NTX5467

The NHRA specs are NOT GM production specs, but what NHRA will accept for a particular engine and nothing more. The NHRA specs do have some basis in the OEM production specs, but they don't have to follow them in all cases (at NHRA's discretion). IHRA and other sanctioning bodies have their own respective rules that might not always coincide with NHRA. Starting in April, 1971 (or a little earlier, depending on production schedules and car line), all GM engines were lowered to a specified 8.5 to 1 compression ratio and had induction hardened valve seats (except Buick delayed using the induction hardened valve seats until a few years later, as noted in the V-8 Engine seminar at the national meet) to deal with unleaded fuel of 91 Research Octane rating (87 posted "pump octane"). There were a few exceptions to the compression ratio rule back then, notably some Corvette motors that had a stated 9.0 to 1. That was the end of "high compression" as we previously knew it back then. All of the passenger car V-8s in '77 were still at or below the 8.5 to 1 compression ratio deal. Seems like some Pontiacs were at 8.0 to 1. The "official manufacturer's" numbers will be in the respective vehicle service manuals, if there is any doubt. In many cases, there was a fudge factor in the compression ratio and how it was made (i.e., cylinder head combustion chamber volume) such that engines usually were a little lower in actual mechanical compression ratio. Many heads usually held a had a few more cc of volume than the minimum spec (which is what's quoted in the manufacturer's specs) and even could have had some variation from cylinder to cylinder. Of course, if the chambers were fully machined in shape instead of being cast to shape, there would be less variation. If you're going to build a motor, then you can first get the main saddles "line honed" to make sure that area is correct, then get the motor "decked" off of the verified crank centerline. Usually, the higher car line motors were decked at the factory, but this action during rebuilding makes sure that everything is "square" in geometry and architecture. Then, you can measure the deck to see how far it is from the stated manufacturer's spec. Then, chuck the heads onto a flat lathe and get them surfaced too, just enough to true the surface and make sure the angle between the intake manifold and the head's deck surface is where it needs to be. Then, after you get the valve job done, you can put the valves into the heads and check the chambers for their actual cc volume. Also, with the pistons installed, you can then check for the distance the piston is below (typically) the deck surface at TDC. Now that you know what the pistons' deck height is, the combustion chamber volume, and the compressed thickness of the head gasket (when installed), you can plug all of these numbers into the Compression Ratio Formula and see where things land. Also, if the piston crown has valve relief cut-outs or sumps, those volumes need to be added into the cylinder volume amount. When done, you'll know what the actual compression ratio is for your particular motor. Before you finish assembly, you might cut the heads a little more to decrease the chamber volume or possibly find a shim steel head gasket instead of a composition head gasket (steel shim gaskets are usually .020" whereas the composition gaskets are usually in the .040" range). A few little tricks that might help you get toward the middle 9.0 range for a performance street motor to run on available super unleaded fuel. Just some thoughts . . . NTX5467

The Amsoil version (similar in action and orientation to WD-40, but synthetic) penetrating spray lube has the added bonus of not attracting dust, making it ideal in dusty climates for lubricating anything that will be exposed (i.e., lock cylinders, hinges, etc.). When I had a good source on it, I used it and it kind of smelled like eau de bug spray, but worked well. Glad it worked for you! Enjoy! NTX5467

