. It's not the easiest or cheapest body shop operation to do, but it's doable. Even on the newer models with the one piece complete door frame stampings, there are procedures to section them to replace parts of them without having to replace the entire stamping.<P>Those '80s cars were designed prior to the federal side impact safety tests. I can tell you from my own experience and observations, the newer cars that were designed for these current standards are much better than the prior ones--no doubt about that.<P>The door hinges on the '70s and earlier cars were of a more substantial and complex design than the current ones. I also suspect the cowl area and door shells were more substantial in design too. They were also designed to support more weight in the process. Usually if the bushings wore, you could tweak the hinge adjustment a little to compensate for it. But I have yet to find a '70s GM hardtop or convertible (the models that had quarter windows beside the rear seat) that did not have some deflection in the lock pillar area when the door was closed--another observation.<P>There are plusses and minuses for both the older and current/future construction strategies. Each has their merits and lesser accomplishments when compared to each other. Some of the newer designs certainly might look flimsier than the earlier ones, but the energy dissipation from the crash forces is a more evolved science than in previous times. Plusses and minuses there too with respect to repairability and similar concerns. <P>Just as there are some areas of the first generation F-body (Camaro/Firebird) that are better than the second generation and there are areas of the second, third, and later generations that are better than the first generations (especially body stiffness).<P>I wasn't aware that GM was using the foam fillings in any of their earlier vehicles. Not that they didn't for a structural reinforcement fix or a noise concern. I know that Chrysler issued a service bulletin on noise concerns (earlier production LH cars) that involved adding the foam in the door/cowl areas. The current Park Avenue has those things too.<P>Just some additional thoughts . . . .<P>NTX5467

When I made the post last night, I was thinking that your vehicles were the next and last generation of Rivieras, hence the reference to superchargers.<P>I did check the GM parts database and discovered that all of the rear struts for the 91-93 Rivs are the same. The fronts for the 90-91 Rivs are the same, but the 93 uses a right and left strut instead. The upper strut mounts on the front are the same part, but there must be some bracket or something attached to the struts that makes them side specific in the later years. There was only one part number for the front struts--no "RSS" option listed, but I didn't check the 94s.<P>In order to track that situation, it would be necessary to find some factory literature to confirm it. GM has ceased to support the electronic struts on the Allantes and issued a service bulletin of how to retrofit the non-electronic struts and keep the computer from knowing what was happening. If there was such an option on the Rivs, it would have probably received a similar fate, but I don't recall the bulletin applying to anything other than the Cadillac Allante/Eldorado vehicles. In any event, if your car had that, there would be some wires going directly into the strut itself plus a small lever going between a motion sensor at each wheel and the lower control arm.<P>There were standard suspensions and upgrade suspensions. The difference between them is the springs and sway bars as the struts are common items between them.<P>If done correctly, the firmer suspension calibration will be firm but not harsh. On rough roads the car will be more stable and feel like it is "above it all", so to speak, but without really floating or feeling mushy as the softer suspensions might be.<P>I also checked the price on the rear suspension height sensor -- $369.00 retail. A good troubleshooting session might be in order. I suspect the more specific GM factory service manual might be better than the Chilton in many situations. The Chilton, Clymer, and Motor manuals are good, but are more generalized in nature and could miss some year specific items in the process, especially in illustrations. <P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

I highly suspect that if the later model Riv rides firmer than the earlier one, it would be due to different suspension calibrations and different suspension codes (i.e., FE1 for the base suspension and FE2 or FE3 for the firmer one). You can find those codes on the Service Parts Identification Label that usually is on the top of the spare tire cover. <P>I do not recall any Rivieras having electronic struts and "road sensing" as the Cadillacs did or do. What Monroe calls "road sensing" in their shocks/struts is NOT the same thing as electronic struts as Cadillac and Corvette uses that are controlled by the body module computer from wheel sensor inputs or calibration mode switches. <P>By that point in time, if any suspension upgrades were done, it was not with the struts but with stiffer springs, larger sway bars, and performance oriented tires (with stiffer treads and sidewalls). When you add in the performance nature of the 16" tire package you have, "float" will be decreased as less movement is filtered out by the performance-oriented tires. I would suspect that if the later Riv is supercharged and the earlier one is not (as the smaller 15" tire size would tend to indicate), that could be the reason for the suspension being calibrated differently.<P>When the automatic leveling kicks in, it should only raise the vehicle to the original ride height, not higher. There is a height sensor in the rear suspension to control that issue. In any event, in it's "curb ride height" with no one in the car, the rocker panel should be basically level, but many newer vehicles are configured such that the rear is slightly higher than the front when unloaded. I seem to remember those Rivs being a little higher in the rear when empty.<P>I seem to remember that the earlier version of those Rivieras could be had with a "base" car (i.e., base 3800 V-6 of about 200 horsepower, normal 15" wheels and tires, softer springs and sway bars) or with the optional supercharged 3800 and appropriate suspension upgrades (all with automatic leveling). In the later years, it seems the supercharged 3800 became standard and would probably have also included the suspension upgrades as standard too. They all sat higher in the back such that the rocker panel tilted upward toward the rear end of the car.<P>As far as I know, all of the pieces of the automatic leveling suspension are going to be dealer only items. The rear struts can be obtained from aftermarket sources, though, just as shock absorbers would, but will need to have the correct fittings for the factory air lines on them. If the automatic leveling is not desired, you can unplug the compressor for the system. But, it sounds like the system is operating as it should and just needs a check of the height sensor at the back.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<P>NTX5467