I suspect there are already some yards that tend to specialize in Buicks. I don't know that the BCA itself would need to be involved (for many reasons) in the ownership or operation or promotion of these yards, but I suspect that Roberta could put up some links to known and acknowledged reputable businesses of this sort that already have a specialization in Buicks as such. The networking idea is a good one, but in some cases it's not really feasible for an operator to send a truck several hundred miles to pickup a donated vehicle for any reason, unless it's got a treasure trove of parts or is a rare vehicle that's worth saving for parts or rebuilding. This would be a judgment call by the yard owner/operator. It is a very good idea, though, and we all know that dreams can become reality in some cases if we make it happen. Bad thing is that great dreams don't always make a good business case. About 20 years or so ago, I heard of a salvage operator in Kansas that specialized in one particular corporation of muscle car and other related vehicles. Seems that he also had Ford and GM stuff, some very rare and low production high performance vehicles too. As far as I know, when he passed on several years ago, his wife and his chief employee kept things up and running as they had been before. There are already some printed directories out that list salvage yards by vehicle speciality and such. Perhaps we just need to tap into and expand those listings for BCA members? When all of the fears of crushing vehicles for emission credits started looming on the horizon down here in TX, the Texas Vehicle Club Council put together a program called the "Crusher Response Team" that would monitor the vehicles that came into the Accelerated Vehicle Retirement program due to their not passing emissions tests and such. To date, we've not had to put that program into force, but it still exists ready for use. The end result was that member clubs would be notified by email when any vehicles came into the program and where they were so that they might be saved or salvaged in the alotted time frame. The Texas Vehicle Club Council's legislative laison also was instrumental in getting one sentence added to the existing initial legislation to allow vehicles that came into the program (emissions credits scrappage program) to be dismantled/disassembled for parts instead of being arbitrarily crushed. Engines would be sold as disassembled assemblies only (which could be rebuilt) and exhaust system parts and catalytic converters could not be resold, though. That one additional sentence was very important! I believe it would be beneficial for everyone (including the insurance companies) if there was a network of Buick specialized salvage yards or larger salvage yard operations that had large concentrations of Buicks for us to use as a restoration resource. Of course, there would need to be plenty of later model Buicks to help the cash flow situation and support the number of older Buicks in inventory. Enjoy! NTX5467

In many cases, GM was known to use a 3/8" wide V-belt in production and then do a number change "in service" to a .440" wide belt. When that change was made, I found it necessary to increase the length on the orig thinner belt by 1 inch as the wider belt would ride higher in the sheave than the more narrow belt. There are also 1/2" wide V-belts, but I don't recall any applications for the vehicle you have. On some of the Cadillacs of that general vintage that had the 100 amp alternator, they used a smaller diameter pulley to keep the alternator speed up a little. In this application, they specified a notched belt so it would better conform to the smaller pulley--a non-notched belt would squeel as it would not successfully make the turn on the smaller diameter pulley. This might be an alternative too. Hopefully you are using a quality brand over there. You might need to convert the 3/8" and .440" widths to metric, but I suspect you can find something acceptably close to what we had over here. Enjoy! NTX5467

I fully concur with your comments, Mike and Nancy! As I termed the event in another post yesterday, "Magnificently Awesome". I'm sure those trees and blades of grass enjoyed seeing and protecting and being the supporting cast in helping showcase the magnificant display of Buick vehicles on the Cultural Center grounds. They'll be talking about those smooth and quiet running straight 8s and other classy Buicks for quite a while! To everyone involved, we can surely say "Thanks for the memories!" just as we can say to Bob Hope's spirit and memory. If I heard correctly this morning, Mr. Hope was born a few days after May 19, 1903. I'm not sure if some higher power allowed things to happen this way, but with Bob Hope being an integral and memorable Buick pitchman in the '60s, I am grateful that he did live long enough for the Centennial Celebration of Buick in Flint to happen before his passing. Thanks for the memories, all of you! Willis Bell 20811

There should be no issue with changing from synthetic oil after using it for a while. The low friction and related anti-wear elements would be diluted as the residual synthetic oil is replaced with regular or blended synthetic oil that replaced the full synthetic oil that had been used. What you might notice is that the engine might seem to run just a hair less silky or quietly, but not worse than if you'd been using mineral oil all along. Nothing worse than if you changed brands of synthetic oil or from one brand to another in the mineral based oil, I suspect. I know there used to be horror stories of people changing the brand of oil in an engine and it cratering soon thereafter. Something about the gunk inside the engine reacting and clogging up the oil pump intake screen? When I've bought a used car, I devised a method to make sure it was clean inside. I'd change the oil and then, when it was 1 qt down, I'd add a can of Stewart-Warner Alemite CD2 detergent additive to the oil. When it got 1 qt down again, I'd add another can. By that time, what I could see through the oil cap hole would be very clean of residual accumulations. Then, I'd change the oil to whatever I was going to use (usually Castrol GTX) and let it go from there. That way, whatever gunk that needed to be removed would be gradually liquified by the detergent additive and removed when I changed the oil. It also allowed a progressively higher dose of detergent after the first had started the cleaning process. Another thing I started doing back then was, when the oil was on its last little bit of being drained out of the hot engine, to pour a quart of oil into the engine to kind of help flush out any residual oil that might be in a low spot in the pan. Sure, it basically wastes a quart of oil in the process, but it also makes sure that there's more clean oil in the engine after the change. To me, the extra cost and time is worth it--but I wasn't using the more expensive full synthetic oil either--and it was a 5 quart oil change too instead of a 6 or 7 (or greater) quart oil change. Similarly, don't forget to fully or partially prefil the oil filter (if you can) or filter cannister with fresh oil prior to installation of the new oil filter. Helps get things moving a little sooner upon initial startup after the oil & filter change too. Enjoy! NTX5467

Now, I know how Willie's "flying" home and was posting things in here before those of us that DID fly home--LOL. Especially since we saw them driving out after the presentations Saturday night! Just for curiousity, what times did The Bug turn and did it run straight down the track (as it was mentioned that they didn't know if it would go straight as it was so used to racing on a circular track)? What about the Blackhawk?? Thanks to ALL who posted pictures of the meet in here!! Might there also be a tape that could be made from the presentation Saturday night and sold/distributed so that others can share the excitement of the meet too? What about copies of the tape/dvd that was being shown in the Buick tent Saturday night? Enjoy! NTX5467

From my experience with my '77 Camaro 305, some engine combinations just seem to have belts that will alwasy be a little noisier than others, even with the same part number pulleys. Most every 305 Camaro/Firebird from my year had some belt noises that could not be made to go away, but the same pulleys on a 350 were always quiet. BUT your car is not one with cronically noisey pulleys. Of course, the "clean" thing is necessary and scuffing the pulley sheaves might help (but don't get too coarse as it could affect belt life). Typically, when ever you put on a new belt, it will need to be run a little while before the final tightening will need to be done. In other words, that new belt will get a little more pliable after it runs for about 45 minutes or so. In some cases and some brands, the extra stretch in the belt after installation can be significant enough for it to really squeel. After it squeels for a while, it can then glaze the belt and it'll make noise that you can't adjust out. WD40 can soften the rubber in an older belt to temporarily make it quieten down, but it and other treatments will only be temporary and usually work best with older and more aged belts rather than new ones. Some treatments can cause more trouble than they're worth too. So, after you put on a high quality new belt, tighten it to what seems right (with no more than about 3/8" play between the longest length between two pulleys), and then run it a day or so through several hot/cold run cycles. After that's happened, then if you recheck the play in the belt (with the engine stopped, of course!!!) or look for flopping while it's running at idle, you'll see a slightly loose drive belt in all probability. Then, readjust the tension on the belt and it should stay where you adjust it for the rest of its life. If you put too much tension on the belt, it can also affect the life of the bearings in the particular units the belt is driving too, so don't try to make them piano strings or similar. After that, if there is still some squeeling on particular belts, you might consider seeing why that particular accessory unit might be putting too much load on the belt. Hope this helps . . . NTX5467

Have you had a mechanic shop run a load check on the entire charging system? That will tell you what the alternator's doing in the car instead on an auto supply test bench. When you do that, you can check things right then and there to see where potential problem areas might be (i.e., poor or degraded connections). Could be that even a new battery can have a flaky cell in it for some reason. If the new battery was on there with the old alternator, that might have caused something inside to flake out too. If the circuit through the battery has too much resistance for whatever reason, it can limit the alternator's effective output and also work the alternator hard enough for it to overheat and "die" too. Those older Delco alternators are easy to rebuild. Many times, all it takes is a new regulator and diode trio to make them "new" again. Also, as those alternators cool from the front to the back, make sure the rear air intake holes in the back casting are not obstructed in any way--especially with a heater hose close by. The regulator mounts back there and is the first thing to be cooled. If the regulator overheats or "cooks", then there goes the output! Even the highest quality alternator will have a short life if it can't keep cool--happened to me with must a mis-routed heat hose and to others where the cooling air intake duct on particular applications is missing. Just some thoughts . . . NTX5467

I concur, Keith! The number and variety of Buicks AND the fact that every generation of Buick AND current and FUTURE Buick owners was there was great. To call it "Magnificently Awesome" would, to me, be an understatement! So many beautiful Buicks--so little time (and film)!!! Thanks again to EVERYONE that had a hand in making that whole production come off as well as it did!!! Enjoy! NTX5467