For what it's worth, the stated spec on Chevrolet V-8s for lifter adjustment is something like 2 turns preload after zero lash. This is supposed to basically center the lifter piston in its available travel in the lifter body.<P>Most of the hot rodders only put about 1/4 turn preload on them for more rpm as at higher rpm, the lifters can pump up (i.e., the lifter's internal piston will be pushed higher in its bore with higher oil pressure) and not allow the valve to seat at those higher rpms, hence the reason for less preload. This is an old hot rod trick from way back for the Chevy V-8s to get the engines to rev higher.<P>From my own experiences, I like 1/2 turn preload rather than 1/4 turn preload so you don't have to go back and do it again later. The whole idea is to get the slack (i.e., "lash") out of the valve train so it's quiet and stays that way.<P>As you bought an aftermarket cam and lifter set, I would suspect there should be some recommended adjustment setting in the instructions. Using a stock adjustment for an aftermarket high performance hydraulic lifter might not be optimum as their lifters might have a different size oil bleed hole or other features to keep them from pumping up at high rpm. <P>In one respect, as long as there is enough preload to keep the hydraulic lifter valve train at "zero lash" at all times and operational temperatures, that's all that is really needed, but some preload will be necessary to keep the piston from constantly being against the snap ring that keeps it inside the lifter body. In the absence of any recommendations from the cam/lifter manufacturer/vendor, you might experiment some.<P>If you adjust the lifters with the engine running, you can try some of the "stoppers" that might be put on the ends of the rocker arms to decrease the amount of oil splashing around. Plus some cardboard to hopefully keep some of the runoff from getting on the exhaust manifolds and inner fenders. Otherwise, be sure to have some of your favorite engine degreased on hand. Setting the preload with the engine running is the best way to do that adjustment, just don't force the preload on the lifter too fast.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Most of those problems on the Cierra should have been easy fixes. <P>The headliner issue is a normal one as the foam backing deteriorates with age. Certainly not specific to GM at all. Only repair is to either pull it all down or get it replaced. The trim shop people advised to NOT try to reglue it as it only made cleaning the backing board more difficult when it was prepped for new fabric.<P>The door hinges probably just needed new hinge pin bushings to put them back right, maybe some new pins too--more labor intensive than parts price intensive, for sure. Probably a new striker bolt too as the lock probably had rubbed a flat spot on the top of it. <P>Many people unconsciously press down on a door when they open it, even if you walk up to a door in a building with a cross bar, it seems to be instinct to push downward before you push forward. Same with car doors, it seems as people push down with their elbows and forearms before they push outward when they get out of the car. Something I observed even myself to do before I conditioned myself not to. That downward push puts additional wear forces on the bronze hinge pin bushings over a period of time. In earlier times with the older design latches, the doors popped outward when you pulled the handle to open them, but the newer design latches don't seem to do that. We stock the bushings and pins for late model GM pickups by the handfull as them wearing out is a "normal wear item" on those vehicles.<P>I suspect the steering column was what I call "The Thunderbird Syndrome" where the wheel can be moved around in the column. Four long screws in the lower part of the column (below the tilt wheel pivot) get loose and the pot metal casting they go through can break as the tilt wheel is let "pop" up unrestrained as you pull the tilt lever when you get out of the car. The people who advertise to fix GM steering columns or a dealer with the correct part can probably have it fixed in an hour or so.<P>All of those things are "typical" issues with age that are sometimes more troublesome to tolerate than fix. Not a lot of money involved either. These are things I've observed in the dealership parts area during the past 25+ years so they aren't "big deals" to me to see these things happen, but others might not feel that way.<P>The windshield header rust is certainly unusual, though. Must have been moisture getting trapped up there for some reason. I don't think they fully dipped those bodies in the rust inhibitor tank back then.<P>I concur that the mechanicals usually caused no problems at all. I suspect these were better cars than many people ever gave them credit for being in that respect.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

If you've got a vehicle with a windshield that uses a gasket, then you probably need to check with vendors for that particular type of vehicle for help finding one. Steele probably has some "roll goods" that might be acceptable, but you probably have a gasket that has molded corners and such too, making such roll goods (sold by the foot) unacceptable.<P>Steele is a main manufacturer for many things, even things that other people sell under their own name, but I suspect you'll need to find vendors which specialize in that year and model of vehicle to get what you need.<P>It could be that a glass company that is used to doing older vehicles might not arbitrarily require new gaskets with all installations. It is a good orientation, though, as the previous gasket has taken a set to the glass in it (especially with respect to glass thickness). Plus, the rubber might not flex and tolerate the movement of the glass being taken out and reinstalled.<P>Hope this helps,<BR>NTX5467

If that car is what I think it is, it would be the precursor to the later T-Type models in basic suspension calibrations. There was nothing special in the engine department, but the body color trim and other "sporty" cosmetics made it work. The chassis upgrades were nice too. <P>There were some Olds Cierra GTs too, as mentioned, but one of those Centurys in solid black looked really good.<P>Collectibility? I'd consider that a tossup right now, but as more of the younger generation that grew up with fwd cars comes to appreciate these special, lower production Buicks, it could be a "keeper" for sure. Just like the later fwd T-Type LeSabre coupes. I suspect there were more of the Centurys than Cierra GTs, from what I remember.<P>Sounds like a neat car that deserves to be treated with care and respect--even if it spins the "wrong set of wheels". Afterall, it's a Buick too.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Those cars seem to hold up well. There were also some Olds Toronado convertibles in the mix too.<P>I believe the conversions were done by what was then American Sunroof Corporation. <P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

For the type of "high mounted stop light" you describe, you might check with some of the street rod parts vendors. I believe I've seen just what you need in their magazine adds.<P>The factory GM Accessory HMSL kits used a relay to run them instead of tapping directly into the stop light circuit. It had it's own particular harness and everything. This kept it isolated from the main brake light operation too.<P>I bet you'll find what you need with the street rod parts vendors, though.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467