I'm not sure how the particular cam bearings are for your vehicle, but I'll speak from generalities on other engines. I suspect that if you check the hole sizes in the block and/or the journal diameter on the cam itself, you'll find they are not all the same size, but they might be on this engine (again, speaking from generalities), as you go front to back in the block. There is also a "knocking" tool that you use to remove and install the bearings with--this makes it more of an "engine removed" operation, but I suppose you could so it "in chassis" with all of the grille, radiator, a/c condensor (if equipped), and any other item on the body removed--plus any engine item on the front of the motor so you can get to the timing chain area. Then there's the valve train items of lifters, push rods, rocker arm items, valve covers & gaskets, and other related items that would need to be removed too. First, the existing cam bearings are knocked out. Then, the new ones are correctly positioned on the tool (looking for the correct orientation of the oil holes and making sure they will be in the block correctly when installed--as spec'd in the service manual). Key thing is to also make sure they are installed "square" in the cam bearing saddles! Another reason to have the engine on an engine stand or secured to a work bench as leaning over the core support/fenders can be tough. So, you can remove the bearings from the front to back, but installation is from the back to the front. If there's a core plug in the back of the block, make sure it's in good shape too and don't push the cam too far back as it might damage this plug. As for the honing operation, that might not be necessary. Key thing is to make sure the cam just slides into the new bearings and turns easily. Some machine shop guys will get out their pocket knife and do some minor selective trimming on the offending bearing if one's just a hair tight, but honing would also be something that would probably be done with a completely newly vated block so that whatever grit might result from the honing operations could be washed out of the block. I suspect that, typically, if the bearings are correctly installed in their respective saddles that maybe just a little polishing action with some red ScotchBrite might be all that was needed, but it can create "grit" too so the whittling with a pocket knife might be the best way in some cases. When installing the cam, you can put some prelube on the journals and then carefuly feed the cam through each of the new bearings until it's all the way in. Putting a long bolt(s) in the timing chain bolt holes will make it much easier to handle during the somewhat tedious installation process. When it's all the way in, then see if it spins freely and easily. If not, then you can pull it back out again, wipe the grease off of the bearings, and look for shiney places on the new bearings that would indicate "high spots". They you can go from there as to what you do to remedy them or smooth them out. I know there are many things in the way of engine service that used to be done without removing the engine from the car, but now that we have more ready available capabilities in modern times, pulling the engine is probably the easiest way to do something of this nature. Of course, with the engine out, you can also fully check other things like the rod and main bearings too. You'll also have to remove the complete set of pushrods, lifters, etc. to do the cam bearing deal, but I don't think the heads would have to be removed so completely taking the motor all the way apart should not be necessary. Joe might have some additional comments and I welcome them. Enjoy! NTX5467

The original fan clutches were no "thermal", typically, but kicked out with engine rpm or air flow through the radiator at road speed. In other words, they were always engaged unless air flow overrode them. The thermal fan clutches came in about '63 or so and have the thermostatic spring on the front (instead of the flat front on the non-thermal ones). A better situation as you didn't spin the fan with the engine unless it was needed to cool the engine. They'd typically make some fan noise on startup, but that was it. It also had varying degrees of "lockup" depending on the temp coming through the radiator. The aftermarket has various terms for the clutches they sell, as the Summitt Racing catalog notes indicate. In any event, always get the OEM spec clutch that's at least as good as the original -- AND -- one with a complete plate with dedicated mounting holes for the mounting (instead of the slotted plate on the universal models). The solid plate with dedicated holes will hopefully indicate that the particular clutch as some OEM applications somewhere plus be a better interface for the mounting bolts/nuts. If you can get a hold of an AC-Delco Illustrated Air Conditioning Catalog, there's a listing of GM fan clutches in there by GM number and other specs (as to shaft length and mounting information onto the water pump/pulley mounts). Key thing would be the shaft length and center hole diameter and mounting bolt circle. The accompanying Air Conditioning Parts Catalog would have application information as does the AC-Delco website's online catalog. With the fan clutch dimension listings, you can compare what you have to what you can still get that is OEM spec, providing that what you have is still working ok. I've had one customer that will always buy an OEM fan clutch for his pickup after having issues with even the HD clutch from major aftermarket suppliers not working well or cratering on him. So, I might suggest that everyone be an "informed shopper". Also, many of the vendors (i.e., Summitt and others) will typically only have the more universal fan clutches and not specific ones for a particular vehicle application. Many times, things will work ok but sometimes they will not. Sometimes, even the AC-Delco units for older vehicles are more universal too, but at least you know they should be OEM quality items. Just some thoughts . . . NTX5467

Some good replies, Matt. As for oil leaking past gaskets, that can happen even with mineral oils of different brands. One friend complained that he didn't like Castrol GTX as it leaked, but he loved the Pennzoil back then as it didn't--in the same engine. My machine shop associate (and old drag racer who, like others of his age demographics and drag racers, gravitates toward Valvoline) concurred with the leakage issue as he'd experienced it himself on his Chevy pickup. Key thing is that if one brand leaks and the other one(of the same weight rating) doesn't, you know which one is most likely to get into all of the nooks and crannies of the engine to lubricate, cool, and keep it clean in there. As for the cork gaskets, there are different qualities and cork particle sizes between some brands. Once a cork gasket starts wicking oil through it, you can't stop it so you'll need to replace it to stop the leak. One reason I coat the cork gaskets I use with silicone sealer is to prevent that wicking from starting in the first place (and easier clean up when it's time for replacement, should that be needed). Synthetic lubes can eat, er "degrade", some seals. For ages, Chevrolet pickups with the 9.50" rear axle (usually 3/4 tons) used no rear cover gasket, with silicone being the sealer of choice (which was "fashionable" for when that axle probably saw its first uses). When GM made the move to synthetic rear axle lube in those vehicles a few years ago, low and behold, they came out with a new rear cover AND a gasket to go with it. The reason? The new synthetic rear axle lube would degrade the silicone sealer that had previously been used (by GM's own admission). Such action didn't take place overnight, though, from what I suspect, but over a period of time. I know people that use Mobil 1 in everything they have. I'm fully aware that it's factory fill with many modern vehicles and has been since the old Shelby Dodge turbos of the '80s. I haven't looked to see if there's any difference in the rings and such in the current Corvettes and other LS1 style motors that don't come with it from the factory--or if the original run-in oil in those vehicles is mineral based and then changed after the 45 minutes or so of run time those new motors get at the engine plant. The recommendation for mineral oil during break-in times dates back to when Amsoil was one of the few synthetic motor oils around. In one respect, if the machining of a vintage engine is done correctly, that engine should last longer than it would have when new regardless of which modern oil is used. The other significant item would be if the seals and such are of more modern materials or are accurate to what the engine came with "back when", I suspect and that would be the ultimate determination of how synthetic oil (and certain brands thereof) would be tolerated in that operational environment. The point of whether the crankcase ventilation system is open or closed can be a factor too. End result, it's your money to spend and your judgment call on the type of oil you use after the break-in period. If I was going to venture off into synthetic oil in a '50s motor, I'd first do the break-in period with probably a 30W oil (due to its greater viscosity stability) and then switch to a 10W30 or so at the first oil change. It would probably work ok to use the multiweight from the start, but I might be a little old fashioned. After the second 4000 miles or so, then you'd have an idea of how the oil consumption was going and then make a determination of the projected costs to step up to a blended synthetic or a full synthetic. I don't see any reason why a blended synthetic would cause any problems with the seals and such--at least right now. At the least, the lessened amount of synthetic would probably extend the time it would take to degrade the seals--if it happens at all. The price difference between the mineral base oil and the blended synthetic is not nearly as large as it is from mineral base oil to full synthetic. For many, I suspect it could be the better value of the three, depending upon what useage the vehicle sees and such. Just some additional thoughts . . NTX5467

Roberta -- Thanks for all of your help on these questions! It's certainly appreciated! NTX5467

Thanks! We've also got our first swap meet registrant too! Enjoy! NTX5467

Those earlier Delco radios need to have their chassis' grounded in order to work right, but that is normally taken care of in the mountings attachments. With no ground or a poor ground, the sound can be distorted too. Perhaps that's another function of the back brace other than to just steady the radio in the structure? You'll probably notice that the rear speakers are also "self-grounding" with only one wire going to them. To use a regular speaker back there, just be sure to get a small battery to check the phasing of the replacement speaker (i.e., which terminal you put the + battery lead to get the voice coil to move downard or use the wider one instead of the more narrow one) and then hook the single wire to that terminal and build a wire to go from the other terminal to a speaker mounting bolt to complete the circuit. Those single wire factory rear speakers as somewhat common on GM cars and possibly were a cost cutting result that might have saved $1.00 or so per vehicle in production cost. On the power seat and such, all that needs to happen is to reverse the current flow through the motor, even if it grounds at the point of attachment. Enjoy! NTX5467

I suspect the transmission situation could be a linkage adjustment or similar. The turn signal not cancelling might be the little flat wound springs in the turn signal switch--depending on which style of turn signal swith might be on the car. It's the little springs that make the clicking sound as you turn the wheel and also hit the other part of the steering column to cancel them. Might be the adjustment of the Bowden cable if it's that style too, rather than the integral design where everything is at the top of the column. Probably minor situations that a good service manual might help with. There are many systems on the vehicle where only one wire makes it work (as with a dome light switch, a/c compressor clutch, or blower motor), for example, as the switch grounds and completes the circuit to make the system function, but in a reversible situation (as a window or seat motor or electric lock actuator) there probably should be two wires going to the item with the ground for the circuit located somewhere else. Might even ground through a circuit breaker too. Just some thoughts . . . NTX5467

One reason we will have the meet in JUNE in 2004 is to get the meet done before the currently hot July time frame. As with the prior meet we did in Plano in 1996, we will have air conditioned shuttles running a circuit between the hotels and the Plano Centre (where the a/c seemed to be set on "freeze" last time!). The trees on the show field and swap meet areas have grown too. In short, there's plenty of a/c to go around at the Plano Centre area if you need to take a break as the outside areas are only a short stroll from the building. Many of the people who came to our 1996 event in July commened that the heat was not that big of a consideration as they went from an air conditioned hotel to an air conditioned shuttle which dropped them off only a few feet from the air conditioned Plano Centre. Plano itself might not be that "exciting" (other than a restaurant for every orientation), but Downtown/West End and the Fair Park areas have some really neat and significant attractions (hence our tours to these areas and others). Please check the registration form in The Bugle for more information on those activities. Whether or not you tell your relatives you're coming down for the 2004 BCA National Meet in Plano is your business, but please do consider coming down anyway! We feel we did a great meet last time and are working to make the 2004 meet even better. See y'all down here in 2004! NTX5467

I concur that such a fine vehicle will probably not bring that much money--even as good as it might be. The low production seating option can be a plus, but not enough to raise the value that much. Of course, look what $12K will buy you these days too, but those newer cars will be much better daily drivers than a low production, low mileage car of any kind--plus if the newer cars get damaged, you can find parts to fix them. Best place for that Park Avenue is in someone's garage for occasional use--period. In that mode, it'd make a fine addition to a Buick collection and someone with enough disposable income to support that activity might well pay the asking price if they really wanted it. Enjoy! NTX5467

Roberta, didn't you previously suggest the hour prior to the general membership meeting at that location for the get-together? Anyway, please keep us posted on what y'all decide. Thanks, NTX5467

From what Bill said in his commentary in a recent Bugle, 2005 is still open for bids. We're hosting the 2004 down here in Dallas/Plano. I'd still like to see a 2005 meet basically west of I-35 and/or the Rocky Mountains, with all due respects to our eastern USA people. I suspect that much of what happens after 2004 might be determined as to whether or not the National Meet Coordinator deals are put in place. I'll stop there . . . Enjoy! NTX5467

It's surprising how much difference a muffler can make in exhaust sound dynamics. Several years ago, one friend had a '70 Dart Swinger 340 that he was getting ready for a muscle car shootout and another friend had a '70 Road Runner 440 6bbl that was being prepped for the same race. The Dart guy got 3 chamber FlowMasters and the Road Runner had Walker DynoMaxes on it. Both cars had loud exhaust notes, especially at idle. The Dart was so loud in the lower frequencies at idle it'd probably make a mobile boombox owner jealous! Similar with the Road Runner. As the pipes on both cars were the same size, they swapped mufflers and both cars got acceptably quiet. Such a difference! When FlowMasters came out, they were one of the few mufflers that were really lower in restriction and somewhat affordable, but they had a unique sound to them. Now, the landscape has changed and there are lots of other choices that make less noise and are just as powerful. In reality, that 5 or so extra horsepower they might make can carry a higher price tag in the liveability area. Another friend related that he got a length of flexible exhaust tubing (from NAPA) and used them at the end of the collectors on his stroker 440 street car Dodge Coronet. I recently saw a similar piece that's on a late model GM car. It's not cheap from GM, though, but he noted that it took ALL of the exhaust resonance out of his exhaust, making the car much more pleasant to drive. Exhaust resonances and "tinkle" are usually related to both pipe sizing and muffler choice, but can also have side issues of pipe/muffler material too and whether or not the intake manifold has a heat crossover passage in it (or it's blocked off). Of course, if the pipe is touching an underbody part or has insufficient hanger insulation from the floorpan, noise transmission can result. If you remember your high school physics, every piece of metal (and other substances) have a natural frequency at which they'll resonate at. There are also similar, but of lesser magnitude, resonances at multiples or fractions of the main frequency too (why you can drive through wheel imbalance speeds, usually). Think of an exhaust system as a slide trombone of sorts, but with one pipe length. If you change the total length of the piece of pipe just a little it will make it resonate at a different frequency (and a different note from the horn). Possibly, if you make one section of the pipe stiffer or put a slight bend in it, it could change the resonant frequency some also. Lots of little tricks that can be used from the front to the back of the system. On the front end of the air path through the engine, similar resonances are at play too. In earlier times, it could be the snorkle shape and inlet configuration and included runner shapes/lengths of the intake manifold (ram tuning). Now, it's progressed to all of the funny shapes pieces of plastic between the air filter box and the throttle body on modern cars (even the triangle shaped piece on the LT1 V-8s in Roadmasters/Caprices) not to mention the "beer barrell" shaped intake manifolds. There are good sounds, bad sounds, and too loud sounds in the automotive world. Everyone has their own preferences in that area, but it's a proven fact that a good sounding exhaust system is not the loudest sounding one either, for daily or continued use on the streets. In current times, there's really no reason not to have a reasonably quiet exhaust system that doesn't significantly hinder high rpm power output either. Just some thoughts . . . NTX5467

Compared to the external electric pumps, the integral washer pump that GM used just never seemed to me to be as good as it should have been. Just my feelings on that matter. Kind of like you punched the washer button and things started making noise and MAYBE some water would come out of the washer nozzles in some sort of "programmed" manner. But that's the way they were . . . In concept, it's a neat and compact design, but I always liked to punch the button and have water spray immediately and in the amounts I wanted. I suspect that the pump itself (and the rubber diaphram in the pump cylinder) are the main culprits. I can also heartily recommend the Rain-X treatment. There's also a Rain-X glass cleaner that will really put a slick shine on the glass and with repeated applications can fill in some minor sand pitting. Then put the regular Rain-X on top of that and it really works great. Roberta, I understand that if you take the vac wiper motor apart and put some fresh wheel bearing grease down in there for the leather to work/seal against, it can make a significant difference in how those wipers work. Enjoy! NTX5467

From what I understand, most of the techs have bought a separate set of gauges for the R134a as the pressures are higher than with R12. I do know that a website (www.aircondition.com) has lots of information and links to vendors in it. Perhaps there'd be something there for you. I'm not sure if you could use two sets of adapter fittings to make your existing gauge fittings interface with the new R134a service fittings. Might be more expeditious to just buy some new gauges, all things considered. I was looking in there last week and found some updates on the charge comparison for retrofits. Last year, when I was looking in their forums on that subject, the recommendation was to use 75-80% of R134a as you'd use of R12, but use the pressures as the real measure of having enough charge. This year, that percentage was more like starting with 60% and adding enough to get comparable cooling (but still keeping the pressures in the higher R134a specs). Remember too that there are also some adjustments on the suction-throttling valves. Most of the replacements have an adjustment "wheel" on them instead of having to have a special tool to adjust them (as the production ones did). But, in the orifice tube systems, the GM orifices for the R134a have the same orifice diameter as the R12 ones do. Check out that website and I suspect you'll find a lot of information on that whole deal. Enjoy! NTX5467

Thanks for that information, Joe! Enjoy! NTX5467